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Nordentro
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4711 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:35 am Post subject: Question about yellow glass on old lenses |
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Nordentro wrote:
Is it true that you just can put the lens in the window against the sun for some days to make the yellowing bleach? ![Surprised](images/smiles/icon_surprised.gif) _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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kds315*
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16591 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:54 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
this has been discussed several times in length here, search for it.
And yes, it is possible in principle. _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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Scheimpflug
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
It is also true that putting optics in the window can focus the sun and start fires. So be careful. ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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PaulC
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Doesn't it also depend on whether the yellow is from decayed glue between elements or from some radioactive effect? _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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lwsy711
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Posts: 230 Location: VA, US
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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lwsy711 wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
Doesn't it also depend on whether the yellow is from decayed glue between elements or from some radioactive effect? |
IMO, put it under sun can clean the yellowish from radioactive only. The best is put it directly under the sun light without any glass in front of the lens, because the UV light in the sun light is the key to cure the glass. _________________ Camera: pentax k7, Olympus E-p1
MF lens:
M42: CZJ 20/4, 35/2.4, 50/1.8, 135/3.5, Super Takumar 35/3.5, Yashinon macro 60/2.8, CZ tessar 80/2.8(Exakta to M42), Vivitar 200/3.5
Pk: Cosinon 55/1,2
Exakta: CZJ biotar 75/1.5, Meyer 100/2.8, Meritar 50/2.9
Praktina: CZJ biotar 75/1.5, Primagon 35/4.5
Praktica: CZJ pancolar 80/1.8 |
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visualopsins
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10778 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Success has been reported using Sunlight. Others have used inexpensive long-wave UV lamps. The shortwave UV lamps are more expensive; shortwave UV lamps require safety precautions to avoid eyesight damage!!!
For example 1.4/50 Takumars. The element that yellows is in rear group; point that end toward Sun; again, careful sunlight doesn't get focused starting a fire; some people put aluminum foil over front to reflect light back into lens. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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egidio
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 222 Location: slovenia
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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egidio wrote:
uv lamps are not that expensive, and you can de-yellow lens much faster than leaving it on the sun. You can really overheat lens on sun, not good for lubricants (just my opinion, dont rely on that one)
I have deyellowed my takumar overnight with uv lamp (I had it before for UV glueing) _________________ I use: Flektogon 2.8/20, Flektogon 2.8/35, planar 50mm/1.4, Takumar 1.4/50mm, Takumar 1.9/85, MIR 24H, Mir1v, Industar-50-2, Helios-44-2, Pentacon 2.8/135, cyclop 85 1.5 |
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Lloydy
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7773 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
http://web.aanet.com.au/bayling/repair.html
aarrgghhhh........ ![Rolling Eyes](images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif) _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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goombles
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 08 Apr 2010 Posts: 136 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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goombles wrote:
Quoting Wikipedia:
Quote: |
Ordinary glass is partially transparent to UVA but is opaque to shorter wavelengths while Silica or quartz glass, depending on quality, can be transparent even to vacuum UV wavelengths. Ordinary window glass passes about 90% of the light above 350 nm, but blocks over 90% of the light below 300 nm. |
So it sounds like only a small amount of UVA (and barely any UVB and maybe no UVC) would reach your lens by the window, depending on the glass in your window. Then you have people who say that lenses are designed to be very resistant to UV light.
Wouldn't it be easier to make one front lens cap from silica/quartz glass and just store the lens like normal if you're in no hurry?
N.B. I never got on with science so all of the above may just sound like absolute twaddle. |
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francotirador
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
egidio wrote: |
uv lamps are not that expensive, and you can de-yellow lens much faster than leaving it on the sun. You can really overheat lens on sun, not good for lubricants (just my opinion, dont rely on that one)
I have deyellowed my takumar overnight with uv lamp (I had it before for UV glueing) |
+1
I did with my Sonnar 180/2.8 P6, It was perfect. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
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