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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:47 pm Post subject: Vivitar - Kiron 2/24mm Be Careful! |
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Pancolart wrote:
Yes, i loved specifications and reviews were good. Sadly after disassembled 3 pcs all had one (the same) back element deteriorated. This element can't be cleaned.
Some of you might be familiar with Japanese 400 and 500mm generic lenses sold under Travenar, Hanimex, Rubimat, Beroflex and some other labels that have nearly always one back element hazed irreversible in similar way (well this element is pretty basic and big and optic store nearby made me replacements for 20 EUR/pc).
Anyway before buying Vivitar - Kiron 2/24mm look through lens carefully and buy only if bright and clean. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Many thanks for the hint, i was just thinking about one of these ...
Do you have an idea about the fact that the rear element cannot be cleaned ?
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
I guess strange kind of soft glass (just this particular element - 3rd or 4th from the back). Vinegar acid 5% eat it badly in half an hour. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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CarbonR
Joined: 31 Dec 2008 Posts: 1969 Location: Clermont-Ferrand, France
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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CarbonR wrote:
Mine has some haze on the rear element too (Kiron made too). But I see no sharpness/contrast lost, and I don't want to sell it, so I see no reason to clean it _________________ Cameras : Canon 5D, Pentax K100D, Pentax 6x7, Spotmatic
Lenses : 15mm to 1000mm (24x36)
My websites : [FR & ENG]Takumar - the eyes of the Spotmatic : info about all Takumar lenses // Kogaku - My photo site
I am selling : Takumar lenses and rare Pentax bodies, pm me if you're interested in something [MFLenses feed-back]
Information on Takumar lenses with samples :
Wide angle : Takumar 15/3.5 15mm, Takumar 17/4 17mm, Takumar 18/11 18mm, Takumar 20/4.5 20mm, Takumar 24/3.5 24mm, Takumar 28/3.5 V1 28mm, Takumar 28/3.5 V2 28mm, Takumar 35/2 V1 35mm, Takumar 35/2 V2 35mm, Takumar 35/2.3 35mm, Takumar 35/3.5 35mm, Takumar 35/4 35mm
Standard : Takumar 50/1.4 V1 50mm, Takumar 50/1.4 V2 50mm, Takumar 50/3.5 50mm, Takumar 50/4 50mm, Takumar 55/2 55/1.8 55mm, Takumar 55/2.2 V1 55mm, Takumar 55/2.2 V2 55mm, Takumar 58/2 58mm, Takumar 58/2.4 58mm
Short tele : Takumar 83/1.9 83mm, Takumar 85/1.8 85/1.9 85mm, Takumar 85/1.8 85mm, Takumar 100/2 100mm, Takumar 100/3.5 100mm, Takumar 100/4 100mm, Takumar 105/2.8 V1 105mm, Takumar 105/2.8 V2 105mm, Takumar 120/2.8 120mm
Telephoto : Takumar 135/2.5 V1 135mm, Takumar 135/2.5 V2 135mm, Takumar 135/3.5 V1 135mm, Takumar 135/3.5 V2 135mm, Takumar 150/4 V1 150mm, Takumar 150/4 V2 150mm
Long tele : Takumar 200/3.5 200mm, Takumar 200/4 200mm, Takumar 200/5.6 200mm, Takumar 300/4 V1 300mm, Takumar 300/4 V2 300mm, Takumar 300/4 V3 300mm, Takumar 300/6.3 300mm, Takumar 400/5.6 400mm, Takumar 500/4.5 500mm, Takumar 500/5 500mm, Takumar 1000/8 V1 1000mm, Takumar 1000/8 V2 1000mm
Zoom : Zoom-Takumar 45~125/4 , Zoom-Takumar 70~150/4.5 , Zoom-Takumar 85~210/4.5 , Zoom-Takumar 135~600/6.7
Achromatic : Ultra-Achromatic-Takumar 85/4.5 , Ultra-Achromatic-Takumar 300/5.6 300mm |
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1387 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
CarbonR wrote: |
Mine has some haze on the rear element too (Kiron made too). But I see no sharpness/contrast lost, and I don't want to sell it, so I see no reason to clean it |
There *is* loss of contrast. You could easily see it by shooting the same scene before and after the cleaning. I cleaned a Vivitar S1 135/2.3, and the difference was obvious. Here are my test pictures: http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-haze-effect-on-picture-quality-t19581,highlight,haze.html _________________ List of lenses |
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Screamin Scott
Joined: 13 Oct 2007 Posts: 1014 Location: Dallas, Georgia USA
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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Screamin Scott wrote:
I've got the Komine made Vivitar 24mm F2....No problems with my version _________________ Cameras-Nikon D300, D7100,D610,FE2,FTN ,FT2,N90s, Olympus Pen EP-3 & Olympus OM-D E-M10
Nikkor AF Zooms=28-105/3.5D,28-70/3.5D,35-135/3.5, et al
Nikkor AF //50/1.8,//Nikkor MF//50/2ai,50/1.8ais 50/1.4ai,24/2.8ais,28/2.8ai,28/3.5ai,55microAis/2.8,105/2.5ai,200/4ai,300/4.5ai35-135/3.5Ais,et al
Kiron /Kino made lenses//70-210/4ai,28-105/3.2ai,30-80/3.5ai,Viv 28/2ai,35-85/2.8aiVivS1,105/2.8Ais Dine,24-48/3.8ai VivS1,50-150/3.8aiViv,28-85/2.8aiViv,100/2.8Nai Viv,70-210/3.5Nai Viv,28/2.5ai Viv Komine made Viv//24/2Ais,135/2.8aiCF,28-50/3.5ai,28-90/2.8ai Viv S1,80-200/4.5aiCosina made Viv 19/3.8 Ais...Also Sigma 24/2.8 Ais Tokina made24/2.8ai VivAF Sigma 21-35/3.5,& other lenses... A link to some of my Flickr albums...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/albums |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 414
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
I wonder if this is also a problem with the Kiron 28/2?
