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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10970 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:44 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Cool little projector. Yeah, I've seen the projector-duplicator rig. Clever, but it sure helps if you already know something about electronics and breadboarding your own circuits and stuff.
My rig's a lot simpler |
the custom circuitry is way overkill for less than a few hundred slides. works fine without all that, manually using only projector advance and camera remote shutter. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10970 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:02 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
pablo wrote: |
I hadn't thought about a slide projector, but that is a good idea. I wish I still had my old Leica projector.
The LED light source I was looking at is here (30 LED, 5500K)
http://www.adorama.com/FPVL30L.html?searchinfo=flashpoint
I can solder well, but I'd need some sort of circuit diagram. |
That LED light seems overpriced. I use these http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/2-pk-of-72-led-work-lights.aspx?a=519346 ; would be easy to glue a mount for flash shoe attachment.
LED specular light sometimes causes problems with white balance.
LEDs and circuit diagrams are here: http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html
ebaY has some very high power led arrays; these need mounting on heat sink. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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pablo
Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 6 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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pablo wrote:
Hi, thanks for the links. Do you know what the dimensions of the LED panel is in the worklight? Looks like maybe 2"x8". |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10970 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
pablo wrote: |
Do you know what the dimensions of the LED panel is in the worklight? Looks like maybe 2"x8". |
The "lens" covering the led array is 1-1/4" x 6-7/8"; entire unit is 2-1/4" x 8-5/8" x 1-1/4". _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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darmodej
Joined: 03 Jun 2009 Posts: 284 Location: Bratislava, Slovakia
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:37 am Post subject: |
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darmodej wrote:
Great report, thanks!
Would there be any benefit from making several photos of a single slide/negative in HDR style ... +/- 1EV? _________________ Jan
DSLR: Canon eos 5D mkII
COMPACTS: Minotla HI-MATIC F, Yashica 35 Electro GTN
SLR: a few Prakticas, Canon eos 5, Yashica FRI, Contax RX
Medium Format: Mockba 5, Reflex Korelle
Lenses
CZ Contax: Distagon 2.8/28, Distagon 1.4/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Vario-Sonnar 4/80-200
CZJ m42: Flektogon 2.8/20 MC, Pancolar 50/1.8
Schneider: Tele-Xenar 3.5/135 (m42), Xenar 2.8/80 (RK)
CCCP m42 Industar-50 3.5/50, Helios 44-2 2/58, Tair-3-PhS 4.5/300
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
darmodej wrote: |
Great report, thanks!
Would there be any benefit from making several photos of a single slide/negative in HDR style ... +/- 1EV? |
Sorry I'm just now responding to this question. It's been a few months since I've dropped in at the forum.
I have tried doing HDR from slides and the results I get are not nearly as useful as those you'll get with a digital camera. My results showed more detail, yes, but when the images were combined, there was in general a washed out look to everything. Also, some of the HDR software I tried wouldn't work cuz it was looking for EXIF lens info, which didn't exist cuz I was using an old Micro Nikkor.
Sorry about all the missing images in my earlier posts in this thread. My hosting service had a catastrophic server crash and lost all data. I have reloaded only a small fraction of all the data I had located on my website so far. I imagine I've got a great many broken links at this site now. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:45 am Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
Apologies for digging up such an old thread.
Does anyone know where I could find negative strip holders, so I could use them in my slide duplicator? I tried constructing something from paper and plastic, but I had to conclude that my cutting and gluing skills aren't the best.
Is there a specific name I could use to search via google? Film holder, strip holder, negative holder, etc. doesn't return anything useful, besides some flatbed scanner hits. _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
Cistron wrote: |
Apologies for digging up such an old thread.
Does anyone know where I could find negative strip holders, so I could use them in my slide duplicator? I tried constructing something from paper and plastic, but I had to conclude that my cutting and gluing skills aren't the best.
Is there a specific name I could use to search via google? Film holder, strip holder, negative holder, etc. doesn't return anything useful, besides some flatbed scanner hits. |
try 'slide copier' _________________ T* |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
poilu wrote: |
try 'slide copier' |
Oh, I have a slide duplicator already. I'm just having troubles fitting a film strip into it. My latest idea was to sandwich it between two sheets of clear acrylic. _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
These people sell a variety of slide copiers and sleeves for them:
http://specialtyphotographic.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
If you click on the menu button on the top and then click on "Universal" on the right, this is the copier you see all over eBay these days.
