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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject: It's Got To Be A Horrible Piece of Junk... |
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magkelly wrote:
Seems nobody wanted it but me, but it's mine for $12.11 plus a couple of bucks to ship. This can't be good. I was watching it all week, but I really expected it to go well out of my range. I've never seen a 500MM lens of any sort go for so little. It's got to be BAD, right?
Sunagor 1:8 f=500mm #6574972
Looks okay, except for some obvious finger prints, no fungus that I can see. I think it has an M42 screw mount or might be a T-mount so either way I think I can use it and for a mere $12 I'm going to try it out regardless.
I did some reading earlier and I thought at first this was an old mirror lens, but I'm not really sure. I read something about not being able to change the aperture on those and this one you can do that.
It's got this thing that looks like O-C on it (Open, close, I think?) but it goes from F8-F22 and back again both ways. It definitely looks like a T-mount kind of thing to me. I don't know if the other M42 T-mount from my other one would work on it or not? Maybe?
Anyone got one of these? Is it really horrid? Is it a mirror lens or not? It would be fun if it was semi-decent. This one's going to make my 300MM look tiny by comparison. I wonder how heavy it is? I figure it can't be too heavy, if so the shipping was just incredibly cheap for what it was.
Pics here...
http://images.shopgoodwill.com/57/8-5-2010/sa387608785-ch.jpg
http://images.shopgoodwill.com/57/8-5-2010/sa153789785-ch.jpg
http://images.shopgoodwill.com/57/8-5-2010/sa387608785-ch.jpg
Last edited by magkelly on Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:00 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Its not a mirror, its a long telephoto of a simple design.
Quite a common lens, these types are still in production.
Image quality can be very good, but this seems to depend mostly on the individual lens. Some are OK, some are useless. Quality control was quite spotty I think. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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magkelly wrote:
So likely no donuts in the background with this one then? Well then maybe I didn't just totally waste that $12! Honestly I didn't "need" it but at that price I just couldn't say "no" to it. This is the biggest lens I can ever see me having a practical use for really. If anyone has one I'd love to see some pics. I'm really looking forward to taking this one out on the tripod for birding. I'm hoping it's halfway decent anyway. |
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Boomer Depp
Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Posts: 552 Location: Kingston,Washighton
Expire: 2011-12-04
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Boomer Depp wrote:
Hard to go wrong for $12...if it doesn't work out,take some decent pix with it cleaned up and probably sell for more then you paid including shipping on ebay...on the other hand if it produces decent images,you got a deal....usually these lens are quite light in weight....you may have to buy a T-mount adapter on ebay,but they are relatively cheap as well....http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A15%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1&rt=nc&_nkw=T+mount+adapter&_dmpt=Lens_Accessories&_ipg=200&_sc=1&_sop=15&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1514 _________________ Trust that little voice in your head that says "Wouldn't it be interesting if...." And then do it. |
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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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magkelly wrote:
I might have one already, M42. That Vivitar I bought had some sort of T-mount. I can't remember exactly which at the moment but I think it was a T-2 also. If not they have them on Amazon for like $9. I looked. There were 3 people who bid on this one apparently besides me. I'm actually surprised it didn't go for much, much more. Usually you see a 500MM lens and they're going for quite a tidy sum. I'm probably going to be happy even if it's only mediocre. With my budget I never thought I'd even have a 500MM so if it turns out it's decent I'll be positively thrilled! |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
T, T2, same thing.
Using a long tele like this takes some practice. Motion and focus problems can make a good lens look awful, and on a 500mm these are both magnified.
First rule is to use as fast a shutter speed as you can manage, which means wide-open shooting most of the time. Which leads to problem #1, accurate focus, as depth of field for a 500mm even at f/8 is very shallow.
If you are using a DSLR its a bit of a challenge to get focus perfectly on, certainly the focus confirm feature is almost never accurate enough. We all have our ways of attacking this problem. I bracket focus mostly. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
I bracket focus mostly. |
Essential. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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magkelly wrote:
I'm not, yet. No DSLR here. I haven't been able to swing one as yet. I'm still shooting analog with the SLR lenses. This lens will be going on my SPII and I will definitely be using it with a tripod. This is my first lens above 300MM and I haven't had all that much experience with my 300MM as yet. So I am a total novice at this extra long lens thing. I mainly got them because I really like watching birds and we have such a large population of different kinds here. Even if the pictures aren't perfect at least I can still get some of them on film and hopefully later digital. My Fuji P&S is upscale, but it still just isn't up to it taking pics of the feathered ones.
