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What's the latest lens you added to your collection?
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
Nikkor S 2.8/35mm - looking rather nicely, but (at first) with aperture stuck wide open and focus completely blocked. Plus some rust dust on the inner lens surfaces. Well, those early 2.8/35 Nikkors are rather scarce here, the price was right (CHF 15.-- including a Pentax-M 2.8/28mm and a Tokina RMC 3.5-4.3/35-105mm), and both the aperture as well as the focusing are working now, after some fiddling ... I'll nevertheless have to clean / relube the entire Nikkor 2.8/35mm, but it will look quite nice soon!

S


I had one with a severely dented filter ring. It seemed to be optically o.k. for close focus work, but really sort of poor for landscape/scenic work. I'm fairly certain that the optical path was knocked askew on that lens e:g "decentered". I replaced it with a great condition "O" 35mm f2 (which is a totally different lens) and haven't looked back...

-D.S.


PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2023 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The Nikkor-S Auto 2.8/35mm I got yesterday has been partially restored:



The lens had been looking rather ugly, with corroded & stuck aperture blades:



Since I was missing the necessary special screwdrivers to open the lens barrel I just cleaned the aperture mechanism superficially. For time being the result is acceptable, and the aperture moves again (though not as freely as intended):



Both lens surfaces facing the aperture mechanism were completely "blinded" with rust and dust. Nevertheless cleaning them was no problem.




However I wasn't able to open the front optical block, and one lens surface inside it still has some minor fogging. While I have the necessary rubber tools to remove the front rings (nameplates) of lenses, I never (!) managed to remove any of those rings. Obviously the Chinese rubber tools I bought are just crap; they lack the necessary grip, and their surface feels pretty slippery ... Sad

Anyway, the lens will need a proper servicing as soon as I got the necessary screwdrivers, but for time being it works already much much better than when I got it Wink

S


PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2024 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however Wink
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.

S


PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2024 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however Wink
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.

S


I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
stevemark wrote:
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however Wink
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.

S


I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look


All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.

S


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
kiddo wrote:
stevemark wrote:
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however Wink
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.

S


I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look


All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.

S


The rear element is quite narrow due to the leaf shutter opening not being much bigger. I assume it is because of the modest dimensions of the DKL mount, the restrictive opening, and the amount of movement needed to focus closer for a long focal length lens, too much movement may interfere with the light path to the film/sensor. Having said that, other comparable leaf shutter systems do focus closer, the Kowa 135/4 goes to 1.7m, the Agfaflex 135/4 goes to 2.5m and the Pentina Domigor to 2.7m. Perhaps their dimensions are less restrictive.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The gems in the DKL system are all 100mm or less, and some of those lenses are very good indeed.

The 135s are all pretty ho-hum, regardless of the manufacturer. The Dynarex is the best of the bunch but doesn't do anything a million other 135s do, and the handling on all of them is pretty poor. The handfuls of 200s and up in the mount are uniformly bad.

Alun Thomas wrote:
stevemark wrote:
kiddo wrote:
stevemark wrote:
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however Wink
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.

S


I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look


All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.

S


The rear element is quite narrow due to the leaf shutter opening not being much bigger. I assume it is because of the modest dimensions of the DKL mount, the restrictive opening, and the amount of movement needed to focus closer for a long focal length lens, too much movement may interfere with the light path to the film/sensor. Having said that, other comparable leaf shutter systems do focus closer, the Kowa 135/4 goes to 1.7m, the Agfaflex 135/4 goes to 2.5m and the Pentina Domigor to 2.7m. Perhaps their dimensions are less restrictive.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
The Nikkor-S Auto 2.8/35mm I got yesterday has been partially restored:


The lens had been looking rather ugly, with corroded & stuck aperture blades:


Since I was missing the necessary special screwdrivers to open the lens barrel I just cleaned the aperture mechanism superficially. For time being the result is acceptable, and the aperture moves again (though not as freely as intended):


Both lens surfaces facing the aperture mechanism were completely "blinded" with rust and dust. Nevertheless cleaning them was no problem.


However I wasn't able to open the front optical block, and one lens surface inside it still has some minor fogging. While I have the necessary rubber tools to remove the front rings (nameplates) of lenses, I never (!) managed to remove any of those rings. Obviously the Chinese rubber tools I bought are just crap; they lack the necessary grip, and their surface feels pretty slippery ... Sad

Anyway, the lens will need a proper servicing as soon as I got the necessary screwdrivers, but for time being it works already much much better than when I got it Wink

S


I'm pretty sure Richard H. covers this lens in one of his tear down videos.
It looks like alkali corrosion from what I can see here with the bright orange oxidization- probably had a freshwater dunk at some time in it's life ala Jackie Onassis and her loaner "F" Confused

Surprising you were able to get as far into it as you did. Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. On some nikkor lenses, the name rings got the same epoxy on the threads treatment as well.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
A shiny Canon Serenar 1,8/50 from 1952


PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!

Doc Sharptail wrote:

Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them.

That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.


Doc Sharptail wrote:
On some nikkor lenses, the name rings got the same epoxy on the threads treatment as well.

-D.S.

That was (is) the other problem.

S


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!

Doc Sharptail wrote:

Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them.

That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.

S


another method is to use heat to them


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kansalliskala wrote:
stevemark wrote:
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!

Doc Sharptail wrote:

Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them.

That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.

S


another method is to use heat to them


I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that)


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
kansalliskala wrote:
stevemark wrote:
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!

Doc Sharptail wrote:

Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them.

That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.