They keep changing the design of these things, dammit. The last one everybody was selling was better in my view because it had an adjustable slide stage and some of them, if not all, came with a film strip adapter. Not anymore. Hopefully the film strip adapter they show on the home page will work with yours. If I were you, I'd email them a photo of mine and ask if they have a film strip adapter that will work.
Other than these guys, I don't know who to suggest. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
Thanks, Michael.
I've stumbled across a few more things when you search for negative carrier. One is on ebay and I asked for the measurements. In order for it to fit into my "Peak" duplicator it mustn't be wider/higher than 5cm.
I've also found clear polycarbonate or acrylic sheets online. If I cut them to 5cm width, sandwich the film in between and clamp them together, I should be able to wedge it into the duplicator. A lot of work though... _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Well, good luck in your searches. I was reading through their site a bit more, and they actually offer more than one model of film strip holder. So they still may be your best bet.
To change the subject a bit, though. Are you planning on duping color negs as well as b&w? B&W are easy to process. But I have't had much luck with color. I've found that some will reverse and display fine with maybe one or two clicks in pp, while with others it's a real struggle to get the colors close to the original, and with others, it's just flat not possible . . . or maybe I should just say that I haven't figured out yet how to do it.
During previous discussions of this problem -- I don't know if it was here or at another forum -- somebody suggested taking a dupe of just a blank exposed portion of the film so I'd have that exact orange, and then subtract that orange from the negative, then invert the negative. I'll admit, I haven't tried this yet, and it may well be the answer.
So anyway, if you're able to successfully convert color negs, please let us know how you do it. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
I'll try both and slide film. First I'll try to colour balance against my flash-gun. Inversion of negatives is pretty straight-forwards in LR - simply invert the end points in the curve settings. If the colour balance is still off, there is always the eye-dropper tool.
What software have you been using? _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I have Lightroom, but I don't use it much. I also have PS, and I use it more, but mostly I use Paint Shop Pro X2. It does most everything I need and will do some things that I haven't figured out how to do in PS yet.
After I posted the previous message, I started getting curious again since it's been quite a while since I've messed with converting color negs, and after a lot of trial and error with both packages, I found a fairly simple way to get a decent result in PS and an even simpler way to get a decent result in PSP X2. So I'm kinda stoked by this. For very fine quality neg conversions, though, I wouldn't deem either acceptable since they both leave behind a bit of residual masking color that's really hard to get rid of and just don't seem to have the full range of colors one would expect with a well-crafted photo. But for QD stuff, they do a good job. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:58 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Revisiting this thread, I realize I didn't post what I did to get halfway decent results converting color negative images. Pretty simple really.
With Photoshop (CS5), I go to Images>Adjustments>Invert and then Images>Auto Tone and then Images>Auto Color.
With Paint Shop Pro X2, I go to Adjust>Color Balance>Fade Correction to come up with a reasonable representation. But with earlier versions of PSP I don't get as good of results. These earlier versions work better if you do Adjust>Color Balance>Grey World Color Balance and then maybe a bit of contrast adjustment. The routines get you close at least.
The PS conversions seem to work better than the PSP ones.
If you try these things out, let me know if you come out with better ways of doing things. We all learn from each other, you know. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:37 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
Michael wrote: |
I realize I didn't post what I did to get halfway decent results converting color negative images |
Michael, if you cannot obtain good colors, it is the fault of the converter
those tools doesn't give real colors, they are tweaked for user preference, they make statistic and select the winner profile
unfortunately, those tweak doesn't work when the image is inverted
it is a shame that even the faithful profile of PS is not right
better use rawtherapee or capture one _________________ T* |
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DigiChromeEd
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3460 Location: Northern Ireland
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
This may be of help:
http://www.photosolve.com/main/resources/pw_film_conv/index.html _________________ "I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
Another useful software is VueScan. I've just won an Epson V300 off the bay and will give this a try as soon as I can. Maybe the film strip carrier fits the slide duplicator, so that would be two birds with one stone. We'll see. _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10970 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
The Epson V500 bundled (Epson) software has color-negative conversion that works pretty well!
Wherever two flat surfaces meet there can be moire patterns produced. Better to us ANR glass than clear glass or acrylic.j _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
A scanner that comes with a negative carrier should do a decent job of inverting a negative to a positive image or else it's pretty useless, isn't it?
The topic of this thread has mostly been about how to use a DSLR to dupe images. But duping negs is tricky.
