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ylyad
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Posts: 476 Location: Zentralschweiz
Expire: 2013-12-05
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:44 am Post subject: |
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ylyad wrote:
As David, I do advise to take portrait shots for a pano, this allows higher images. Sure, taking a second row would be better but that starts to be a lot of images... _________________
Camera: Fuji X-E2, Fuji X100T
MF: Canon nFD 50/1.4, Canon nFD 100/2.8, Tokina RMC 135/2.8
Tamron SP 24-48/3.5-3.8
http://www.flickr.com/derdide/
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:11 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
ylyad wrote: |
As David, I do advise to take portrait shots for a pano, this allows higher images. Sure, taking a second row would be better but that starts to be a lot of images... |
Some of the guys here are using expensive digital cameras for panos, but say:- for a SLR film camera and VG 50mm lens £10-£25, roll of film £1, supermarket dev and scan to CD £3....so for a total of not more than £30 it's possible to start to produce simple VG panos on a computer screen....if credit cards or HP payments were banned, old film cameras and film might get more popular _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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tobbsman
Joined: 25 Jul 2008 Posts: 2578 Location: Austria
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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tobbsman wrote:
hey, looks good ! you're improving very fast.
Cheers
Tobias _________________ Camera Pentax K10D, K20D, Super A
SMC K28 3.5, SMC K24 2.8, SMC K28/2, SMC K50/1.4,SMC A50/1.7, SMC M28/3.5, SMC A 50/1.7, SMC K135 2.5, SMC A50 1.2
SMC A35-105 3.5, SMC A70-210 4, SMC A20 2.8, SMC M28 2.8,K28/3.5 SMC A28 2.8, SMC A100 2.8 Macro, CZJ Flektogon 20 2.8 (MC), 35 2.4 (MC),S.M.C Takumar 85mm 1.8, Helios 44M-4, A.Schacht Travenar 90/2.8, C.Zeiss J. Sonnar 180/2.8
Check out my: 2012 New "Advanced Guide to Panorama Stiching" !
Check out my "Beginner's Guide to Panorama Stiching !
Visit my Asahi and Zeiss MF lens samples database ! |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
tobbsman wrote: |
hey, looks good ! you're improving very fast.
Cheers
Tobias |
Coming from you is a big compliment .......My next attempt is a four shot pano of cottages, distant scenery and a large tree and it's this shot that I could never get everything in...and the shots are in the camera now:-
erm wonder how Photoshop will handle this stitch. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
The sun just wouldn't fully come out to give more sparkle to these panos, erm can't think of any more excuses why these panos shouldn't be perfect
So a 5 shot pano with 35mm camera held vertically, 35mm Canon lens erm except for the crooked roof, Photoshop seems to have done a good job:-
A 3 shot pano with sigma 24mm lens and again a crooked roof, and again it seems Photoshop has done a good job:-
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
So a 5 shot pano with 35mm camera held vertically, 35mm Canon lens erm except for the crooked roof, Photoshop seems to have done a good job:-
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The roof shape is just an artifact of the output projection. A swing-lens panoramic film camera such as a Horizont, Widelux, Noblex, Kodak Panoram, etc. would show the same characteristics.
Here's an example with your first set of pictures.
Your original stitch (in what appears to be a cylindrical projection):
The original two images mapped into a rectilinear projection:
(note the difference in how straight lines are depicted, particularly the stone wall at the bottom)
... and the rectilinear pano cropped to a rectangle:
This sort of perspective is what we would associate with a fixed-lens panoramic camera, such as a Hasselblad Xpan, Fuji 617, Linhof Technorama, etc. It is effectively the same as a single shot taken on a normal camera with a fixed ultra-wide-angle (non-fisheye) lens, and cropped.
tobbsman is right that your lens shows some vignetting, and there are exposure differences between the two shots. As long as the two source images are matched, however, both of these can be corrected in the stitching. (In the interest of time, and since I'm on a really slow computer at the moment, I skipped this step on the above panoramas...) _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 8:00 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Thanks for you input Scheimpflug (and of course others) I have now quite a few panos to play with and don't think I will try to equal the advance members panos with a film camera in that I will keep them simple. I just wished I did them years ago as many times could have used the techniques e.g inside a room. Anyway I hope this thread has encourage some people here or others using the google search engine, that panos are very important if you can't step back and can't get it all in.
