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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008
Posts: 2772
Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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 Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:36 am Post subject: Any tips on using Flash with Long Exposure |
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my_photography wrote:
I was out few days ago trying to shoot long exposure photos with people standing in front. The shots easily a few seconds as it is at night. The people is very blur even when flash is used. Any tips?
The joke is I was using timer and tripod to shoot myself and most of the photos, I don't even turned up even with flash. What did I do wrong?
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Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
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mmelvis
Joined: 24 May 2010
Posts: 1326
Location: Florida,USA
Expire: 2015-05-09
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:08 am Post subject: |
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mmelvis wrote:
Can we get some information on the lens that was used,camera setting, distance of the camera to the person you were trying to take a picture of. |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008
Posts: 2772
Location: Pearl of the Orient
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:26 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
Here is a sample of what I was trying to shoot as the background.
I try shooting with 20mm and 28mm. This particular photo if I remember correctly was shot with a 28mm, aperture around f5.6-f8, speed 2-6 seconds. I setup the tripod and timer and dash and stand so I guess maybe 8-10 meters from the camera. I tried various flash setting at 1/4, 1/2 and even 1. Not much difference.
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Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10787
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:52 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I have never tried this; I don't know. Sharing my thoughts, which might be wrong. 
Just checking, the flash fired when you were standing in position, correct? Then I can say obviously the flash had not enough effect at that distance to brighten you enough to be seen in photo.
8-10 meters is pretty far; flash at half that distance would be 4 times more powerful.
My flash has an adjustable lens for wide angle, normal, and telephoto; in this situation, even with wide angle lens, I would use telephoto position to throw flash beam farthest.
Some cameras have 'second curtain sync' setting which fires flash at end of exposure instead of at the beginning; that seems necessary here so flash doesn't fire before you are in position.
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M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1888
Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 4:44 am Post subject: Re: Any tips on using Flash with Long Exposure |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
visualopsins is right on with all of his advice. 
I think that this is a revealing clue:
| my_photography wrote: |
| The shots easily a few seconds as it is at night. The people is very blur even when flash is used. |
If you have a long exposure flash shot and the people are blurry, then this confirms that a substantial portion of the exposure of the people is coming from ambient light, and not from the flash.
So to solve that condition, you need to change the lighting on the subjects such that a significant portion comes purely from the flash, with a much smaller portion coming from ambient light. To do this, you pretty much need a brighter flash, a shorter exposure time, or a combination of the two.
Or friends who are better at holding still. 
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Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
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Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008
Posts: 2772
Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:14 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
Thanks visualopsins & Scheimpflug.
I did try setting the flash for 20mm up till 100mm that day. I even tried to use a flash with 'second curtain sync' with my camera but there were not much difference. I could be standing too far. Just out of curiosity, how was this type of photo taken last time when there were no '2nd curtain' flash technology?
_________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 6943
Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Try this:
Take a shot using manual and no flash, see what settings you need to corrrectly expose for the ambient whilst keeping a shutter speed of 1/15. Set the shutter to 1/30 and set the flash to give enough power to illuminate the people (or use TTL).
Flash isn't affected by shutter speed so you have to try and balance things here.It really is a tricky one to do and looks like it will have to be a compromise due to the lack of ambient light.
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