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What's the latest lens you added to your collection?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2025 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Arrived today, a cult classic I have been searching for ages (an affordable one anyway) a near mint Vivitar Series 1 80-180mm f4.5 Flat field Zoom macro lens. Fairly rare and originally designed for medical/ dental work. Sadly its an FD mount so I can't get to infinity on my 5D but for macro which is what I wanted it for that isn't an issue. One of these days I will stop splurging on lenses and get a mirrorless...



a quick test stack



PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2025 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
sasquatch wrote:
One of these days I will stop splurging on lenses and get a mirrorless...


A simple used Sony A7 is - at least here in Switzerland - around CHF / EUR / USD 200.--, or GBP 175.--

Another Viivitar here - the equally classical Series 1 Vivitar 3.8/24-48mm with Nikon AI mount. It came for free from a local photo store. There's some haze on one lens surface just behind the aperture, but cleaning it should not be major problem (removing the rear lens group seems fairly easy if some sources here on mflenses are correct). Comparing it with the equally large Minolta MD 4/24-50mm and the well known Tamron SP 3.5-3.8/24-48mm (13A) as well as the Pentax-A 4/24-50mm should be interesting.

Minolta AF 1.4/50mm - also from the wastebin - in a pretty good shape, pristine glass, no haze/fungus, and a perfectly clean aperture.

Zeiss Oberkochen Pro-Tessar 3.2/35mm for the Contaaflex SLRs.

Nikon AF 4.5-5.6/70-300mm G - clearly a cheapo "plastic fantastic" lens, but hey, let's see how it performs!

Plus a lot of interesting old leaflets, booklets and a most interesting 300 pages (!) catalogue from Engel-Feitknecht (Biel/Bienne, Switzerland) from around 1900, full of photographic material (cameras, lenses, accessories, chemicals, films & plates, papers ... you name it).

S


PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2025 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote






Picked this up for my sister who's birthday is today. I'll have a few days to play with it, before we can meet.
Probably put up a few basic samples in the appropriate A/F sub-forum...
There has been little available around here in m/f Nikon F for the last 6 months or so.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2025 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just ordered the Voigtlander Nokton 75mm f/1.5 Happy Dog


PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2025 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
caspert79 wrote:
Just ordered the Voigtlander Nokton 75mm f/1.5 Happy Dog


Congrats


PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2025 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Doc Sharptail wrote:

Picked this up for my sister who's birthday is today. I'll have a few days to play with it, before we can meet.
Probably put up a few basic samples in the appropriate A/F sub-forum...
There has been little available around here in m/f Nikon F for the last 6 months or so.

-D.S.


I wonder how that one would perform - Minolta made an AF 4/24-50mm in its earliest MinAF series (beercan series), complementing the f4 zoom series (24-50, 35-70, and 70-210). Even stopped down, the 4/24-50mm isn't really good on 24 MP FF, and the later MinAf 24-85mm and 24-105mm have better corner resolution at f11 (which is recommended for 24MP FF).

Let us know ...

S


PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2025 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I didn't buy any lenses in January....

enough of that...

on the way:


Olympus 50mm f1.4 in M42 mount

Nikkor 55mm f1.2 (non AI)

Pentax HD D FA 21mm f2.4 (ignore this one)


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Minolta AF 100mm 2.8 macro, too nice to let it elsewhere!
Beautiful solid oldie

Happy Dog


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:


I wonder how that one would perform - Minolta made an AF 4/24-50mm in its earliest MinAF series (beercan series), complementing the f4 zoom series (24-50, 35-70, and 70-210). Even stopped down, the 4/24-50mm isn't really good on 24 MP FF, and the later MinAf 24-85mm and 24-105mm have better corner resolution at f11 (which is recommended for 24MP FF).

Let us know ...

S


A few quick ugly snaps on the A-F sub forum.
This isn't the lens I wanted to get her. The AF-D 35-105mm that brought me into the store had a stuck focus collar, which is too bad. I have the M/F earlier version, and actually like it.
Got the 24-50mm mostly out of curiosity, and the odd mention of an earlier M/F version here on this forum.
Not seeing anything stellar yet, but it seems to meet minimum standards, anyways.

-D.S.


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Dec2024/Jan2025 :

KMZ Helios-44 58mm f2 (13 blades version) with Zenit 3M camera (was dirt cheap so it's more an investment)
Industar-61L/D 55mm f2.8 (came for free with above)
Tamron 90mm f2.5 SP Tele Macro BBAR MC 52B (A/I mount)
Fuji Fujinon-SW 28mm f3.5 EBC (M42)
Fuji Fujinon 55mm f1.8 EBC (M42)
Fuji X-Fujinon FM 50mm f1.9
Petri C.C Auto 50mm f2.8 (M42)
Konica Hexanon AR 57mm f1.4
Meyer-Optik Görlitz Telefogar 90mm f3.5 (altix)
Canon FL 200mm f4.5
Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 7.5cm f4.5 (enlarger probably)
KMZ Telemar-22-2 200mm f5.6


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Minolfan wrote:
Minolta AF 100mm 2.8 macro, too nice to let it elsewhere!
Beautiful solid oldie

Happy Dog


I love it as a portrait lens actually!