We have tons of song birds, corvis birds, ducks, geese, herons, hawks, owls, buzzards, eagles, even wild parrots sometimes. Also squirrel, rabbits, deer, raccoons, possum, weasels, medium to large sized wild cats, even bear, locally. This place is a nature trail in the middle of suburbia and I'm missing a lot of it just by virtue of the non-capacity of my old digital. This lens may be old, but it just might level the playing field and give me a bit more reach. |
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nemesis101
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 2050 Location: Oregon USA
Expire: 2015-01-22
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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nemesis101 wrote:
I like my Panny L-1 with live view and x 10 magnification of any slected area.. very very accurate if a bit time consuming?
But then mostly I use lenses like this to capture distant objects that I cannot approach (like the top of a mountain) which are not really of the fast-moving variety? lol
Doug
woodrim wrote: |
luisalegria wrote: |
I bracket focus mostly. |
Essential. |
_________________ Lenses and cameras:
Amateurs worry about equipment
Pros worry about money,
Masters worry about light. |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Hopefully you've got a good copy and an enormous lens! The only problem I've found with this style of lens (mostly the 300mm model) is a cloudy rear element which cannot be cured = less contrast than normal.
Fingers crossed you've got a good one _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I've got this design as a "Beroflex 8/500".
This lens is sharper than my Tamron SP 8/500 mirror lens.
(And still I like the Tammy more.) _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
magkelly wrote: |
I'm not, yet. No DSLR here. I haven't been able to swing one as yet. |
You really can get into a DSLR for pretty cheap. I chose to buy a refurb of an older model, the SONY A200. After I sold my P&S I was only into it all by less than $200. Of course I made up for that with the cost of all these manual lenses. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:46 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
magkelly wrote: |
I'm not, yet. No DSLR here. I haven't been able to swing one as yet. I'm still shooting analog with the SLR lenses. This lens will be going on my SPII and I will definitely be using it with a tripod. This is my first lens above 300MM and I haven't had all that much experience with my 300MM as yet. So I am a total novice at this extra long lens thing. |
In that case, you're going to have to make your practice shots count. Unfortunately, using a DSLR with its instant feedback is one of the best ways to get used to the long/heavy lenses... oh well.
A few tips I can think of:
* When using the lens on a tripod, be aware of oscillations... ie, even with a sturdy tripod, the mass and leverage of the lens can still allow it to move, and sometimes just grabbing the body is enough to make the whole assembly shake in a way that takes a surprising amount of time to calm down. I find that when on a tripod, I can get much more steady shots if I also grab the far end of the lens with my left hand, purely to damp the oscillations.
* When shooting handheld, try to use the same grip, supporting the far end of the lens with one hand, and the camera body with the other. Your arms aren't as stable for long periods at long extensions from the body, but this hold trades occasional medium displacements of the lens, instead of the (almost) guaranteed shake that you will get if you keep your hand back by the aperture/focus controls.
* Before making any shots, do some careful checks by eye to ensure that the infinity stop is set correctly on the lens, in particular that it doesn't focus past infinity. With long focus lenses, it is quite common that the objects you are photographing are far away, and being able to just turn the focus until it stops and know that it will be OK (only having to worry about aperture/exposure and stability) is hugely helpful. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:19 am Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
To be fair, I'm sure a lens of this length will handle better on a full frame film camera than a crop sensor DSLR! But then again, the DSLR has high ISO... _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Boomer Depp
Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Posts: 552 Location: Kingston,Washighton
Expire: 2011-12-04
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Boomer Depp wrote:
I've used lenses like these on the Canon 40D,50D and the 5D,and have been more then pleased with the results.I also have a Nikon D300 that I used a few of these lenses on with fine results.On my old Nikon D40 it was still OK,but not enough for large prints like the other cameras.The 5D gave the best results for large prints,followed by the D300 and 50D being about equal.I've also used lenses of this type on my old Nikon SLR's with surprisingly good results as well. _________________ Trust that little voice in your head that says "Wouldn't it be interesting if...." And then do it.
