View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:07 pm Post subject: Jammed Spotmatic? |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
The other day I was able to help Matt on the other forum with a problem with his Pentax S1a. He'd wound on the film and cocked the shutter but the shutter release button wouldn't depress and he couldn't wind on any further. The camera was completely jammed.
The problem affects all Pentax Spotmatic models and probably all the earlier SLRs like Matt's. It happens when, for some reason, the mirror mechanism doesn't become cocked with the shutter when the film advance lever is operated. Fortunately it's very simple to cure this.
Remove the bottom plate and hold the camera with the lens facing away from you. To the left of the tripod mount there's a lever projecting up through a slot. There's a long spring hooked into a hole in the end of the lever. With your finger nail push the lever upwards towards the lens to the end of its slot and it will latch itself. Then fire the shutter and camera is back to normal.
So now you know what to do if you see a Spottie being sold for spares/repair because it's jammed! The camera in the pictures is an SPII which I bought for a few pounds recently and, as you can see, the problem was cured in a flash.
_________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:14 pm; edited 4 times in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
|
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Jesito wrote:
Hello Peter,
Great trick, and nice pictures!.
You've mastered the Spotmatic...
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
|
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
luisalegria wrote:
Hmm,
Best not to let word get around - at least not until I can grab a couple of "broken" Spotmatics ! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
Hello Peter,
Great trick, and nice pictures!.
You've mastered the Spotmatic...
Jes. |
Oh no, I don't think so! You should see the PCB and wiring in the SPF! I'm going to be consulting my electronics expert again soon! _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
|
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
maddog10 wrote:
This Forum is GREAT!
Here are photos of my "Jammed Spotmatic" that I bought off eBay. Fixed 2 minutes after it was out of the shipping box
_________________ Michael Hill |
|
Back to top |
|
|
LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
|
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
LucisPictor wrote:
Wow! Now I see this. Great! _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
Wonderful Michael, I'm really pleased it helped you.
That camera looks like it's in superb condition. Having both the black studs for the PC flash sockets still in place is a good indication - I'd take a bet this camera jammed years ago just after it was new and has been stored away ever since. You'll probably find the door seals and mirror buffer need replacing and the shutter and mirror might be a bit sticky to start with until they've been used a few times.
When you start using it I'd be very keen to know how you get on, particularly about the metering and the battery. Don't believe what some people say that it will work fine with a 1.5v silver oxide cell - mine underexposed the first roll by at least 1.5 stops. As a temproary measure you can increase the ASA setting x3 (i.e. set it on 1200 for a 400 film). _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
|
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:47 am Post subject: |
|
|
maddog10 wrote:
I am very happy with it! I bought it hoping the information in this thread would fix it. The seals all look good, but are starting to get sticky. I am going to throw a Wein Cell 1.35v battery in it shortly and go out for a test ride. _________________ Michael Hill |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cheekygeek
Joined: 05 Aug 2008 Posts: 183
|
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cheekygeek wrote:
So what causes this in the FIRST place? (Why is the pin out of place - or not returning by itself - or whatever it is supposed to do?) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
cheekygeek wrote: |
So what causes this in the FIRST place? (Why is the pin out of place - or not returning by itself - or whatever it is supposed to do?) |
When you wind the advance lever, the cogs turn and the long lever at top left pushes the "pin" along the slot. As the pin approaches the top of the slot it pushes the latch across, against its spring, until it passes the latch and then the latch should flip across to stop the pin sliding back down. The camera jams when the latch doesn't catch the pin properly and it returns to the bottom of the slot, as in the first pic.
I'm not exactly sure why this happens. Often I've found that a tiny dab of grease on the latch, where it slides under the pin is enough to cure the problem. A spot of oil where the latch pivots is also a good idea. It could also be a weak latch spring. Once or twice I've had to resort to bending the latch very slightly. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ryan s
Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 384 Location: Madison, WI
|
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ryan s wrote:
Always try the "bang-it-on-the-palm-of-your-other-hand" trick first and foremost...just don't tell the seller that's what you're going to do
I've un-jammed a couple cameras that way...a couple more by poking around with a screwdriver. It works _________________ Pentax Bodies: K10D + D-BG2 | MX |
M: Zenitar 16/2.8 | 28/2.8 | 50/1.7 | M39: Mir-1 GP 37/2.8 M42: Vivitar 28/2.5 AD2: Tamron SP Macro 90/2.5 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
ryan s wrote: |
Always try the "bang-it-on-the-palm-of-your-other-hand" trick first and foremost...just don't tell the seller that's what you're going to do
I've un-jammed a couple cameras that way...a couple more by poking around with a screwdriver. It works |
Ryan, if you saw how the heavy prism is held in place on the Spottie you'd think twice about banging the camera anywhere at all - just two tiny set screws. I've seen several cameras with damaged silvering on the top or the front face of the prism, where it's seated in its "cradle", which causes a black line in the viewfinder. This happens very easily because the special orange prism-cushioning foam is nearly always perished after 40+ years. Even if you don't damage the prism, you're likely to get bits of foam on the top of the focus screen, and the prism has to be removed to clean it. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
|
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
Spotmatic wrote:
Peter, did you realize yourself you are replying to a 1,5 year old topic? _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
|
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mo wrote:
Better late than never _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 1:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
Peter, did you realize yourself you are replying to a 1,5 year old topic? |
Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, I did realise, but it's not a problem, is it? I hadn't seen Ryan's message until now and I feel my reply is important to anyone searching for information about their jammed Spotmatic. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
|
Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
Scheimpflug wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
but it's not a problem, is it? |
Certainly not a problem!