S


another method is to use heat to them


I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that)


I've had about 90% success rate with a small soldering iron. It takes a lot of time and patience with this method. Whether I'm using heat or acetone based solvent, it seems to help a lot to run the screw in a bit first. Some bayonet screws take a lot of backing in and out before I can get a couple of good fully rotational turns.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've tried soldering tool 30w with no succes, it seems it is not capable of transmission enough heat to the screw


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
I've tried soldering tool 30w with no succes, it seems it is not capable of transmission enough heat to the screw


It takes quite some time to heat them- they are quite long for a machine screw. Some of the worst bonded screws took over 7-8 minutes of heating time for me and my 35 W tool.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Meyer Görlitz Telemegor 4.5/300mm (not sure yet about the mount) for CHF 20.--. Not arrived yet, though.

S


PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've been interested in a Trioplan for a long time, but the prices are crazy, so I bought the TT Artisan 100 / 2.8 'bubble monster' instead. It was cheaper than any half decent Trioplan I'd seen and supposedly it's a copy - so I paid my money and bought it direct from TT Artisan. It's also the first brand new lens I've bought , other than kit lenses with cameras, in over 15 years.

It's a very nice lens, nice quality and performance that so far I like very much. But it has a major issue...the lens is upside down. It's ok on a Sony adapter that is radially adjustable, but it's rubbish on any M42 camera. I've had a long 'discussion' with TT Artisan about this, and to be fair they have resolved the issue, and I've got the lens.





PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
On the Nikkors with flat heads, it's REALLY important to have a screwdriver that is very sharp and fits the slots very precisely, since Nikon used rather soft metal in them, and it's really easy to bugger the slots if the driver dowsn't fit right. I actually have a dedicated screwdriver that I shaped with a whetstone to exaactly fit the Nikkor slots, and it works wonders and can even usually take out the threadlocked screws without additional solvent. Also note that on some of the Nikkors with flatheads on tehbayonet, the most firmly attached of the screws doesn't anchor the bayonet to the body but is rather the attachment point for the aperture lever return spring and doesn't actually have to be removed. Usually there are 4 screws in a "peace sign" arrangement, with the 5th screw that doesn't fit the pattern at 90 degrees CW from the aperture lever being the spring anchor.

For the Yashicas, it's absolutely necessary to use the appropriate JIS screwdriver to remove the rear screws. Typically, I apply acetone with an eyedropper on each screw head and let it soak for at least a minute before I attempt to remove the screws. Heat typically isn't necessary if you are patient with the solvent. The front rings on the DS and later Yashicas don't use the loctite-style threadlock as used on the rear screws, but rather a viscous red goo that is not fully solid, which is also used to attach the front barrel. Heating the whole lens cell in an electric oven set to its lowest temperature for about 15 minutes often helps soften it if you can't remove the retaining ring. Put the lens in while the oven is cold positioned away form any heating elements, and let it heat with the oven so as not to shock the glass.

Doc Sharptail wrote:
kiddo wrote:
kansalliskala wrote:
stevemark wrote:
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!

Doc Sharptail wrote:

Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them.

That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.

S


another method is to use heat to them


I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that)


I've had about 90% success rate with a small soldering iron. It takes a lot of time and patience with this method. Whether I'm using heat or acetone based solvent, it seems to help a lot to run the screw in a bit first. Some bayonet screws take a lot of backing in and out before I can get a couple of good fully rotational turns.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
On the Nikkors with flat heads, it's REALLY important to have a screwdriver that is very sharp and fits the slots very precisely, since Nikon used rather soft metal in them, and it's really easy to bugger the slots if the driver dowsn't fit right. I actually have a dedicated screwdriver that I shaped with a whetstone to exaactly fit the Nikkor slots, and it works wonders and can even usually take out the threadlocked screws without additional solvent. Also note that on some of the Nikkors with flatheads on tehbayonet, the most firmly attached of the screws doesn't anchor the bayonet to the body but is rather the attachment point for the aperture lever return spring and doesn't actually have to be removed. Usually there are 4 screws in a "peace sign" arrangement, with the 5th screw that doesn't fit the pattern at 90 degrees CW from the aperture lever being the spring anchor.


That particular aperture anchoring system does not occur on all nikkor lenses. On some earlier and later lenses, the spring tensioner actually anchors to the aperture ring it's self with a screw through the ring to hold it in place.

The advice above on properly fitted screw drivers cannot be emphasized enough here. The straight slot screws on some camera and lenses are quite easily damaged by improper fitting screw driver blades.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I managed to find a Nikkor 35mm f1.4 from a seller in Haifa. It´s cosmetic condition is a wee bit questionable, but the price was attractive probably due to that issue and the glass looks actually fine. Only problem so far is that it seems to have been shipped to the other place starting with Austr and I wonder if it will ever arrive here after that little detour to Down Under.





PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Good luck with getting it.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote:
I managed to find a Nikkor 35mm f1.4 from a seller in Haifa. It´s cosmetic condition is a wee bit questionable, but the price was attractive probably due to that issue and the glass looks actually fine. Only problem so far is that it seems to have been shipped to the other place starting with Austr and I wonder if it will ever arrive here after that little detour to Down Under.


That's why I only buy locally. In case the seller ships to that other land starting with "Sw..." I still can hold him/her accountable by visiting him personally ... Wink

S


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I bought this one thinking it would be the 90mm (not good info offered) ,so I have to manage what to do with a 40mm macro


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
I bought this one thinking it would be the 90mm (not good info offered) ,so I have to manage what to do with a 40mm macro

The 40mm looks nice too. Wink


PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Have a SMC Pentax (K) 100/4 macro coming my way.
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