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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject: Fixing a SAMYANG 500mm f8 mirror lens with plenty of fungus |
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Jesito wrote:
My colleague Oscarpentax from the spanish Pentaxeros forum was so kind of sending me that lens, according him in a "terminal status" plenty of fungus, with the hood broken and the rubber ring that covers the focusing ring broken as well.
I told him I would try to fix it, with no commitments.
Got the lens past friday. Even with a daunting optical aspect, the mechanical part was almost fine, smooth focusing, well conserved painting.
First step: to remove the glass that holds the upper mirror. I used the MFLenses wrench
It was hard to move at the beginning, but once unlocked went out easily
Once the ring out, the glass went out alone:
Fungus are watched better over a dark background:
Next is to take the upper mirror out of the glass:
Next, an ultrasonic bath with water and two spoonfuls of bleach during 3'
Once out, wash and dry. The removal of the fungus traces is done with hands cream, very effective.
A fine layer of cream all over the glass. For some 30'. Time to clean the mirrors in the meantime.
Mirrors have very little affectation. A q-tip wet on bleach cleans the small spots without the need of further disassembly. More q-tips to dry and slightly wash and dry the mirrors.
Back to the glass: carefully washing, dry with a soft microfiber pad.
Reversing the disassemble procedure to setup the lens again.
And for the cosmetic part: A leather band replaces the rubber ring over the focusing ring.
That's all folks!
Hope this will be useful to someone else...
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:14 am Post subject: |
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David wrote:
I have this exact same lens in PK. I like it quite a bit -- no fungus, though. That's a very good report on how to clean lens fungus. Some ideas I'd never have thought of. Thank you. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3248 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
Great work Jesito!
It looks beautiful with that red leather band. You have a L lens now.
Now, that ultrasonic bath is something that I;ve never heard of before. Is it useful in fungus removal? I mean, how the ultrasounds are affecting the fungus? _________________ Moderator Himself |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:41 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I have a Tamron 500/8 -- the first version -- and I wish it were that easy with mine to remove the secondary mirror. Sadly it isn't. It appears to be cemented to the primary objective. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:58 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
So you had to put a blue rear cap to it too.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spanien_-_Nationalmannschaft_20091118.jpg _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:01 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Thanks for your comments, colleagues.
@David, nice to be of any help
@Himself, ultrasonic waves generate microbubbles at high temperature that make the bleach entering into the smallest parts and in theory killing the fungus. But unfortunately it doesn't remove the traces. Then it's necessary to use the hands cream. Sometimes I do a second bleach Ultrasonic bath after the process.
@Cooltouch, I have also the Tamron 500mm f8 but never tried to disassemble it. It's quite clean and has no fungus at all (by now).
Anyway I'll take a glimpse to it to see if some idea comes to disassembly it.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
@Cooltouch, I have also the Tamron 500mm f8 but never tried to disassemble it. It's quite clean and has no fungus at all (by now).
Anyway I'll take a glimpse to it to see if some idea comes to disassembly it.
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The Tamron mirror I have (1st version) is very easy to disassemble. Same as yours -- undo the ring with a wide spanner and the whole front group comes out. I didn't do anything with the rear section of the lens.
My problem isn't fungus. The secondary mirror, which appears to be cemented to the primary element (the big piece of glass) is delaminating. And I haven't figured out a way to get to it, short of breaking things.
You can see what I mean here:
That rainbow pattern shouldn't be there and is indicative of delamination. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
wow! that red leather is cool! _________________ T* |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5084 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Thank you Jesito !
It's true the red leather is very fine. It reminds of the 60s.
If you add yellow leather, you have the spanish flag ! _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3248 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
That high temperature( how high) wouldn't affect the coating or the glue between the lenses, presuming that you use it for a regular lens not mirror? _________________ Moderator Himself |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Himself wrote: |
That high temperature( how high) wouldn't affect the coating or the glue between the lenses, presuming that you use it for a regular lens not mirror? |
No, it's not a problem. High temperature is on the small bubbles and for really short time, the overall media (water, normally) gets only warm.
Not sure how it would affect to the glue between lenses, but I suspect that won't be a problem. Ultrasonic baths take 2-3 minutes only.
This same ultrasonic cube is used to clean watches, coins, CDs, glasses, with no harm at all.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
poilu wrote: |
wow! that red leather is cool! |
Yep, too cool. I'm thinking on replacing it by a classical black...
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Olivier wrote: |
Thank you Jesito !
It's true the red leather is very fine. It reminds of the 60s.
If you add yellow leather, you have the spanish flag ! |
Good point
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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TBaker
Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 344 Location: Canada
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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TBaker wrote:
The red leather is hot. Keep it. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
TBaker wrote: |
The red leather is hot. Keep it. |
I see
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Fantastic!
Thanks for taking the time to document your process, and show us just how good the results can be! _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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pat donnelly
Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Posts: 666 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:34 am Post subject: |
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pat donnelly wrote:
Excellent lesson, Jesito!
I suspected that the ultrasonics would be useful. While the bubbles are superheated and literally explode, they are so small they are used on contact lenses with little apparent damage, to remove protein build up.
Very clear exposition.
Thank you! _________________ ---------------------------------
EP-1, E-410, E-300, D100, D1,
C-Mt: 25mm 1.9, 75mm 1.4, 75mm 1.3, 75mm 1.9, Ultra wides, one inch sensor, 20+ c-mount zooms
OM 350mm f2.8, Nikkor 180 f2.8, Exa 180 f2.8,
Tamrons: 90mm f2.5, 500mm f8 x3, 135 f2.5, 200 f3.5, 24mm 2.5, 28mm 2.5 x8,
FD 500mm mirror lens |
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nipodemus
Joined: 28 Aug 2011 Posts: 1
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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nipodemus wrote:
Thank you for your excellent instructions!!
