View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
NikonAIS
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 23 Mar 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Pawleys Island, SC, US
|
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 12:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
NikonAIS wrote:
You can't go wrong with a Nikon FTn or F2. The only downside to the FTn is very few still have operable meters. _________________ Nikon FTn, F2A, F3HP, F4E, F5, Nikkormat FT2, Nikon FE-2, Nikonos V, D850, D500 and D750. 8mm f/2.8 AIS, 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye AIS, 15mm f/3.5 AIS, 18mm f/3.5 AIS, 24mm f/2 AIS, 28mm f/2 AIS, 28mm f/3.5 Nikkor H non-AI, 25-50mm f/4 AIS, 28mm f/3.5 and 35mm f/2.8 UW-Nikkors, 35mm f/1.4 AIS, 50mm f/1.4 AIS, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor-S, 50-135mm f/3.5 AIS, 55mm f/2.8 AIS Micro w/ PK-13, 80-200mm f/4 AIS, 85mm f/1.4 AIS, 105mm f/1.8 AIS, 10.5 cm f/2.5 non-AI, 105mm f/2.8 AIS Micro, 135mm f/2 AIS, 180mm f/2.8 ED AIS, 200mm f/4 Micro AIS and PN-11, 200mm f/2 ED-IF AIS, 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF AIS, 400mm f/2.8 ED-IF AIS, 500mm f/8 Reflex, 600mm f/4 ED-IF AIS, TC14B and TC300.
Hasselblad 500CM with PM-90 eye level finder and assorted A12 and A16 backs, Carl Zeiss C and CF T* 40mm f/4. 60mm f/3.5. 80mm f/2.8, 150mm f/4 and 250mm f/5.6
AF lenses are for sissies! |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
kansalliskala
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5036 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
|
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 7:12 am Post subject: |
|
|
kansalliskala wrote:
NikonAIS wrote: |
You can't go wrong with a Nikon FTn or F2. The only downside to the FTn is very few still have operable meters. |
I had one, without the meter of course. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
paulhofseth
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 571 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
|
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 7:30 am Post subject: robustness |
|
|
paulhofseth wrote:
the original question was whether there was an SLR or a rangefinder that one could toss into a car without worry
I maintain that robustness should refer to ability to take pictures regardless of age and that battery dependent ancillary functions may be disregarded.
-Yes, the Nikonos brick is not an RF and its fiddly spring-loaded battery chamber lid might hasten its demise, but the Leicas remain strong contenders-.
Apart from being more coddled, and sometimes resting on a shelf, a halfways fair measure of longevity would be to have a count of the number of working Nikons and Leicas observed in the wild divided by the original numbers sold. Assuming that owners were equally likely to still be using film.
p. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 8:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
If we're gonna include rangefinders:
For years, I've kept a rangefinder around for just this purpose -- being tossed around and taking it: The Canon QL-17 GIII. Its meter may not always be operable, but its shutter has never quit on me. Sometimes called the "poor man's Leica" it always manages to take good pics. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 4:59 pm Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Currently I have a Nikon F-301, Olympus OM-10 and Canon T-50. All of them sort of electronic and/or fragile.
But I really want a camera that I can toss to a car seat and not worry if it bounces on the floor. |
In the mean time ... did you make your choice? Or do you still need advice ... ? _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
kansalliskala
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5036 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
|
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 6:01 am Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
|
|
kansalliskala wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
In the mean time ... did you make your choice? Or do you still need advice ... ? |
Actually not, thanks for asking. I found out that a Minolta XG-1 is surprisingly robust combined with a half-case. Tried a Zenit ET for few weeks but it is just too rustic.
This thread has its own life and is valuable in itself. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 4:35 pm Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
In the mean time ... did you make your choice? Or do you still need advice ... ? |
Actually not, thanks for asking. I found out that a Minolta XG-1 is surprisingly robust combined with a half-case. Tried a Zenit ET for few weeks but it is just too rustic. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
Ah OK ... If yours should fail I have a few spares here ...
kansalliskala wrote: |
This thread has its own life and is valuable in itself. |
Sure!
