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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:45 am Post subject: The role of hoods on a lens. |
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newton wrote:
An "expert" at a local camera store, which is quite large and and all over the country, once told me that hoods make no difference in IQ.
I have actually wondered what the role played by hoods really is for longer vs. shorter to 'no' hoods on a short vs. longer vs. 'any' lens.
I have noticed that hoods do have an effect on the images captured, but what that effect or how small or large it is, I have no idea.
Also, why do so many older lenses come with pre-built-in hoods while the newer lenses do not. I could buy a few lenses for the price charged for one name brand hood. Why bother or should I? I am not talking about protecting the glass because that is obvious, if at all, or is this some marketing gimmick?
Last edited by newton on Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:24 pm; edited 5 times in total |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:55 am Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
Stray light might cause flare and reduce the image contrast. A hood will block off some of this stray light. It's a bit like using your hand to shield your eyes from the sun.
Some lenses have superb coatings and are blackened on the inside of the lens barrel, making them almost immune to stray light causing flare. So depending on the lens, the hood will have a more or less significant influence on picture contrast. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:58 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
hood make a difference against the sun, this is true even for the best lenses
a good lens without hood is better than a standard lens with hood
if you don't have a hood, you can do the job with your hand
when I use hood, it is to protect the glass
if I don't have a hood, I envelop the front glass with my hand in crowed place
one of the main reason I don't use hood is that my bag is too small
when I take the bigger bag, I always carry some hood
China metal hood are cheap and it is clever to use them
p.s. : I see an improvement in your style _________________ T* |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
Hi Newton!
Lens hoods work. They make more of a difference with uncoated or indifferently-well coated lenses than with high efficiency multi-layer coated ones. They work better with long lenses than wide angles, and they work best of all when they're actually designed to use the maximum length and minimum diameter for the lens they're going to be used on.
What do they do? They keep the rain off so you don't get droplets on the front element. They reduce flare under most circumstances and, to some extent, internal reflections. But that can only apply to light sources outside the field of view - if you include the sun in the picture, for example, a lens hood can't do anything to mitigate the problems that causes. The result is largely the benefit of higher contrast which adds punch to our pictures.
But, a hood on a super-wide angle lens can't exclude much extraneous light. Even the petal shaped ones can't do a lot to help. And a short hood on a long lens will only do a fraction of the job a longer one will. On a zoom lens, the hood is usually optimised for the shortest focal length, so it's unavoidably compromised in its efficiency at longer ones.
Modern multi coatings might justify the designers of lens mountings leaving hoods off, but leaving them off also reduces costs which helps to increase profits . . . and if you can sell a separate hood (Hello! Messrs Leica and Zeiss) that adds further to profitability.
Your "expert" is - strictly speaking - talking rubbish. But, in some cases there's a smattering of truth is what he says. It's an easy job to put his assertion to the test, isn't it? _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
The two usually overlooked benefits of the hood: 1) keeps off rain etc as scsambrook says and 2) reduces veiling flare - this isn't the type of thing we usually think of with the term 'flare'. It is caused by off-axis light glancing the surface of the front element, which reduces contrast. What you ideally want, even with the best coated lens, is to keep the front element itself in shade. To the degree even a short hood does this, one is ahead. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Okay thanks. I have a few questions that come out of this.
1. What is better? multi-coated + lens hood or multi-coated alone or lens hood alone? I am sure each have its unique properties and advantages and each detracts in some ways from IQ.
2. Why do the newer lens hoods come in a tulip or flower pattern while the older lens hoods were almost always complete cones or cylinders?
a. Should I use a tulip hood on an older lens? (silly question)
b. Should I use a cylindrical or conical lens hood on a newer style lens?
If tulip hoods allow for more field of view and compensate for vignetting, stray light, flare, ... then that would mean that cylindrical hood designs on older lenses were a mistake, which I hardly believe is true, especially for the longer zooms. What is up with this design change?
