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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:33 am Post subject: Volna-3 repair guide |
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Plokko wrote:
I recieved a volna-3 with(A LOT!!!)of oil on the blades and i wanted to open it but there wasn't any guide on how to open it so i've figured out myself and now i'm posting a guide for you.
The process isn't difficult but a little tricky,if you know the few "tricks" it won't be a difficult process.
Sorry for the photos but i don't have my dslr,it's on rma;i had to use my powershot g6(good camera but not for macro or closeup flash)!
First of all there's the lens scheme i found on the web:
we'll start from the back,note the orientation of the back plate for when you'll mount it back in place
unscrew the 3 screws and remove the back plate,you'll see something like this
note the two pieces pushing the diaphragm,you'll need to pay attention to them later.
Remove the diaphragm ring and pay EXTREME attention to the ball,in my case it wasn't loose but i removed it so it won't fall later and then remove the manual switch(yeah i know i didn't the first time! )
now we'll start with the front,fist of all remove the name plate,in my case it wasn't so difficult and i used only my hands to rotate it without any damage.
_________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/
Last edited by Plokko on Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:07 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:34 am Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
now you have two options:
unmount all the three lens or simply keep them together and unmount the third lens block with the first and second,i figured it out later on.
If you want to avoid removing all the three lenses simply unscrew the external ring,it may help you unscrewing also the primary lens (without touching the lens)to give you some space for unscrewing and then put it back together.
if you do so you'll have something like this
if you want to remove all the lens(for cleaning purpouses for example)simply unscrew the primary lens ring(with your hands)
and then extract the primary and secondary lens with it's spacer,NOTE how the spacer is placed or you'll probably mount it wrong.
(when you'll mount the second lens back in place you'll need to center it,the simplest way is to keep the barrel upside down and push the lens back in place withe the spacer from the bottom)
now if you haven't done it already unscrew and extract(with your hands)the third lens block
now you should see the diaphragm blades
remove the ring,note that the black side is facing up.
now unscrew from the back the three screws holding the lens barrel like so
now you need to push with your hands on the diagraph to remove the barrel,PAY ATTENTION on the piece of metal pushing the diagraph and the manual switch,they may block the barrel and you may break them in the process,for example i didn't realyze i missed the manual switch,i didn't damage it but it leaved a scratch on the barrel,nothing serius and it helped me remount the barrel back in the currect position!
now you need first to unscrew the three micro screws on the side of the barrel,after that simply push gently the black diaphragm block from the side and you'll have something like this
i clened the blades and put them back in place(it's very easy,not like the 20 tair-3 blades!!! )
that's how to mount them and how they should looks like
if you want to avoid reopen the lens a lot of time to recalibrate the diaphragm simply mount them in the diaphragm barrel,now note the mark on the black plate(please note also what part of the barrel is facing)this will helps you calibrate the diaphragm without any problem;put it in place as shown.
now you need to rotate the black diaphragm plate until the mark reach the mark on the top of the barrel(see the picture below),then simply screw the microscrew in place(holding the plate in position with one finger)to lock it in place.
Now the hard work it's done,simply mount all toghether and follow my tips on how to mount everything back in place and have a drink!
(it's a temporary cap i've made out of a plastic glass,it was like 1:00am or later so i didn't have the time to make something better! )
You can find all the photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Plokko.foto/Volna3Repair02# _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/
Last edited by Plokko on Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:28 pm; edited 10 times in total |
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:34 am Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
sorry for my engrish!
hope you'll enjoy this guide! _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/ |
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wilson.c
Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 363 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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wilson.c wrote:
Excellent documentation!! _________________ Wilson
DSLR: Canon 5DMkII, 500D + Panasonic GF-1
SLR: Canon T90, Canon F1, Canon A1, Canon AE1 + Rolleiflex SL66 + Bronica ETRs
R'finder: Contax G1, G2 + Leica M6, M3 + Contax II
Lenses
M42: Angenieaux 90/1.8
Canon: FD 50/3.5 Macro, FD 80/1.8, FD 80-200L/4
Contax G: CZ Hologon 16/8, CZ Biogon 21/2.8, CZ Biogon 28/2.8, CZ Planar 45/2.0, CZ Sonnar 90/2.8
P-Six: CZJ Sonnar 180/2.8, CZJ Biometar 120/2.8
Contax: Distagon 28/2.8, Distagon 28/2, Planar 85/1.4, Makro-Planar 100/2.8
Others: CZ Sonnar 135/3.5 (Hasselblad V mount)
More little ones to be documented.
