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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:11 am Post subject: Provia 400 - excellent! |
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PaulC wrote:
My final film type to show is Provia 400, again through the Pentacon Six and Flektogon 50/4.
This is an excellent film and grain does not seem to be an issue at all, which surprised me somewhat:
_________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:21 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
WOW ! As I know it has more version , which one exactly is this ? Early one is grainy if I know well. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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rawhead
Joined: 09 Feb 2009 Posts: 1525 Location: Boston, MA
Expire: 2014-04-29
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: |
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rawhead wrote:
As long as you give it enough exposure, grain isn't a problem with this film, even when pushed two stops (EI=1600):
BTW, this is the older version, Provia 400F _________________ Sony α7R, Pentax 67II, Kiev-60, Hasselblad 203FE, 903SWC, Graflex Norita 66, Mamiya M645 1000s, Burke & James 8x10, Graflex Pacemaker Speed Graphic (4x5 and 3x4), Century Graphic (2x3), R.B. Graflex Seried D, Rolleiflex SL66E, Rolleiflex 2.8C Xenotar, Mamiya C330f, a few M42, six P6, three OM, four Hasselblad, two Pentax 67, two Mamiya 645, one Noritar, and a sprinkle of EF. Oh, and an Aero Ektar and Leica Noctilux |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:11 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Mine is the new 400X _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Thank you for both of you! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Very nice, Paul. I'm gonna have to try some of this stuff. So far, I've been shooting just slow emulsions with my medium format cameras, except for B&W.
I'm curious -- what did you use to scan your photo with? It came out very well. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
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My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
It's always my Epson V500. Medium format is less demanding for it, of course, but film sag can be more severe. Also, this has been cropped down a bit to eliminate vignetting and because I rotated to straighten the verticals. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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spleenone
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 1130 Location: Slovakia
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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spleenone wrote:
rawhead wrote: |
As long as you give it enough exposure, grain isn't a problem with this film, even when pushed two stops (EI=1600):
BTW, this is the older version, Provia 400F |
Nice both of you but...
there is some special process for developing it at higher iso? btw I never know this ability. _________________ Shoot on analog mainly with
Nikkor glass
then Pentacon6TL for squares
and Fujica GL690 in case of 6x9
Carpe diem! |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Yes, you have to extend the developing time. It's called push processing. A good lab will do it for you if you tell them how may stops extra you need. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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rawhead
Joined: 09 Feb 2009 Posts: 1525 Location: Boston, MA
Expire: 2014-04-29
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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rawhead wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
Yes, you have to extend the developing time. It's called push processing. A good lab will do it for you if you tell them how may stops extra you need. |
Or, like me, just do it yourself 2-stop push is about double developing time (6:30 + 5:30 = 12 minutes). _________________ Sony α7R, Pentax 67II, Kiev-60, Hasselblad 203FE, 903SWC, Graflex Norita 66, Mamiya M645 1000s, Burke & James 8x10, Graflex Pacemaker Speed Graphic (4x5 and 3x4), Century Graphic (2x3), R.B. Graflex Seried D, Rolleiflex SL66E, Rolleiflex 2.8C Xenotar, Mamiya C330f, a few M42, six P6, three OM, four Hasselblad, two Pentax 67, two Mamiya 645, one Noritar, and a sprinkle of EF. Oh, and an Aero Ektar and Leica Noctilux |
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spleenone
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 1130 Location: Slovakia
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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spleenone wrote:
rawhead wrote: |
PaulC wrote: |
Yes, you have to extend the developing time. It's called push processing. A good lab will do it for you if you tell them how may stops extra you need. |
Or, like me, just do it yourself 2-stop push is about double developing time (6:30 + 5:30 = 12 minutes). |
Understand those terms. Only never see it with slide film.
I heard that E6 chemistry is crazy pricey. Is it true? _________________ Shoot on analog mainly with
Nikkor glass
then Pentacon6TL for squares
and Fujica GL690 in case of 6x9
Carpe diem! |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:03 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
spleenone wrote: |
rawhead wrote: |
PaulC wrote: |
Yes, you have to extend the developing time. It's called push processing. A good lab will do it for you if you tell them how may stops extra you need. |
Or, like me, just do it yourself 2-stop push is about double developing time (6:30 + 5:30 = 12 minutes). |
Understand those terms. Only never see it with slide film.
I heard that E6 chemistry is crazy pricey. Is it true? |
No - it's cheaper than having a lab do it (at about $7 a roll), I guess that assumes that you do enough to use up the chemicals. I haven't done it but I looked it up once. Temperatures are critical. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:50 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Back in the day when I was having to work with short turn-around times, I developed my own slides using the kits you could buy. I found that the hardest thing was keeping temp constant. +/-1/2 a degree Fahrenheit is about all you get before color becomes affected. There must still be quite some demand for this type of developing though cuz whenever I see Jobo processors up for auction on eBay they go for a lot. I just used my bathroom sink filled with warm water and ice cubes to fine-tune the temperature. There was enough thermal mass in a sink of water to keep the temp stable enough. It was time consuming, though, getting everything dialed in to the right temperature before starting the process.
