Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!
SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

Is a Kodak Medalist or Medalist II worth having?
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Film Rangefinder / Viewfinder Cameras
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 120 in medalist ? Reply with quote
gmonkman1 wrote:
hi ya
somewhere along the internet way I read about people using a nail clipper to remove part of the spool ends on 120 film so that it fits the chamber of 620 cameras. Seems like they had good results so maybe that is worth a try.


Depends on the camera and how tight the film chamber is. It won't work on a Medalist, and I ain't gonna try! I did so with a Duaflex, it worked, but maybe I didn't clip enough - the wind got extremely tight, I got blisters on my fingers till I took pliers to the knob.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 120 in medalist ? Reply with quote
Nesster wrote:
gmonkman1 wrote:
hi ya
somewhere along the internet way I read about people using a nail clipper to remove part of the spool ends on 120 film so that it fits the chamber of 620 cameras. Seems like they had good results so maybe that is worth a try.


Depends on the camera and how tight the film chamber is. It won't work on a Medalist, and I ain't gonna try! I did so with a Duaflex, it worked, but maybe I didn't clip enough - the wind got extremely tight, I got blisters on my fingers till I took pliers to the knob.


I've also seen suggestions of turning it down on a lathe instead of using nail clippers! Sheesh!!! Rather draconian measure there. Respooling looks and sounds safer to me. Surprised Smile


PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
For what its worth -

The nail-clipper method works just fine on the Kodak Vollendas (Nagel-made 6x9) and Duos (Nagel-made 4.5x6)


PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
luisalegria wrote:
For what its worth -

The nail-clipper method works just fine on the Kodak Vollendas (Nagel-made 6x9) and Duos (Nagel-made 4.5x6)


I may try that on the Medalist just to see how much trouble it is...Actually the lathe method might work. Just need to wait and see what the actual dimensions are and need to be.


PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
This guy will do the conversion but it's not cheap:
http://www.baldmtn.com/Convert.htm

He can also just convert one side which is a lot less.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
This guy will do the conversion but it's not cheap:
http://www.baldmtn.com/Convert.htm

He can also just convert one side which is a lot less.


Bald Mountain is the place to go for the conversion or just to have one CLA'd. Right now I'll either clip the spool or re-spool. Save my money for the conversion later.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have a Medalist II, though haven't used it in a while.

Clipping the 120 spools alone won't work as the spool ends are still too thick to fit. This is true of many 620 cameras.

But, clipping and sanding down the spool ends works.

Here is my conversion of 120 --> 620 done with a Dremel tool sanding attachment and tin snips. It took about 2 minutes.




I was thinking of buying one of those mini disc sanders which should make the job one-minute or less per roll including the snipping. No need to mess with re-spooling.

The altered roll drops right into the Medalist. I use a 620 spool on the take-up side.



When Kodak invented their 620 film gimmick the film spools in those days were made of metal which made it more difficult to alter them. But, they've long since changed over to plastic spools which are easy to cut and sand. So, there's really no need to re-spool unless you prefer doing it that way.

Just be sure to brush and/or blow off any loose bits before loading into the camera to keep the film chamber clean.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
I have a Medalist II, though haven't used it in a while.

Clipping the 120 spools alone won't work as the spool ends are still too thick to fit. This is true of many 620 cameras.

But, clipping and sanding down the spool ends works.

Here is my conversion of 120 --> 620 done with a Dremel tool sanding attachment and tin snips. It took about 2 minutes.




I was thinking of buying one of those mini disc sanders which should make the job one-minute or less per roll including the snipping. No need to mess with re-spooling.

The altered roll drops right into the Medalist. I use a 620 spool on the take-up side.



When Kodak invented their 620 film gimmick the film spools in those days were made of metal which made it more difficult to alter them. But, they've long since changed over to plastic spools which are easy to cut and sand. So, there's really no need to re-spool unless you prefer doing it that way.

Just be sure to brush and/or blow off any loose bits before loading into the camera to keep the film chamber clean.


I plan on using my disc sander attachment on my Shop Smith Mark 5. Much quicker and neater than a dremel. Thanks for the info and the photos.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Big Dawg wrote:

I plan on using my disc sander attachment on my Shop Smith Mark 5. Much quicker and neater than a dremel. Thanks for the info and the photos.


