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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:08 am Post subject: CZJ 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar (stupid?) cleaning idea |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Guys (and Gals of course!),
I have a Pancolar 80mm f/1.8 here from another forum member. This one has the recurring problem that the diaphragm blades get sticky, even after cleaning (the blades have never been removed though;).
Now, I want to do it the easy way (i.e. not remove the blades). The Pancolar is very easy to dismantle: the rear and front groups can be removed without effort, leaving the focusing helicoid and diaphragm behind as one piece. So I was thinking... How smart/stupid would it be to dunk the whole piece in a bath of pure naphta to clean EVERYTHING? Yes, this will also dissolve the focusing grease, but the helicoid is easy to reach without dismantling (relubing is easy) so I think it should be possible? The Pancolar does not have a rubber focusing ring, there's only metal.
What do you think? Stupid/good idea??? _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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pich900
Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Posts: 1745 Location: The Netherlands/Zwolle
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:19 am Post subject: |
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pich900 wrote:
Well I don't know if it's a stupid idea but I do know one thing, don't let me know if you decided to do it, I still want to sleep in peace ....
Hope you get good advises ! |
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std
Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:21 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
We have a very good repairman here. he can do it for 10 -15 eur.
if you want you can send it to me and i will return it when it's ready. |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:28 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
pich900 wrote: |
Well I don't know if it's a stupid idea but I do know one thing, don't let me know if you decided to do it, I still want to sleep in peace ....
Hope you get good advises ! |
Of course, I will take utmost care of it because it's not my lens... So I think it was a good idea to ask some advice here. I still think it can be done because there's nothing inside that can break/get damaged by putting it in a bath of naphta.
Thanks for the suggestion of sending it to Bulgaria! It's not my lens though so I will leave the decision to Pich900. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16639 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:10 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
I know that this procedure is done with mechanical shutters to get all the old grease/oil out without having to take that very complicated mechanic apart. Then later only very few known parts get a little oil if needed.
It may well work - but what makes you sure it is a oil/grease problem that that blades are getting stuck? It could well be a mechanical problem... _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5038 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:13 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
Of course, I will take utmost care of it because it's not my lens... So I think it was a good idea to ask some advice here. I still think it can be done because there's nothing inside that can break/get damaged by putting it in a bath of naphta. |
I did the same thing with my "Tele-Edixon" but used acetone. Aperture works now but it is slightly heavy and noisy. (Yes noisy, like schreeching metal.) _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:13 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Thanks for the information, Klaus!
kds315* wrote: |
It may well work - but what makes you sure it is a oil/grease problem that that blades are getting stuck? It could well be a mechanical problem... |
Because I cleaned this blades twice. After that it will work for a few weeks, but after that they will get stuck again. I guess the grease is in the area where the blades rest when the aperture is wide open (it's always stuck wide open). _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Of course, I will take utmost care of it because it's not my lens... So I think it was a good idea to ask some advice here. I still think it can be done because there's nothing inside that can break/get damaged by putting it in a bath of naphta. |
I did the same thing with my "Tele-Edixon" but used acetone. Aperture works now but it is slightly heavy and noisy. (Yes noisy, like schreeching metal.) |
Interesting. Did the acetone leave a residue on the blades or where does the screeching noise come from? _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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std
Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:17 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
It's a fine lens so don't trash it please . I personally would not take the risk of repairing it myself. So if you can't find a repairmen localy and don't mind to wait for some time and the extra shipping cost please let me know. The guy is very good and does mirracles |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5038 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
kansalliskala wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Of course, I will take utmost care of it because it's not my lens... So I think it was a good idea to ask some advice here. I still think it can be done because there's nothing inside that can break/get damaged by putting it in a bath of naphta. |
I did the same thing with my "Tele-Edixon" but used acetone. Aperture works now but it is slightly heavy and noisy. (Yes noisy, like schreeching metal.) |
Interesting. Did the acetone leave a residue on the blades or where does the screeching noise come from? |
It took the oil completely away. So it is just metal against metal. I think it got some of the black paint off also .. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:42 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
kansalliskala wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Of course, I will take utmost care of it because it's not my lens... So I think it was a good idea to ask some advice here. I still think it can be done because there's nothing inside that can break/get damaged by putting it in a bath of naphta. |
I did the same thing with my "Tele-Edixon" but used acetone. Aperture works now but it is slightly heavy and noisy. (Yes noisy, like schreeching metal.) |
Interesting. Did the acetone leave a residue on the blades or where does the screeching noise come from? |
It took the oil completely away. So it is just metal against metal. I think it got some of the black paint off also .. |
From the sound of it, and from what I've read on the web, it seems that Acetone certainly is NOT the way to go and that Naphta (lighter fluid) is a much better solvent. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5038 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:46 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
From the sound of it, and from what I've read on the web, it seems that Acetone certainly is NOT the way to go and that Naphta (lighter fluid) is a much better solvent. |
Probably because acetone is supposed to take the paint off too. Is there some oil in lighter fluid? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5038 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:51 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Even wikipedia says you should do it so don't hesitate.
Quote: |
Naphthas are also used in other applications such as:
# To remove from the aperture blades of camera lenses any oil which, if present, could slow the movement of the blades, leading to overexposure;
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_________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3242 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:01 pm Post subject: Re: CZJ 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar (stupid?) cleaning idea |
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Himself wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
Guys (and Gals of course!),
How smart/stupid would it be to dunk the whole piece in a bath of pure naphta to clean EVERYTHING? |
I did it. I mean immerse it into a bath of Naphta.
