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Soligor 400 f/6.3 : Infinity adjustment?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:25 am    Post subject: Soligor 400 f/6.3 : Infinity adjustment? Reply with quote

I own a Soligor 400mm f/6.3 prime lens, #17100644.
I believe it was manufactured by Tokina in the 1970s, as it has all the
visual and physical cues of my Soligor 75-260, which was recently
confirmed as a Tokina-made lens. The 400mm is a T4 mount, with a
M42 mount end installed.

I was attempting some shots of the moon tonight, and found that I am
unable to reach infinity focus with this lens. The split-circle image will
not align on my focusing screen, while other lenses do. I've tried using
all aperture settings, and am unable to capture a focused image.
The actual issue is that it does not quite reach infinity. I would be happy
if it even reached 'beyond' infinity, but it never gets to the infinity point
to begin with.

Can anyone offer ways to adjust proper infinity focus for this lens?
It's biggest hurdle is that closest focus apparently achieves at almost
25 feet, and I think this may be reason to believe I can not use any of
the "shortcut" methods as for shorter lenses.

The glass is unblemished, with the coatings flawless. The outer barrels are
also nearly like new, which is why I hesitate to dig into this lens without
first arming myself with some information.

Might this be caused by a too-thin M42 to EOS adapter?
I'd much rather add thickness to the adapter somehow, instead of dismantling
such a spiffy-looking lens.

All suggestions and advice will be appreciated.


PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkedAddled wrote:
Might this be caused by a too-thin M42 to EOS adapter?

It may well be. You could try inserting shims of different thickness between the adapter and the lens and then proceed by trial and error.


PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was under the assumption that the further away from the 'film plane' the lens is moved, the more 'macro' it becomes resulting in a further from infinity capability. That is what macro tubes and bellows accomplish. I'd think you would be looking to move the lens closer, rather than shimming further away.


PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

greg wrote:
I was under the assumption that the further away from the 'film plane' the lens is moved, the more 'macro' it becomes resulting in a further from infinity capability

That's right. I was in a hurry when I wrote my last post. The hypothesis of a too thick adapter makes more sense. At this point a measurement of the adapter should solve any doubt.

The theoretical thickness of the adapter should be:

Adapter thickness = M42 flange dist - EF flange dist = 45.46 - 44 = 1.46 mm


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually understood that a too-thick adapter might be a problem,
but I was also fishing for some other ideas.

So, on the front of 'other' ideas, how would I adjust this lens to focus
'beyond' infinity? I'd rather it focuses past infinity, at least slightly.

As it's my only good T4 mount, I think I'd rather calibrate my only other
T4 lens and this Soligor to it with a single M42 adapter. The other T4
I have is a Soligor 135mm, which is essentially a testbed lens for
mechanical disassembly/reassembly. I'd like to keep the one M42
to EOS adapter on the same T4 mount.

Any suggestions appreciated.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know the construction of this lens, but I think you have to gain access to focusing helicoid and see if you can make the rear element coming closer to the film/sensor plane. If you have an extra film body Mr. Rick Oleson has a good page on testing infinity focus :http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html. I used his suggestion to check a couple of my lenses with good result.

Regards, Marty.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you need to worry about losing any significant degree of close-focus, as the likely adustment needed to achieve infinity will be very small and on the close end the loss will be trivial.

I have this lens, I may get some time to try disassembling it. Its probable, as mentioned by marty, that the helical travel can be adjusted to get the front elements to come in just a bit closer.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a T4-EOS adapter instead of T4-M42-EOS...


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a T4-EOS ? If so I'd really like a T4-PK


PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

siriusdogstar wrote:
Try a T4-EOS adapter instead of T4-M42-EOS...
I would, if my finances weren't what they currently are.
I'm looking for a no-cost solution.

luisalegria wrote:
I have this lens, I may get some time to try disassembling it. Its probable, as mentioned by marty, that the helical travel can be adjusted to get the front elements to come in just a bit closer.
Looking forward to your findings if you go ahead with it. Many thanks, Luis.


PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luisalegria wrote:
Is there a T4-EOS ? If so I'd really like a T4-PK


Ack! I was doubly confused Shocked Shocked , thinking of T2 not T4, and Spiratone not Soligor.

I thought I had a T4-PK (yes T4 here) but it is a Soligor U/S-PK, sorry Sad


PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old thread resurrection alert!!!! Shocked

Sorry to bring this up again, but I may have found a solution.
It's almost midnight for me, so actual testing will have to wait until daylight returns to my side of the world. Rolling Eyes



I was very hesitant to try much of anything about infinity focus for
my 400mm Soligor, but I was browsing through some other older threads
and came upon Martin's revelation for a small lens he has. This got me
thinking in more reasonable terms for my Tokina-made Soligor.
All in all, I just hated the idea of messing about with a lens in such fine
optical and cosmetic condition, and I delayed doing anything about it
for a long time. Until now.

Here's a picture to illustrate. Yes, I know it's crooked, and the white balance
leaves much to be desired, but that's what I get for having a computer
monitor as my best lighting solution for quick impromptu shots. Wink


Here we find three grub screws located adjacent to the flared housing for the
outer element, located on the knurled focusing barrel. These are indicated
by the red arrow. They are tiny screws, no more than 1.5mm in diameter,
as my 1 mm screwdriver fits, but my 2mm driver does not.