3. How does one calculate exactly what the length and angle of view your new custom made / custom purchased lens hood should be so that everything is ideally kosher? Would a simple knowledge of angle of view and focal length be sufficient and if so how do all these come together in an equation, per se, or something like that?
a. If longer lenses typically benefit from lens hoods, then at what focal length can one stop using a lens hood, if at all. This seems like a strange conclusion, by the way.
b. Wouldn't most all lenses benefit from lens hoods?
4. For low light photography, wouldn't using a lens hood be detrimental as you would want as much light as possible, or would it actually be beneficial because you would be focusing more on the light that you need reflected back at hand, your subject.
Last edited by newton on Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:13 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: The role of hoods on a lens. |
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AhamB wrote:
newton wrote: |
An "expert" at a local camera store, which is quite large and and all over the country, once told me that hoods make no difference in IQ. |
True for most situations, except when you need one. When there are bright light sources in the frame or just outside the frame, even the most modern expensive lenses can flare. Using a hood WILL make a difference in IQ then.
Quote: |
I have actually wondered what the role played by hoods really is for longer vs. shorter to 'no' hoods on a short vs. longer vs. 'any' lens. |
With ultra-wideangles it's easy to have a bright light source striking the front lens without noticing it. The flares can look worse on the exposure than what you see in the viewfinder, because the sensor is very reflective and causes more reflections in the lens which end up on the sensor again.
With tele lenses you'll notice it much more quickly when there is a bright light source causing flare. I suppose it's because of the lens elements of a tele lens are quite flat that there are more reflections and therefore much more veiling flare than you'll see with a wideangle.
Quote: |
I have noticed that hoods do have an effect on the images captured, but what that effect or how small or large it is, I have no idea. |
Depends on the quality of the lens (coatings, construction, internal barrel blackening etc.) and the effectiveness of the hood, and the lighting situation of course. Using a hood just prevents loss of contrast due to (veiling) flare. Veiling flare is light that ends up in parts of the image where it shouldn't be, due to reflections in the lens. It's also called "false light" for this reason.
Quote: |
Also, why do so many older lenses come with pre-built-in hoods while the newer lenses do not. |
Built-in hoods are often smaller than detachable hoods. I'm not particularly keen on built-in ones, although they have an obvious advantage (you'll always have it with the lens).
One of the best references for the subject: http://toothwalker.org/optics/lenshood.html |
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
newton wrote: |
Okay thanks. I have a few questions that come out of this. |
1. Multi-coating+hood will be best of course. An lens with worse coatings with the best possible hood will still have more internal reflections (causing low contrast and color saturation), just not due to stray light reaching the lens.
2. This is answered in the reference I linked to in my previous post.
3. Maybe you'll find the answer in the reference.
a. It's not strange. WA lenses suffer less from veiling flare because it will be more localized. Imagine cropping and magnifying the part where the veiling flare is: that's what you'll see with a tele lens.
b. Yes, but for WA lenses it's mostly to prevent small colored flares/aperture spots.
4. Hoods block STRAY light. Non-image forming light that only reaches the sensor/film because of internal reflections. Low light scenes will have lower contrast when you don't use a hood. You can artificially lift the shadows this way, but it doesn't actually add any image information.[/quote]
Last edited by AhamB on Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:37 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Leica masters have used the large lens shade that they could find.
Somebody can ask why? One of them (excuse, I don´t remember the name) said more, or less, in one note at the Leica magazine in 1994/5.
1- The large lens shade, the better pic.
2- Except: very clare walls un the sun light or clear cloudy days.
When the light font and/or strong reflexions are IN the image
3- Protection of the lens, better than a crap filter. Any filter can affect the IQ, the adecuate shade, never.
4- Normal and/or tele lenses. All of them will be benmeficiate with the use of the adecuate shade. Not matter MC or SC.
5- Wide angle lenses. Not much effective, but the minimal reflexion that the shade can avoid, will be fine.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
What scsambrook said. Also, besides shielding from stray droplets and downpours, hoods provide physical protection against close encounters of the glass kind. I would have scraped numerous objectives if not for lens hoods. Even the cheap collapsible rubber hoods that I favor add a protective zone to the lens. THAT certainly maintains IQ, eh?