If you buy in quantity and do a lot of developing (so you'll use up all the chemicals before they go bad), you'll see some savings. But it won't be a huge amount. Freestyle has about the best US prices I've seen so far. The only reason why I did it at all was so I could develop my slides same-day. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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rawhead
Joined: 09 Feb 2009 Posts: 1525 Location: Boston, MA
Expire: 2014-04-29
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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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rawhead wrote:
Actually, you do save a huge amount. Let me show you the calculation.
For E-6, you will need a good Jobo (or similar) processor to keep the temperature stable. This would cost you maybe $300US.
You need chemicals. In the US, a 5L Kodak E-6 kit costs $60.
So basically you need $360 (give or take $50 or so) to start processing E-6.
For each 5L kit, you can get 20 uses of chemicals, since it take 250ml for 2 rolls of 120, 1 roll of 220, or 2 rolls of 35mm film (up to 36exp). I'll use medium format for my calculations. So, that's $3 per shot.
It costs $7/roll of 120 or $10/roll of 220 film.
If you don't reuse your chemicals at all, you can develop 2 rolls of 120 for $3, so you are saving $7x2 - $3 = $11
So for each shot, you save $11. Since you can get 20 sessions from one 5L kit, by the end of that kit, you have saved $220. You've already paid to make up 2/3 of your initial investment. You till save another $220 with your next kit, after spending another $60 for the chemicals, so
Total spent = 300 + 60 + 60 = $420
Total saved = 220 + 220 = $440
You have now made up for all your expenses. From then on, for each 5L kit you go through, you will save $220 - $60 = $160.
But wait. You can actually reuse the chemicals without any degredation. I almost always do. I've reused them TWICE, in fact, although by that time, things can start getting fishy, so I'd stick with reusing just once. What does that mean? For each $3 shot of 250ml of chemicals, you can develop up to 4 rolls of 120, 2 rolls of 220, ro 2 rolls of 120 + 1 roll of 220.
If you develop 4 rolls of 120 each session (just save up enough film till you have 4 that needs developing), you will save
$7x4 = $28 - $3 = $25.
Yes, for each session, you save $25. By the time you finish your first 5L kit, you will have saved $25x20 = $500.
You have not only saved enough money to pay for all your expenses ($360), but you are now $140 in the black.
For each E-6 kit you go through, from there on, you save $500-$60 = $440.
That is huge.
Now, it's true that in order to make those kind of savings, you need to shoot enough film so that you can go through the chemicals before they go bad. To make those kind of huge savings, you need to shoot and develop 4 rolls * 20 = 80 rolls of 120 before the chemicals go bad. I've personally had chemicals lying around for 3-4 months without any problems. Still you need to be shooting around 20 rolls a month which might be a lot.
I've found that it works great when you're sharing the chemicals with at least one other person. Then you only need to shoot at half the pace.
Anyway, my 2c. _________________ Sony α7R, Pentax 67II, Kiev-60, Hasselblad 203FE, 903SWC, Graflex Norita 66, Mamiya M645 1000s, Burke & James 8x10, Graflex Pacemaker Speed Graphic (4x5 and 3x4), Century Graphic (2x3), R.B. Graflex Seried D, Rolleiflex SL66E, Rolleiflex 2.8C Xenotar, Mamiya C330f, a few M42, six P6, three OM, four Hasselblad, two Pentax 67, two Mamiya 645, one Noritar, and a sprinkle of EF. Oh, and an Aero Ektar and Leica Noctilux |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
rawhead wrote: |
Actually, you do save a huge amount. Let me show you the calculation. |
That was a fantastic comparison! Thank you for doing the work to show us the numbers.
I suppose the hardest part would be the nature of the costs... With the lab, it would be a few bucks here and there (but indefinitely)... whereas the home dev setup is a lot of money all up front...
Sharing chemicals is a great idea. Do you also share the equipment (Jobo processor, etc)? If you can work out that sort of arrangement with a friend, you could cut your initial costs in half. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Very nice natural colours in your shot Paul. My Provia shots have always had a cold, blue/magenta cast which I don't like too much. Is this a different film? I haven't heard about it till now. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Well, I don't know what film you were shooting so I can't really say. I think this is the modern version of the emulsion. Maybe the light in Greece favours it. For scanning - and presumably in printing - it is easy enough to twitch the white balance a bit. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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