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Minolta MC Rokkor-PF 100mm 2.5



PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
caspert79 wrote:
Just ordered the Voigtlander Nokton 75mm f/1.5 Happy Dog


Will be interesting how it will compare to your Summicron 90.

Enjoy it!


PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
pabeu wrote:
caspert79 wrote:
Just ordered the Voigtlander Nokton 75mm f/1.5 Happy Dog


Will be interesting how it will compare to your Summicron 90.

Enjoy it!


Thanks. More modern I suspect, but not overly so like some other fast portrait lenses on the market. I usually like Voigtlander colors and contrast, the sunstars and build quality of course. Furthermore, it’s only 350 grams (the vm version), which is quite brilliant. Hope to show some pictures soon.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2025 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
one of the new arrivals here - Olympus G.Zuiko Auto-S 50mm f1.4

Olympus G.Zuiko Auto-S 50mm f1.4 (M42) by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

(that's a Super-Takumar 55/1.8 on the right)

Olympus G.Zuiko Auto-S 50mm f1.4 (M42) by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

(note the blemish/damage to the front element - I have yet to see it in any photos)

Olympus G.Zuiko Auto-S 50mm f1.4 (M42) by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

(M42 mount)


PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2025 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Went slightly mad this week with bidding but managed to grab a near mint m42 Panagor 21mm f4 and 3 Vivitar Series 1 lenses 24-48mm f3.8 and a 28-90mm f2.8-3.5 both with apertures stuck wide open which were going cheap and a Series 1 70-210mm f3.5 mk1 near mint.

I have discovered a novel way of getting apertures which are stuck wide open to close enough to start cleaning them without a total dismantle. Use a cotton wool bud to get some isopropyl alcohol down into the aperture blades rotate the lens to ensure it gets down in there then find a small circular Neodymium magnet and place it using tweezers in the middle of where the iris should close and out they shoot. From there use the buds/ alcohol to clean until it operates smoothly again.

I had nearly written both of the above lenses off until I thought about what the aperture blades were actually made of, ferrous metal!!


PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2025 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
This method is rather ill-advised for a couple of reasons:

1) The use of Isopropyl alcohol to clean blades in situ. As you've discovered, most vintage lenses have blades made of spring steel, steel that rusts very easily in the presence of water. Even if you are using 99% IPA, it's a hydrophilic substance and attracts water, so no matter what strength you use, you have a high likelihood of inducing rust on the blades.

Alcohol is also not particularly volatile, either, so there is also the risk that when you close up the lens, moisture and solvent will remain in there, and/or migrate throughout the lens, even if it appears dry.

It's a much better idea to use something like a couple of drops of naphtha/lighter fluid at a time on cotton swabs, since it does not carry water and dries out much more quickly/easily. Be sure to hit everything with an air blower before closing up to make sure you've removed any lingering drops of solvent that might be hiding in the nooks and crannies.

2) Putting a high power neodymium magnet runs the risk of inducing magnetism into the steel blades themselves, which can lead to slowing, particularly on smaller blades, exactly what you are trying to avoid by doing a cleaning. If you do insist on using a magnet like this, make sure to immediately remove it as soon as the blades pop out, and do not in ANY circumstances use it to hold the blades in place while cleaning, since the longer it is in contact with the blades, the more magnetized they will become.

sasquatch wrote:
I have discovered a novel way of getting apertures which are stuck wide open to close enough to start cleaning them without a total dismantle. Use a cotton wool bud to get some isopropyl alcohol down into the aperture blades rotate the lens to ensure it gets down in there then find a small circular Neodymium magnet and place it using tweezers in the middle of where the iris should close and out they shoot. From there use the buds/ alcohol to clean until it operates smoothly again.

I had nearly written both of the above lenses off until I thought about what the aperture blades were actually made of, ferrous metal!!


PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2025 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
This method is rather ill-advised for a couple of reasons:

1) The use of Isopropyl alcohol to clean blades in situ. As you've discovered, most vintage lenses have blades made of spring steel, steel that rusts very easily in the presence of water. Even if you are using 99% IPA, it's a hydrophilic substance and attracts water, so no matter what strength you use, you have a high likelihood of inducing rust on the blades.

Alcohol is also not particularly volatile, either, so there is also the risk that when you close up the lens, moisture and solvent will remain in there, and/or migrate throughout the lens, even if it appears dry.

It's a much better idea to use something like a couple of drops of naphtha/lighter fluid at a time on cotton swabs, since it does not carry water and dries out much more quickly/easily. Be sure to hit everything with an air blower before closing up to make sure you've removed any lingering drops of solvent that might be hiding in the nooks and crannies.

2) Putting a high power neodymium magnet runs the risk of inducing magnetism into the steel blades themselves, which can lead to slowing, particularly on smaller blades, exactly what you are trying to avoid by doing a cleaning. If you do insist on using a magnet like this, make sure to immediately remove it as soon as the blades pop out, and do not in ANY circumstances use it to hold the blades in place while cleaning, since the longer it is in contact with the blades, the more magnetized they will become.



