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adityap
Joined: 11 Aug 2010 Posts: 51 Location: Pune, India
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:13 am Post subject: DIY Lens storage box |
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adityap wrote:
Hi,
India being hot and humid I decided to build myself one of these, the other reason is that I love DIY and also working with tools.
This is the rough plan I have in mind, any suggestions, ideas are most welcome. I have no prior knowledge about storing lenses so any help from senior members will be a boon
Dimensions will be ~ 24x24x18 inches. Wood on the bottom and three sides with one side of thick plexiglass through which i can see the lenses as well as a digital hygrometer. Top will be wood on a hinge.
Is the side fan for ventilation a good idea? And what if I kept a pouch of calcium chloride inside as well?
C&C please!
TIA
Edit - thanks to Scheimpflug, have dropped the idea of the calcium chloride and the hygrometer
Last edited by adityap on Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:21 am; edited 1 time in total |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:36 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Nice idea!!
This is my solution so far as Australia is hot and humid as well especially since summer is coming up.
#1 Plastic boxes...I have just recently drilled some holes for ventilation.
#2 I need more boxes and a proper shelving system...my lenses are growing.
#3 Old film canisters for the silica crystals...although I am still trying to work out the amount I need per box as I have to change/reactivate these at least every 2 weeks....rain and bad house design.
I would really like to see what you can come up with,as this is very important to me as no use buying the gear if I can not protect it. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:02 am Post subject: Re: DIY Lens storage box |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
adityap wrote: |
India being hot and humid I decided to build myself one of these, the other reason is that I love DIY and also working with tools. |
Sounds like a good enough reason!
The only questions I would have:
- Is the desiccant going to do any good in a ventilated container?
- If ventilated and with a fan, wouldn't the hygrometer just measure the ambient humidity?
- Would the light and fan run continuously? (ie: how much will this cost on your electric bill?) _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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adityap
Joined: 11 Aug 2010 Posts: 51 Location: Pune, India
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:19 am Post subject: |
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adityap wrote:
@mo, thats a nifty solution you have there! loved the idea
@Scheimpflug, thanks! Both your points are valid, so the desiccant and hygrometer ideas are dropped.
Re. the electricity cost, one of my earlier hobbies was aquariums and I had a reef tank as well as a planted tank with metal halides, compared to that this 40w bulb will not be a big deal . Considering the current rates for 1 kw here in india it will work out to roughly to ~$5 per month.
I believe I will have to keep the bulb on 24/7? Cuz if I switch it off the swing in humidity will be a problem? |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:26 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
On second thought, you might want to get the desiccant and hygrometer anyway. It would make a great comparison to see what the humidity difference is between [un-vented + desiccant] vs [vented + heat]. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I store lenses on that way what MO showed, + every box have own humidity meter. I use taller boxes and store lenses in three rows separated by small plastic boxes. All boxes contains humidity remover 0,5kg material in each this is help to keep 25-45 % humidity all time. No ventilation, no extra light based on 4-5 yrs experience it is fine , safe solution. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11028 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Wintertime here can be very humid, 99% or more, it rains so much! I use airtight waterproof Pelican cases with renewable silica gel to absorb humidity, and inexpensive digital hydrometer/temperature monitor with high/low memory feature. My system uses three storage areas: one for long term storage, one for items used more frequently, and one for drying items fresh from field before placement in the other two. The third is not necessary; only to reduce frequency of silica gel renewal in the first two.
I am not familiar with lens storage in tropical humidity. Maybe others here living in tropics will have better ideas, however I believe the principles are the same:
1. low humidity keeps fungus from growing.
2. prevent dust to deny fungus a home base to grow.
There can be no denying dust and fungus are everywhere.
Humidity condenses on surfaces colder than ambient air temperature. Warm air has more humidity capacity than cold air. Preventing condensation is paramount in preventing fungus growth.
Prevent condensation by sealing camera and lenses inside a plastic bag before moving camera and lenses from cooler temperature into warmer, then allow enough time for contents to warm before unsealing. In my climate this means sealing before bringing indoors; in warm climate with air cooler inside, this means sealing before bringing outdoors. In cold environment avoid placing cold items inside warm coat, because bodies produce much humidity!
The idea behind light bulb for heating storage container is twofold. Air expands when heated, reducing its humidity. Storing items in slightly warmer air than environment prevents condensation when they are removed, however, notice that condensation can occur when moving from cooler environment into warmer storage. Not recommended in my opinion! Also, 40W is far too much heat for such a small container.
