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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3751 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
tb_a wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
Interesting, Thomas. So you prefer your X-500 over your XD-7? It's an XD-11 here in the States, and I'd have to say that, for me, it's a tough call between the two as to which I prefer. Yes, my X-570 has TTL flash, and its viewfinder may be brighter than my XD-11's, but I really love the cool factor of the older camera and the excellence of its build quality. However, I'll admit that I do prefer the X-570's manual mode over that of the XD-11's. |
Michael, I have to admit that the XD7/11 is very cool and the shutter is smoother as well. However, for practical reasons (as already explained) I really prefer the X-500/570. |
Both the XD series as well as the X500/X700 series are very useful SLRs. The XD series feels more "noble", the X-500/X-700 with Motor Drive MD-1 certainly is much easier to use, especially if circumstances are a bit rough. The ergonomics of the X-700/X-500 & MD-1 are very good, much better than the Nikon F3 & MD4 Motor. Of course the MD-1 makes rather loud and disturbing sounds, but that's another story.
Both series have their quirks; the XD is prone to a failure of the mirror damping system, resulting in sluggish and delayed shutter release; the entire X-700/-500/-300 series can have problems with their capacitors.
Since these cameras are cheap and easy to replace, they certainly are a good choice if reliability is not the top priority.
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3751 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Teo wrote: |
...
Don't forget the T series of Konica
... |
I have about a dozen classical T series Konicas (T, T2, T3, T3new) here; they usually came with a lens i wanted to have. Roughly half of them (!) have a stuck shutter. These days, I would not recommend them as a "reliable SLRs" any more.
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 8:51 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
Teo wrote: |
...
Don't forget the T series of Konica
... |
I have about a dozen classical T series Konicas (T, T2, T3, T3new) here; they usually came with a lens i wanted to have. Roughly half of them (!) have a stuck shutter. These days, I would not recommend them as a "reliable SLRs" any more.
Stephan |
...and I wonder how many Konica FS-1 and FT-1s have been thrown away before of electrical faults and someone said the problem is: - the flexible tracks are just clamp together and corrosion or whatever causes problems, well he took his FT-1 top plate off cleaned the tracks and re-clamped and the camera worked again. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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kansalliskalaCafe
Joined: 23 Jul 2015 Posts: 602 Location: South Finland, countryside
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:00 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskalaCafe wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
...and I wonder how many Konica FS-1 and FT-1s have been thrown away before of electrical faults and someone said the problem is: - the flexible tracks are just clamp together and corrosion or whatever causes problems, well he took his FT-1 top plate off cleaned the tracks and re-clamped and the camera worked again. |
I did that, I'm not sure if I told it here. _________________ (my normal account password still on another computer) |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:50 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
kansalliskalaCafe wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
...and I wonder how many Konica FS-1 and FT-1s have been thrown away before of electrical faults and someone said the problem is: - the flexible tracks are just clamp together and corrosion or whatever causes problems, well he took his FT-1 top plate off cleaned the tracks and re-clamped and the camera worked again. |
I did that, I'm not sure if I told it here. |
Did you give instructions on how to take the top plate off to get at the flexible tracks? My FT-1 is half working in that the shutter fires then a wait of about 2 secs before it would fire again and the diodes don't show in the viewfinder...so it's a point and shoot camera ATM. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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konicamera
Joined: 03 May 2009 Posts: 746 Location: Warsaw, Poland
Expire: 2014-06-14
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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konicamera wrote:
Quote: |
...and I wonder how many Konica FS-1 and FT-1s have been thrown away before of electrical faults and someone said the problem is: - the flexible tracks are just clamp together and corrosion or whatever causes problems, well he took his FT-1 top plate off cleaned the tracks and re-clamped and the camera worked again. |
FS-1:
When the shutter release button doesn't operate, a frequent problem, you may be able to fix it. After 2-3 decades, it turned out that this button is prone to dust contamination. If you are meticulous, you can take the button off, clean it, or replace it (there are almost identical ones available).
If the camera has other electronic problems, in the overwhelming majority of cases you can kiss it goodbye. Looks good on the shelf though
FT-1:
The repair mentioned by Excalibur refers to this camera only. It's not corrosion that causes the problem, but the foam which holds the flexi-circuits in place. This foam degrades just like light seals or mirror damping foam, the result being that nothing holds down the flexi-circuits anymore and contact is not assured. The repair consists in replacing the little foam strips (3 of them). Once you get to it, it's easy as pie. For those so inclined, more here (click on each photo to read detailed instructions on how to proceed) :
https://www.flickr.com/photos/15235665@N04/sets/72157623203627474/ _________________
L'homme s'ennuie du bien, cherche le mieux, trouve le mal, et s'y soummet, crainte du pire. - Duc François-Gaston de Lévis
While it is nice to be important, it's more important to be nice.
