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a20010494
Joined: 15 Feb 2010 Posts: 396 Location: Perú.
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:46 am Post subject: Broken flash shoe. |
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a20010494 wrote:
So, i stupidly broke my flash shoe, and im not going to pay 20 bucks for a new shoe, so, i read that instant glue and sodium bicarbonate make great unions, does anybody know?
Thanks a lot.
BTW, my flash is a Sigma EF-500 GD ST. _________________ www.estudiocaleidoscopio.com |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:09 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I have used super glue and sodium bicarbonate both as a filler and as an attempted structural material. I have found that it works fine as a filler material but that its structural properties weren't up to the task. As a structural substitute I've used it two ways -- as a repair for broken fingernails (a classical guitarist uses nails for tone and playing ease), and as a way of building up cuts in fingeroboard nuts that the strings pass over that were cut too deeplly. The mixture chipped too easily as a nail substitute and was not hard enough to act as a suitable bone substitute for the fingerboard nut. As a filler, it worked fine, but then it wasn't being subjected to stress in any way.
Is there some reason why you can't just use super glue to the broken pieces directly? If they are the type of plastic that SG works with, the union should be pretty strong. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 7:12 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
If it was 2000 bucks I could see the point, but for 20 bucks I wouldn't attempt it. If the flash falls off the camera becuse the repair wasn't good, it makes no sense. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
If glue alone won't be strong enough, you could always drill & pin it. But if you don't already own a pin vise and a tiny drill bit, you might as well just put that money toward the $20 repair part instead. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
I wouldn't mess with a DIY repair saving you $20, not when it's a flash hotshoe. They almost all have built in weak points from the factory, so that as opposed to breaking the body they break with results easy and cheap to repair.
If you glue it you're probably altering this structural weak point which is there for a reason, and that reason is "should damage occur we save your money". |
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a20010494
Joined: 15 Feb 2010 Posts: 396 Location: Perú.
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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a20010494 wrote:
I'm just too stubborn for that, i guess the part costs around 4 dollars and the shipping costs around 16... and that just doesnt feel right. I wouldn't mind paying more for something that wont break in the near future, but 20 dollars for something that wont last, its just a waste imo. _________________ www.estudiocaleidoscopio.com |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11060 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Camera have PC connection? Maybe use flash bracket. Benefit is gets flash off lens axis, for fewer dimmer red eyes.
Purchase used SD14, sell broken SD14 for more, net profit.
If shoe is glued, recommend a leash for flash in case shoe breaks flash will not smash on ground. Instead of baking soda, maybe use hardwood sawdust or metal filings for filler -- if metal is used, beware shorting electrical connections. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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