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Take care when cleaning lens from fungus
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Orio




Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 18155
Location: West Emilia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:42 am    Post subject: Take care when cleaning lens from fungus Reply with quote

I have learned from experience that mixing chemicals to clean from fungus can be a dangerous operation.
In particular, to mix bleaches and ammonia is very dangerous. I recommend not to do this, because it can cause death to you and the persons near you, and to use different chemicals, but if you really want to use that, do it at your own risk, and remember to take all the necessary precautions, like:

- do the cleaning in the open air

- in cool air temperature

- mix only the strictly needed amount to clean a lens and not more

- wear a humid cloth in front of your mouth, sealing eyeglasses, and thick glovers

- make sure that no children and no animals can have access to the place you are doing the cleaning operation.

Remember that mixing bleaches and ammonia produces a deadly gas, and that mixing large quantities can cause an explosion, especially when air temperature is high.
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hk300



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Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 987
Location: Hong Kong

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would the easier to get household mold cleaner also work?
It is Chloride based.
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dnas



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Joined: 14 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use distilled white vinegar. Not dangerous, works very nicely. Clean afterward with distilled water, and lens tissue.
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indianadinos



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Joined: 06 Jul 2008
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Location: Toulouse, France

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...

Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink Wink ) ...
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Attila



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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

indianadinos wrote:
I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...

Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink Wink ) ...


I think problem with "weak" material they are not kill fungus 100%.
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35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
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Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
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Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
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estudleon



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Joined: 15 May 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not white vinegar?

Does not good the job?
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CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9

Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.

RF
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Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar.
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Attila



Level 4

Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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Location: Budapest,Hungary

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

estudleon wrote:
Why not white vinegar?

Does not good the job?


Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive.
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Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinder
Konica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17

35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
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estudleon



Level 4

Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 2673
Location: Argentina

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
estudleon wrote:
Why not white vinegar?

Does not good the job?


Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive.


Wow !!

Thanks Attila for sharing your experience. Very usefull.

No, no vinegar. Thanks again.

Regards, Rino.
_________________
Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9

Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.

RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar.
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siriusdogstar



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Joined: 05 Mar 2009
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Location: 40 kilometers to town

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to say first dust spec is home to new fungus. After thorough cleaning only remedy is to prevent new growth with low-humidity storage.

Mold and fungus may be most abundant life form on Earth. Hope buddies never hear about these "murders" Smile
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Attila



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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

siriusdogstar wrote:
low-humidity storage.


Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.

One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100%
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Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinder
Konica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17

35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
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dnas



Level 1

Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 139
Location: Japan

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
estudleon wrote:
Why not white vinegar?

Does not good the job?


Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive.


Attila wrote:
siriusdogstar wrote:
low-humidity storage.


Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.

One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100%


So Attila, what you're saying is that whether you clean fungus with strong chemicals or white vinegar, if it is THEN stored in low humidity, they should work equaly well!!!! Razz Very Happy
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larsr



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Joined: 25 Jun 2009
Posts: 199
Location: Helsinki, Finland

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality?
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dnas



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Joined: 14 Nov 2008
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Location: Japan

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

larsr wrote:
Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality?


Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.

I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months.
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Attila



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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27461
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dnas wrote:
larsr wrote:
Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality?


Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.

I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months.


Good idea ! Thanks! Keep one in dark, keep one without caps and let we see.
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Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinder
Konica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17

35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
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dnas



Level 1

Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 139
Location: Japan

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or what I was thinking about, was getting a lens with reasonably uniform fungus, and clean one half of the lens element with vinegar and leave the other half with fungus!!! Take photos. Then leave it in the bathroom lens caps on.

Then do the same with another lens, same, but with lens caps off.

Repeat same for a dry, bright location!!!!

Leave for a few months.

This way we KNOW the lenses have fungus, but we can see if it returns to the vinegar cleaned surfaces or not. And also if the moisture and light make any difference.
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