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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:22 pm Post subject: Rain Forest/Wilderness Beaches Thread - Mostly Flektogon 20 |
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Laurence wrote:
I took a lot of images at the wilderness beaches and the rain forest valleys in Olympic National Park, almost exclusively with the Flek 20/4.
The lens is extremely versatile, and can go to almost macro levels as well as beautiful infinity levels. I am becoming very fond of the lens. This lens is mounted almost permanently on the K110D now...
I am in full agreement with Orio, that this lens handles high contrast situations with ease. A VERY good tool!
Queets Valley Alders
Flek 20/4
f:8, 1/20th
Tripod
Vine Maple Lace Against Western Red Cedar
Tamron SP 70-210
f:8, 1/15th +1.5 compensation
Tripod
Spruce and Rain Forest Light (In the rain)
Flek 20/4
f:8, 1/3 second +1 compensation
Tripod
Image posted previously, this one at higher pixel count
Trail Copse (In the rain)
Flek 20/4
f:8, 7/10 second +1 compensation
Tripod
Image posted previously, this one at higher pixel count
Red White and Blue (subalpine meadow)
Flek 20/4
f:8, 1/350th @ ISO800 (windy)
Hand-held
_________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
All are great, but this one "Vine Maple Lace Against Western Red Cedar" is fantastic!! _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Beautiful captures as always! Now I like the best last one. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
What kind of lenshood do you use?
I have one for the pentax 20/4,5, and can work. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008 Posts: 2155 Location: Maine, USA
Expire: 2012-03-08
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:11 am Post subject: |
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Schnauzer wrote:
Beautiful shots. Very enjoyable to look at. _________________ Ron |
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Eric999
Joined: 02 Jul 2008 Posts: 12
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:55 am Post subject: |
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Eric999 wrote:
I love your photos !
A little question : what do you mean with +1 compensation ? Overexposed your pic with +1 ? |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6557 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:53 am Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
Beautiful woodland shots, Larry. The red flower seems to verge on the garish - was the sun hitting it? _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop Norway
http://www.fomafoto.com/
Webshop Czech
https://fomaobchod.cz/inshop/scripts/shop.aspx?action=DoChangeLanguage&LangID=4 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:25 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
All fantastic pictures, and #1 wins the prize for me. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:51 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
congrats! all photos are exceptional _________________ T* |
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Sandie
Joined: 05 May 2008 Posts: 217 Location: Austria
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:06 am Post subject: |
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Sandie wrote:
These photos are amazing!
PS. Is it risky to use such great lens in rainforest ? I mean whether it is easy to get fungus there? _________________ Canon 5DII + Canon 5D + Canon 350D + Pentax MZ10 + Pracktica BX20 + Mamiya 1000TL + Yashica TL Electro X + Yashica FR1 + Pentax ES II
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 20/f4, Flektogon 35/f2.4, Pancolar 50/f1.4, Pancolar 50/f1.8, Tessar 50/f2.8, Pancolar 80/f1.8, Sonnar 135/f3.5, Sonnar 135/f4, Sonnar 180/f2.8;
Pentacon: 50/f1.8, 135/f2.8, 200/f4, 300/f4;
Meyer: Orestegon 29/f2.8, Lydith 30/f3.5, Domiplan 50/f2.8, Trioplan 100/f2.8, Orestor 100/f2.8, Telemegor 250/f5.5;
Revuenon: 24/f4(Ennalyt), 28/f3.5(Ennalyt), 200/f3.5(Tomioka);
Yashica: 28/f2.8; 55/f1.2;
Soligor 135/f2.8; 35/f2.8;
Misc: Schacht 50/f2.8; Steinheil 135/f3.5; Mamiya 55/f1.4; Fujinon 135/f3.5; Tokina 70-220/f3.5; Tamron 28/f2.5; Helios 58/f2; Kiron 28/f2; Volna 80/f2.8; Mir 24M 35/f2;Carenar 85-210/f4.5; Olympus 50/f1.8; Chinon 35-80/f3.5-4.9; Pentax 55/f2; |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:12 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Sandie wrote: |
These photos are amazing!
