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peterqd
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
It is our eyes and brain that makes the impression of 3D, based on the perspective (i.e. the reduction in size of the background). If the background is so blurred it becomes indistinct, then the impression of 3D is lost.
I think the most important aspect, more than the depth of field, is the ratio of the distances from camera to subject and subject to background. The focal length has to be factored in as well.
Minolta Tele-Rokkor MC 3.5/135
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20118/27_003s9_1.jpg) _________________ Peter - Moderator
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rwg
Joined: 13 Aug 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Holland
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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rwg wrote:
while lens formula probably a big factor in this. it determines how micro-contrast sharpness bokeh ect. ect. is handled.
It cant be just lens formula or els we would have had an answer to the OP question already. because in that case certain formulas would always generate 3d/pop pictures. And it would be easy to point out the different lenses. _________________ Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0, Fujinon EBC 50mm F1.4, S-M-C Takumar 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Takumar 150mm F4.0, MC Pentacon Auto 29mm F2.8, MC pentacon electric 135mm F2.8 |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/50 _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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pst
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 25 Aug 2010 Posts: 108 Location: Austria
Expire: 2013-08-17
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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pst wrote:
ChromaticAberration wrote: |
On the other hand, if it's not something you can write into a couple of instructions than it is a bit of a stretch even to consider it a technique because so far I get the idea it is almost a lens-formula-specific effect. |
I would say it's both. I think it's really only possible with a limited number of lenses but I do think there's a recipy for the artistic part:
I only came up with this recipy recently, and with my limited experience it seems a little early to share, but it works well for me...
.The subject in the foreground needs to be decently sharp (no glow, etc).
.The trasition zone needs elements blending the subject with background.
.The background needs to be only slighty blurred. (This is the hardest part, which is most up to the photographer)..
.The light is not so important (but diffuse light works better, IMHO)
.The effect only really shows with less-than perfect bokeh (not "cream"). I find totally smooth bokeh does not work as good as "character" bokeh. But this is totally lens dependent. I realized my CZJ 180/2.8 produces visible outlining on OOF highlight, but renders with more depth than smoother Orestor 135.
Two examples with CZJ 180/2.8:
To finally make things complicated: Another experience that I made (but is totally unresearched) is that slight motion blur (to long exposure, eg. 1/40sec on 85mm lens) can make some very good 3D feeling, even with lenses not otherwise suitable for this. But I'll have to investigate this better.. _________________ Regards, Patrick. |
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peterqd
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Centaur wrote: |
But I'll have to investigate this better.. |
That's the best advice I think. Don't rush into buying a lens just for 3D pictures until you understand the principles. Keep experimenting until you know how to create good 3D pictures, what are the best focal lengths, distances, aperture settings, light direction, etc etc. Only when you understand it can you decide what lens is best, and I'm betting we could all produce pretty good 3D pictures with some of the lenses we already have. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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uhoh7
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 2:20 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
nikkor 55/2.8
you don't have to try hard with that one
impressive since there is so little contrast--- pen 42/1.2 @ f/8 +
1956 canon LTM 85/1.5
one last:
leica 50/2 M v4
when shaded subjects pop.....
the newer CV RF lenses really pop---the 50/1.1 is a real 3D machine stopped down some. _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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timo832000
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Jun 2008 Posts: 544 Location: Germany / Cologne
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Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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timo832000 wrote:
Here is my thought:
Leitz Summicron-R 2/50 wide open. Shot was captured with K10D stitched from 2 images.
Timo _________________ I love Leica ! But I need Pentax ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
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ChromaticAberration
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 819 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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ChromaticAberration wrote:
Omar wrote: |
How about this for 3d?
Distagon 35 1.4 Wide open. This is not only separation of the main subject...I can feel the space between everything in this picture.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20118/1916__MG_7767_1.jpg) |
Now that is what I call 3D! Damn! Very, very nice. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm Æ’/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm Æ’/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm Æ’/1.4
_________________
Marketplace feedback
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a pнoтograpн ιѕ neιтнer тaĸen or ѕeιzed вy ғorce. ιт oғғerѕ ιтѕelғ υp. ιт ιѕ тнe pнoтo тнaт тaĸeѕ yoυ. one мυѕт noт тaĸe pнoтoѕ.†– нenrι carтιer-вreѕѕon |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:00 am Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
3D? _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:19 am Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Plasticity is the ability of a lens to convey the images exposed on the film the precise sense of photographed volume (a ball looks like a sphere or a circle?).
Difficult to explain in words (but only a few minutes and two lenses, one plastic and the other not-plastic, to make it clear to anyone what I'm talking about)
So plasticity is an objective parameter ... impossible to measure.
i think you mean plasticity not 3d _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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Frogfish
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 06 Apr 2010 Posts: 57 Location: Shanghai
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Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Frogfish wrote:
Great thread and some wonderful shots !
One of my first shots with my new C.Zeiss 85/1.4. Sat at a cafe waiting for a client. Shot at f2.8.
![](http://frogfish.smugmug.com/Shanghai-China/Street/i-m2MRL5X/0/XL/Street-Shanghai-Anting-Rd-XL.jpg) _________________ http://frogfish.smugmug.com/
Nikon D800E, D600, Zeiss Distagon 21/2.8, Zeiss Distagon 35/2, Nikon 300/2.8 VRII, Sigma 500/4.5 (for sale), Sigma 120-300/2.8, Nikon 85/1.8G, Sigma 50/1.4, Nikon TC20EIII, Nikon TC14EII, Sigma DG x2.0 |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Orestor 2.8/100
the bokeh!!!!
