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Pentax P30t & P50 - Nikon F Body Mount Conversion
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:56 pm    Post subject: Pentax P30t & P50 - Nikon F Body Mount Conversion Reply with quote

//Edit: This converted mount has now migrated from my P30t to my P50. Cool I have updated the thread title to reflect the change, and both cameras are covered here in this thread.

Time for another project. Cool

Even though the advance lever is still broken, I have decided to put my P30t body "under the knife" for another operation. You see, almost my entire lens collection is Nikon F mount, but fully manual Nikon film bodies are quite a bit beyond my "hobby budget". Neutral I've been wanting to get back into film, and a while back this poor broken down Pentax P30t fell into my lap... so... what the heck. Let's see what we can do. Mr. Green


Here's the P30t with the Pentax mount. There are six electrical contacts and no AF drive shaft, so I believe this is the "K-A" mount.



With the mount plate removed, we have a thin ring with the mount leaf springs that simply lifts out, and we can turn the camera over to let the other parts fall out: 6 contacts and their springs, and the lens release button and its spring.


There is then the aperture sensing ring, which turns a few degrees and then lifts straight out, with two long springs to unhook from the body.


With these parts removed, we are left looking at a bare camera body with no remaining K-mount parts. The stop-down lever is still in place, but it sits far enough back that it shouldn't be a problem. It is just stamped steel, so if it does cause problems, I can just flatten it down without needing to disassemble the camera any further.



Now enter the mount donor- a Komura Telemore95 teleconverter, which had long ago been turned into a budget extension tube. Wink



With the mount plate for the teleconverter placed over the Pentax body, I can see that the holes are unfortunately not quite spaced ideally. The Pentax had 5 holes, three of which formed the corners of a square, which I was hoping to pick up on. But the Pentax mount is a bit larger in diameter, so the Pentax holes would be right at the edge of the Nikon flange. Neutral They are very close, probably just 1mm difference in radius.


This pretty much gives me two options. The first option would be to mount the flange in the Nikon orientation, and either epoxy the flange in place, or drill four new holes in the Pentax body and find some longer screws. The Pentax body had raised flats for the Pentax mount points, and has slight recessions where these new screws would go, so it isn't quite ideal. It would however allow me to use lenses with rectangular masks without issues, as the mount orientation would be correct.



The second option would be to rotate the mount 45 degrees, and then oval out three of the holes (left, bottom, and right) to pick up the original Pentax mount points. With the way the spacing is, these screw holes would essentially all turn into slots, going all the way to the edge of the Nikon mount. I would probably just grab a small file and work inward from the outer edge, as opposed to working outward from the holes. This mount option would be more reversible, and potentially stronger, but I would lose a bit of flexibility since everything would be 45-degrees rotated.



I haven't yet decided what to do, so I'm open to suggestions. Wink


I should also add that the Nikon mount plate is almost identical in thickness to the Pentax mount plate, so this new camera will end up as a Nikon with a 45.5mm flange-focal distance, 1mm short of the 46.5 that is standard for Nikons. Rather than fuss with a 1mm shim, I think I will just leave it this way. The lenses will focus past infinity and I will lose some close-focus ability, but that is preferable to having it the other way around. Wink
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Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)


Last edited by Scheimpflug on Sun Aug 29, 2010 6:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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peterqd



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Pentax P30t - Nikon F Body Mount Conversion Reply with quote

Scheimpflug wrote:
I'm open to suggestions. Wink

How thick is the Pentax mount ring? If it's 1mm or less I'm wondering if you could drill and tap it for the 4 Nikon screws and mount the Nikon ring on the front of it. This would allow you to use the original 5 screws into the body and keep the lens upright. Maybe help the focussing too if you're lucky. You might need to remove the Pentax bayonet tongues.
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good idea! Unfortunately, the Pentax ring is about 1.5mm, so unless I could remove 0.5mm from it that would push the mount out too far. Sad I checked, and I would have to remove both the bayonet tongues as well as enlarge the opening to accommodate the Nikon mount.

If only I had a machine shop... Wink
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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peterqd



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, that's a shame. You could easily make a ring out of 1mm sheet brass or stainless steel using an adjustable circle cutter and a drill. Cut the outer diameter first then the inner.

One other idea - I've heard that Nikon lenses will fit the Pentax mount directly. Sometimes the lens can be a loose(ish) fit and obviously it won't lock but a lot of people find it works OK. Have you tried it?
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
One other idea - I've heard that Nikon lenses will fit the Pentax mount directly. Sometimes the lens can be a loose(ish) fit and obviously it won't lock but a lot of people find it works OK. Have you tried it?


I had heard that too, so I looked into it.

The tolerances are interesting... the Pentax "throat" is about 1mm larger in diameter than the Nikon, and the Pentax mount is just fractionally thicker. The slots for the bayonet tabs are slightly different as well, and in theory are incompatible (the Nikon lens shouldn't fit into the Pentax mount), but lenses can in fact be inserted if pushed all the way to one side due to the difference in the throat diameter.