Last edited by jjphoto on Sun Mar 10, 2013 9:50 am; edited 1 time in total |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
jjphoto wrote: |
I wonder if this is also a problem with the Kiron 28/2?
I've recently purchased a Kiron 28/2 and found it's contrast to be lower, but not poor, compared to the Contax Distagon 28/2.8. It was fairly noticeable at wider apertures but much improved when stopped down. STill quite a sharp lens, in the central area anyway. I just wonder if it has the same kind of glass in it as the 24/2.
JJ |
Hold the lens to a light and look through it, you will soon see if there is a problem with one of the elements as it will look dull _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 414
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
ManualFocus-G wrote: |
jjphoto wrote: |
I wonder if this is also a problem with the Kiron 28/2?
I've recently purchased a Kiron 28/2 and found it's contrast to be lower, but not poor, compared to the Contax Distagon 28/2.8. It was fairly noticeable at wider apertures but much improved when stopped down. STill quite a sharp lens, in the central area anyway. I just wonder if it has the same kind of glass in it as the 24/2.
JJ |
Hold the lens to a light and look through it, you will soon see if there is a problem with one of the elements as it will look dull |
It looked OK when I first looked at it but I'll have a closer look when I get a chance.
JJ |
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PBFACTS
Joined: 24 Dec 2008 Posts: 569
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Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject: Re: Vivitar - Kiron 2/24mm Be Careful! |
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PBFACTS wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
Yes, i loved specifications and reviews were good. Sadly after disassembled 3 pcs all had one (the same) back element deteriorated. This element can't be cleaned.
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This is a well known problem :
Some kiron lenses had a coating deterioration problem ( certainly a over-normal sensibility to fungus)..
This mean that ALL kiron and kiron made (vivitar) CAN have a coating deterioration problem _________________ OM USER .. I KEEP/USE:
Om2 sp + T32 (grip/filter/zoom) + T8
+ Zuiko 16mm 3.5 / 55mm 1.2 / 65-200 4/ x1.4
+ Sigma 8mm 4.0 / 14mm 3.5 / 18-35 3.5-4.5
+ Tamron 35/105 2.8
+Tokina 150/500 5.6
+ Kiron 105/2.8 macro 1:1
+ Vivitar S1 90/180 falst field macro
+ 2x Doubler HR7
>>I SELL: OM10 + OM4ti
+ i sell: OM Md1 + Md 2 + Grip PowerPack + charger
+ i sell: OM Zuiko 24mm 2.8 / 28mm 3.5 / 50mm 1.8 / 50mm 1.4 / 50mm 3.5 macro / 35-70 3.6 / 35-105 3.5-4.5 / 75-150 4 / 500mm / 2xA
+ i sell: OM Kiron 28/105 3.2-4.5 / 1.5 converter
+ i sell: OM Makinon reflex 5.6/300 + Spector reflex (makinon) 500mm
+ i sell: OM Macro panagor extender 1:1
+ i sell: OM Sigma 16mm 2.8 fisheye (last version) / 21-35 3.5-4.2 ot/ 28-70 2.8 /1000mm mirror
+ i sell: Tamron 28-70 3.5-4.5 / 28-80 sp 3.5-4.2 / 28-135 sp 4-4.5 / /28-200 3.5 / 35-135 3..5-4.5 / 90mm sp macro 1:1 2.8
+ i sell: OM Soligor 2x doubler / x3 converte
+ i sell: Soligor FisheEye x0.15
+ i sell: OM Tokina 28/135 4-4.6 / 70/210 3.5 (= vivitar S1 v2)
+ i sell: OM Vivitar 28-70 3.5-4.8 / 28-90 s1 2.8-3.5 / 35-70 2.8-3.8 / 55/2.8 Macro 1:1 (komine) / 70-150 3.8 ot (kiron) / 75-150 ot 3.8 (tokina + 2x matched)
+ i sell : OM cosina 100-500 5.6/8
Last edited by PBFACTS on Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
If it is a coating deterioration problem, can you remove the coating to make the lens usable again? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Nope. That was my initial post. And it's not coating. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Russ
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 432
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Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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Russ wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
Nope. That was my initial post. And it's not coating. |
it sounds as if you are referring to the lubricants breaking down and "outgassing" leaving a fine film of lubricant on one or more elements. The Kiron lenses are known for their superb coatings. _________________ 'A photograph that mirrors reality, cannot compare to one that reflects the spirit"
Russ |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Nope. It's glass deterioration. I am referring only to this particular model. I love Kirons by the way. If i find healthy 2/24mm i will still buy it. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Russ
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 432
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Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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Russ wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
Nope. It's glass deterioration. I am referring only to this particular model. I love Kirons by the way. If i find healthy 2/24mm i will still buy it. |
Interesting. This is the first I've heard of Kiron glass deterioration. You'll love the Kiron 24mm f/2 lens. My Panagor (Kiron) 24mm f/2.5 and 21mm f/4 lenses are also stellar performers.