Slight improvement.
I finished by dismantling everything and cleaned the blades one by one. Dry them one by one.
Use cotton gloves.
It worked like a charm. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:08 pm Post subject: Re: CZJ 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar (stupid?) cleaning idea |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Himself wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Guys (and Gals of course!),
How smart/stupid would it be to dunk the whole piece in a bath of pure naphta to clean EVERYTHING? |
I did it. I mean immerse it into a bath of Naphta.
Slight improvement.
I finished by dismantling everything and cleaned the blades one by one. Dry them one by one.
Use cotton gloves.
It worked like a charm. |
Dismantling and cleaning them is one thing, but putting them together again another. Congratulations! _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:29 pm Post subject: Re: CZJ 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar (stupid?) cleaning idea |
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Attila wrote:
Himself wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Guys (and Gals of course!),
How smart/stupid would it be to dunk the whole piece in a bath of pure naphta to clean EVERYTHING? |
I did it. I mean immerse it into a bath of Naphta.
Slight improvement.
I finished by dismantling everything and cleaned the blades one by one. Dry them one by one.
Use cotton gloves.
It worked like a charm. |
Congrats!! Not an easy job at all. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10980 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Actually acetone is the stronger solvent, although much harsher, than naptha. Naptha is much milder, does not dissolve paint nearly as quickly, does not melt plastic, for example. Both are toxic, acetone is extremely toxic, both are easily absorbed by skin. Wear gloves, have adequate ventilation...check the MSDS before using either naptha or acetone! Acetone is typically very pure, evaporates completely, and leaves no residues. Light fluid is also very pure, but it will leave a residue on lens surface that is easily cleaned off with lens fluid.
Methyl alcohol (Eclipse) is also toxic, easily absorbed through skin contact, read the MSDS! _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
What don't you try to lubricate the blades with graphite ? Rub a black pencil on a file and apply the resulting fine powder on the blades. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10980 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Jieffe wrote: |
What don't you try to lubricate the blades with graphite ? Rub a black pencil on a file and apply the resulting fine powder on the blades. |
Tiny black specs spread to elements? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
siriusdogstar wrote: |
Tiny black specs spread to elements? |
I succesfully tried this method on a Tomioka 55mm (after 3 or 4 cleaning with naphta). You just apply a very small quantity of graphite with a fine brush. If you're careful enough, nothing will fall on the elements. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10980 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Jieffe wrote: |
siriusdogstar wrote: |
Tiny black specs spread to elements? |
I succesfully tried this method on a Tomioka 55mm (after 3 or 4 cleaning with naphta). You just apply a very small quantity of graphite with a fine brush. If you're careful enough, nothing will fall on the elements. |
Good to know, thanks! I was worrying about particles falling from the aperture during use. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:25 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Interesting ideas! I think I will try the "dunk in naphta" method first. I'll check back in this topic to let you all know my experiences _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:53 am Post subject: Re: CZJ 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar (stupid?) cleaning idea |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Himself wrote: |
I did it. I mean immerse it into a bath of Naphta.
Slight improvement.
I finished by dismantling everything and cleaned the blades one by one. Dry them one by one.
Use cotton gloves.
It worked like a charm. |
Based on your cleaning above, how much of the actual cleaning & contaminant removal do you think was accomplished by each of the two steps (immersion vs dismantled cleaning)?
For example, was it a case where the immersion did 80% of the cleaning and the dismantled cleaning took care of the remaining 20%? Or was it the other way around, or even 50/50? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3242 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
It doesn't matter.
30%, or 50% or 80%, it simply doesn't matter.
It will always be a difference between a perfectly snappy diaphragm and a 80% working one.
More than that there is a lot of time involved, especially in the first procedure, immersing the whole diaphragm into the bath.
That is, you let it there for at least 24 hours, dry it carefully with a hot air blower, put the lens together and voila! the bitch doesn't work 100%.
And then start dismantling again. Doing what? Bath or clean one by one?
I chose cleaning even if putting the blade together was a painful job. I have a lot of tweezers but I wouldn't touch those fragile things with a tweezers. They bend so easily.
I worked only with flat surfaces.
Of course the idea came after couple of hours, 2 whiskeys and 4 cigarettes ( worry not, I don't smoke inside the house). Did I mention the nervous trembling?
Anyway, I magnetized a Robertson bit, a long one, and I put the blade into the position, keeping it there with Q tip( there was a moment when I prayed for a third hand ).
But they wouldn't stay there, because they are so light, and the sill they are sitting on is so small, and there is a huge hole in the middle. Couple of more cigarettes, a whiskey and a hour later I came up with another solution:I cut off part of the wooden handle of the broom, I wrapped around it some gaffer tape until it fit the hole perfectly, coming through it, of course. Now the blade would stand still while I put them together, around that wooden thing.
Everything worked 100% not 80 or 50. |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Despite the comments above I just decided to give it a try (the "dunk in Naphta" method).
It looks it worked like a charm. I didn't just immerse it, but I opened and closed the diaphragm over and over again while immersed. I did the same with the focusing helicoid. The lens appeared to be very dirty inside.
After this treatment I also had to regrease the helicoid. This worked well too.
Before cleaning, look at the dirty blades:
Immersed:
After cleaning:
A lot of thrash came from the inside...
The diaphragm is clean now...
The first shot at f/8
_________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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