As for more short-term effects on IQ -- don't listen to sales droids. Watch pros. View some well-covered events and see what the press-corps fotogs have on their lenses. IMHO the tell-tale sign of a clueless newb is their big dSLR mounting a big kit.lens or upgrade, with no lens hood. Oh yeah, that's impressive... _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
RioRico wrote: |
View some well-covered events and see what the press-corps fotogs have on their lenses. |
I think photojournalists need the hoods more for protection than anything else. Studio and fine art photogs however will likely use a compendium hood, which give the best possible hood for each FL. |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3245 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
I use hoods most of the time. First move when I take the lens out of the bag is to put the hood on. Then I mount the lens and after that I remove the cap.
Even my Yashica ML 55/2.8 which has a recessed front element has a hood. _________________ Moderator Himself |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Another question is which lens shade to use?
Circular or Rectangular frame, flower pattrern one?
Metal, plastic or rubber one?
My preference ( I dont' shot with wide angle lenses, generaly) metal and circular one.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Smull
Joined: 02 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Paris
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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Smull wrote:
Very interesting topic. In fact, it brings another question : how long must hoods be and do that length change if shooting with APS-C? |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I use the 1.5x rule with aps-c.. in other words, a hood designed for a 50mm lens works well with a 35mm lens on an aps-c camera.
The tulip shaped hoods I think started off designed for zooms, where the wide end needed to be accommodated while not getting in the way at the long end.
The ventilated hoods started off for range finders where the hood gets into the viewfinder field. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
Nesster wrote: |
The tulip shaped hoods I think started off designed for zooms, where the wide end needed to be accommodated while not getting in the way at the long end. |
I don't think it has much to do with zooms. Petal/tulip hoods are just more effective because the "petals" extend further in the middle (so they don't cause vignetting in the corners). Just read the section about the hood shapes here: http://toothwalker.org/optics/lenshood.html
Regarding the choice of the hood material: plastic is probably best for shock absorption because it can flex. With a metal hood the lens will get a bigger shock when there is an impact on the hood (when dropping/bumping it against something). |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
In the lens shade world, there are some versions, another very good design, es that.
http://www.novacon.com.br/jupiter9_arquivos/image020.jpg
In the Novacon site, the sunshade is recomended for the J-9. But I saw that is similar design of the vented leica shade for the summicrons M series (that I used and it is very good)
A lot of options.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
AhamB wrote: |
Regarding the choice of the hood material: plastic is probably best for shock absorption because it can flex. With a metal hood the lens will get a bigger shock when there is an impact on the hood (when dropping/bumping it against something). |
Possibly... but which hood material is best sometimes depends on the impact.
For example, the plastic hoods might flex a bit, but they might also crack or shatter. This isn't necessarily bad, because it does dissipate energy, but it may not be enough. It also creates sharp pieces, which may do other damage. Plastic hoods could also strip their threads and pop out, and don't really offer much strength to maintain the circular shape of the lens filter theads.
Metal hoods can be a mixed bag as well. If a lens has a metal hood and is dropped squarely on its end, then the forces will be transferred directly to the lens with no effective "crumple zone". However, for a lens dropped at a 45-degree angle, the thin metal lens hood might provide quite a bit of sacrificial cushioning as it deforms. Importantly, unlike the plastic hood at its breaking point, the metal hood will continue to slow the impact as it deforms. The metal hood will also have better chances of staying in place on the lens, and keeping the filter ring on the lens from being dented.
Rubber lens hoods are another option, and one which again has mixed pros and cons. The collapsible type will not provide much protection for a forward impact, but might provide a fair amount for a side impact - especially if the hood is collapsed so that it is thicker. The non-collapsible hard rubber type hoods are my favorite, as they provide a progressive impact protection (like a metal hood), and will absorb a direct frontal hit as well (like a plastic hood), providing gentle rebound for soft bumps and a firm stop for hard drops. Rubber hoods also sometimes are bonded to a metal ring for the threads, which means they would give the same circular support to the lens filter threads.