Greetings to Suomi (actually the small tree shown in my websites "artaphot" logo was shot in the Pallastunturi area, many moons ago ...) _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
kansalliskala
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5036 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
|
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 5:38 am Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
|
|
kansalliskala wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
Greetings to Suomi (actually the small tree shown in my websites "artaphot" logo was shot in the Pallastunturi area, many moons ago ...) |
I didn't know anyone come see "mountains" of Finland from Switzerland.
Or maybe you see them as nice hills. ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 3:50 pm Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Or maybe you see them as nice hills. ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
That's quite accurate
However, it's much calmer up there in the north, compared to our mountains ... _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
paulhofseth
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 571 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
|
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 6:41 am Post subject: calmer is not just highwinds |
|
|
paulhofseth wrote:
how about mosquitos and gnats. On a long walk from the finnish border out to the Norwegian fjords wdedecided to walk at night, since the biting inhabitants were less active then.
p. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
paulhofseth
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 571 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
|
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 8:00 am Post subject: on topic |
|
|
paulhofseth wrote:
so in addition to this geographical digression I should add at that time my robust machine was a leica IIIc with its collapsible summicron, which fit snugly into my anorak breast pocket unperturbed by the gnats that managed to sneak through the wrinkkles of its elastic wrist covers- The camera would not have taken kindly to being submerged, but did stand up to being knocked about.
p. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 6:18 pm Post subject: Re: on topic |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
paulhofseth wrote: |
how about mosquitos and gnats. On a long walk from the finnish border out to the Norwegian fjords wdedecided to walk at night, since the biting inhabitants were less active then.
p. |
Uhhm ... my then girlfriend (she had been working in Finland for about one year) was wise enough to suggest a first visit in Feb/March, which was great. A second time we went there in October, no problems with gnats and midges as well ...
paulhofseth wrote: |
so in addition to this geographical digression I should add at that time my robust machine was a leica IIIc with its collapsible summicron, which fit snugly into my anorak breast pocket unperturbed by the gnats that managed to sneak through the wrinkkles of its elastic wrist covers- The camera would not have taken kindly to being submerged, but did stand up to being knocked about.
p. |
I was using one my trusty Minolta 9000 cameras back then, with only a MinAF 2.8/20, the 1.4/50 and the 2.8/200 APO G. There was never a problem with the camera/lenses, even at around -25° when I was shooting the small tree now seen in the artaphot logo ...
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
paulhofseth
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 571 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
|
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:40 pm Post subject: robustness as climate toleration |
|
|
paulhofseth wrote:
gnats would not affect cameras, but in my experience, even mild, minus 10C ,conditions necessitated wrapping the camera well when entering a warm room or the lens would fog up internally and be unusable for quite a long time. Happened once to one of my takumars, Nice snaps of skiing and snow crystals however.
So for ultimate weather resistance I still recommend the Nikonos. to me it is not just about the satisfaction of owning the most robust device of its species sitting on a shelf, but it entails that in particularly inclement weather I take an Ilford XP out of the fridge and go out to take pictures.
p |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 1:47 pm Post subject: Re: robustness as climate toleration |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
paulhofseth wrote: |
gnats would not affect cameras, but in my experience, even mild, minus 10C ,conditions necessitated wrapping the camera well when entering a warm room or the lens would fog up internally and be unusable for quite a long time. |
Yes, that's a common problem ... but even a Nikonos would be unusable in said conditions: The outside of the lens (and the viewfinder) would just mist over ...
That said, the Minolta 9000 was remarkably unshaken by low temperature. Of course Ni-Cd accus were a must both in Finland as well as (during winter times) in Swiss mountains. _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
paulhofseth
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 571 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
|
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 3:41 pm Post subject: cold conditions |
|
|
paulhofseth wrote:
Yes, condensation on the outside but not inside and that clears up with heat-
Nicads were not particularly effective in the cold, For my Beaulieu S.8 I soldered together some accumulators to keep in my reasonably warm pocket with a long lead to the camera, but to keep the quite large schneider vario something from condensation afterwards was another matter
p. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:46 pm Post subject: Re: cold conditions |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
paulhofseth wrote: |
Nicads were not particularly effective in the cold
p. |
Sure ... but better than ordinary batteries
Remember that the 9000 did not have a built-in winder or motor for film advance; thus its energy consumption was quite limited, especially if AF was turned off! I remember that using AF at temperatures <-5°C was cumbersome, but taking images was never a problem.