Thanks, some good points. I didn't realise that about the isopropyl. I had been blasting it with warm air and leaving it open over night to make sure it was dried before reassembling but I will have to pick up some lighter fluid for the future.

With the magnet I had already thought about magnetising the blades so only kept it in the very centre of the iris opening for a couple secs without it touching the sides or the blades themselves. The pull worked just enough to draw them out about a quarter way closed as they were junked up pretty bad. It was only a very small neodymium magnet about .5cm in diameter with a hole in the centre I used to get the tweezers though.


PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2025 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Tokina 90mm /2.5 whole set in mint condition including the lens and the 1:1 adapter. Don’t know whether originally there was a lens hood with this set.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2025 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fujica EBC X-Fujinon 50mm 1.6
Nice compact lens, but I don't yet have an adapter for it.
There is one coming from China (Ebay) but not very fast.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2025 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Minolfan wrote:
Fujica EBC X-Fujinon 50mm 1.6
Nice compact lens, but I don't yet have an adapter for it.
There is one coming from China (Ebay) but not very fast.


I'll be curious to see how you like it. I picked up the non-EBC version a few years ago, but I've never really put it through its paces. It seems like a very capable fast fifty.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2025 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
This method is rather ill-advised for a couple of reasons:

1) The use of Isopropyl alcohol to clean blades in situ. As you've discovered, most vintage lenses have blades made of spring steel, steel that rusts very easily in the presence of water. Even if you are using 99% IPA, it's a hydrophilic substance and attracts water, so no matter what strength you use, you have a high likelihood of inducing rust on the blades.

Alcohol is also not particularly volatile, either, so there is also the risk that when you close up the lens, moisture and solvent will remain in there, and/or migrate throughout the lens, even if it appears dry.

It's a much better idea to use something like a couple of drops of naphtha/lighter fluid at a time on cotton swabs, since it does not carry water and dries out much more quickly/easily. Be sure to hit everything with an air blower before closing up to make sure you've removed any lingering drops of solvent that might be hiding in the nooks and crannies.

2) Putting a high power neodymium magnet runs the risk of inducing magnetism into the steel blades themselves, which can lead to slowing, particularly on smaller blades, exactly what you are trying to avoid by doing a cleaning. If you do insist on using a magnet like this, make sure to immediately remove it as soon as the blades pop out, and do not in ANY circumstances use it to hold the blades in place while cleaning, since the longer it is in contact with the blades, the more magnetized they will become.

sasquatch wrote:
I have discovered a novel way of getting apertures which are stuck wide open to close enough to start cleaning them without a total dismantle. Use a cotton wool bud to get some isopropyl alcohol down into the aperture blades rotate the lens to ensure it gets down in there then find a small circular Neodymium magnet and place it using tweezers in the middle of where the iris should close and out they shoot. From there use the buds/ alcohol to clean until it operates smoothly again.

I had nearly written both of the above lenses off until I thought about what the aperture blades were actually made of, ferrous metal!!


Last lens I disassembled and cleaned is the Vivitar (Kiron made) 28mm 2.0. The well known Kiron grease degradation making the helicoids (3) movement a tour de force and the migration of oil to the aperture blades a real problem. After removing the glass cells the barrel in total went straight into the first lighter fuel bath etc. I keep some quarter filled bottles with increasing purity in stock, last bath with new lighter fuel. Then outdoors a small container filled with boiled water + soap, the barrel still wet of lighter fluid goes into that bath and is stirred, the lighter fluid + remaining fat with soapy water emulsion goes to the surface. Lighter fuel evaporates, top of the water surface drained a bit. Barrel taken out and immediately heated with a hair dryer. The barrel is in an instant as dry as possible then. Put it on a warm place then to add grease on the helicoids later on. No oxidation whatsoever.

About neodymium magnets making the spring steel blades magnetic, yes they do but the remaining magnetism will in no way be an issue with manual apertures and have neither any influence on vintage SLR lenses with an auto mechanical actuator from the body. I have used the neodymium magnets to hold aperture blades while fitting the last and have not had any issues since. Actually they are so thin and light that the magnetic poles are only acting at the edges of the blades so you can make little trains of them by pulling the first blade over a flat surface. In the image demonstrated with similar shutter blades I have taken from compact camera lenses. The longest chain is one of 6 blades, longer and one bond will brake. On top of one another they do not stick to one another as only the crossing edges have some magnetic force.



PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2025 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nikkor S-C Auto 55mm f1.2, arrived late last week, on the left:

Nikkor SC 55/1.2 by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

Nikkor SC 55/1.2 by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

Nikkor SC 55/1.2 by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

Nikkor SC 55/1.2 by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr


PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2025 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
That Pentax "Special" is one rare thing. One of my wishes. Do you know how many were made?
And what nice cakes are those inbetween?


PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2025 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
a very humble auto yashinon satin black 5cm f2
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