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WallyJr74
Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Posts: 146
Location: Canada
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 Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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WallyJr74 wrote:
I don't have the gut to do it. 
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Nikon D700 & some AF/MF lenses. |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6624
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:08 am Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Wow, shaving a 5D mkII? Fair play!
_________________
Graham - Moderator 
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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egidio
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 222
Location: slovenia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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egidio wrote:
is there any way of shaving 5d mirror without canceling warranty?
For instance is it possible to buy additional mirror and shave it, and than just switch mirrors, an If something goes wrong with the camera you switch back?
_________________
I use: Flektogon 2.8/20, Flektogon 2.8/35, planar 50mm/1.4, Takumar 1.4/50mm, Takumar 1.9/85, MIR 24H, Mir1v, Industar-50-2, Helios-44-2, Pentacon 2.8/135, cyclop 85 1.5 |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:27 am Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
I started the 5D shaving process on Saturday afternoon - all went really well and things were looking really good until the secondary mirror collapsed 
Followed all the guidelines and was working really carefully and slowly...
Camera still works - the half-photos are no fun though (the bottom part of every image is now black) 
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008
Posts: 4045
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Ouch Mal, that's not fun!
Things like this really make me want a FF camera from Pentax, because there will then be no mirror clearance problems anymore...
_________________
Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:25 am Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
| Spotmatic wrote: |
Ouch Mal, that's not fun!
Things like this really make me want a FF camera from Pentax, because there will then be no mirror clearance problems anymore... |
I hear you 
It's off to the repair-shop today and the guy has agreed to complete the mirror-shave when he's got the body apart which saves me the hassle. I've managed to get a 5D MkII loaner from the Canon distributor as I have some work-related shooting this week, so my panic is over 
Still confused as to how and why it happened though - if anything, I was over-careful when doing the job...
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 10471
Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:28 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
ouch! I hope your mirror will be reglued promptly to back the whole frame |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| egidio wrote: |
is there any way of shaving 5d mirror without canceling warranty?
For instance is it possible to buy additional mirror and shave it, and than just switch mirrors, an If something goes wrong with the camera you switch back? |
No, not possible,
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Hi Henry,
The hinges didn't break - the sub-mirror is still attached to the main mirror.
The problem is that the sub-mirror no longer rises when the main one does - which is a bit odd seeing as how the spring for the sub-mirror is still there and is functional - giving me the same problem as you've just described below. I like the idea of fixing it to the main mirror!
Of course, to add insult to injury, when I went to the camera repair shop at lunchtime, I realised that I forgot to put the camera in my backpack!!!
AAAAAHHHHHHHH - another day without the camera - okay, got the Mk II on loan from this evening, but it's not mine 
| hinnerker wrote: |
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| Mal1905 wrote: |
Hi Henry,
The hinges didn't break - the sub-mirror is still attached to the main mirror.
The problem is that the sub-mirror no longer rises when the main one does - which is a bit odd seeing as how the spring for the sub-mirror is still there and is functional - giving me the same problem as you've just described below. I like the idea of fixing it to the main mirror!
Of course, to add insult to injury, when I went to the camera repair shop at lunchtime, I realised that I forgot to put the camera in my backpack!!!
AAAAAHHHHHHHH - another day without the camera - okay, got the Mk II on loan from this evening, but it's not mine
| hinnerker wrote: |
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry |
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Hi Mal,
i know, the submirror of my cam was also still attached on their hinges on the main mirror. A little leading plastic which goes into the Body was broken.. thats what i did mean with hinges.. dont know the exact english expression for that little piece of plastik. Its located on right side of the mirror housing. Not the hinges of the submirrors itself.. the side guidance.. which brings up the submirror in relation to the main mirror movement.
There is a small nose in the right sidewall, which flips the submirror up.. this little plastic was broken..
To fix the submirror on the main mirror with tape, disables the complete autofocus-section so you can use the cam only in REAL - MF Mode with only the focus screen and without any confirmation..
Cheers
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de
Last edited by hinnerker on Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:29 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Thanks for clearing up my confusion Henry - I genuinely thought I was going mad!!! I looked into the mirror-box but nothing seemed to have broken or snapped, but what you say now makes total sense to me. I can picture the sidewall you mentioned, and from memory, can see how there had to have been something there to guide the sub-mirror as required.
 Now you've got me thinking about whether or not I'll get the repair done at all - I only ever use manual focus (even with my EF 24-70 L lens), and it's rarely on the camera these days (which is exactly why I sold off all my other EF glass...), so do I really need to drop €200.00 +/_ at this stage???