There you go! Wink


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
Big Dawg wrote:

I plan on using my disc sander attachment on my Shop Smith Mark 5. Much quicker and neater than a dremel. Thanks for the info and the photos.


There you go! Wink


We'll see. I got the Medalist today (Heavy sucker)but no spools....Oh well. Here we go again. Ebay to the rescue and patience on my part and I'll soon be shooting! Very Happy


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
But, clipping and sanding down the spool ends works.
...
Just be sure to brush and/or blow off any loose bits before loading into the camera to keep the film chamber clean.


Personally, I wouldn't use this technique. Embarassed

After grinding down the spool ends, you will undoubtedly end up with dust between the spool and the film, or under the backing paper. In this case, the dust will not only be plastic dust, but also fine abrasives from the sandpaper or grinding disc.

Dust travels, and will end up in all sorts of unintended places. It could scratch film, it could gunk up shutters, get into the lens, etc, etc, etc. It could even contaminate developing chemicals. With all of the effort and expense people go through to keep camera equipment clean, why introduce dust when there is an alternative?


Considering the cost of the single-side conversion of the camera, verses the risks of the dust and the costs of the eventual CLA, it seems like a false economy to use 120 film in this way. For low-volume shooting, re-spooling seems a better option (safer and with only a little more time required), and for medium to high volume shooting, the single-side spool conversion would more than pay for itself in time/convenience.


Just my opinion of course. Wink


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Scheimpflug wrote:

After grinding down the spool ends, you will undoubtedly end up with dust between the spool and the film, or under the backing paper.


If this is a concern the roll can be taped up first and then the tape removed
before loading. But, I don't really see it as much of a danger. The rolls are
tightly wound and I've never seen any evidence of dust contamination from
doing this (if the rolls are brushed off before loading as I advised).


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote:

After grinding down the spool ends, you will undoubtedly end up with dust between the spool and the film, or under the backing paper.


If this is a concern the roll can be taped up first and then the tape removed
before loading. But, I don't really see it as much of a danger. The rolls are
tightly wound and I've never seen any evidence of dust contamination from
doing this (if the rolls are brushed off before loading as I advised).


I will use this for a while but eventually I'll do the one or two sided conversion. This should tide me over till I get the money saved for the conversion.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
We go through trouble and expense to keep things clean ?
This we is certainly not me.

All this filthy old gear, plus the repair and conversion work going on around here means I have chronic dust- metal filings, wood and plastic sawdust, just plain grime. And I basically do and keep everything in my garden shed. It doesn't seem to affect results from 35mm and 120 film.

I doubt much if any of that dust from the 120 film filing operation will get into either the film or the camera. And there are damp rags plus dust-off as well.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
luisalegria wrote:
We go through trouble and expense to keep things clean ?
This we is certainly not me.

All this filthy old gear, plus the repair and conversion work going on around here means I have chronic dust- metal filings, wood and plastic sawdust, just plain grime. And I basically do and keep everything in my garden shed. It doesn't seem to affect results from 35mm and 120 film.

I doubt much if any of that dust from the 120 film filing operation will get into either the film or the camera. And there are damp rags plus dust-off as well.


You are sounding more like me everytime I see you make a post like this. I am far from tidy...just ask the wife....No..no you better not do that. LOL

Any way a light blowing and a swiffer dust cloth and it will clean up alright I believe.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Really, if dust is a concern you can wrap a strip of masking tape (like
painters use) along each edge of the film plus stuff a bit of tissue (or similar)
into each spool end slot before sanding.

Then, after sanding, remove and brush off. It's not a big deal.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
It's not a big deal.


I agree. I'll have to do some trial and error testing but not a big deal.

I ordered 3 metal spools as this camera had none at all. I also cleared it with http://www.120processing.com/ . They will return the spools. Patience...Patience...I will shoot with it soon. Patience I keep saying!!


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
^ That's good that they return the spools. They're selling for ... what? Five
bucks apiece or something like that?