My first pano was about 20 years ago matching and sticking prints together on a stiff board and was quite pleased with my self, but strange in doing these panos, I never felt the sense of achievement as all I did was swing the camera around taking shots...and the machines and programs did the rest. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:45 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well back from Ibiza and this is my attempt with a nine film shot pano, supermarket scanned.
Hexanon 50mm f1.7 OOD (3 years) Reala, supermarket dev and scan:-
3 shot pano Canon 28mm:-
I've done a few more, but they are just record shots and nothing exciting. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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David wrote:
The bottom one turned out very nicely. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:28 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
David wrote: |
The bottom one turned out very nicely. |
Thanks, I thought so too....to get a good shot of the harbour it's going to take three layers of about 8 or 9 shots=27shots, and could be interesting joining them all up , other members have done it, but the 2 or 3 shot panos are going to be the norm for me.
I'm just amazed how Photoshop decides what to use and how it stitches e.g. this two shot pano..... if there is a mistake in this pano i can't see it.
1st shot Canon 28mm fdn Reala
2nd shot Canon 28mm fdn Reala
Pano
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:37 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
One more
Ibiza Bossa beach
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:14 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Crowds are always difficult. Just ask the poor girl by the rubbish bin with half of a leg and no right arm! Moving subjects (people, vehicles, clouds, plants in the wind, etc) are one of the key reasons why people still pay huge sums for single-shot panoramic film cameras. I shot a huge sweeping pano at a baseball stadium once (digital, stitched), and absolutely loved the shot... but it looks terrible when printed because there are so many stitching artifacts in the crowds. Some errors are OK, but when people are missing their heads, or part of a face, it can actually be quite disturbing!
But yes, you are doing very well with these!
Excalibur wrote: |
Thanks, I thought so too....to get a good shot of the harbour it's going to take three layers of about 8 or 9 shots=27shots, and could be interesting joining them all up , other members have done it, but the 2 or 3 shot panos are going to be the norm for me. |
Once you start shooing a whole roll of 35mm "per shot", your film and processing costs would be so high that you might as well just shoot medium or large format and be done with it!
But don't worry about joining them. I've shot panos with hundreds of frames. As long as you have a reasonable computer with lots of memory & disk space, and/or a lot of time, the modern stitching engines can piece them all together quite well. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:45 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
***Just ask the poor girl by the rubbish bin with half of a leg and no right arm!***
..and a lesson to us all complaining about something small like a boil on our nose, when a girl can enjoy herself and hop around with just half a body
But I thought you were going to criticise the sky in a few as this is difficult also.
***Once you start shooing a whole roll of 35mm "per shot", your film and processing costs would be so high that you might as well just shoot medium or large format and be done with it! Very Happy***
Well using the supermarket dev and scan is still cheap for showing shots on the computer, but home scanning a roll of film (24shots) to do a pano, for better quality, for a decent sized print would be so boring. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:07 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Haha, yes, I suppose on second thought she is doing quite well given her "ailments"!
I try not to be critical of other people's work, unless they request it. What you're doing is difficult for sure, even with the best of setups. I hope I'm coming across as constructive - please let me know if this is not the case!
Do you know if Photoshop's stitcher does white-balance correction between the shots, and if it calculates or corrects for vignetting? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote: |
Do you know if Photoshop's stitcher does white-balance correction between the shots, and if it calculates or corrects for vignetting? |
No idea, but I've noticed it straightens leaning buildings. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:18 am Post subject: |
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David wrote:
Photoshop does NOT correct vignetting, nor does it correct white balance, as far as I know. I can answer that question definitively later when I stitch a photo where I accidentally had the WB on tungsten while outside. The sky is very pale and the grass is very warm. Oops.
Anyway, on vignetting, make sure you leave ample frame overlap, especially with vignetty lenses, because the ramification is shadow "slactites" in the sky and dark regions on the ground. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well I'm now up to nine image panos, but it's back to the drawing board with the house in the two image pano as the house is in a straight line and not curved
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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