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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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 Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| Orio wrote: |
Nixland, stopping down does not help much when you have a frontal subject of small size with a distant frontal background, all in flat lightning. It is unavoidable to obtain flat photos in such conditions.
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OK, I see.
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Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
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Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
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sir_c
Joined: 07 Dec 2008
Posts: 67
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:08 am Post subject: |
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sir_c wrote:
There is more than one way to skin a cat in obtaining 3D pop, that is for sure. I must say that certain lenses do give more reward when you nail all conditions: good subject-background distance, appropriate aperture and working distance and good light (duh).
Wide open aperture is not a necessity, below are three different ways of obtaining the pop:
Leica Summicron-R 50/1.4 @ f/5.6 at close range (3m), ray of sunlight struck the model, Leica glass did the rest 
Contax Planar 50/1.7 @ f/5.6 at close range using the camera pop-up flash as fill-in flash.
Leica Summicron-R 50/2 @ f/8 using the effect of motion blur really lets the subject stand out.
I am sure there are numerous alternatives to these scenarios, even though it looks like German glass does help in most cases
The Takumar 50/1.4 and Helios 58/2 are two good examples of non-German glass that gave me good results as well, like other posters already mentioned.
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Asahi Pentax (P/K): - SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/2, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm f/2.5
Carl Zeiss (C/Y): - Planar 50mm f/1.7, Planar 50mm f/1.4, Sonnar 135mm f/2.8, Planar 85mm f/1.4
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Mamiya/Sekor: - Auto 50mm f/2, SX 55mm f/1.8, Macro Sekor 60mm f/2.8, SX 135mm f/2.8
Pentacon: - Auto 29mm f/2.8, Auto MC 50mm f/1.8, Auto 135mm f/2.8
Misc: - Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor 200mm f/4, Petri Auto CC 55mm f/1.8, Soligor Tele Auto 300mm f/5.5
Russian: - Helios 44M-6 58mm f/2, Jupiter-9 85mm f/2, Tair 11A 135mm f/2.8
Tokina: - (P/K) RMC EMZ 70-210mm f/4.5
Yashica: - Auto 50mm f/2 (preset), DX 50mm f/1.7
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 11:13 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| sir_c wrote: |
Wide open aperture is not a necessity, below are three different ways of obtaining the pop:
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Agree with that. Some f/2.8 shots of my f/1.4 lens looks more pop-out than at wide open. It all depends on the condition.
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Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 29545
Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Here's a photo that I took yesterday with Leica M9 camera and Zeiss Biogon 2/35 lens:
It was taken at f/8 (!) and shows I think that 3D the way I mean it can obtained also with apertures like f/8 or f/11, if the most foreground object is very close.
Like already said, it's a matter of composition, lighting, lens, and correct aperture for the situation.
If I took this photo at wide open, the result would have been not just totally different, but also totally not 3D.
What surprised me is that I didn't think that the Biogon 2/35 could render such remarkable 3D, as it is one of the most corrected lenses that I know.
But the great microcontrast and the great quality of bokeh, coupled with the narrow aperture, the very foreshortened perspective,
and the modeling sunlight, create just the right mix for the ass of the horse to look as round as a snooker ball 
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Good work Orio, you've got some nice kit there
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008
Posts: 733
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
To be honest, I'm not really seeing much 3D here, Orio. Maybe the problem is that you have seen a much bigger version on your own screen, and the 3D effect always works much better on larger display sizes. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 9096
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
To me, a 3D effect must cause the subject to stand out from the rest of the image, not just the background. To do this effectively, both the background and the foreground must be out of focus. This is pretty easy to do with macro shots or when using long telephotos. When using shorter focal lengths, it can become more of a challenge, but it is certainly not impossible.
I dug through an assortment of my old slide scans, and I've come up with this one as an example to what I mean.
Canon F-1, probably 300mm f/4, taken in 1987
Probably not the most effective example, but it gets my point across, at least.
On the other hand, if I were wearing a set of 3D glasses and Orio's horse swished its tail, I'd move my head to get out of the way 
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Last edited by cooltouch on Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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izvar
Joined: 17 Feb 2011
Posts: 252
Location: Moldova
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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izvar wrote:
I see, i see Probably cause of good composition, a deep shadow on the foreground and a tile distortion on the street
It's very difficult to achieve 3D effect w/o tricks like emphasizing DOF, motion blur etc.
