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Orio

Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 18155 Location: West Emilia
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:42 am Post subject: Take care when cleaning lens from fungus |
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I have learned from experience that mixing chemicals to clean from fungus can be a dangerous operation.
In particular, to mix bleaches and ammonia is very dangerous. I recommend not to do this, because it can cause death to you and the persons near you, and to use different chemicals, but if you really want to use that, do it at your own risk, and remember to take all the necessary precautions, like:
- do the cleaning in the open air
- in cool air temperature
- mix only the strictly needed amount to clean a lens and not more
- wear a humid cloth in front of your mouth, sealing eyeglasses, and thick glovers
- make sure that no children and no animals can have access to the place you are doing the cleaning operation.
Remember that mixing bleaches and ammonia produces a deadly gas, and that mixing large quantities can cause an explosion, especially when air temperature is high. _________________ Lens sana in corpore sano
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My Photography Blog (in Italian and English)
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hk300

Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 987 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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would the easier to get household mold cleaner also work?
It is Chloride based. |
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dnas

Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 139 Location: Japan
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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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| I use distilled white vinegar. Not dangerous, works very nicely. Clean afterward with distilled water, and lens tissue. |
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indianadinos


Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 478 Location: Toulouse, France
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:10 am Post subject: |
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I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...
Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink ) ... _________________ Please visit my blog Shooting with a Pentax K10D
Takumar Lenses: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4
Pentax-K Lenses: M28/2.8, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss Lenses: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer Lenses: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil Lenses: Travenar 90/2.8, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian Lenses: MIR 37B, Jupiter 37A
P6 Lenses: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor Lenses: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Attila


Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 27461 Location: Budapest,Hungary
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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| indianadinos wrote: | I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...
Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink ) ... |
I think problem with "weak" material they are not kill fungus 100%. _________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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estudleon


Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 2673 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Attila


Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 27461 Location: Budapest,Hungary
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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| estudleon wrote: | Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. _________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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estudleon


Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 2673 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | estudleon wrote: | Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. |
Wow !!
Thanks Attila for sharing your experience. Very usefull.
No, no vinegar. Thanks again.
Regards, Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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siriusdogstar


Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 419 Location: 40 kilometers to town
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry to say first dust spec is home to new fungus. After thorough cleaning only remedy is to prevent new growth with low-humidity storage.
Mold and fungus may be most abundant life form on Earth. Hope buddies never hear about these "murders"  _________________ like attracts like! |
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Attila


Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 27461 Location: Budapest,Hungary
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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| siriusdogstar wrote: | | low-humidity storage. |
Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.
One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100% _________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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dnas

Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 139 Location: Japan
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:13 am Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | estudleon wrote: | Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. |
| Attila wrote: | | siriusdogstar wrote: | | low-humidity storage. |
Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.
One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100% |
So Attila, what you're saying is that whether you clean fungus with strong chemicals or white vinegar, if it is THEN stored in low humidity, they should work equaly well!!!!  |
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larsr


Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 199 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:58 am Post subject: |
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Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? _________________ Lars
My photos on Flickr
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D80
SLR: Nikkormat FT2, Voigtländer VSL1 TM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII
35mm: Voigtländer Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 50/2-HC, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Chinon 28/2.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Meyer Görlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer Görlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
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dnas

Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 139 Location: Japan
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:40 am Post subject: |
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| larsr wrote: | | Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? |
Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.
I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months. |
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Attila


Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 27461 Location: Budapest,Hungary
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| dnas wrote: | | larsr wrote: | | Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? |
Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.
I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months. |
Good idea ! Thanks! Keep one in dark, keep one without caps and let we see. _________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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dnas

Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 139 Location: Japan
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Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:50 am Post subject: |
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Or what I was thinking about, was getting a lens with reasonably uniform fungus, and clean one half of the lens element with vinegar and leave the other half with fungus!!! Take photos. Then leave it in the bathroom lens caps on.
Then do the same with another lens, same, but with lens caps off.
Repeat same for a dry, bright location!!!!
Leave for a few months.
This way we KNOW the lenses have fungus, but we can see if it returns to the vinegar cleaned surfaces or not. And also if the moisture and light make any difference. |
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