Air flow also prevents fungus growth, however this creates the problems of keeping the flowing air free of dust and humidity. A fan to circulate only the air within the container seems like a good idea, whereas ventilation holes in container create the problems. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
This is an old problem that makes every collector really nervous.
We also have summers with 90% r.h.. In winter it's not that bad and the central heating takes down humidity as well.
In my study where I store my lenses, I have about 30-40% r.h. in winter and 50-60% r.h. summer.
I have my lenses in a cabinet with some chemical dehumidifier and two lamps, a normal one and a UV one. Nothing has ever happened with fungus in there.
Fungus needs
1. high humidity
2. nutrition
3. calm air
4. darkness
Fungus spawn is almost everywhere, so you need to avoid one (if possible more) of these elements and you're fine. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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cheve
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 182
Expire: 2011-12-06
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:28 am Post subject: |
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cheve wrote:
i use air-tight plastic jar(the type for food stuff) plus silicon gel.
question:what happen when/if the fan stops working for extended period of time? _________________ Adaptall-2: 17/3.5(51B),80-210/3.8-4(103A),60-300/3.8-5.4(23A) C/Y: CZ 35-70/3.4,RMC Tokian 80-200/4.5
EXk: Topcor Re Auto 35/2.8(broken),135/3.5, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5 Leitz-R: 50/2,90/2,180/4,180/3.4,Angenieux 35-70/2.5-3.3
M42: pentacon 135/2.8,135/2.8(preset),Super-Takumar 55/1.8,Meyer-Optik 50/1.8 FD: Voigtlander 125/2.5 SL
K: smc 50/1.2, porst 55/1.2, Takumar(Bayonet) 135/2.5 Minolta: rokker 58/1.4,58/1.2 nikkon: Nikkor H Auto 300/4.5
OM: 21/2,21/3.5,28/3.5,50/1.2,300/4.5,500/8,35-70/3.6, viv 17/3.5,viv 28/1.9,viv 135/2.3
Rollei: Voigtlander Color-Ultron 55/1.4 AR T: Tele-Astranar 135/3.5
EF: 30/1.4(Sigma),50/1.8,28-70L,80-200L,24-105L,70-300DO,18-200OS(Sigma)
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:45 am Post subject: Re: DIY Lens storage box |
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walter g wrote:
adityap wrote: |
Hi,
India being hot and humid I decided to build myself one of these, the other reason is that I love DIY and also working with tools.
This is the rough plan I have in mind, any suggestions, ideas are most welcome. I have no prior knowledge about storing lenses so any help from senior members will be a boon
Dimensions will be ~ 24x24x18 inches. Wood on the bottom and three sides with one side of thick plexiglass through which i can see the lenses as well as a digital hygrometer. Top will be wood on a hinge.
Is the side fan for ventilation a good idea? And what if I kept a pouch of calcium chloride inside as well?
C&C please!
TIA
Edit - thanks to Scheimpflug, have dropped the idea of the calcium chloride and the hygrometer |
I see multiple problems with this design.
1) Check the humidity in the wood, before you use. Preferably seal the wood when the humidity is low.
2) You have ventilition holes in the bottom sides to let the heat out. Why?
3) Is there holes in the plexi. to let the heat rise to where the lenses are?
4) If your fan is a pusher you're pushing dust and humid air right across your lenses.
5) If your fan is a puller. You're pulling humid air and dust across your lenses because of the top holes.
I'm not trying to be over critical. I'd just hate to see you ruin your lenses. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:22 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I added the ventilation holes (approx a row of 4 small holes on the front) to some of the boxes, as to my horror when checking my lenses recently I saw that fungus had started to grow inside some of the lenses.
Now that could have been because I mixed the lenses with other already fungusized (not sure if this is a word but you get my meaning) lenses..
I don't have a humidity reader in them as yet as I have not found any around my area.
Attila do you check your lenses regularly?
I have strong condensation problems in this house you can see the water on the windows in the morning....and dust is a pain.Sounds like I am living in the anti camera equipment house..