PS. Is it risky to use such great lens in rainforest ? I mean whether it is easy to get fungus there? |
You surely can get more spores there, but fungus needs time to develop on a lens. So a proper lens cleaning (barrel and glasses) after each forest session should keep the risk away. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:20 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Orio wrote: |
fungus needs time to develop on a lens |
+ moisture (not just humidity)
+ darkness
+ no ventilation
There's no risk, even when there is high humidity, if you keep your lenses at an even temperature, in the light and well ventilated. Come back from a rainforest and leave your damp lenses in your damp, dark camera bag and you're asking for trouble. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:28 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Anyway lens hygiene remains the first step in my opinion.
All the others (controlled humidity, light, air) are also needed, but to you keep your lenses clean is important. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:37 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Glorious shots again Laurence. I like the Western Red Cedar one. You keep giving me challenges to try, I can't keep up with you, and you have such fantastic subjects to choose from too!
Eric999 wrote: |
I love your photos !
A little question : what do you mean with +1 compensation ? Overexposed your pic with +1 ? |
Eric - yes, +1 means that the exposure is one stop more than the camera's auto exposure setting. It's only really needed on a camera in auto-exposure mode to override the settings. You could do just the same in manual mode by setting the shutter speed one stop slower than the meter is suggesting. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:42 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Anyway lens hygiene remains the first step in my opinion.
All the others (controlled humidity, light, air) are also needed, but to you keep your lenses clean is important. |
Oh, yes, that's quite correct. But in fact fungus needs all three factors together (darkness, moisture and still air) as well as organic matter to feed on, in order to germinate and grow. If you only avoid just one of them you will probably be OK, but avoid all three and you can be confident. (Orio, treating and preventing fungus in buildings is part of my job so I've learnt a lot about this subject.) _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I can imagine, Peter!
Do you have a suggestion on how to treat saltpeter on the floors?
My father's house has saltpeter on the floors in the ground floor. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:25 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Orio wrote: |
I can imagine, Peter!
Do you have a suggestion on how to treat saltpeter on the floors?
My father's house has saltpeter on the floors in the ground floor. |
I'm intrigued - did he use it for gunpowder?
Saltpetre is either potassium or sodium nitrate. It's a white powdery substance when it's dry, but it dissolves in water very easily so often you can't actually see it. It appears on floor and walls as moisture dries out (it's called efflorescence) and usually the moisture has been drawn up from the soil by capillary action, bringing the dissolved salt with it. So this could mean the floor is not damp-proof. Also the salt is hygroscopic - it draws in moisture from the air and causes damp patches that way. If the salt is coming up from the soil you'll never stop it until the floor is made damp-proof.
I don't want to hijack Laurence's thread with this, but I'd welcome the chance to help if you could tell me more about the floor finish and the problem the salt is causing. The picture of the outside of your father's house got me really interested in its condition. Maybe you could send me some pictures. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
I can imagine, Peter!
Do you have a suggestion on how to treat saltpeter on the floors?
My father's house has saltpeter on the floors in the ground floor. |
I'm intrigued - did he use it for gunpowder?
Saltpetre is either potassium or sodium nitrate. It's a white powdery substance when it's dry, but it dissolves in water very easily so often you can't actually see it. It appears on floor and walls as moisture dries out (it's called efflorescence) and usually the moisture has been drawn up from the soil by capillary action, bringing the dissolved salt with it. So this could mean the floor is not damp-proof. Also the salt is hygroscopic - it draws in moisture from the air and causes damp patches that way. If the salt is coming up from the soil you'll never stop it until the floor is made damp-proof.
I don't want to hijack Laurence's thread with this, but I'd welcome the chance to help if you could tell me more about the floor finish and the problem the salt is causing. The picture of the outside of your father's house got me really interested in its condition. Maybe you could send me some pictures. |
Thanks Peter. Yes the house has humidity problem in the ground floor. The house was actually a barn that my father and a construction worker restructured in the early 70s.
The house was made with little money and so the floor was probably not made with the technology that is required to avoid such problems.