_________________ 'A photograph that mirrors reality, cannot compare to one that reflects the spirit"
Russ |
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
made me check my Vivitar - Kiron f2/24. looks clear to me, and I like it quite a lot, it is my most used wide angle lens. _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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mikeSF
Joined: 01 May 2009 Posts: 1 Location: SF bay area, CA
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Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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mikeSF wrote:
I have several Vivitar 28's (and 24) of different makes and find the Kiron made f/2.0 to be my least favorite. The aperture blades were all gummed up and even now still move slowly and inconsistently. Also, I see a number of bubbles or blisters in the elements; at first i thought this might be element separation but i don't know for sure.
I will see if i can get a pic of this issue.
It was a $15 lens, so i am not too broken up about it but so far find the Kiron version to be highly disappointing.
By contrast i find the Tokina and Komine variants to be just stellar. |
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motleypixel
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Austin, TX USA
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Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:08 am Post subject: |
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motleypixel wrote:
That's too bad to hear that. I just checked my Kiron 24/2 by Kino Precision of Japan and all looks good.
_________________ -Roy
T h e M o t l e y P i x e l |
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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 841
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:00 am Post subject: |
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vivaldibow wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
CarbonR wrote: |
Mine has some haze on the rear element too (Kiron made too). But I see no sharpness/contrast lost, and I don't want to sell it, so I see no reason to clean it |
There *is* loss of contrast. You could easily see it by shooting the same scene before and after the cleaning. I cleaned a Vivitar S1 135/2.3, and the difference was obvious. Here are my test pictures: http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-haze-effect-on-picture-quality-t19581,highlight,haze.html |
I can tell the difference. Interestingly enough, today one of my recently purchased lens arrived. Right after I put on the camera, I can see the contrast is very low. I had thought it is the lens' design. Upon close inspection, I find there is haze on the inner element. Haze does reduce the contrast dramatically. It is the first time I see haze in a lens. I guess because it is a really beaten-up one. Time for me to do some DIY... |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 6:28 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
It is very likely glass corrosion.
Different glass has different chemical resistance. Some glass types have no problem with longer humidity and for example acid substances, other glass types detoriate fast. It is like with the wineglass in the dish-washer, they get tarnished after many dishwasher runs.
AR coated glass is normaly much better than uncoated glass in this regard, but given the age of these lenses it seems not good enough.
I have a big Tessar lens and a Meostigmat with the same problem. Up to now my lens polishing experiments did´t help there. Too much of the material is detoriated. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars
Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 249 Location: Austria
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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote:
Sorry for dragging that old thread back on top of the forum again, but I want to know what we´re talking about. Here´s my issue of that lens in the manifestation of a Vivitar.
Is that it? The hindmost element of soft glass deteriorated due to oil dust from the aperture blades or similar, or am I looking at a different phenomenon here that is probably remediable?
_________________ Cheers, Gerhard |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
According to these photos it looks quite good and imho no reason to worry. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2535
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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
Could also be haze in the cemented element (if it has one) _________________ pentaxian |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 1:46 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Seems like it could be cleaned. No way to know until you try. Haze from evaporated lubricants is common. I have also run into uncleanable haze in a few cases. In those it seems like the glass was etched somehow. That problem, IMHO, is not limited to any given lens, I have noted it in several makes. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars
Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 249 Location: Austria
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Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2021 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote:
Yes the haze looks rather minor. It´s difficult to photograph the phenomenon properly. From close-up examination I can tell it´s not a split or broken glass. I only fixed a lens once, a really good Zuiko with stuck aperture, but that was simple because the previous owner had the aperture control button inserted wrongly and the procedure was simple. I´m a bit worried doing more harm than good by opening up an otherwise perfectly fine lens. Well, I probably know more when I tried it on a full frame camera, just waiting for the adapter to arrive.
Thank you for your answers. _________________ Cheers, Gerhard |
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