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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:20 am Post subject: Close-up thread lenses How To |
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magkelly wrote:
I have this set now:
http://www.amazon.com/HOYA-Filter-Close-Up-thread-lenses/dp/B0009SY8GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1284455793&sr=1-2
I get that they are for macro work, but I'm not too certain of how they work and I can't seem to pull up anything relative on Google. Any particular lens you're supposed to use them with? Do you use one at a time, stack them, both?
They look like your basic magnifying glass to me, but I figure there has to be a bit more to it that this, otherwise why would you bother with these versus say a good macro zoom?
I've never actually seen a set before so if this is a dumb question I apologize before hand. My digital has macro but I'm wondering if this is better/worse? Could be used with both film and digital SLRs?
Thanks! |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:47 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
I'll let someone else chime in with more specifics, but a few quick answers:
* The reason to buy a dedicated macro lens is that the macro lens was all designed together as one piece. The generic add-on lenses are not optimized for any particular lens, plus you are introducing one more piece of glass, so the quality will not be as good as a dedicated macro lens.
* Feel free to stack them, and feel free to use them on any lens they fit. The quality will vary (for reasons above)... so it is sort of one of those "try it and see what happens" sort of deals.
* Another option is to use extension tubes, which go between the lens and the camera. The tubes do not have any optics (so they don't degrade the image quality), and give a bit different results than close-up filters.
* Don't be afraid to experiment, and I hope I haven't discouraged you in any way. I've seen some stunning results with close-up lenses, so I wish you the best of luck. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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wilson.c
Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 364 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 2:40 am Post subject: |
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wilson.c wrote:
I've played around with the screw on lenses when I was a kid and did not have much money to buy a macro lens. You are right, they are magnifying lenses of different degrees to add to the front of your lens. It basically depends on what you want to use it for, if it's for something quick and dirty and you don't want to invest in a macro setup, it would be great, but you just have to be aware of the quality issues of adding glass in front of your lens as Scheimpflug said. I was doing some reproduction work and the corners always were out not very sharp, but if it was for macro shots, this could be a nice effect.
Macro extension rings are a better option, but you need to change rings if you need more magnification. With the advances in design and manufacturing today, there are some 'variable' extension tubes that extend and retract with a twist of a ring, for a reasonable price. I usually use these for adapting lenses without focusing helicoids, but have heard they are as good as their fixed length counterparts, but with you can easily vary the length.
For the long term, a fixed macro lens is the way to go. They are optimized for close focusing distances and you don't have to fiddle around and find out that you missed the shot.
Hope this helps out. _________________ Wilson
DSLR: Canon 5DMkII, 500D + Panasonic GF-1
SLR: Canon T90, Canon F1, Canon A1, Canon AE1 + Rolleiflex SL66 + Bronica ETRs
R'finder: Contax G1, G2 + Leica M6, M3 + Contax II
Lenses
M42: Angenieaux 90/1.8
Canon: FD 50/3.5 Macro, FD 80/1.8, FD 80-200L/4
Contax G: CZ Hologon 16/8, CZ Biogon 21/2.8, CZ Biogon 28/2.8, CZ Planar 45/2.0, CZ Sonnar 90/2.8
P-Six: CZJ Sonnar 180/2.8, CZJ Biometar 120/2.8
Contax: Distagon 28/2.8, Distagon 28/2, Planar 85/1.4, Makro-Planar 100/2.8
Others: CZ Sonnar 135/3.5 (Hasselblad V mount)
More little ones to be documented.
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
As mentioned, such +dioptre meniscus lenses are a quick-and-dirty way to shrink your working distance. They are not corrected for aberrations, as are Raynox adapters and the like, but that effect can be exploited if you wish. A +1 dioptre on a not-real-fast short tele, like the 55/5.6 end of a kit lens, can dramatically narrow the depth-of-field for portraits etc.
You'll want a lens hood on single or stacked +dioptres to improve glare and contrast. I always keep a set of these at hand when I'm noodling around in the field. I just don't expect pristine results. Yes, they work on both film and digital. I used such on my Oly Pen-FT SLR back in the mid-1970's.
For better (and simple) closeups, a corrected adapter like a Raynox DCR-150 or -250 gives excellent (but not perfect) results. These are usually around US$60. A 'macro' lens is even simpler but usually costlier. I was lucky to buy a Macro-Takumar 50/4 and Vivitar-Komine 90/2.8 (both 1:1) for low prices but I use them less than I do enlarger lenses on bellows. A system of bellows, tubes, mount-reversal rings, and enlarger lenses, gives great bang-for-the-buck. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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Nikos
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 1077 Location: Greece
Expire: 2015-01-02
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Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 11:25 pm Post subject: |
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Nikos wrote:
Canon's 250D (for normal) and 500D (for tele lenses) are very good.
They are double element lenses, and correct many of the glaring defects of the single element alternatives in the market.
An ideal solution to increase the magnification of a lens from, say, 0.25X to 0.35X while retaining good quality.
Example photo
(Canon EOS 20D, 50mm lens + 250D, crop)
I have also tried close-up "filters" by B+W, which were a disappointment.
They also were considerably cheaper.
Of course a macro lens is a better and more expensive solution.
But you can skip carrying a dedicated macro lens by carrying one of these.
Especially if you want to shoot close-ups and not true macro. _________________ Νίκος • www.diafragma.gr
Cameras: Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Sony α7R, Sony NEX-5N
MF lenses:
SLR:
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4, Zeiss 2.8/21 ZE, Zeiss 2/28 Contax, Zeiss 2/35 ZE, Zeiss 1.4/50 Contax, Zeiss 1.4/85 Contax, Zeiss Makro 2/100 ZE,
Zeiss 2/135 Contax, Zeiss 2.8/135 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 35-70 Contax, Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 100-300 Contax, Zeiss F-Distagon Rollei, Canon FD 24mm f2, Minolta MD Rokkor 35mm f2.8
Rangefinder:
Zeiss 4.5/21 C Biogon ZM, Zeiss 2/35 Biogon ZM, Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar L39, Leica Tele-Elmarit 2.8/90mm, Zeiss 2/45 Contax G, Zeiss 2.8/90 Contax G, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM
AF lenses: Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II, Canon 70-200 f/4 L, Canon 300 f/4 L IS, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11014 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 12:43 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Read recently in the "The Pentax Way" by Herbert Keppler:
"Generally speaking a +1 lens focuses from 20" to 38"; a +2 from 13" to 20"; a +3 from 10" to 13"; a +4 from 8" to 10"; a +5 from 6.5" to 8"; a +6 from 6" to 6.5"; a +8 at 5" and a +10 at 4". The focusing distances are not dependent on focal length. No matter what lens you use on your camera, subject distance with the same close-up lenses remain the same. Naturally, the area covered varies with the focal length of the lens and the image size will be greater with the lens of longer focal length."
Thus the close-up attachment lens diopter selects the working distance, while the focal length of the lens the close-up lens is attached onto determines magnification. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11014 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
More: Rick Oleson's pdf "What's a Diopter? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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