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
stevemark
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3900 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:47 pm Post subject: Re: cold conditions |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
paulhofseth wrote: |
Nicads were not particularly effective in the cold
p. |
Sure ... but better than ordinary batteries
Remember that the 9000 did not have a built-in winder or motor for film advance; thus its energy consumption was quite limited, especially if AF was turned off! I remember that using AF at temperatures <-5°C was cumbersome, but taking images was never a problem.
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
arri
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 13 Jul 2014 Posts: 91
|
Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 5:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
arri wrote:
Every camera can have problems.
Best chioce is a mechanical body but only when it were in use and not stored for years.
A Kodak Retina IIa is one of the most solid camera and very easy to repair when something happens.
It as excellent lenses, Xenon or Heligon 2/50. The folded body is very small and you can carry it in your pocket.
The pictures are in the top level, you can´t distinguish it from pictures made by a Nikon, Leica, Canon etc.
When you find one which have had a complete maintenance and lubed with the new syntetic greases and oils the shutter and other mechanical part won´t be stick anymore again. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
kansalliskala
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5036 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
|
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 5:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
kansalliskala wrote:
I bought a nearly mint Canon EOS 1N, you could call that robust too. ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
james
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Posts: 308
Expire: 2011-12-28
|
Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 2:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
james wrote:
Nikon F3. It will outlast most of its present, previous and original owners. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
kansalliskala
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5036 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
|
Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 6:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
kansalliskala wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
I bought a nearly mint Canon EOS 1N, you could call that robust too. ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
And sold that too ... it was heavy, I had film in it for 6 months and took about 2 pictures.
Now I stick to my trusty champagne Konica C35 EF3, that is sort of rangefinder: you first find the range and then set the zone. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
Doc Sharptail
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 1139 Location: Winnipeg Canada
|
Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 8:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
Doc Sharptail wrote:
Another vote for the battery independent F2 with it's stepless mechanical shutter speeds.
The F3 not so much~ not much better than a paper weight with dead batteries.
The lone single M shutter speed with dead batteries gets old pretty fast.
I prefer the F2 viewfinder over the F3.
Or a Nikkormat FT-2 with similar battery free reliability...
It's focusing screen is an improvement over the Nikkormat FT-n.
-D.S. _________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
RokkorDoctor
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1389 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
|
Posted: Sat May 27, 2023 8:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
RokkorDoctor wrote:
The original question was for a camera that can be treated roughly without sustaining damage.
Most robust camera models mentioned will indeed still work after several significant bumps and shocks, but whether focus/collimation is still spot on would be a different matter.
Rangefinder focus mechanisms are relatively fragile with respect to accurate alignment, and the exacting focus screen position and mirror alignment in SLR's is also quite susceptible to misalignment when treated roughly. You are often talking about (in the case of SLR's sometimes fairly heavy) components that are held in a calibrated position to a ~10 micron accuracy by nothing more than a few tiny set screws. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
Doc Sharptail
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 1139 Location: Winnipeg Canada
|
Posted: Sun May 28, 2023 1:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
Doc Sharptail wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
The original question was for a camera that can be treated roughly without sustaining damage.
Most robust camera models mentioned will indeed still work after several significant bumps and shocks, but whether focus/collimation is still spot on would be a different matter. |
I have had a few nikkormats and at least one F2 here with severely dented pentaprisms. All focused within normal parameters. That particular F2 was severely beaten. It had seen a lot of heavy use. It was still taking great photographs when I sold it off.
There was one story out of Vietnam of either an F- FT-n or a nikkormat ftn taking a 7.62 x 39mm AK or SKS round. Of course the shutter was ruined, but the film inside it yielded usable images up to the last frame before being hit. That camera saved the users life.
-D.S. _________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
HansMoleman
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 12 Jul 2019 Posts: 150 Location: MD USA
|
Posted: Mon May 29, 2023 10:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
HansMoleman wrote:
Didn't read the whole thread so if it's a repeat...well it bears repeating. Nikon FM2n. |
|
Back to top |
|
![](templates/mflenses/images/spacer.gif) |
|