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:48 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Outstanding work!
This is the sort of thing that can be a real life-saver when you have a lens taken apart and can't get it back together.
Thanks for taking the time to document the process so thoroughly. _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
Finally adapted for my camera!
a GREAT lens,very sharp and great bokeh!
I bought the wrong adapter(for pentacon-six/kiev60 not kiev88 like my volna!!!) but i modified it (sorry only google translated,look only the images! ):
http://translate.google.it/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=it&ie=UTF-8&layout=1&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.minoltasonyclub.it%2Fcms%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php%3Fp%3D317746%23317746&sl=it&tl=en _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/ |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Molte grazie!
I don't have this lens yet but it's on my wishlist. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Wed May 26, 2010 6:29 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008 Posts: 2155 Location: Maine, USA
Expire: 2012-03-08
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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Schnauzer wrote:
Very nice and handy to have tutorial. _________________ Ron |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Mille grazie, guida eccellente ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Molte grazie!
I don't have this lens yet but it's on my wishlist. |
a must buy!!
i have a lot of awesome m42 lens but that's (now)my favourite MF lens!
you can get this lens cheap on the net,if you buy the pentacon six/kiev60 version the adapter(i prefer the pentacon six to m42 because i can use my m42 adapter with chip so i can use the image stabilizer! )it's easyer and cheaper to find;
only note the lens version,some older lens can have a cheap multicoating(compared to the newers).
it's awesome how sharp this lens is,you can shoot at 2.8 with an amazing sharpness and bokeh,you'll need to use closer apertures only for the DOF effect or light condition!
Some samples image http://picasaweb.google.com/Plokko.foto/Volna3# _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/ |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Yep, I already have both the P6>M42 and P6>EOS adapters. I chose a Vega 12B over the Volna 3 but it turned out to have terrible contrast. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Yep, I already have both the P6>M42 and P6>EOS adapters. I chose a Vega 12B over the Volna 3 but it turned out to have terrible contrast. |
take a look there
http://www.kievaholic.com/
this site have a lot of test/tips for kiev compatible lenses! _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/ |
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NiklasGroop
Joined: 08 Jan 2014 Posts: 1 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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NiklasGroop wrote:
Thank you for a great repair guide. I have one question: How do I remove the nameplate in the front? I am trying to fix my lens where the nameplate i loose.
/Niklas |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
Very useful, thanks a lot |
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Plokko
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Posts: 39 Location: Italy
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Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Plokko wrote:
NiklasGroop wrote: |
Thank you for a great repair guide. I have one question: How do I remove the nameplate in the front? I am trying to fix my lens where the nameplate i loose.
/Niklas |
You should be able to unscrew it by carefully applying a little of friction with your hands over the nameplate. _________________ Sony α200 | cosina 19/35 3.5/4.5 | minolta 28-105 3.5/4.5 RS | 100-200 4.5
m42: photosniper(tair-3 300/4.5) | jupiter 21M 200/4 | pentacon electric 135/2.8 | Jupiter 9 | Auto takumar 50/1.4 | 2xPentacon 50/1.8 | Helios-44m-x| macro tubes | novoflex autobellows
volna-3 (kiev 80/2.8 )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/plokko/sets/ |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4747 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:02 am Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
NiklasGroop wrote: |
Thank you for a great repair guide. I have one question: How do I remove the nameplate in the front? I am trying to fix my lens where the nameplate i loose.
/Niklas |
I have made a series of tools to do this job. Simply put, they are rings of various sizes made to fit a particular lens originally but its just a ring of plastic - a deodorant cap is good, or any spray cap - they are different sizes.
I sand down the edges of the open end then glue a length of leather shoelace to it all the way round. I use plenty of epoxy resin. Place the cap leather down and put a light weight on top just enough to glue it evenly all round. Make sure the rough side of the leather faces out.
The grip of the leather is usually enough to unscrew the bezel (nameplate). If its not enough, wet it a little, if that's not enough, paint a little rubber solution (from bike puncture repair kits) round the edge of the leather and let it dry overnight. That always does it. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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