I have already made restructuring to the roof and the terraces, but to fix the floor a lot of money is needed and so for the moment the thing is delayed
I will surely post some pictures. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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Laurence wrote:
No problem about "hijacking"! I love to learn new things, and didn't know the properties of the saltpetre before.
I'm wondering if it might be as "simple" as putting a layer of Tyvek or similar moisture barrier down? _________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Laurence wrote: |
No problem about "hijacking"! I love to learn new things, and didn't know the properties of the saltpetre before.
I'm wondering if it might be as "simple" as putting a layer of Tyvek or similar moisture barrier down? |
Good! Then firstly I need to correct what I said earlier. True saltpetre (potassium nitrate) is the flammable stuff used to make gunpowder and in fireworks, cigarettes and toothpaste! You know in the old Westerns, when you see a trail of gunpowder burning, or when the baddy lights a fuse with his see-gar, that's saltpetre. The white fluffy salts that form when structural dampness is drying out are chlorides or sulphides. Normally they are in the soil (or in the structural materials). They dissolve in groundwater and are drawn up into the structure by capillary action. They're often called saltpetre, but it's not strictly correct.
A membrane is what's needed but it would need to be below the floor finish and have enough weight above it to prevent the moisture lifting it, so Orio is right that it isn't a simple or cheap job. If there's a nice flat concrete surface it could be sealed with an epoxy membrane, but that's very expensive and has to be done by specialists. Also, as it's an old barn, my bet is that the walls are damp too. That's often simply cured by injecting a silicon-based liquid, but any plaster up to 1 metre high would need to be renewed because of the hygroscopic salts already there, so again it's a major job.
If our Tyvek is the same as yours over there, it's a breathable woven membrane for roofs and timber-framed walls. It allows water vapour to escape while keeping out liquid rainwater, but under constant damp conditions and under the pressure of capillary action it wouldn't be effective as a damp-proof membrane in a solid floor. Normally a heavy gauge polythene sheet or two or more coats of liquid bitumen would be used. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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Laurence wrote:
Sandie wrote: |
These photos are amazing!
PS. Is it risky to use such great lens in rainforest ? I mean whether it is easy to get fungus there? |
Sandie: People who have their homes directly within the rain forest valleys have big problems with fungus and mildew in their lenses, and other glasswork as well.
I always try to take a few minutes to "open up" my lenses to the sunshine out on my patio, on every sunshine day. I also store them out of the leather cases, and in a glass cabinet that has a small UV bulb in it. _________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Magnificent set of pictures! These rival your medium format efforts, such
beautiful colors you're getting with the Flek/K110D combo!
Bill |
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bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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bob955i wrote:
Seeing these just makes me want to head out to our UK equivalent myself Larry.
You need to get one of these Flek 20 thingies yourself Bill....
Either before or after the Planar 1.4/50 will do.... |
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008 Posts: 2155 Location: Maine, USA
Expire: 2012-03-08
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Schnauzer wrote:
I have looked at these over and over. Every time this thread comes up I look again. Just beautiful images.
We probably have similar here, but I would walk right by it and never see it. _________________ Ron |
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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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Laurence wrote:
Bill wrote: Magnificent set of pictures! These rival your medium format efforts, such beautiful colors you're getting with the Flek/K110D combo!
I hope, Bill, to improve my medium format scanning. I would THINK that with the big transparency, I could exceed the output of the Flek/K110D combo...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob wrote: Seeing these just makes me want to head out to our UK equivalent myself Larry.
I ALWAYS want to head back out to the rain forest, Bob! Thanks for commenting!
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Ron wrote: I have looked at these over and over. Every time this thread comes up I look again. Just beautiful images. We probably have similar here, but I would walk right by it and never see it.
Perhaps the "walking right by it and not seeing it" is a product of familiarity? In other words, having grown up at the edge of the rain forest might have made me (or anyone else) more aware of the little vignettes within the forest? I think this might be possible, because if I go to street-shooting mode, I can NEVER get the same types of images as someone who has spent a lot of time in the city streets. _________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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