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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:31 pm Post subject: Contax 50mm: Aperture blades problem |
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Nikos wrote:
A couple of months ago I bought a 50mm Planar on eBay which looked in great shape.
It really is, except that when stopping down from f11 to f16, the aperture ring was more stiff and you have to exert greater pressure.
"Who cares?", I thought, as I rarely use f16.
The real problem is that when used on my 5D II with an adapter, the problem appears as early as f4 --> f5.6.
Sometimes, the aperture ring turns, but the aperture remains the same. I have noticed that
unscrewing the lens a bit, makes the aperture blades move to the right position.
But this is very irritating and not a solution when you are in a hurry.
In general, when the lens is not mounted, the aperture works more or less fine.
Perhaps the problem is amplified by the adapter, but it happens with 2 adapters by different manufacturers.
Is there a way to fix this?
It is the MM version, SN 809XXXX
Thank you. _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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cambug
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 91
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 1:12 am Post subject: |
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cambug wrote:
One probable cause of this problem is with the lens aperture opening lever. For some Contax lenses and Canon FF bodies, this lever ( its only function is for Contax camera bodies, that irrespective of chosen aperture setting, it opens up the aperture fully for focusing, it retracts to let the aperture to stop down just before exposure) could touch the matte box (above the AF electrical connectors and below the mirror ) and get stuck. In this case, the aperture would be kept at either fully open or some other settings. You can check if there is any scratch mark inside the lens mount, if scratches can be found, this is the cause. The lever can be filed down a bit and it would not get stuck, the aperture movement would be free again. Good luck and have fun checking... |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 1:17 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Nikos, I had the same problem with all the copies that I tried (three).
It is a problem that comes out of the interaction of three elements: the lens, the adapter, and the camera.
For instance, the same combination lens-adapter that does not work on my FF cameras, did work with the 50D.
So one actor is the camera and specifically what is different between the 5D (I and II) and the 50D.
Another actor must be the adapter, because there is people who reported to have used the lens successfully with their adapters. My adapters don't work, but I can't tell about other adapters.
I finally solved the problem by... buying the ZS version of the lens _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:11 am Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
cambug wrote: |
One probable cause of this problem is with the lens aperture opening lever. For some Contax lenses and Canon FF bodies, this lever ( its only function is for Contax camera bodies, that irrespective of chosen aperture setting, it opens up the aperture fully for focusing, it retracts to let the aperture to stop down just before exposure) could touch the matte box (above the AF electrical connectors and below the mirror ) and get stuck. In this case, the aperture would be kept at either fully open or some other settings. You can check if there is any scratch mark inside the lens mount, if scratches can be found, this is the cause. The lever can be filed down a bit and it would not get stuck, the aperture movement would be free again. Good luck and have fun checking... |
+1 I've had this happen too with a Contax 35-70/3.4, although it didn't affect the aperture ring at all, just the aperture itself (wouldn't close). |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:52 am Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
cambug wrote: |
The lever can be filed down a bit and it would not get stuck, the aperture movement would be free again. Good luck and have fun checking... |
Thank you!
Instructions for filing a small and moving part? _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
Orio wrote: |
I finally solved the problem by... buying the ZS version of the lens |
Which is, by the way, out of stock. As is the ZE version... |
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Morfeus
Joined: 01 Nov 2010 Posts: 22
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Morfeus wrote:
nkanellopoulos wrote: |
Instructions for filing a small and moving part? |
Here is how I did this on a Carl Zeiss 50mm f/1.7. I covered the rear glass element with gaffa tape - stretched, so that it does not touch the glass itself. Closed the opening of the lever with some plastiline, to avoid metal dust falling inside the lens.
Then I used a metal file to shorten the lever by about 1mm. Any good metal file will do and you do not need much pressure.
Kalo risiko,
Heinz |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3249 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
I had the same problem with my 50/14 MM that I had from Andy.
I had to write him back and he told me to switch the adapters. I had 2 adapters, one chipped the other one not.
It worked with the non chipped adapter. _________________ Moderator Himself |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
I did not feel like filing my lens.