Again, my thanks for this invaluable tip
| hinnerker wrote: |
Hi Mal,
i know, the submirror was also still attached in their hinges on the main mirror. A little leading plastic which goes into the Body was broken.. thats what i did mean with hinges.. dont know the exact english expression for that little piece of plastik. Its located on right side of the mirror housing. Not the hinges of the submirrors itself.. the side guidance.. which brings up the submirror in relation to the main mirror movement.
There is a small nose in the right sidewall, which flips the submirror up.. this little plastic was broken..
To fix the submirror on the main mirror with tape, disables the complete autofocus-section so you can use the cam only in REAL - MF Mode with only the focus screnn an without confirmation..
Cheers |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
I did find an image of the problem some month ago..
there is a little fork on the right side as Rainer Höhnle told, a guy from another forum, who is specialist in repairing Canon cams.., the fork is the side guidance... but it could also be the axis of the guidance fork.
The same happens with some old 300D cams often.
To repair this, you have to open the whole body.. !!
Thats, why its so expensive to repair.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Thanks yet again Henry - I'm now much happier and may have even saved some money too - my wife may be getting a Christmas present after all
Will finish off the mirror-shave tonight and tape up the sub-mirror.
And, of course, will report back on any significant findings along the way!
| hinnerker wrote: |
| I did find an image of the problem some month ago.. |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 842
Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time.
_________________
Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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Carlsson
Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 793
Location: Portugal
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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Carlsson wrote:
Bruce, mini-dremel did work for me, I bought it for this purpose. Try different cutter stones and rpm, to avoid vibrations from the dremel.
Good luck!
_________________
Contax III, Zeiss Ikon ZM, Contax AX, EOS 5D, R-D1
https://mariaeero.com/contax/ |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008
Posts: 3614
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
| Mal1905 wrote: |
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
|
guys, you need only one thing -- nail-file  and do shaving as traverse grinding (?) ...
tf
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
| Mal1905 wrote: |
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
|
guys, you need only one thing -- nail-file and do shaving as traverse grinding (?) ...
tf |
Hi Trifox,
thats correct +1
After repairing the mirror box of my 5D, i ask the repair guy to give me the broken old mirror system in my hands for researching the way, which is best for mirror shaving.
I must say, the best way was to file down with.... a nail-file.. It make less trouble on the edges of the mirror. Only decent scratches on them..
dont know how to describe it in english.. normally you have sharp edges, but if you file down, some small pieces of the the mirror chip of..
But during my tests i realized, that the mirror lost contact to the plastic holder.. in terms of warming/heating up the mirror glas.
So pay attention. That could happen with the mirrorglas.
Some months ago, Canon ordered back some of the 5Ds because the used glue for the mirrors of the 5D was not so good. Some Cams did have the problem and my Cam seemed to be one of them, which will be meet this point, sooner or later..
So be carefull, not to "overheat" the glass during file down the mirror.
So it would be intelligent to think some minutes about cooling down the mirror by something acting as a heat sink.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
Ok, here are some images from the old mirror, after repairing the mirror box.
The images shows, what could also happen...
First the mirror, submirror unit .. the whole in the mirror comes from the crash with the HFT Planar 1.4/50mm in QBM Mount.. that was the big bang...
This happend after a bit of "filework"...
As you can see, there are 4 points, on which the mirror was glued to the
plastic holder..
If this would happen to you, you can try to reglue the mirror on this 4 points.. with super glue.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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egidio
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 222
Location: slovenia
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| Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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egidio wrote:
ok, so shaving brand new 5d mark2 would probably be a bad idea.
What's the workflow using live view with mirror-problematic lenses? Is it possible that you accidently exit live view mode while shooting? You have to unscrew lens after every shooting or after every shot? How is it while shooting video with such lenses? Does mirror close after you stop recording video.
Is the live view workflow easy and safe enough or its better to wait for a while and than shave mirror
thanks
_________________
I use: Flektogon 2.8/20, Flektogon 2.8/35, planar 50mm/1.4, Takumar 1.4/50mm, Takumar 1.9/85, MIR 24H, Mir1v, Industar-50-2, Helios-44-2, Pentacon 2.8/135, cyclop 85 1.5 |
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008
Posts: 3614
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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| Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
| egidio wrote: |
ok, so shaving brand new 5d mark2 would probably be a bad idea.