The larger grub screw, indicated by the green arrow, is much larger,
and there is only one. I suspect it is the main stop point of the focus
helicoid at both extremes of the barrel's travel. I tested a 2.5mm driver
in it, with room to spare, so it's likely to be 3mm or larger.


After a bit of trial and error experimentation, I managed to determine
that the three tiny grub screws not only secure the focus barrel's place
on the lens, as well as securing the front element assembly in place,
but also appears to allow adjustment for infinity focus, as I was able
to rotate the barrel further than the infinity stop before tightening them
all back down again.

However, to reiterate, I have not yet tested this for success, as I cannot
do so under cover of darkest night. But I am encouraged, and I will
report my findings as soon as I am able to do so.


PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you're onto something. I was about to suggest that a previous owner may have disassembled the lens and not gotten the helical back together properly -- this can happen easily enough if one dismantles the lens without marking the helical's position.

But it sounds as if you may have run across an even easier solution.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would normally agree with you Michael, except for the fact that the clear
adhesive used to secure all the grub screws was fully intact before I took
a driver to anything. I don't believe this lens has ever been disassembled
or adjusted before.

I do hope I've landed on a solution, but only time and overcoming my
laziness will tell us anything. Embarassed

I'll be sure to pop in with an update if there's been any real change,
once I have an opportunity to put it to a test.


PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkedAddled wrote:


I'll be sure to pop in with an update if there's been any real change,
once I have an opportunity to put it to a test.


Hi all.
So how did it go?

I bought a Tokina 400mm 6.3 m42 on the Swedish Ebay for almost nothing and Im getting it tomorrow so Im trying to catch up as much as possible on this lens.

Did you make it work? Any pictures taken with it?

I have dissmantled/cleaned a lot of old lenses and adjusting the infinity is usually pretty simple.
Use a good stand and a sharp target as far off as possible.

In many cases you simply zoom as close as you can get to infinity and then loosen the screws (the three small ones).

If you have a digital viewfinder you can zoom in as much as possible on the target and fine tune the focus setting.

Now loosen the set screws and turn the loose focus ring back a cm or so and fasten at least 1 of the screws so you can focus again. There is often at least 1 full turn left on the helical but mostly many turns left so dont worry about that.

Now use your newly gained cm's and find that exact infinity focus. This is were the Digital viewfinder with a zoom helps a lot. Mine has a 10x zoom.
Once you got the spot you dont want to loose it. Not even by a 10ts of a mm.

Very very carefully loosen the focusrings set screw again without changing the position of the helical ( this is why its better to only fasten 1 of the set screws while finding the perfect infinity. Better to only have 1 set screw to unscrew then 3 of them) and turn the focusring forward until it hits the stop screw. Then carefully fasten the set screws again.
Often when screwing back the set screws you might nudge the focus enough to loose the perfect infinity so keep checking the viewfinder fully zoomed in.

Also be carefull with the force you apply to the camera itself on the stand while working on the set screws. If you use ever so little force to push the lens/camera towards your screwdriver while looking at the viewfinder you will loose the infinity simply because you moved the whole camera a couple of nanometers or so Wink Then when you release the whole thing thinking your done the camera moves back that distance and you loose that perfect infinity.

Hope that ramblings helps someone in a similar situation.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the information, aliasant.

I haven't yet put the lens through any testing, though it should be soon.
Life and death have gotten in my way, as of late...


PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am happy to report that my initial thoughts about infinity adjustment
were correct. I successfully adjusted both my 400mm and 75-260mm
zoom lens to infinity. Both are branded Soligor, both made by Tokina.
The adjustment was simple and quick.

A couple of notes about the procedure:
1) After loosening the three grub screws, hold the focusing barrel
against the infinity stop while turning the front assembly.
2) Be sure the focusing barrel is pushed against the front assembly
when retightening the grub screws.

I checked the procedure around 3 times per lens, just to be sure
of my adjustments. I've adjusted both to slightly 'past' infinity, just
to be sure I'll be able to properly focus.

Here's an example taken through the 75-260 today:


PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkedAddled wrote:
I am happy to report that my initial thoughts about infinity adjustment were correct. I successfully adjusted both my 400mm and 75-260mm zoom lens to infinity. Both are branded Soligor, both made by Tokina. The adjustment was simple and quick


Congratulations, and thanks for the confirmation on the procedure. Cool


PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi SkedAddled,
Sorry for this small and almost off-topic, but I've bought a Tele-Raynox 400mm F6.3 and my problem is that I can only focus from 8m to about 3m.
I believe that or I'm missing a glass on the bottom of the lens, or there is something very wrong with it.
The reason I'm writing here is to ask you to post a photo of the rear of the lens (I believe that both lens are almost identical) so I can see that part of the lens.

Thank you in advance,

Best regards,

Raul Costa


PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raulcosta wrote:
...I've a Tele-Raynox 400mm F6.3 and my problem is that I can only focus from 8m to about 3m.
I would suspect that if you only have a focusing range of around 5 meters with a 400mm lens, then the lens is either missing element(s) or has had some element(s) installed or oriented incorrectly.

I don't know the first thing about Raynox lenses other than as add-ons for P&S models, Raul, though I would not think they are very similar to this Tokina-made Soligor.

As requested, here's some pictures:

The entire lens. Tokina manufacture is evident, and the serial confirms it.


The lens is a native T-4 mount, with a M42 adapter, shown here without my M42 to EOS adapter.


And this shows the lens without the T-4 to M42 mount adapter installed.


If I am wrong about Raynox lenses, I am sure someone will be along soon enough to correct me.

I hope this helps.