I think I have found a very simple and non-destructive solution.
The goal anyway was to prevent the lever from traveling.
So, I just blocked its way with a piece of plastic that I cut from my pills packaging:
Seems to work fine _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:55 am Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
nkanellopoulos wrote: |
The goal anyway was to prevent the lever from traveling. So, I just blocked its way with a piece of plastic that I cut from my pills packaging: |
Be careful that that piece of plastic is really secure. If it ends up between the shutter blades somehow, you're screwed. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
nkanellopoulos wrote: |
I did not feel like filing my lens.
I think I have found a very simple and non-destructive solution. |
Thanks for posting your photo. Hopefully your method holds together (seconding AhamB's concerns), as it is always good to find non-destructive and easily reversible solutions. Once you break out the file, there's no going back! _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:44 am Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote: |
Thanks for posting your photo. Hopefully your method holds together (seconding AhamB's concerns), as it is always good to find non-destructive and easily reversible solutions. Once you break out the file, there's no going back! |
There is no hole that the piece of plastic could fall into, so there is no danger of foreign bodies entering the lens.
I just hope that this solution will prove reliable in the long term. _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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Keysersoze27
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 466 Location: Greece
Expire: 2012-12-24
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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Keysersoze27 wrote:
Had the same problem with 5DII and 3 of my Contax lenses (not my 1.4/50 MM one).
I just used a electric nail filer using a metalic head (my girlfriend's staff ). It only took >2 minutes to file just >0.5mm ....nothing more!!!. Then used an acrylic black paint to cover the edge. Lenses work perfectly on my RTS after this tiny operation so no problem in this department;)
Φιλε Νικο,
Check the inside of your 5dII ... you should have a elliptic scratch in the inside plastic part of the camera's body where the aperture level is still touching _________________ Canon EOS 5D MkII , EOS 50E, Contax RTS, Olympus OM2n, Nikon Z6ii
28mm: Zeiss Distagon 2.8/28 MMJ
35mm: CZ Distagon 2/35 ZE , S-M-C Takumar 3.5/35
40mm: CZJ Tessar T 4.5/40 1Q
50mm: CZ Planar 1.4/50 MMJ,CZ Planar 1.7/50 AEJ+MMJ,Leica Summicron 2/50 v3,S-M-C Takumar 1.4/50,Pentax SMC 1.4/50 K,Pentax SMC 1.8/55 K,Nikkor 1.8/50 ,CZJ Tessar T 3.5/50 1Q , CZ Planar 1.8/50 (QBM),Zuiko 1.4/50, Zuiko 1.8/50, Icarex Tessar 2.8/50, Nikkor 2/50 Ai,Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 2.8/50 Preset, Pentacon Prakticar 2.4/50 MC v1, CZJ Pancolar 1.8/50 Zebra , Rikenon 1.4/50 P
55mm: Fujinon 1.8/55 EBC
58mm: Helios MC 44-3 2/58
85mm: Zeiss Sonnar 2.8/85 AEJ
90mm: Voigtl�nder APO-Lanthar 3.5/90 SLII , Leica Elmarit-R 2.8/90 v2
100~105mm:Zeiss Sonnar 3.5/100 MM, Nikkor 2.5/105 AiS, S-M-C Takumar 2.8/105
135mm: Leica Elmarit R 2.8/135 v2, S-M-C Takumar 3.5/135, CZJ 4/135 Sonnar Exakta leatherette (1963),CZJ 4/135 Triotar
Macro:Leica Macro-Elmarit R 2.8/60, Micro-Nikkor Auto 3.5/55 Compensating type (1964)
Last edited by Keysersoze27 on Tue Nov 02, 2010 3:01 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
nkanellopoulos wrote: |
There is no hole that the piece of plastic could fall into, so there is no danger of foreign bodies entering the lens. |
The concern wasn't that the plastic would fall into the lens... rather, that the plastic could fall out of the lens and into the camera. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
Keysersoze27 wrote: |
Check the inside of your 5dII ... you should have a elliptic scratch in the inside plastic part of the lens where the aperture level is still touching |
Yes you are right
The damage (scratch) is done now. Do you think I should file it anyway?