What's the workflow using live view with mirror-problematic lenses? Is it possible that you accidently exit live view mode while shooting? You have to unscrew lens after every shooting or after every shot? How is it while shooting video with such lenses? Does mirror close after you stop recording video.
Is the live view workflow easy and safe enough or its better to wait for a while and than shave mirror
thanks |
It's NOT A BAD IDEA -- it's A PERFECT IDEA..
I know what I am talking about -- the whole thing is HOW..
once again:
1 - nail brush
2 - traverse grinding
3 - no RUSH -- have a patience ...
You can not BREAK anything ..
tf
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
| egidio wrote: |
ok, so shaving brand new 5d mark2 would probably be a bad idea.
What's the workflow using live view with mirror-problematic lenses? Is it possible that you accidently exit live view mode while shooting? You have to unscrew lens after every shooting or after every shot? How is it while shooting video with such lenses? Does mirror close after you stop recording video.
Is the live view workflow easy and safe enough or its better to wait for a while and than shave mirror
thanks |
It's NOT A BAD IDEA -- it's A PERFECT IDEA..
I know what I am talking about -- the whole thing is HOW..
once again:
1 - nail brush
2 - traverse grinding
3 - no RUSH -- have a patience ...
You can not BREAK anything ..
tf |
Sorry,
-1
Thats not a good idea to do it with a brand new MKII.
First of all, the shown images are the result of doing it in the way, Trifox described and badly it has this result.
Second.. If you not hermetically sealing the mirror box, you get exactly with the fine sanding by using the nailfile so much dust in all areas of the cam, so especially if you often change the Lenses, are not really satisfied with the often neccessary sensor cleanings. Be also carefull under this aspect. The best way to shave the mirror is to do it, when the mirror or submirror is broken by accident. After i have seen what could happen i would never ever do it during the warranty first and second if the cam is not completely dismantled. For my thinking there are too much risks in doing so. There are no Lenses from older days, who really would legitimate to do this.
If the operation fails, there are more troubles the you think.
For example... if the Submirror breakes, you need to take the cam for nearly 200 Euro to a repair shop or Canon Service Point, as i did.
After receiving the repaired cam, first of all, the AF works absolutely correct, but there was no way, to focus correctly with MF Lenses..
Why?
The guys in the Canon Service Point adjust the AF Section correct, but are not really interested in a correct plane of the focussing screen.
So my AF Lenses works exactly but i have to correct the distance from the mirror to screen by myself !
This must be not normal for a Canon Service Point, but could happen if some trouble happend with shorting the mirror.
I would never think about trying this again, especially if the cam is still under warranty.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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rpo83
Joined: 01 Jun 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
I'm close to ordering a 5DII, one thing i would like to know, what is the effect in the viewfinder with a shaved mirror?
I fitted my 16/2.8 Elmarit to a friends 5DMKII and the mirror just caught the lens when at infinity focus. I would like to be able to use this lens on a FF body, so it seems a mirror shave is needed.
When removing material, is it mainly material from the centre of the mirror that needs removing, or would it be better to remove the same amount across the total width of the mirror??
_________________
Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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motleypixel
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Austin, TX USA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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motleypixel wrote:
| rpo83 wrote: |
| I'm close to ordering a 5DII, one thing i would like to know, what is the effect in the viewfinder with a shaved mirror? |
I too would like to know this.
| rpo83 wrote: |
| I fitted my 16/2.8 Elmarit to a friends 5DMKII and the mirror just caught the lens when at infinity focus. I would like to be able to use this lens on a FF body, so it seems a mirror shave is needed. |
Not necessary, the other option, depending on how far back the rear element extends, you could, depending again on if the rear element offers such a modification, file down the rear element housing rather than your mirror. Or maybe a wee-bit on the elements housing and a wee-bit on the mirror will work best?
| rpo83 wrote: |
| When removing material, is it mainly material from the centre of the mirror that needs removing, or would it be better to remove the same amount across the total width of the mirror?? |
Not that I've done this, but I would image more in the center. I would measure the diameter of the rear element and shave a somewhere between 50 to 75% of that distance on the mirror.
-Roy
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-Roy
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008
Posts: 3614
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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| Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
by shaving the mirror on 5D Mk II (I have done this successfully in my hands , you're loosing 1 mm with TELE LENSES - on focal lengths 135 mm ONWARDS
anything like 85 mm tele or less - no dark edge on the top
the dark edge becomes to be BIGGER when using i.e. MAKRO-PLANAR 100 and you are going to the 1:1 ...
Also
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