Reusing an altered roll for take-up probably wouldn't work because of the
different shape of the end slots. That's why I use a real 620 spool for that.
But, I'm sure you know that.

I usually shoot B&W and process myself so no problem there. The roll in
my photos was done for a friend who wanted color.

Kodak made an adapter for the Medalist allowing the use of 828 film in it but
that's an almost comical waste of the cameras capability.

Now, a 127 film adapter might be something to consider ...


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
^ That's good that they return the spools. They're selling for ... what? Five
bucks apiece or something like that?

Reusing an altered roll for take-up probably wouldn't work because of the
different shape of the end slots. That's why I use a real 620 spool for that.
But, I'm sure you know that.

I usually shoot B&W and process myself so no problem there. The roll in
my photos was done for a friend who wanted color.

Kodak made an adapter for the Medalist allowing the use of 828 film in it but
that's an almost comical waste of the cameras capability.

Now, a 127 film adapter might be something to consider ...


That's all for the future. Right now I just need a spool (three on the way) and some film to shoot. May try some Portra or Fuji Color Reala and see what comes about. Will buy some Fomo later but right now I have Tri-x to shoot so that will be the trial load to see if everything functions or if I need to send it for CLA'ing.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Re getting 620 spools - finding old Kodak box/folder point and shoots sometimes gets you the spool cheaper than buying one outright. And now that I'm looking at it, the pre-spooled film B&H etc sell may not be a totally bad deal, for the reusable spool. Although, I've read that some of the respooled film is using some modern version of the 620 spool...

I plan to do respooling tonight, myself, provided I can still find my stash of spools Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nesster wrote:
Re getting 620 spools - finding old Kodak box/folder point and shoots sometimes gets you the spool cheaper than buying one outright. And now that I'm looking at it, the pre-spooled film B&H etc sell may not be a totally bad deal, for the reusable spool. Although, I've read that some of the respooled film is using some modern version of the 620 spool...

I plan to do respooling tonight, myself, provided I can still find my stash of spools Rolling Eyes


If you can't find them let me know. I'll send you one of mine when I get them!!! LOL


PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
I'm just surprised someone hasn't made a re-spooler.


Can you find a camera that can use both 620 and 120 spools? Just put the 620 size in the take-up side? I remember reading the "Foldex" can do this. I don't know that much about it. Sorry if someone mentioned it already too. Just thought I would pass on. Maybe it won't work...

Edit: I guess people have a lot of problems with this method. But it works for some.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
^ There are a few cameras that can handle both types. I've never tried
this. I am skeptical that it would work very well. It sounds reasonable but
first of all you'd have to run the film one way and then switch the rolls and
run it back again. The problem is the film is only taped to the backing paper
at one end and not the other. When you try to run the film back on the
return trip you can only attach the backing paper to the take-up spool so
when you wind it back and the film arrives at the take-up spool it's not
attached to the backing paper at that end and will likely separate from the
paper rather than go onto the spool.

But, again, I've never tried it.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
themoleman342 wrote:
Quote:
I'm just surprised someone hasn't made a re-spooler.


Can you find a camera that can use both 620 and 120 spools? Just put the 620 size in the take-up side? I remember reading the "Foldex" can do this. I don't know that much about it. Sorry if someone mentioned it already too. Just thought I would pass on. Maybe it won't work...

Edit: I guess people have a lot of problems with this method. But it works for some.


I've seen a 120 roll being used on a plastic Brownie Hawkeye. I think I'll just do the clipping and sanding.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
dof wrote:
^ There are a few cameras that can handle both types. I've never tried
this. I am skeptical that it would work very well. It sounds reasonable but
first of all you'd have to run the film one way and then switch the rolls and
run it back again. The problem is the film is only taped to the backing paper
at one end and not the other. When you try to run the film back on the
return trip you can only attach the backing paper to the take-up spool so
when you wind it back and the film arrives at the take-up spool it's not
attached to the backing paper at that end and will likely separate from the
paper rather than go onto the spool.

But, again, I've never tried it.


I've noticed several remove and re-attach the tape to avoid getting a bump in the spooled film. Not possible when in another camera for re-spooling.
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Film Rangefinder / Viewfinder Cameras
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2