I am looking at different solutions...such as a proper humidity cabinet which to hold all my treasures would be a lot of money.or try to build my own like adityap
This is a site that provides dry cabinets in Oz,they have some good designs.
http://www.drycabinet.com.au/main.html _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:14 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I live in an old cottage where dampness is always threatening. I keep 3 dehumidifiers running whenever the windows are not open (Sept-May). My lenses are stored in a plastic box with 2 rechargeable gel packs.
I used to store them with lens caps off but I worry too much about the elements getting damaged. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:09 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
It's a hard life using cameras/lenses so many worries I worry about the same thing so put little obstacles between each lens
@martinsmith99
What brand of dehumidifier? Any details as I would like to see what works and what does not,and try and find the best cheap solution that works.
Thanks _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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adityap
Joined: 11 Aug 2010 Posts: 51 Location: Pune, India
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Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:15 am Post subject: Re: DIY Lens storage box |
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adityap wrote:
walter g wrote: |
I see multiple problems with this design.
1) Check the humidity in the wood, before you use. Preferably seal the wood when the humidity is low.
2) You have ventilition holes in the bottom sides to let the heat out. Why?
3) Is there holes in the plexi. to let the heat rise to where the lenses are?
4) If your fan is a pusher you're pushing dust and humid air right across your lenses.
5) If your fan is a puller. You're pulling humid air and dust across your lenses because of the top holes.
I'm not trying to be over critical. I'd just hate to see you ruin your lenses. |
Thanks for the detailed replies Walter! And as I said earlier, I am totally ignorant about this field hence any thing you guys think is right I will implement in the design. So -
1) seal the wood as in, should i paint/polish it? or seal it with coats of lacquer?
2)That will be remedied, no holes in the bottom section.
3)Will make holes in the plexi to let the heat enter the upper section as well.
4)So do you think I should ditch the fan idea all together? |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:02 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
@mo - I have had a few over the years and they all do what they're supposed to. I would recommend everyone keep them in their `lens room'. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:12 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Sorry i missed your post.
1) Your choice of finish your just trying to seal the wood.
4) Fan is optional if used properly. I think it would work fine as a puller in the spot in your drawing. If you got rid of the holes in the top, and used the bottom holes like in your drawing, but only one hole.
It should let in fresh air that would be heated and dried before it got to the lenses.
You could do a smaller mockup out of cardboard and a small electronics fan to see if the design works properly.
Martin brings up a very good point.
I keep my lenses in my lens room. It just happens to be my bedroom also. But it's an easy room to control moisture. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:16 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
I also wanted to add this link. I use one,but a diffferent version where I keep my lenses.
http://forum.mflenses.com/hygrometer-to-control-humidity-in-lens-storage-boxes-t31944.html _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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adityap
Joined: 11 Aug 2010 Posts: 51 Location: Pune, India
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:45 am Post subject: |
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adityap wrote:
So it's finally complete
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ajaikumarr
Joined: 10 Jan 2011 Posts: 2 Location: Coimbatore - Tamil Nadu
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:10 am Post subject: |
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ajaikumarr wrote:
Seems nice initiative... BTW, how are you going to monitor humidity and do you have any kind of mechanism for cut off power when it reaches above limit? AFAIK, you may find varying humidity in Summer & Winter (even nowadays you can see varying weather climate in a single day)?
I am also having an idea of trying the same with Thermostat (as basically Aquarium guy and used aquarium heater quite lot)... Yet to find out the options... Or may be UV light + some kind of cut off option...
Any sugessions in this... _________________ Ajai |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:17 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
adityap wrote: |
So it's finally complete
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I missed this thread when it was first started back in August. I saw one potential problem right away that could be serious for your lenses.
I have a background in guitar building, and there is a popular side-bending machine that uses incandescent light bulbs as the heat source for bending the wood. Just regular old incandescent light bulbs can get the inside of an enclosed box hot! You may be okay running low wattage bulbs, but to be on the safe side, in addition to a hygrometer, I'd also recommend you install a thermometer. You don't want your lenses getting so hot that the lubricant runs and coats the aperture blades.
If you've got good ventilation, you'll probably be okay. But as it gets hot there in the summer, it may be even hotter inside your box with that incandescent lighting. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
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My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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adityap
Joined: 11 Aug 2010 Posts: 51 Location: Pune, India
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:40 am Post subject: |
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adityap wrote:
Thanks for the tip michael. I had planned on using incandescent bulbs earlier but have switched to two 18w T8 tubes of different color temperatures.
The incandescent bulbs were getting too hot. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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