O.O _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses....
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nixland
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:40 pm Post subject: Re: pentacon 29mm test |
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nixland wrote:
rwg wrote: |
...
second pic at f4.0
....
i dont know what you guys see but to me it seems f4 pops the most
even the slight difference in DoF affects the pop effect a lot in my opinion.
and it might have something to do with the sharpness too.
[/img] |
Yes, for my eyes, the f/4 shot looks more popped-out than at wide-open. I think the blur quality of out of focus area can make a different. Maybe a more natural blur level that mimic our sight could add a more pop-out look (the blur not to creamy or too soft). Maybe. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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muddus
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 233 Location: Suomi
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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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muddus wrote:
OM 28/2 A nice landscape lens.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20118/4307__MG_4925_copy_1.jpg) _________________ Anselm Adams: “A great photograph is one that fully expresses what one feels, in the deepest sense, about what is being photographed.”
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
~ Leonardo DaVinci
http://www.raksi.net/gallery/index.html
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/66108635%40N05/popular-interesting/ |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Orestor 2.8/100 _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses....
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Dco
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 19 Location: Vigo, Spain
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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Dco wrote:
Very interesting topic!
Well, it isn't a MF lens, but i really love the 3D rendering of my Pentax 31mm Limited. The best lens I've ever used:
Closer:
Even closer:
Samyang 85mm f1.4 is very good for subject isolaction, but not so good for 3d, because of the longer focal length and the telephoto compression -I think- compared with the 31mm, but a I can get what I consider a "3d effect" image from time to time, especially with far subjects:
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20118/1807_IMGP6522_1.jpg) _________________ Pentax K100d super, *IstD, K5
SMC-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 24mm f2.8, Kiron 24mm f2, Samyang 85mm f1.4 Aspherical IF, Sigma 500mm f7.2
Some "evil" AF lenses |
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WallyJr74
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 12 Mar 2009 Posts: 146 Location: Canada
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Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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WallyJr74 wrote:
Awesome!
Omar wrote: |
How about this for 3d?
Distagon 35 1.4 Wide open. This is not only separation of the main subject...I can feel the space between everything in this picture.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20118/1916__MG_7767_1.jpg) |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Planar 1.4/50 _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses....
Last edited by metallaro1980 on Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:06 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ManualFocus-G
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
metallaro1980, you need to tell us what lenses you are using ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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AhamB
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:44 am Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
Last picture in this post is a great example of the 3D that the Contax 35/1.4 can produce: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/839374/60#9903386 |
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sinner79
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 02 May 2011 Posts: 157
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:59 am Post subject: |
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sinner79 wrote:
Hi, do you think Planar 50mm 1.7 T*, has a good 3d effect? Any example of this lens? Better Distagon 35mm T*? Thanks. _________________ Manual Lenses
Vivitar 28mm f2 MC - Pentacon 29mm MC f2.8 - Mir24m 35mm MC f2 - Carl Zeiss Distagon 35mm f2.8 - Car Zeiss 50mm f1.7 MM T* - Rollei Planar 50mm f1.8 HFT - Jupiter 9 85mm f2 - Carl Zeiss Tele Tessar 135mm f4 - Meyer-Optik Orestor 135mm f2.8 - Tair 11A 135mm f2.8 Meyer - Optik Orestor 200 mm f4
My Flickr album: http://www.flickr.com/photos/danielepelacani/
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FlyPenFly
Joined: 09 Jun 2011 Posts: 14
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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FlyPenFly wrote:
Zeiss ZA 85mm F1.4?
_DSC2096.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
_DSC1593.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
_DSC2608.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
_DSC2489.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
_DSC2069.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
Zeiss 21mm F2.8 ZF.2 on A850
untitled-38.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr
untitled-28.jpg by jaetography, on Flickr |
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Pancolart
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3701 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:40 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Despite strong purple (green) fringing it works great. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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AhamB
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:55 am Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
sinner79 wrote: |
Hi, do you think Planar 50mm 1.7 T*, has a good 3d effect? Any example of this lens? Better Distagon 35mm T*? Thanks. |
Many people say the 50/1.7 does have good 3D capabilities. The 35/1.4 is even better at it. Don't know about the 35/2.8.
@Jae: The shots with the 21 have implied perspective, but the 3D impression is a lot less because the HDR treatment has destroyed the midtone contrast. At least, the walls look very flat and blurred because of it. |
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Mos6502
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 960 Location: Austin
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Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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Mos6502 wrote:
The Meritar gives good 3D effect.
Getting the "3D" look has more to do with the composition than the lens. If you go around shooting fast lenses at their largest apertures, you end up frequently with a lot of images that look like objects were pasted into a blurred background.
Kind of like in this photo (just for example, if I may):
If you compose for a more gradual focus fall off, I think the effect is better.
I would say this image provides more of a 3D effect:
You can see the fence come into focus, then go out again. It's when things travel through the depth of field that the effect is most striking. The blur indicates distance better here.
Although I feel like the effect works best actually if you avoid using really wide apertures. For a 50mm lens, probably between f2.8 and f5.6 depending on the point of focus (if the point of focus is farther away a larger aperture may work better though). If you shoot wide open at close distances you start getting that "pasted on" look again. |
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