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Lucky SHD-100 BW film accidentally shot at ISO 375
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Lucky SHD-100 BW film accidentally shot at ISO 375 Reply with quote

Hi folks

I shot a roll of Chinese Lucky SHD-100 BW film in my Carenar SRH-760 and only after unloading I noticed the film speed dial had been accidentally set to 375.

So the film will be underexposed and I will need to extend dev times.

Anyone got any idea how long I should dev this film in Ilford Microphen?


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TMAX 100 should be developed for 11 mins with 1:1 Microphen, but I can't find any dev time info for this Lucky brand film.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How important is this roll to you? About the only recommendation I can make is to develop some test strips, varying developing time, and see how they work out.

Having said that though, I've taken severely underexposed B&W negatives and managed to extract a lot of usable detail from them in post processing.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
How important is this roll to you? About the only recommendation I can make is to develop some test strips, varying developing time, and see how they work out.

I would second this idea.

If the photos are important enough, just shoot one more roll of Lucky SHD-100 at the same setting of 375, preferably with each frame of the exact same image so that comparisons are easy. Then when developing, just cut off a few frames at a time, and develop them separately with a variety of development times.

When you are done, just pick the one that looks the best, and develop your "real" roll with that dev time. Cool


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too late, my dad has thrown all my chemicals out, 'don't want caustic chemicals in the house'.

Guess that's the end of my photo developing.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can go the Caffenol route and then stash the fixer under your bed or something. Cool


PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer. Sad

Can you keep anything in a garage or shed?


PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try this link to mix your own fixer

http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/plain.htm


PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Too late, my dad has thrown all my chemicals out, 'don't want caustic chemicals in the house'.

Guess that's the end of my photo developing.


Ah, "faith and begorra, me lassie child, 'tis a wee fair sight for Irish eyes", another man after my own heart!

Sorry about that. Toxic disposal/pollution of the Land is the one thing keeping me from my film own developing at home until I solve that problem. I live in a sensitive Salmon watershed, in the forest on a ridge. I simply cannot justify spilling that stuff on the ground here.


PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mmelvis wrote:
You can try this link to mix your own fixer

http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/plain.htm


Thanks for the link!

I will have to take some time to digest that... I was reading along thinking how neat it was that citric acid could replace the acetic acid, and that Borax could replace the Kodalk... but then I realized that for a non-hardening fixer for modern film (the "plain fix"), neither of these is required anyway! Wink

... But I have read in other places that sodium thiosulfate isn't as good in terms of archival stability, and that ammonium thiosulfate fixers should be used instead? Question


PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

erm maybe next time, try C41 B/W film and get it developed at Tesco for 99p Wink


PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scheimpflug wrote:
mmelvis wrote:
You can try this link to mix your own fixer

http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/plain.htm


Thanks for the link!

I will have to take some time to digest that... I was reading along thinking how neat it was that citric acid could replace the acetic acid, and that Borax could replace the Kodalk... but then I realized that for a non-hardening fixer for modern film (the "plain fix"), neither of these is required anyway! Wink

... But I have read in other places that sodium thiosulfate isn't as good in terms of archival stability, and that ammonium thiosulfate fixers should be used instead? Question


You will find people who will tell you it is good and other it is not. Did a quick search on apug and found a person who states they have 50 year old negatives that look just as good as the day they developed them using sodium thiosulfate .


PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it was a huge argument and my dad is still pissed off at me, so I will leave it a while. He used to develop films when I was young so it was all rather hypocritical in my view.

I used sodium thiosulphate pentahydrate crystals to make my own fixer, very cheap and seemed to work well.


PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea where you live (not even the continent) but surely there must be some photo club near you, or if in the UK some evening classes with access to a darkroom and developing gear?

I know several UK photogs who attend such classes, and a couple who actually run them, keeping analogue photography alive.

In one hundred years it is quite likely that the media we use today for digital will be unreadable - the cloud notwithstanding, yet all film will require is light and a few chemicals...

It is still the archival medium of choice in many institutions, and try as I might I cannot see what is on my SD card just by staring at the wretched thing whereas even my eyes can tell a picture of a tree on a 35mm negative!

Doug

iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Well, it was a huge argument and my dad is still pissed off at me, so I will leave it a while. He used to develop films when I was young so it was all rather hypocritical in my view.

I used sodium thiosulphate pentahydrate crystals to make my own fixer, very cheap and seemed to work well.


PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There might be one in a town 30 miles away but the photo club here is long defunct, I was a member years ago and the other members were all old people.

I've stirred a lot of interest in photography in my little town last few months, a few friends have asked to accompany me on my shoots to learn from me, some have asked for lessons, three friends have organised a photo day out next weekend, so I might end up starting my own photo club in the end.


PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I've stirred a lot of interest in photography in my little town last few months, a few friends have asked to accompany me on my shoots to learn from me, some have asked for lessons, three friends have organised a photo day out next weekend, so I might end up starting my own photo club in the end.


Would any of your friends be willing to store the chemicals, perhaps in exchange for lessons? Question


PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, as soon as my dad forgets about it I'll just get some more chemicals. My mum was as annoyed as I was he threw em out and in our house, my mum is very much the boss!


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when I _really_ dont have an idea which time to choose for developing, I look at devchart at digital truth

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=SHD&Developer=&mdc=Search

formulas mentioned there are OK. but as always, for perfect results its best to adjust your process for your specific exposition/developing/enlarger/taste


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And they give an idea about push processing too:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc
I think that is worth a try! May be not top notch reults but for this case it can be good enough.
Certainly if the pictures are not that unique that you want to go through the proces with extra testfilm as described before.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian, check out OldSchoolPhotoLab.com. E-mail them with your issue and see if they can push or pull (I forget which) the developing to correct for the mistake. It should be an extra $2 per roll, but they're extremely good at their work and might know how to fix this no muss and no fuss.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips guys.

BTW, Tesco dev isn't 99p, I should know, I work for them, it's 1.97.

I don't find it very helpful making a snide comment like that, I have some C-41 BW film, why would I have shot that when I was planning to develop it at home? It's a 55 mile round trip to the nearest Tesco that does photo dev, remember, I live in a very remote place, Asda is the same distance, the small Tesco here where I work doesn't do photo dev.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where does he store his bleach or Harpic I wonder? Get yourself a nice heavy safe Ian! Smile

You might find what you need to know about push processing on the Ilford site:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=88&t=Developing+Black+and+white+film


PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad hasn't been very well, it made him rather grumpy, he didn't even speak to me for a week recently, but he's getting back to normal now, even came for a walk with me today. It is his poor health that made me just forget all about processing film for a while, better to avoid any arguments, he's getting old and I worry about him a lot, very unusual for my dad to be grumpy.

I'll get some more dev and shoot some more film soon, I have the exposed Lucky BW film sat here and will get round to processing it.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But you need thiosulphate to counter cyanide poisoning!


PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cistron wrote:
But you need thiosulphate to counter cyanide poisoning!


Hehehehe! I didn't know that!