URL: www.konicafiles.com
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papasito
Joined: 09 Jan 2015 Posts: 1658
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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papasito wrote:
Fuji ST 801
Leicaflex SL and SL2
Contarex B.E.
Spotmatic
Alpa 10D
GAF M42
Nikon series F
Canon FT's
ETc. |
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kansalliskalaCafe
Joined: 23 Jul 2015 Posts: 602 Location: South Finland, countryside
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 8:07 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskalaCafe wrote:
konicamera wrote: |
FT-1:
The repair mentioned by Excalibur refers to this camera only. It's not corrosion that causes the problem, but the foam which holds the flexi-circuits in place. This foam degrades just like light seals or mirror damping foam, the result being that nothing holds down the flexi-circuits anymore and contact is not assured. The repair consists in replacing the little foam strips (3 of them). Once you get to it, it's easy as pie. For those so inclined, more here (click on each photo to read detailed instructions on how to proceed) :
https://www.flickr.com/photos/15235665@N04/sets/72157623203627474/ |
yes, this one exactly
some points:
on / off -switch is slightly tricky to reinstall
I used foam that goes under vinyle floor tiles folded, I think the thinner the foam the better _________________ (my normal account password still on another computer) |
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LarryHuffman
Joined: 18 Mar 2019 Posts: 4 Location: United States
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:12 pm Post subject: Canon Rangefinder |
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LarryHuffman wrote:
I have just created a couple of days ago a website devoted to Canon rangefinders and lenses 1936 to 1975
https://www.canonrangefinder.org
This is still a work in process, but is maybe half complete. I have also added two pages on Minolta-35 cameras and lenses and
I hope to add pages on Leotax, Nicca, Reid, and other historic rangefinders using the M39 screw mount.
Have a look... hope you will find of interest. Also, all corrections, additions, comments welcome at
huffman@gmx.com
thanks, Larry _________________ Larry Huffman
https://www.canonrangefinder.org
huffman@gmx.com |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 3:28 am Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
Both series have their quirks; the XD is prone to a failure of the mirror damping system, resulting in sluggish and delayed shutter release; the entire X-700/-500/-300 series can have problems with their capacitors. |
The positive here is that the piston on XD is ridiculously easy to access - resealing and reskinning will take more time.
Re: capacitors - I'm not sure I am buying that. All references lead to one successful repair. Personally, I've only been able revive a Minolta by replacing a capacitor once, and there it was obvious once I removed the bottom cover that the electrolytic cap has popped. OTOH, X-700 service manual provides multiple reasons for the malfunction ascribed to the capacitor failure. |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3751 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:49 am Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Gardener wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
Both series have their quirks; the XD is prone to a failure of the mirror damping system, resulting in sluggish and delayed shutter release; the entire X-700/-500/-300 series can have problems with their capacitors. |
The positive here is that the piston on XD is ridiculously easy to access - resealing and reskinning will take more time.
Re: capacitors - I'm not sure I am buying that. All references lead to one successful repair. Personally, I've only been able revive a Minolta by replacing a capacitor once, and there it was obvious once I removed the bottom cover that the electrolytic cap has popped. OTOH, X-700 service manual provides multiple reasons for the malfunction ascribed to the capacitor failure. |
I have never experienced the failure described as "capacitor failure"; my knowledge about that comes from the (German) Minolta Forum, no "so-fo.de". A good starting point for reading is e. g. this thread:
http://www.so-fo.de/t22693f202-Welcher-Elko-ist-der-quot-obere-quot-bei-defekter-X.html
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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Spokklocka
Joined: 14 Jan 2015 Posts: 50
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2019 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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Spokklocka wrote:
I've some experience with the OM2, Nikon F, XD 7 and Canon 7. Sturdiness inside and out -- Canon 7, winnns (the selenium cell meter will fail, other than that..I don't know). Feel of shutter - XD7 , wiinnsss. The others aren't bad and feel good in the hand too but the shutters are more "kerploink". |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3751 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2019 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
In addition to the already mentioned Nikon F and FM series, the Nikon FE and especially the FE-2 (1/4000s, 1/250s flash sync, TTL flash metering, titanium shutter) might be valuable alternatives.