Thanks, DigiChromeEd, for that link. The very last method discussed is the one that I think will be the most useful. However, please note where he states, "If your inversion results in a not quite right color leveled picture, simply try using Image, Adjust, Auto Levels." I note that the curves box he has displayed is from a Mac, and I don't know if the commands are different or if this is just an old web page and is calling out for commands that have changed in a later version of PS. I have CS5. And in mine this sequence appears to be identical to that which I called out above, namely Images>Adjustments>Invert and then Images>Auto Tone and then Images>Auto Color. I didn't do anything at all with the orange mask to invert and get very close.
I'll post some examples in my next message using both PS CS5 and PSP X2. I'd post them here, but my computer dual boots between Win 7 and XP and right now it's in Win 7 and I don't have PSPX2 loaded on Win 7 yet. So I have to boot to XP. _________________ Michael
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:13 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
To show how I've been doing the conversions, I decided to start fresh and do a few from the beginning. It was while doing this that I reminded myself that Kodak Ektar responds quite differently from other color negative films when being scanned and that perhaps some of my difficulties have been because I've been trying to get accurately colored duplicates from Ektar. And I think this has been my stumbling block, by and large because most of the negatives I've been working on have been Ektar. But even so, with a few of the Ektar negs, I've finally managed to do a decent job and it ended up not being all that difficult. Just a lot of trial and error.
Okay here is a scan of a photo of a caboose. Nikon F2, 24mm f/2.8 AI-s, exposure unrecorded. It was scanned on an Epson 4990 and I'm sure I didn't do any special tweaking within the EpsonScan software. I don't recall, but I may have adjusted the colors after the scan because grayish-browns tend to take on a purple hue with Ektar when scanned with my 4990.
I have tried dozens of times to get an accurately colored duplicate of the above image. Even using the routines I suggest above doesn't do a very good job. I wind up with something that looks like this:
BTW, I know the two images are different size-wise. For some reason I cropped the dupe of this negative.
I have found that, in PhotoShop, after I do the Auto Color and Auto Tone stuff, if I bring up the Image/Adjustments/Color Balance and then Image/Adjustments/Hue-Saturation, and tweak the image with these settings, I can finally get pretty close. Still some residual cyan that I can't entirely get rid of.
And in Paint Shop Pro X2, I can achieve even better results with less work. With PSP, I invert the negative then go to Adjust/Color/Fade Correction, which takes care of most of it, although there's still some residual cyan. But next I import the image into PSP's "Express Lab" where the default state when you enter it is with the eyedropper being active. So I select an area that is closest to 18% gray and click on it, and voila. Done. With PSP almost all the cyan is gone, but the sky is not the right color now. Oh well.
But wait, there's more! Just thought I'd also show you some results from non-Ektar negatives. These are considerably easier and in their cases all I have to do is the original steps I outlined above.
Fuji Superia 400
My daughter's cat, whom she's named "Squirrel" but whom I call "The Brat Cat" because that's what she is.
First Photoshop just doing the Auto Tone and Auto Color steps only:
And then PSP X2, doing the Fade Correction. I had to make an additional step and bring it into the Express Lab to get rid of some green tint that shouldn't have been there. Just one click.
Kodak Gold 200
A train trestle along the coast in Ft. Bragg, CA. First is a scan done with my Epson 4990.
Then PS:
And then PSP X2:
There are still slight color variations, but at least I'm getting close. _________________ Michael
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Last edited by cooltouch on Fri Dec 30, 2011 5:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:06 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Nice work Michael, I am paying attention as soon I am entering the world of scanning myself. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
During previous discussions of this problem -- I don't know if it was here or at another forum -- somebody suggested taking a dupe of just a blank exposed portion of the film so I'd have that exact orange, and then subtract that orange from the negative, then invert the negative. I'll admit, I haven't tried this yet, and it may well be the answer.
So anyway, if you're able to successfully convert color negs, please let us know how you do it. |
Was it my thread, perhaps?
http://forum.mflenses.com/no-color-from-old-kodak-c-41-film-samples-inside-t35409.html
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/85814-no-color-old-kodak-c-41-film-samples-inside.html
I've had some good success now using a blue backlight, and when using the slide copying rig with negatives, I've always made sure that just a touch of the orange border is captured by the camera in each frame so that I can use it as the orange mask reference. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:47 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Interesting way to handle this. I'll admit that I haven't pursued the orange mask since I've gotten non-Ektar negs to work acceptably. I should still give it a go, though. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10970 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:01 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Hey I missed some of this thread.
Fort Bragg?! That's near my neck of the woods! _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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