Last edited by Boomer Depp on Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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xjjohnno
Joined: 07 Apr 2009 Posts: 1270 Location: Melbourne Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:17 am Post subject: |
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xjjohnno wrote:
Mag with bird pics I get the best results if I concentrate on getting the eyes sharp. The rest falls into place then. With f8 the viewfinder is going to be very gloomy so you might find using the lens on brighter days a better option. |
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Boomer Depp
Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Posts: 552 Location: Kingston,Washighton
Expire: 2011-12-04
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:35 am Post subject: |
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Boomer Depp wrote:
I do the same making sure the eye of the bird is spot on...I would also recommend a high ISO film to keep your shutter speed up,and allowing you to stop the lens down to f11 or if possible f16 for sharper image after initially focusing at f8. _________________ Trust that little voice in your head that says "Wouldn't it be interesting if...." And then do it. |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:00 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Hi xjjohnno
Sorry for jumping in but what camera do you use?I just picked up the K200D and I am working through all this myself I know how hard it is with a slr _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Joosep
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 305 Location: Estonia, Tallinn
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:24 am Post subject: |
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Joosep wrote:
ManualFocus-G wrote: |
To be fair, I'm sure a lens of this length will handle better on a full frame film camera than a crop sensor DSLR! But then again, the DSLR has high ISO... |
Higher ISO and lower dynamic range.
ISO 1600 or 3200 film is so much more dynamic than any sensor.
These are pictures inside the Notre-Dame.
Both 1/30 and same lens on f4.5
This is the digital, ISO 1000.
Same lens on film, Fuji 800.
(The digital was in RAW and I tried to resurrect as much as possible) _________________ The future is analogue.
23 cameras, 25 lenses and counting. |
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xjjohnno
Joined: 07 Apr 2009 Posts: 1270 Location: Melbourne Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 10:00 am Post subject: |
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xjjohnno wrote:
Mo, K20D Pentax for me. I have no experience with your K200D but it's worth investigating the different ISOs to see how much you can use without ugly levels of noise kicking in. The anti shake/ image stabilisation is a must for hand helds too and will give you more tolerance in shutter speeds as long as you time those pics for when the little sods are less likely tro move too much. When the birds are doing there usual write their own script and moving around a lot you need to predict those times the might keep still long enough for a decent pic.
Here's one from last weekend when the good lady was playing magpie tamer, Bigma was the lens in use but you can see the predictive coming in for the pic.
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 10:33 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Awesome...I need the longer lens.I think magkellys lens size would do _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Big Dawg
Joined: 28 Jan 2009 Posts: 2530 Location: Thach Alabama
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Big Dawg wrote:
woodrim wrote: |
magkelly wrote: |
I'm not, yet. No DSLR here. I haven't been able to swing one as yet. |
You really can get into a DSLR for pretty cheap. I chose to buy a refurb of an older model, the SONY A200. After I sold my P&S I was only into it all by less than $200. Of course I made up for that with the cost of all these manual lenses. |
Sounds like me 5 years ago.... _________________ Big Dawg |
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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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magkelly wrote:
I'm hoping to go there soon. I want to get a Pentax *ist at least or maybe a K10/K100. They're running about $200-300 now depending upon what lens comes with. Ideally I'd like to be able to swing a K-x or a K-7 but I don't know if I am going to be able to go there.
I'm trying to sell off a few nice things to pay for it, but so far not much luck there. I have some nice jewelry, but I can't seem to sell it for much right now. Maybe around the holidays they'll go. About the only other thing I have that I know would sell right off is my 3 Takumars. Of course if I sell those I've got nothing decent to put on my DSLR so that would be rather counter productive.
I'm actually hoping that Santa might bring me a used one. I've got a wallpaper of the K-x on the computer desktop in several different colors, pics of the *ist, K100 and the K-7 on the cork board right above my desk. I'm not exactly being subtle about it, grin. I do doubt the K-x or K-7 would end up under the tree, That is a lot of money for us right now, but an *ist or a K10/K100 used just maybe.... |
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magkelly
Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 182
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Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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magkelly wrote:
Sun's not a problem here. We usually have a fair amount of it for most of the year. I never did get though how some people manage to get pics of birds where they don't look like they are stuffed. I can get the bodies okay, but unless they're moving any bird I take a pic of just standing tends to look like it's quite dead. I love taking pics of the crows and herons, but 90% of the pics I've done so far, the bird looks all glassy eyed like a taxidermist has been at it.
xjjohnno wrote: |
Mag with bird pics I get the best results if I concentrate on getting the eyes sharp. The rest falls into place then. With f8 the viewfinder is going to be very gloomy so you might find using the lens on brighter days a better option. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10961 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
A problem with these slower long lenses is the light weight; too easy to vibrate. A heavier lens doesn't vibrate as easily.
More stabilization suggestions:
Tie a bag full of rocks to bottom end of tripod post.
Not practical for birding, for long exposures drape a 1lb/0.5kg leg weight over the front part of lens barrel to help dampen swing vibrations. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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