The FE-2 has everything one needs - plus it feels much more sturdy than an Canon A-1 or a Minolta X-700:
* small yet robust metal body
* titanium shutter (B, 4s, ... 1/4000s)
* 1/250s flash sync
* mechanical B and 1/250s (works without batteries)
* integral light metering (no spot or multiple metering)
* manual metering and A mode
* nice needle metering system (override with +/- 2 EV steps)
* aperture visible in the viewfinder
* huge viewfinder (0.86x; 43% larger area than the 0.72x viewfinder of today's Nikon D5)
* MD-12 Motor drive (3 fps)
* stop-down lever
* little shutter/mirror vibration
It doesn't have
* exchangeable viewfinders
* S- and P-mode
* 100% viewfinder (only 93% of the actual image recorded on film is seen in the viewfinder)
* Spot metering
* fast motor drive (5 fps)
Nikon FE with MD-12 Motor Drive and Ai Nikkor 2.8/24mm (left), and Nikon FE-2 with the Ai Nikkor 2.8/28mm (right) _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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paulhofseth
Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 561 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
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Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:34 am Post subject: robustness |
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paulhofseth wrote:
This discussion calls for clarification of what a robust slr is. Is it a classical analog mirrorslap device ,or as I initially assumed, any analog body, such as the Nikonos which is designed for inhospitable surroundings (provided the seals are maintained). If the former, maybe a criterion of robustness should be normal, if strenuous use, + no age dependent faults like disintegrating light seals or failing -irreplaceable- integrated circuits.
Two possibly relevant observations: in my experience an Olympus 1 on the same equally moisture ridden fieldwork as a Leica M3 did not survive at all, could not be repaired ,the ocular and the meter electrics of the Oly had failed. After its demise, the M3 was on the contrary declared entirely fit by the local Leitz service.
I have good experiences with the Alpa, which is listed above. The meter is bridge-coupled and can take any reasonable voltage while the battery weakens, and age does not seem to destroy the innards. Still moves like the "clockwork" it is.
p. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:44 pm Post subject: Re: robustness |
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cooltouch wrote:
paulhofseth wrote: |
This discussion calls for clarification of what a robust slr is. Is it a classical analog mirrorslap device ,or as I initially assumed, any analog body, such as the Nikonos which is designed for inhospitable surroundings (provided the seals are maintained). |
I don't see these distinctions you mention as being germane to the discussion. Neither the Nikonos nor the Leica M3 are SLRs. So no matter how robust they are, they shouldn't be included in the discussion. I agree that the Leica M-series rangefinders are exceptionally robust cameras, but unless the parameters of the discussion are changed to include rangefinders, they get left out because they lack mirrors. Simple as that, really. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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paulhofseth
Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Posts: 561 Location: Norway
Expire: 2018-06-28
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Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 7:13 am Post subject: agreement |
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paulhofseth wrote:
I agree on sticking to SLRs, much more to go wrong mechanically.
p. |
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HansMoleman
Joined: 12 Jul 2019 Posts: 145 Location: MD USA
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Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 12:58 am Post subject: |
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HansMoleman wrote:
The Nikon F5 has the reputation of extreme reliability. There are documented cases of bodies with a million shutter actuations. Mine gets treated better than many.
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5027 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 6:38 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Is F5 one of those Nikons that used cost nowdays more than ever new? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 7:24 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Is F5 one of those Nikons that used cost nowdays more than ever new? |
..and ugly too, all that size for a small 35mm neg _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Is F5 one of those Nikons that used cost nowdays more than ever new? |
No. When first introduced, the F5 sold for over $2,000 -- street price. These days you can find clean F5s on eBay for substantially less than $300. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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HansMoleman
Joined: 12 Jul 2019 Posts: 145 Location: MD USA
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Posted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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HansMoleman wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
kansalliskala wrote: |
Is F5 one of those Nikons that used cost nowdays more than ever new? |
..and ugly too, all that size for a small 35mm neg |
Duly noted. |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 10:15 am Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
I've just seen a F5 with Nikkor AF zoom 42-86mm for 150 € on french site.
I didn't have the time to make an offer as it was already sold.
I saw 3 or 4 selling for 230-250€ naked. _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5027 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Olivier wrote: |
I've just seen a F5 with Nikkor AF zoom 42-86mm |
that's an unholy combo _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 2:29 pm Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
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peterqd wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
I really want a camera that I can toss to a car seat and not worry if it bounces on the floor. |
I don't think there are any SLRs that can be expected to survive rough treatment like that, they're really quite delicate mechanisms. If they do it's against the odds.
Modern plastic cameras crack and shatter too easily. Older metal cameras can take knocks and dents to an extent, some better than others, but all SLRs have a heavy prism which, due to its mass, is too easily dislodged by heavy handling, even if the camera is inside a protective case. The prisms normally sit on a foam bed (often disintegrated now) and are held in place by small fine springs. If the prism is dislodged the viewfinder is useless. Also, mirrors, shutter mechanisms and lenses on SLRs are easily affected by knocks, or by heat on a sunny window shelf.
I think I'd go for a fixed lens rangefinder with a leaf shutter, for instance the Konica Auto S2. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5027 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:01 am Post subject: Re: What is a really robust film SLR or Rangefinder? |
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kansalliskala wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
I think I'd go for a fixed lens rangefinder with a leaf shutter, for instance the Konica Auto S2. |
I do have a Konica C35EF3 for that purpose.
It works like a train's toilet.
(this used to be true when they were just holes in the floor ) _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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