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exaklaus
Joined: 11 Aug 2009 Posts: 1633 Location: Niederrhein, Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:30 am Post subject: |
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exaklaus wrote:
Have fun with this nice camera.
Klaus _________________ my Ebay auctions
Canon 5D II,
Fuji GW690III, Fuji G617, Fujifilm X-E1
Bessaflex TM
Tachihara 4"x5"
Summilux-R 1:1,4/50
Canon FD 85mm 1:1,2
Color-Heliar 75mm F2.5 SL
www.autoselbstfotografie.de
www.classic-cameras-and-lenses.de |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
rpo83 wrote: |
Here she is before i fit the grip, and screen protector. I have bought both hoods, the 46mm Sigma one and the 52mm lensmate one. |
Congratulations! Glad you were able to make it in before that deal ended.
Which hood did you buy for the Lensmate adapter? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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rpo83
Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:53 am Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
Hi Scheimpflug,
I have not bought any accessory lenses yet, the 46mm and 52mm hoods were mainly for ND filter use.
It seems like i timed it well, it looks like they are $470 now. Still a bargain. _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
rpo83 wrote: |
I have not bought any accessory lenses yet, the 46mm and 52mm hoods were mainly for ND filter use. |
Ahh, thought they might have come out with something new.
Just to avoid any confusion, the Lensmate tubes are just adapter tubes - not hoods. So to finish the package, you will probably want to pick up a 52mm hood for the Lensmate adapter.
Here's an example... pretty sweet looking if you ask me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tetsu_sawamura/3207218514 _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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rpo83
Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
I just used the term hood as it is what Sigma call their 46mm adapter..
That DP in the link looked great.
What if anything are you using for a strap? _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
rpo83 wrote: |
I just used the term hood as it is what Sigma call their 46mm adapter..
That DP in the link looked great.
What if anything are you using for a strap? |
Yeah, I agree, the Sigma marketing is a bit odd. But as you know, it is in fact two separate pieces from Sigma.
For a strap, I use a shoelace tied through the right-hand strap anchor. It works perfectly. It's comfortable, it's strong, you can put your hand through it and pick it up one handed, it doesn't get caught around your neck, the camera won't fall as far if you drop it (compared to a neck strap), there is no plastic or buckles or clasps to scratch the camera, it was inexpensive, available in many colors (including black), discreet, steadies your grip while it is around your wrist, customizable to any length, you can put the camera in the pouch and carry it without removing the strap from your wrist, etc, etc, etc.
I could take a picture of it if you would like. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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rpo83
Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
Shoelace.... _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Oh yeah, and they always come in pairs. Buy one, get one free! Have any other cameras that need a strap? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Let's see a pic of the shoelaced camera! |
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yadisl
Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Posts: 180 Location: the Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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yadisl wrote:
Just acquired a DP1 today.
EUR 180 and I got everything: leather bag, flash, hood, filters (UV, FLD, Polarizer, Macro), extra battery. I only missed the would be nice hotshoe viewfinder.
Very nice results for the price.
A bit slow, but I don't care since I just do photo of buildings, railways, etc.
_________________ Tell me what you love, I will tell you who you are (Proust)
TLR yashica 635, 124
Canon canonet 1.9
Olympus E500
KM Dynax 7D
Sigma DP1
Rokkor MD 200/4, MD 50/1.4, MC PF 50/1.4, MD 135/3.5, Pentax SMC-M 50/4 macro, Takumar 105/2.8, Jena DDR 135/3.5, Porst 135/2.8, Prinzgalaxy 300/4, Mamiya ZE 300/4, Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, CZJ Flektogon 4/20, Helios 58/2, Konica Hexar AR 50/1.4, Wollensak Velostigmat 90/4.5, Voigtlander Heliar 18 cm / 4.5, Heliar 15 cm / 4.5, APO Lanthar 15 cm / 4.5, Zeiss Tessar 105/3.5, Zeiss Opton 75/3.5, Mamiya 55/2.8, ZD 14-42, Minolta 17-35/2.8-4 D, Petri 35/3.5, Leica-R 35/2.8, Minolta 70-210/4, Minolta 35-70/4, Minolta 50/1.7. |
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yadisl
Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Posts: 180 Location: the Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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yadisl wrote:
_________________ Tell me what you love, I will tell you who you are (Proust)
TLR yashica 635, 124
Canon canonet 1.9
Olympus E500
KM Dynax 7D
Sigma DP1
Rokkor MD 200/4, MD 50/1.4, MC PF 50/1.4, MD 135/3.5, Pentax SMC-M 50/4 macro, Takumar 105/2.8, Jena DDR 135/3.5, Porst 135/2.8, Prinzgalaxy 300/4, Mamiya ZE 300/4, Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, CZJ Flektogon 4/20, Helios 58/2, Konica Hexar AR 50/1.4, Wollensak Velostigmat 90/4.5, Voigtlander Heliar 18 cm / 4.5, Heliar 15 cm / 4.5, APO Lanthar 15 cm / 4.5, Zeiss Tessar 105/3.5, Zeiss Opton 75/3.5, Mamiya 55/2.8, ZD 14-42, Minolta 17-35/2.8-4 D, Petri 35/3.5, Leica-R 35/2.8, Minolta 70-210/4, Minolta 35-70/4, Minolta 50/1.7. |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:44 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
Let's see a pic of the shoelaced camera! |
Here it is.