So the end result is this:
* Some lenses can't mount (can't rotate) because the distance from the flange to the bayonet tabs is too tight. This could be fixed easily by a quick sanding of the rear of the Pentax mount.
* Once a lens is mounted, very very little of the bayonet tabs are actually holding the lens in place. Shocked I can't measure the overlap accurately, but it is less than 1/2mm. Shocked
* There really isn't anything to keep the lens centered, and pushing the lens to one side is enough to disengage the bayonet tab on the opposite side. Shocked


So basically, it "works", but it would be extremely risky. Wink I wouldn't trust the camera body to hang from a mount like this, and I certainly wouldn't risk walking around with a lens I cared about mounted this way.


Thanks for the suggestion though! I do appreciate the help! Cool
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, it's finished! Surprised Surprised Surprised


I decided that I didn't want to rely on epoxy, and that I wasn't going to be happy with a rotated mount. Neutral This would seem to have eliminated all of my options, and I still don't have a drill press, lathe, or milling machine, so I had to get creative. Wink


Here's a photo of the two mounts side-by-side, to better show the differences in size, mounting, and design. They are both oriented correctly in this picture.



Next, here is my tool of choice for the modification. A thin bastard file. Very Happy Yes, this is the only tool you need! Shocked



First, I marked the Pentax hole locations on the Nikon mount, and filed thin slots into the edges of the Nikon mount plate. I placed it on the camera body to check my work, and then put four of the five screws in to double-check. The fifth screw's location on the Pentax is in the same place as the latch pin on the Nikon, so I will not be able to put a screw there.




Next, I used the same edge of the file to make shallow "cuts" across the top of the mount, going all the way across the top. This is what will give the mount plate the clearance required for the screw heads.



With the screws in place, we can check the clearance. Looks good!





Time for a test fit, using what is left of the teleconverter:



Everything looks good, but the TC is a touch loose since we have not yet added a locking pin. We can temporarily work around this by spreading the springs on the back of the mount plate:



The last step is to take the flat part of the file, and gently de-burr and bevel every edge we made. This takes a while, but ensures that we won't cut our fingers or scratch the backs of any lenses. When finished, the mount is perfectly smooth to the touch. Cool



So there we have it! In the end, I found a solution which is strong, easily reversible (for both the Pentax body and the Nikon teleconverter!), non-permanent (so I can still add a spacer if I need to), and didn't require exotic tools- all while maintaining the correct orientation for the Nikon mount! Cool

Needless to say, I'm very pleased with the results. Surprised


_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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Farside



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excelletn Penkon!
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farside wrote:
Excelletn Penkon!


Haha. Very Happy I hadn't thought about what to call it... But P30t-F has a nice ring to it, and wouldn't take as many stickers. Wink

So I have my test roll of film in it now, and it turns out that I will in fact be needing a spacer for the mount. Focusing isn't a problem, but my Kalimar lens has just a bit of a shield around the rear element, and with the lens in place, the mirror will occasionally get stuck in the up position. Neutral Moving the lens on the mount just a touch will let the mirror fall back down, so we're talking just a hair of extra clearance that I need...

I'm thinking I might do it by pulling the mount, and putting a single strip of black electrical/insulation tape around the opening on the mounting surface, then screwing the mount back down. Anyone have any better ideas? Question
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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peterqd



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scheimpflug wrote:
Anyone have any better ideas? Question

Why not use simple washers between the two rings (assuming the screws are long enough)?.

Great job though, well done, I quite like the P30. About the wind lever, have you thought of looking for a broken donor camera on eBay? Any of the P range cameras would be OK for what you need. Here's a current one:
Click here to see on Ebay, I could bid for it on your behalf if you want, although he posts worldwide.
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The screws should be long enough to accommodate thin washers... but wouldn't that give me light leaks?

I have looked at other P-series cameras, but it is the shipping that really drives the prices up. Neutral It's the sort of situation where, if you're going to spend $25 to ship a $3 parts camera, you might as well spend an extra $10 to get a working camera shipped to you instead. Wink And at that price, I would have tripled my investment! Can't do that! Mr. Green

This whole project is really just a low-budget stopgap.. something to let me shoot some film while I save up for a "real" Nikon body. Well, unless I end up liking the Pentax. Wink

I'll definitely keep checking for a local broken P-series though. Actually, I wonder if any of the other Cosina bodies would have the same winder lever?
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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peterqd



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scheimpflug wrote:
The screws should be long enough to accommodate thin washers... but wouldn't that give me light leaks?

I have looked at other P-series cameras, but it is the shipping that really drives the prices up. Neutral It's the sort of situation where, if you're going to spend $25 to ship a $3 parts camera, you might as well spend an extra $10 to get a working camera shipped to you instead. Wink And at that price, I would have tripled my investment! Can't do that! Mr. Green

This whole project is really just a low-budget stopgap.. something to let me shoot some film while I save up for a "real" Nikon body. Well, unless I end up liking the Pentax. Wink

I'll definitely keep checking for a local broken P-series though. Actually, I wonder if any of the other Cosina bodies would have the same winder lever?