I am currently cleaning Hanimex 500mm mirror lens.
I has same construction, but the threads has been glued together. I applied alcohol using cotton buds to dissolve the glue.
I also needed to get between secondary mirror and its lens. It has also been glued together from outside. King alcohol worked again. I used suction cup to pull out the mirror.
There is also fungus on back lens. Havent opened the back.
I am still hesitating to do that.
Seconary mirror is currently drying, so I dont know the results yet... |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
nipodemus wrote: |
Thank you for your excellent instructions!!
I am currently cleaning Hanimex 500mm mirror lens.
I has same construction, but the threads has been glued together. I applied alcohol using cotton buds to dissolve the glue.
I also needed to get between secondary mirror and its lens. It has also been glued together from outside. King alcohol worked again. I used suction cup to pull out the mirror.
There is also fungus on back lens. Havent opened the back.
I am still hesitating to do that.
Seconary mirror is currently drying, so I dont know the results yet... |
Good luck!.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Jesito wrote: |
@Cooltouch, I have also the Tamron 500mm f8 but never tried to disassemble it. It's quite clean and has no fungus at all (by now).
Anyway I'll take a glimpse to it to see if some idea comes to disassembly it.
|
The Tamron mirror I have (1st version) is very easy to disassemble. Same as yours -- undo the ring with a wide spanner and the whole front group comes out. I didn't do anything with the rear section of the lens.
My problem isn't fungus. The secondary mirror, which appears to be cemented to the primary element (the big piece of glass) is delaminating. And I haven't figured out a way to get to it, short of breaking things.
You can see what I mean here:
That rainbow pattern shouldn't be there and is indicative of delamination. |
Michael, sorry but I missed this message.
No clues about delamination, probably difficult to fix...
Good luck.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Thanks for your comments, Scheimpflug and Pat.
Glad you liked it.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:30 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
Michael, sorry but I missed this message.
No clues about delamination, probably difficult to fix...
Good luck.
Jes. |
Hey Jes,
Well, after reading nipodemus's comments, now I'm thinking I might be in luck. He mentioned having to remove the secondary mirror of his lens from another element, and managed to remove it using alcohol. I hadn't even thought to try this. I wonder which will work better? Isopropyl? Denatured ethanol? Or methanol? Or maybe even something with a bit more of a kick. I have some acetone and paint stripper.
I don't know why, but I hadn't really even thought about attacking my problem with chemicals. It's gotta be the way to go, though, or else I'll just break things. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:34 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Jesito wrote: |
Michael, sorry but I missed this message.
No clues about delamination, probably difficult to fix...
Good luck.
Jes. |
Hey Jes,
Well, after reading nipodemus's comments, now I'm thinking I might be in luck. He mentioned having to remove the secondary mirror of his lens from another element, and managed to remove it using alcohol. I hadn't even thought to try this. I wonder which will work better? Isopropyl? Denatured ethanol? Or methanol? Or maybe even something with a bit more of a kick. I have some acetone and paint stripper.
I don't know why, but I hadn't really even thought about attacking my problem with chemicals. It's gotta be the way to go, though, or else I'll just break things. |
I've used isopropylic alcohol with good results in some cases, but depending on the adhesive, acetone can be an alternative. As far as I know, each adhesive has its own solvent, so it' s matter of trying. Be careful because both of them can dissolve some plastics.
Good luck.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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leodp
Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Posts: 8
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Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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leodp wrote:
nipodemus wrote: |
Thank you for your excellent instructions!!
I am currently cleaning Hanimex 500mm mirror lens.
I has same construction, but the threads has been glued together. I applied alcohol using cotton buds to dissolve the glue.
I also needed to get between secondary mirror and its lens. It has also been glued together from outside. King alcohol worked again. I used suction cup to pull out the mirror.
There is also fungus on back lens. Havent opened the back.
I am still hesitating to do that.
Seconary mirror is currently drying, so I dont know the results yet... |
Hi Nipodemus, I have your same lens and there's some fungus between secondary mirror and a lens in front of it.
If I dissolve the glue between them, how can then I put the two elements back together? I have not much experience.
Would it be enough to stop them by glueing them on the side or back and not directly on the optic surfaces? |
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leodp
Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Posts: 8
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Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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leodp wrote:
leodp wrote: |
Hi Nipodemus, I have your same lens and there's some fungus between secondary mirror and a lens in front of it.
If I dissolve the glue between them, how can then I put the two elements back together? I have not much experience.
Would it be enough to stop them by glueing them on the side or back and not directly on the optic surfaces? |
I have opened it.
Apart from some irritating glue fixing all rings, which I dissolved with a single drop of acetone (but which started dissolving also the black paint), the secondary mirror block is not glued at all.
Once removed the inner fixing ring the secondary mirror block can be removed from the glass lens.
Then I unscrewed the black disc which is accessible from the top of the objective (exposed to the outside during shooting).
I attach a picture which shows the opened secondary mirror block. From left to right:
The blocking disc, the secondary mirror, the ring (not threaded) separating mirror and lens, the lens, the "cage" for the secondary mirror.
Removing fungus and paint traces was quite easy with Isopropanol and microfiber clothes. No traces or scratches remaining.
[/img] |
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