Anyone looking for info in a search is going to find this thread, so the warnings about potential damage (especially easily-preventable self-inflicted damage!) are appreciated!
The real question though... which has us puzzled... What made you re-read this thread again after so long?
Has your Spotmatic re-jammed? You know that things have come full-circle when you need to fix something, and the best repair guide you can find is one that you yourself wrote several years ago. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote: |
The real question though... which has us puzzled... What made you re-read this thread again after so long? |
Aha!
Well, the answer is that when Attila explained how to use Quick search the other day, I tested it using "jammed" to see if it would find this thread. The ordinary search didn't find it when I tried a few weeks ago. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Yebisu
Joined: 13 Feb 2011 Posts: 1299
|
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yebisu wrote:
Well I'm glad this thread got resurrected because I just found a jammed spotmatic with 55/1.8 in a recycle shop for about 10 dollars. I'm gonna go back and buy it and see if I can un-jam it. Thanks Peter. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
Cool. This thread began long before I was a member here, so I'm glad it got resurrected. Yebisu, let us know how things turn out for you.
And, yep, next time I see a "jammed" Spotmatic, I'm liable to go for it. I wonder, since the K-1000 and KX are really just Spotmatics with K-mounts -- or so I've read -- will this same thing work with them? I know the mirror-up trick works with my KX, same as Spotmatics, although it's not all that reliable. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
Yebisu wrote: |
Well I'm glad this thread got resurrected because I just found a jammed spotmatic with 55/1.8 in a recycle shop for about 10 dollars. I'm gonna go back and buy it and see if I can un-jam it. Thanks Peter. |
Good luck with it Yebisu! There are other possible reasons why the mechanism jams, but they are nearly always due to poor lubrication in my experience. The important thing to understand is that the film advance, double exposure interlock, mirror cocking and the shutter curtains all operate like falling dominoes, in that one action sets off the next. If one of them is sticky then the interlock is not reset as the 2nd curtain closes and the camera seems as if it's "jammed".
Michael, I don't know about the K1000 and KX but the mechanism of my K2 is completely different to the Spotmatic. It's never jammed so I haven't investigated it, however all manual SLRs work on this chain reaction principle, and a touch of lubrication in the right place is generally the cure. My Chinon CE-3 kept "jamming" when I first got it, but a little oil soon cured it. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:20 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
Hey Peter,
The K2 is a completely different animal. It's more closely related to the Spotmatic ES II than to anything else from the early era, being electronically controlled, but even more so than the ES II. Maybe this is why your K2 has never jammed, and is likely never to do so. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jpbturbo
Joined: 24 Oct 2011 Posts: 2 Location: NC
|
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:50 pm Post subject: Thank You!!! |
|
|
jpbturbo wrote:
Thank You!
I just revived my Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic last night with this trick.
I inherited my spotmatic from my mom who passed away a few years ago.
She had puchased it new at some point in the 60's and was a quite capable photographer and had her on B&W darkroom for a number of years.
Someday I hope to be able to go through and scan her photos but for now I'm far enough behind on digitizing my own work.
My pentax is my favorite camera for somewhat sentimental reasons but I've also been happy with the lens and exposure I get with it.
Thanks,
Josh |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:23 pm Post subject: Re: Thank You!!! |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
jpbturbo wrote: |
Thank You!
I just revived my Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic last night with this trick. |
Well done Josh! Nice of you to let me know.
I just discovered I've deleted the pictures from my server but you seem to have managed OK without them. If it ever happens again, a tiny spot of Vaseline on that arm that catches the spring would be a good idea, to assist the spring to slide off it. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jpbturbo
Joined: 24 Oct 2011 Posts: 2 Location: NC
|
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: Thank You!!! |
|
|
jpbturbo wrote:
As soon as I read the description I knew what it was as I had been under the hood of this spotmatic fairly recently.
A while back I was shooting my only roll ever of Kodachrome through it and the mirror became stuck in the up position not allowing me to see what I was shooting or metering.
With the lens pointing away there is a little arm mounted on top of a small black(in my case anyways) gear that has a little peg that protrudes from the flat surface of the gear.
The little arm has a section that is bent at a right angle that is supposed to be hit by the peg as the gear rotates around.
Merely lubing the pivot points didn't seem to help enough for it to consistently lower the mirror so I ended up removing the tiny C-clip that holds the arm on the pivot and taking a pair of pliers and ever so slightly bending it back so it was a true 90 degree angle.
Now when the gear rotates the peg makes a more noticeable contact with the arm at the end of it's travel and the mirror always returns to it's lower position.
Anyways,
Now that it's fixed for the second time I'm scouring the internet and my local classifieds for some more lenses.
-Josh |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Sarah101
Joined: 29 Jan 2012 Posts: 6 Location: United States
|
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
Sarah101 wrote:
Hey I think this is exactly whats happening to my Pentax Spotmatic right now!
Just what do you mean by 'Remove the bottom plate', does this mean to actually screw off the silver bottom?
It might seem like a stupid question, but im asking it.
Thanks _________________ Sarah |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|