I will not cry for a tiny scratch in the inside of a camera that has taken more than 20.000 frames already, and it will keep taking...
I have had 2 injections against tenonditis in my right hand fingers today, and I am still dizzy _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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Keysersoze27
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 466 Location: Greece
Expire: 2012-12-24
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Keysersoze27 wrote:
nkanellopoulos wrote: |
Keysersoze27 wrote: |
Check the inside of your 5dII ... you should have a elliptic scratch in the inside plastic part of the lens where the aperture level is still touching |
Yes you are right
The damage (scratch) is done now. Do you think I should file it anyway?
I will not cry for a tiny scratch in the inside of a camera that has taken more than 20.000 frames already, and it will keep taking...
I have had 2 injections against tenonditis in my right hand fingers today, and I am still dizzy |
Well I have it too, before I realise it was the aperture level's fault. It's not such a big deal anyway (it's the anti-reflective finish that was scratched).
If you feel any kind of force resistance when you attach the lens on the 5dII then try to file it as you please. Kαλη αναρρωση με το χερι σου!!! _________________ Canon EOS 5D MkII , EOS 50E, Contax RTS, Olympus OM2n, Nikon Z6ii
28mm: Zeiss Distagon 2.8/28 MMJ
35mm: CZ Distagon 2/35 ZE , S-M-C Takumar 3.5/35
40mm: CZJ Tessar T 4.5/40 1Q
50mm: CZ Planar 1.4/50 MMJ,CZ Planar 1.7/50 AEJ+MMJ,Leica Summicron 2/50 v3,S-M-C Takumar 1.4/50,Pentax SMC 1.4/50 K,Pentax SMC 1.8/55 K,Nikkor 1.8/50 ,CZJ Tessar T 3.5/50 1Q , CZ Planar 1.8/50 (QBM),Zuiko 1.4/50, Zuiko 1.8/50, Icarex Tessar 2.8/50, Nikkor 2/50 Ai,Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 2.8/50 Preset, Pentacon Prakticar 2.4/50 MC v1, CZJ Pancolar 1.8/50 Zebra , Rikenon 1.4/50 P
55mm: Fujinon 1.8/55 EBC
58mm: Helios MC 44-3 2/58
85mm: Zeiss Sonnar 2.8/85 AEJ
90mm: Voigtl�nder APO-Lanthar 3.5/90 SLII , Leica Elmarit-R 2.8/90 v2
100~105mm:Zeiss Sonnar 3.5/100 MM, Nikkor 2.5/105 AiS, S-M-C Takumar 2.8/105
135mm: Leica Elmarit R 2.8/135 v2, S-M-C Takumar 3.5/135, CZJ 4/135 Sonnar Exakta leatherette (1963),CZJ 4/135 Triotar
Macro:Leica Macro-Elmarit R 2.8/60, Micro-Nikkor Auto 3.5/55 Compensating type (1964) |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Nikos method works! Thanks much for the tip!
If I knew it before, I would have saved 550 Euros _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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rhapflan
Joined: 26 Nov 2010 Posts: 1 Location: boston
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Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 3:33 am Post subject: |
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rhapflan wrote:
hi morfeus. you said when you filed down your contax 50mm, you "Closed the opening of the lever with some plastiline, to avoid metal dust falling inside the lens." i'm not familiar with the term plastiline. do you know if there's another trm for that. and did you cover the channel in which the lever slides? any details you can offer would be appreicated.
thanks |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:01 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
rhapflan wrote: |
i'm not familiar with the term plastiline. do you know if there's another trm for that. |
I don't know if there are other words, but I can explain what it is: Plastiline is modeling clay that is mixed with wax, so that it does not dry quickly as normal clay would. I am very familiar with it, because my dad was a sculptor, so plastiline was very common in his studio. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Nikos method works! Thanks much for the tip!
If I knew it before, I would have saved 550 Euros |
I also needed to apply this method for the 2/135 AE.
This lens would also not cooperate with most of my adapters. _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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