I was assuming you were going to use a rolled up strip of black tape as a light seal, or maybe string or foam.

Sorry, I didn't make it clear. I can bid for the camera and if I win it I can take off the lever and just send you that. You pay the camera price plus postage for the lever only, if that's the only part you need. Actually, I'll pay the postage to you.
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kuuan



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great effort Scheimpflug, and thank you for documenting it so well. I hope it will all turn out to your satisfaction.

peterqd wrote:
....
One other idea - I've heard that Nikon lenses will fit the Pentax mount directly. Sometimes the lens can be a loose(ish) fit and obviously it won't lock but a lot of people find it works OK. Have you tried it?


It seems that the K mount changed a bit from analog to digital SLR which has the socalled 'crippeled' KA mount. Thus Nikkors usually fit on Pentax dSLR but hardly on Pentax analog SLR.

check out this thread in a french forum ( the photos tell the story ) where someone shows how he reduced the K mount on his camera to make Nikkors fit: http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/Photonumerique/Objectif/adaptation-objectifs-bagues-sujet_12101_10.htm#t2247119

regards,
Andreas
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FOR SALE sales a rather on hold now! - I just left Austria, where the lenses are kept and don't know yet when I shall return to be able to send a lens. Possibly a friend of mine could send lenses before my return but still it could take a while, reservations possible any time lenses all in good condition, prices in Euro + shipping worldwide from Austria, interested please P.M. ( two lenses have issues, see notes )
M42 Takumars: presets: f2/58mm ( rare Sonnar ) 320.- f3.5/135mm 60.- Auto Taks: f3.5/35mm 65.- f2/55mm 40.- Super Taks: f3.5/135mm 35.- S-M-C Taks: f3.5/28mm 80.- f2/35mm 150.-
other M42: Vivitar f3.5/17mm (*) 50.- Auto Yashinon f2/5cm 55.- Pentax K: Kiron f2.8/28mm 30.- AF lens Sigma f2.8-4.5 17-70mm incl. 72mm UV filter 170.-
Sony E mount AF Sony SEL f2.8/16mm 100.- Olympus OM: Olympus H-Zuiko f2.8/24mm 150.- Olympus Pen-F Zuikos: f2.8/25mm (**) 125.- f1.4/40mm 190.-
Rollei QBM: Voigtländer Color-Skoparex AR f2.8 28mm 70.- Nikon F: Nikkor-NC Auto f2.8/24mm 120.- Nikkor-S Auto f1.4/50mm 70.- Tamron Adaptall: f2.5/28mm 35.-
notes: Vivitar f3.5/17mm (*): defect on coating or beginning separation of second to rear element, slight blooming at wide aperture to no impact on IQ -- Pen-F 2.8/25mm (**): coating damage on rear lens, 'light bleeding' at high contrast against light, some blooming at wide aperture
camera Pentax AP, the 'Original Pentax 50.-, if bought in set with it's lens, the f2/58mm Takumar + 25.-, set with defective 2/58 for 120.-

photos of and by manual lenses on Ricoh GXR M, Sony NEX5N, Pentax K-x and*istDs:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections/72157604973031858/
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martyn_bannister



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scheimpflug wrote:
Ok, it's finished! Surprised Surprised Surprised


Nicely executed and documented project and looks like an excellent result. I am impressed !
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the kind words, Andreas and Martyn. Cool

Since I still had the parts handy, I took a picture of the Pentax mount on the back of the Nikon teleconverter shell. Even without the modifications, I think this picture demonstrates why I wouldn't trust a lens to be mounted like this.



You can see that the Nikon mount is significantly smaller in diameter than the throat of the Pentax flange... enough so that with the lens pushed all the way to one side (as pictured here), very very little of the Nikon bayonet tabs actually hold against the Pentax tabs. Shocked It isn't rotated all the way in this picture, as that would require the modification pictured in that other forum thread... but even as it is here, it is possible to slip two of the three tabs over each other and remove the lens from the mount. Shocked
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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Scheimpflug



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, I have determined one more useful bit of information. I had a short break the other afternoon, with some great weather, so I pulled the mount and put one quick layer of tape down to act as both a thin spacer and as a light leak prevention. It was only temporary just to do some testing, but I had forgotten that one of my lenses was an AI lens. The little peg on the side of the aperture ring snagged the tape, and really did a number on it! Shocked






So for "Round 2" of light leak prevention, I'll have to take a bit more time and ensure that no part of the tape extends beyond the perimeter of the mount. Wink Peter's suggestion of string is another good one, and almost makes me wonder if a thin piece of soft wire insulation might also work? Or even just a rubber band?
_________________
Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers Wink), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F)
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