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what arrest and fixer chemicals you suggest?
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:36 pm    Post subject: what arrest and fixer chemicals you suggest? Reply with quote
I have been adviced to use liquid ones as powder ones are tricky to prepare, although they last longer.

For arrest bath, they have suggested Ilford. Are there several Ilford ones or just one? do you have alternatives to recommend?

As for fixer bath, they said brand is not important, what do you recommend?


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
It depends on your washing regime really. Acid fixers work faster but require longer wash cycle. Alkalai fixer takes longer but is faster to wash. Also if you over-fix with acid fixer it will start to destroy your shadow detail. Personally I prefer to the Alkalai. You will need to source that locally as I don't think it will be allowed to go through international mail.

Stop bath is easy, a little acetic acid in a liter of water. Try about 15g of acid, added to 750ml water, then make up to 1 litre. Disgard after use.

Rember your alphabet. Always add acid to water, never water to acid. A comes before W. A to W.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
...I forgot to ask, is this for film or paper?


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks, that is for film, I need to learn to process before trying to print.
Any brand recommended for alkaline fixer, or they are all the same?


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I like the Barry Thornton formula. I buy it from a guy on ebay, I think he is called monophotographer or something like that. Do a search for Alkaline fixer, it shold bring it up.

I warn you though, it is sold as a pack of powder, but it very very easy to mix.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Found it:

Click here to see on Ebay

Don't think he will ship abroad though, probably restrictions on chemicals in the mail. When I get home, I will see what I can find for you.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you cannot find acetic acid for your stop bath, remember that white vinegar is also a form of acetic acid, albeit more diluted.

Don't forget to add a wetting agent (Ilford Ilfosol) in your last washing water. This will help to reduce drying marks.

And better leave your negatives in the bathroom while they are drying. The damp atmosphere reduces the amount of dust in the air.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thank you!


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
IS it possible to use these alkaline stop and fixer after develop in T-max developer?


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks!
I have found this seller for T-Max developer in Italy:

http://www.ilfotoamatore.it/Scheda_Avanzata.asp?ID=4364&art=KO051

on the notes it says "to be used only with the reels"
what does that mean Question Confused


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
There are two versions of T-Max developer. One is a one-shot version designed for small tanks like the one you will be using. The other is for high-volume replenishable systems, either machines or "dip and dunk" hand lines.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
GrahamNR17 wrote:
There are two versions of T-Max developer. One is a one-shot version designed for small tanks like the one you will be using. The other is for high-volume replenishable systems, either machines or "dip and dunk" hand lines.


hm... how can I tell one from the other?
Searching on Ebay does not return anything in the EU for me


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The One-shot version is called T-Max Developer, the one for replenishable systems is called T-Max RS Developer & Replenisher.

Here is some useful information for you Very Happy http://wwwuk.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/filmBWmain.jhtml?pq-path=13318/13629/14024


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Is this one good or wrong type for me?

http://www.dondeleo.com/prod-t-3301674705251-kodak_tmax_sviluppo_mnegativi_200ml_per_fare_1_lt.html


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
Is this one good or wrong type for me?

http://www.dondeleo.com/prod-t-3301674705251-kodak_tmax_sviluppo_mnegativi_200ml_per_fare_1_lt.html


That is the correct one Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
good Smile
going to buy a couple I guess Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
For Kodak materials it is worth noting the CAT number on each product. It will be the same for a given product anywhere in the world Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
okay !
What is best... to buy small bottles of 1 liter each, or one big bottle of 5 liters?


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Unless you are going to use lots of films in a short period of time, I'd buy smaller bottles. As you use some out of the bottle, there will be an air space which will accelerate the oxidation of the chemicals. With smaller bottles, you can squeeze it before you put the cap back on so there is less air inside Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
GrahamNR17 wrote:
Unless you are going to use lots of films in a short period of time, I'd buy smaller bottles. As you use some out of the bottle, there will be an air space which will accelerate the oxidation of the chemicals. With smaller bottles, you can squeeze it before you put the cap back on so there is less air inside Wink


Ah ok
would it make sense to move the liquid from the original bottle into an accordion bottle after the first use?

Another question about the final washing, is it better to do it with distilled water? The water here has a lot of calcar inside.

thanks!


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Accordion bottle are made from polythene or polyethylene and have a very very poor oxygen barrier properties. They will probably go off faster in those bottles.

Glass bottles have a perfect oxygen barrier. One idea is to decant into small glass bottles, and any air space replaced by an inert gas (available to some photo dealers online. I think it is called Protectan, or something like that.

Another good bottle is polyester Coke bottles. They are treated inside to give an exceptionally good gas barrier (hence the coke has lots of gas and bubbles when you open it). However, these are a very bad idea if you have kids at home. They will recognise the bottle as being a coke bottle and try to drink it Surprised


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:


Another question about the final washing, is it better to do it with distilled water? The water here has a lot of calcar inside.

thanks!

That would cost you a fortune, if you paid normal prices for it.
I've not found chalky water to be a problem, but if you find it is, in your area, you could do a final rinse in de-ionised water - which you can buy by the 25L drum from car battery places or chemical suppliers. It's reasonably cheap that way.
The cheapest way of all is to have a de-humidifier running (a small one) and empty it out every few days - cost per litre is peanuts. Before you know it, you've got litres and litres of distilled water.


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
GrahamNR17 wrote:
One idea is to decant into small glass bottles, and any air space replaced by an inert gas (available to some photo dealers online. I think it is called Protectan, or something like that.

Some people use a squirt of butane, from a blowlamp or Gaz light. All that matters is to displace the oxygen and the butane doesn't react with the developer. Of course, the habit of lighting up as soon as one steps out of the darkroom should be discouraged... Smile


PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:

Another question about the final washing, is it better to do it with distilled water? The water here has a lot of calcar inside.

thanks!

Oops, missed that bit Laughing

I wash in water filtered through one of those kitchen water jugs things. My final rinse with the Kodak Photoflow is with distilled water. You need to source it well though, some places charge a fortune for it Confused

Wash-wise, if I am using Alkaline fixer, I use a modified version of the 'Ilford wash method'. I have negs 30 years old washed that way with no ill-effects.
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