If lens protection is your goal, and the hard rubber hoods are not available, another option would be to use a plastic hood, but to insert an "empty" metal filter ring (no glass) between the lens and the hood. This will provide a bit of deformation support to the lens filter threads, perhaps even sacrificial if necessary, but still provide the impact handling characteristics of the plastic hoods. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11046 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
All lenses flare and ghost, some more than others. Hoods reduce the flare and ghost by reducing light from outside cone of field of view, thus increasing contrast through less light pollution in darker portions.
Petal hoods are an attempt to even the shading over long and short dimensions and to let more light in the corners to reduce vignetting effects. Imho, these 'benefits' are 'gained' at the expense of less reduction of out-of-view lighting, less reduction of flare and ghost.
I try always to use a hood, for beneficial image effects and for lens front element protection. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Petal hoods are an attempt to even the shading over long and short dimensions and to let more light in the corners to reduce vignetting effects. Imho, these 'benefits' are 'gained' at the expense of less reduction of out-of-view lighting, less reduction of flare and ghost. |
That would only be true if the petal hood is shorter in the corners than a circular hood with the same diameter. Circular hoods need to have a larger diameter to be as effective as petal hoods, and then they still leave gaps for stray light to strike the front lens (unless you oversize the hood and accept vignetting). |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11046 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
AhamB wrote: |
visualopsins wrote: |
Petal hoods are an attempt to even the shading over long and short dimensions and to let more light in the corners to reduce vignetting effects. Imho, these 'benefits' are 'gained' at the expense of less reduction of out-of-view lighting, less reduction of flare and ghost. |
That would only be true if the petal hood is shorter in the corners than a circular hood with the same diameter. Circular hoods need to have a larger diameter to be as effective as petal hoods, and then they still leave gaps for stray light to strike the front lens (unless you oversize the hood and accept vignetting). |
Thanks! I have changed my mind.
I understand petal hoods are smaller than round hoods for same effect.
Also, petal hoods are more effective than round hoods because petal hood shading extends into the entrance pupil circle, vignetting top & bottom of exit pupil image circle, unused by 3:2 format -- extraneous light entering the lens is reduced more than round hood.
I know some people who would use a tripod like a bat on the head of any hood who touches their equipment! _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Jeff Zen
Joined: 17 Jun 2009 Posts: 262 Location: Northwest USA
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Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: The role of hoods on a lens. |
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Jeff Zen wrote:
newton wrote: |
An "expert" at a local camera store, which is quite large and and all over the country, once told me that hoods make no difference in IQ. |
Totally not true. Also helps autofocus in some cases, not to mention trap-focus in MF lenses. |
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1387 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:12 am Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
Smull wrote: |
Very interesting topic. In fact, it brings another question : how long must hoods be and do that length change if shooting with APS-C? |
Here's a link to an Excel spreadsheet that implements a lens hood calculator. Yes, shooting with APS-C affects the length of the hood required; in the calculator below, you should enter the dimensions of your camera sensor in millimeters to calculate the most effective hood for your lens.
Lens Hood Calculator by J C O'Connell: http://prime35.com/images/HOODCALC.XLS
Unfortunately, it will only provide calculations for round lens hoods. _________________ List of lenses |
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Rodinal
Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Posts: 17 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Rodinal wrote:
scsambrook wrote: |
Lens hoods work .... And a short hood on a long lens will only do a fraction of the job a longer one will. |
Is this nescessarily so? By keeping the law of diminishing returns in mind, I suspect that using a medium long hood on a long tele you block out so much of the stray light that the rest doesn't make any difference. By that logic, it makes sense to own hoods up to, say, 100-200mm but after that there's nothing to be gained by using longer ones to match the focal length. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Hood like tripod you can shoot without that , but in some situation it is essential. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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