I've had this shoelace in place since the day I received my DP1... almost two and a half years ago now. The strap has endured countless trips and tens of thousands of photos... so I'm pretty confident in the "design". _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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yadisl
Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Posts: 180 Location: the Netherlands
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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:43 am Post subject: |
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yadisl wrote:
Pretty color (the shoelace). _________________ Tell me what you love, I will tell you who you are (Proust)
TLR yashica 635, 124
Canon canonet 1.9
Olympus E500
KM Dynax 7D
Sigma DP1
Rokkor MD 200/4, MD 50/1.4, MC PF 50/1.4, MD 135/3.5, Pentax SMC-M 50/4 macro, Takumar 105/2.8, Jena DDR 135/3.5, Porst 135/2.8, Prinzgalaxy 300/4, Mamiya ZE 300/4, Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, CZJ Flektogon 4/20, Helios 58/2, Konica Hexar AR 50/1.4, Wollensak Velostigmat 90/4.5, Voigtlander Heliar 18 cm / 4.5, Heliar 15 cm / 4.5, APO Lanthar 15 cm / 4.5, Zeiss Tessar 105/3.5, Zeiss Opton 75/3.5, Mamiya 55/2.8, ZD 14-42, Minolta 17-35/2.8-4 D, Petri 35/3.5, Leica-R 35/2.8, Minolta 70-210/4, Minolta 35-70/4, Minolta 50/1.7. |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:03 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I wouldn't have picked you for an orange shoelace...black and white maybe...
Nice camera though! Looks smooth. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:10 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Orange and black, the perfect setup for Halloween!
Looks cool! |
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Ballu
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 912 Location: Columbus, OH. USofA
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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:07 am Post subject: |
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Ballu wrote:
I just got this camera about a month back. Can say only one thing, superb... I havent touched my DSSLR after that. I en up using this camera for whole India trip
Slow, but who uses AF..
I posted few pics of Qutub Minar and going to post more in next few days... _________________ -Ballu
http://balyanpage.blogspot.com/ |
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berraneck
Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:20 am Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
I was trying to find some info on differences between DP-1, DP-1s and DP-1x.
"s" solves some problem with reddish colours, right?
"x" should have improved AF and high-iso performance, but how much? is there any big difference?
or these differences doesn´t mean anything in practical using and i may pick any model?
i´d like to buy it for street/pub and travel photography, so fast AF and good high-iso performance is not minor to me
thanks _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:59 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
berraneck wrote: |
I was trying to find some info on differences between DP-1, DP-1s and DP-1x.
"s" solves some problem with reddish colours, right?
"x" should have improved AF and high-iso performance, but how much? is there any big difference?
or these differences doesn´t mean anything in practical using and i may pick any model?
i´d like to buy it for street/pub and travel photography, so fast AF and good high-iso performance is not minor to me
thanks |
All of the Foveon sensor cameras are especially sensitive to exposure in the red channel... There have been changes to Sigma Photo Pro to help correct this when processing the X3F files, but you tend to learn to use some negative exposure compensation when you have bright red/orange/yellow subjects in view.
The fix in the DP1s was for the "red grid" problem - a reflection between the sensor microlenses and the IR filter which gave a blooming red or magenta dot pattern around bright highlights (the sun, etc).
I don't think the DP1x is out yet... so we will have to wait and see how big the improvements are.
I can say that the autofocus on the DP1 is pretty slow, and is especially slow in low light. The Foveon sensors are not particularly good in high ISO situations, but they produce stunning images in good light... Would you be using a flash when in the pubs? Also, I'm not sure what your definition of "high ISO" would be... but ISO 400 is about where I stop on the DP1. At ISO 800 (the DP1's max), the colors take a real turn for the worst. I generally limit myself to ISO 50, 100, and 200. If 200 isn't enough, I find something to brace off of and use whatever shutter speed it takes. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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rpo83
Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
I have been very gun shy of high ISO when using all my Sigma cameras, most of my stuff is ISO50 on the SD14's.
Last weekend however i went out to try a lensbaby 2.0 that i had just bought, i fitted it to my SD14 and went looking for subjects. I saw a lyrebird so i had adjusted my ISO to 800 to try and get a shot, i failed dismally. Forgetting about the ISO setting i took this shot..
SDIM4355
Camera Make: SIGMA
Camera Model: SIGMA SD14
Mode: Manual
Aperture: f/1.1
Exposure Time: 0.001 sec (1/1250)
ISO: 800
When i got home and processed the image, i was stunned at how good an ISO800 image looked!
I still will stick to my usual 50/100, but i thought it was interesting that the image held up so well. _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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berraneck
Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
Scheimpflug: i mainly use TriX at iso400 or iso800, so something like that is what i need. AF is quite important for me, as i shoot with manual SLR and can focus pretty fast - or at least pre-focus at some distance and then just shoot on f/8 or sth like that, focus covered by DoF
ad. dp-1x: at sigma website is some information on releasing in summer2010. it should have option of iso1600/3200 in raw and some improvements, i´d say same electronics like SD15.
rpo83: iso800? looks great, this quality is more than enough for my purposes:) maybe in bad light conditions it may be worse, but not much, right? _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
berraneck wrote: |
rpo83: iso800? looks great, this quality is more than enough for my purposes:) maybe in bad light conditions it may be worse, but not much, right? |
Oh no, it can get much much worse.
Steve's image may be a "keeper", but you can see the warning signs... particularly the magenta shift in the clipped reds, but also the lack of shadow detail, the low saturation, and the blotchy yellow & green patches. (Sorry Steve, I don't at all mean to be critical of your photo... It's just the Foveon characteristics...)
Some additional post processing can help cover up some of these problems (Steve- I can give it a go on yours if you would like), but the blotchy color can be a genuine problem - particularly with skin tones. People are willing to accept or overlook quite a few faults in an image... but show someone a picture of them with color patches on their face, especially a female, and they will quite clearly let you know what they think of it.
I have plenty of bad shots in my collection... so I could probably find some examples if you would like. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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