But you did it, Orio!
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Orio's example works for me as the horse's ass is positively poking it's way out of the screen, yet subjects in front also seem in focus, just further away.
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
I've found the 3-d thing such that if you're not sure, it probably isn't. With my eyes, I think Omar's Distagon shots have a 3-d appearance, and while some others are close or somewhat 3-d-ish, most are just good examples of subject separation from the background. I can't say that I've had one that screams 3-d, but maybe some close ones that are a little more than just subject separation...
Komura 135mm
Vivitar 135mm Series 1
Tair-11 133mm
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krankykraut
Joined: 28 Oct 2009
Posts: 25
Location: USA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:58 am Post subject: |
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krankykraut wrote:
Summicron-R 50mm, version 2.
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muddus
Joined: 27 May 2011
Posts: 233
Location: Suomi
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| Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:43 am Post subject: |
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muddus wrote:
Kerimäki. The biggest wooden church in the world : OM 24/2,8 F4 Eos 5D
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008
Posts: 733
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
| Orio's example works for me as the horse's ass is positively poking it's way out of the screen |
I think that is just because of the directional light (shadow on the side and next to the tail). If you'd use some fill light the effect would be mostly gone, I think. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 3705
Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Jupiter-6-2 wide open in bright noon sun.
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Woah that 6-2 has buckets of 3D!
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huhging
Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 248
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:57 am Post subject: |
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huhging wrote:
I'd definitely recommend following lenses if one is looking for 3D look.
C/Y 35/1.4
C/Y 35-70/3.4
C/Y 100/2.0
Leica R Apo 180/2.8
And ......Any Contax N lenses with Contax N Digital camera.
The CCD sensor of the Contax N Digital camera really makes a huge difference.....
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muddus
Joined: 27 May 2011
Posts: 233
Location: Suomi
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| Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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muddus wrote:
Foggy and overcast days provide time for a good 3-D shades Rollei 21 / 4 5DC
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huhging
Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 248
Location: New York
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| Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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huhging wrote:
Snap shot from today ...
C/Y 100/2.0
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Voigtlander 35/1.2 II
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agent_cooper
Joined: 06 Oct 2010
Posts: 139
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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agent_cooper wrote:
| Spotmatic wrote: |
| I would like to suggest to become a better photographer first, and learn how a 3D-like picture can be done with what you already have. Just take the time to learn your lenses. |
agree to you 99-100%
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CCCP: Helios 44-4, Helios 40-2.
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muddus
Joined: 27 May 2011
Posts: 233
Location: Suomi
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| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:27 am Post subject: |
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muddus wrote:
It is just bullshit, that someone has a better lens color to the 3D world than anyone else. When the light and the time is right for any lens is good. This Canon 70-200L / 4 lens described.
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Anselm Adams: “A great photograph is one that fully expresses what one feels, in the deepest sense, about what is being photographed.”
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
~ Leonardo DaVinci
http://www.raksi.net/gallery/index.html
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/66108635%40N05/popular-interesting/ |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Sorry, I don't agree. I love having a 3D effect in my images and my Contax lenses seem do it all the time, whilst I really struggle with other lenses, to the point where I don't use them anymore.
In my opinion, the Canon picture doesn't look like it has 3D to me. I had a 70-300/4-5.6 IS and that made horrible flat images every time.
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
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Last edited by ManualFocus-G on Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:52 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 10472
Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
| In my opinion, the Canon picture doesn't look like it has 3D to me |
+1 difficult to imagine a image more flat than this Canon one 
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ramiller500
Joined: 20 Nov 2007
Posts: 124
Location: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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ramiller500 wrote:
I've seen this effect with various Canon FD and FL series lenses.
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| ramiller500 wrote: |
| I've seen this effect with various Canon FD and FL series lenses. |
erm what "effect" do you speak of 
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killwilly
Joined: 16 May 2011
Posts: 111
Location: United Kingdom
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| Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:49 am Post subject: |
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killwilly wrote:
| muddus wrote: |
It is just bullshit, that someone has a better lens color to the 3D world than anyone else. When the light and the time is right for any lens is good. This Canon 70-200L / 4 lens described.
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This photograph has in a way answered my question in the link below. By comparison it is no where near as sharp as a lot of photographs in this thread.
http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-l-lenses-compared-with-older-mf-lenses-t41651.html
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