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esrods
Joined: 23 Sep 2007 Posts: 148 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:47 am Post subject: How do you guys clean the lens? |
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esrods wrote:
Hello all,
40 years of grime...
How do you guys clean the lens exterior?
Also how do you clean the glasses? Do you use normal lens cleaning liquid?
cheers
Ed _________________ Edward Hwa Suck Shin
http://www.spankwire.com/Asian-Evelyn-Lin/video165892/ |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:55 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
Eclipse and pec*pad _________________ T* |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:55 am Post subject: Re: How do you guys clean the lens? |
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Jesito wrote:
esrods wrote: |
Hello all,
40 years of grime...
How do you guys clean the lens exterior?
Also how do you clean the glasses? Do you use normal lens cleaning liquid?
cheers
Ed |
Hi Ed!
I use normal glass cleaner and a piece of soft microfiber fabric. It works fine for me.
Best regards,
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:59 am Post subject: Re: How do you guys clean the lens? |
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LucisPictor wrote:
esrods wrote: |
...how do you clean the glasses? |
Very carefully!
OK, all jokes aside. I first use a lens blower, then a soft natural lens brush. The remaining spots I try to analyse: are these just some kind of fingerprints or perhaps even some harder particles?
For the prints I use Eclipse liquid and for particles I blow and brush and blow and brush etc.
If they still remain, I check if they influence the picture - if not, I leave them there.
If you want to remove some kind of grease, it's harder. Sometime Eclipse, sometimes cleaning fluid for contact lenses can do the trick, but I would really test that before doing it... _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Flor27
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 1195 Location: Paris, France
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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Flor27 wrote:
I don't clean often my lenses, but I use an air blower most of the time.
I had great succes for cleaning dirty old lenses with warm water and soap. _________________ Switching from M42 to Minolta MD & Contax/Yashica |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6557 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
My lens cleaning solution is...
Per 500ml of water,
Five drops of dish detergent
Five drops of bleach
I fill a squeezy bottle with this and squirt it onto a lens cleaning tissue / cotton bud / hands as required. Makes a great hand degreaser too. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop Norway
http://www.fomafoto.com/
Webshop Czech
https://fomaobchod.cz/inshop/scripts/shop.aspx?action=DoChangeLanguage&LangID=4 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I use three different fluids, sometimes alone, sometimes in a sequence.
Plus Bril optical cleaning sheets.
I have found out that not all coatings react the same way to the same cleaning fluids.
Some surfaces are best cleaned by one, some others by another one.
I use:
- Eclipse fluid (should be a kind of alcohol)
- Isopropyl alcohol 99% pure
- Zeiss cleaning fluid
Generally I find that the glasses that are best cleaned with Eclipse, are not cleaned well by Isopropyl, and the other way around.
In some cases, neither works.
When neither works, I generally make one pass of Zeiss cleaning fluid following Zeiss instructions.
This generally leaves the lens in excellent condition, and with a protective film. If I am able to spread the Zeiss fluid well, I leave it that way, because it will be the best protection for the glass. If instead I can see traces of the fluid, I remove them using Isopropyl first (which removes the fluid) and, if needed, Eclipse as final stage, which removes the Isopropyl remains.
If nothing of the above works, then I use one Bril sheet - and this always solve the problem. I keep it as extreme ratio though, because I am not 100% sure that it's harmless on coating. But it's surely the most effective solutions. Thanks to Attila I bought 5 packs of Bril sheets - they are easy to find in Hungary, very difficult here.
- _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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esrods
Joined: 23 Sep 2007 Posts: 148 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:12 am Post subject: |
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esrods wrote:
Thanks guys.
Always very helpful.
Finger marks on MC glasses/filters are shocker to clean.
I will start with Eclipse fluid and Iso alcohol.
Cheers
Ed _________________ Edward Hwa Suck Shin
http://www.spankwire.com/Asian-Evelyn-Lin/video165892/ |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:42 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Filters are a lot more difficult to clean than front glasses, for whatever reason. Have no idea why, but that's my personal experience. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Flor27
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 1195 Location: Paris, France
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:43 am Post subject: |
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Flor27 wrote:
I've heard it's because of the coating - different from lenses ones - that make them so sticky to oil and dust... _________________ Switching from M42 to Minolta MD & Contax/Yashica |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Filters are a lot more difficult to clean than front glasses, for whatever reason. Have no idea why, but that's my personal experience. |
I share this impressions, and I do not know the reason, either... _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2378 Location: Faversham Kent UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Richard_D wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
Filters are a lot more difficult to clean than front glasses, for whatever reason. Have no idea why, but that's my personal experience. |
I share this impressions, and I do not know the reason, either... |
Me neither
For lenses - I find 99% of the time, hot breath and a microfibre cloth is enough, but for filters...
I wonder whether my love of chilli and garlic keeps the fungus away? _________________ Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Hot breath can be dangerous you supply fungus with food from your breath.One of the worst idea. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2378 Location: Faversham Kent UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Richard_D wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Hot breath can be dangerous you supply fungus with food from your breath.One of the worst idea. |
I've not heard that - thanks for the warning...
Touch wood, I'm still a fungus virgin... _________________ Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
To get fungus need next things.
- food available in air , breath can accelerate process
- darkness
- humid air above 55%
If you have dry environment you don't need to worry about at all, if humidity over on 55% for 10-14 days first spots are comes like oily spots. To develop good visible fungus take months or years. So not easy job to produce fungus especially for selling ....
_________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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baldeagle21b
Joined: 10 Nov 2007 Posts: 4
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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baldeagle21b wrote:
For fingerprints and other oily marks, I use an old-fashioned remedy - lampblack, which is pure amorphous carbon. I got some pure lampblack from a chemical supply house and use a fuzzed-up cotton swab to apply it to the lens. Just enough to darken the tip of the swab is enough. The stuff sucks up oil and film residue off a lens or filter like a sponge. Then a flick of a soft artists brush or a puff of air will knock off any particles clinging to the glass. It's like a home-made lens pen. One caution - the stuff is very messy if it escapes the container - it's a very fine black powder and will get into everything if you let it. |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:22 am Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
For a really deep clean there is a product called "Opticlean" by a company named Caliope - see it here:
http://www.caliope.co.uk/
I have used it and it is remarkable, but labour intensive. Glass seems like new afterwards. Does not seem to affect the coatings, but I have mainly done nikkors and Vivs
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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Flor27
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 1195 Location: Paris, France
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Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:48 am Post subject: |
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Flor27 wrote:
This morning I had another great succes in removing huge fingerprints on a MC Jupiter-37AM :
- air blow, gently brush, airblow, gently brush in order to remove most of the particules without scratching the glass
- hot tap water on small part of uncolored & unperfumed toilet paper; must not be flooded in order to not let any water goes into the lens
- put a very tiny amout of a dish soap drop on tip of the wet paper
- clean very gently the lens
- with another hot wet toilet paper, rinse gently left soap
- remove any water left with another toilet paper
- if any marks are lefts, remove them with your breath mist and another toilet paper
- finaly remove any paper dust with air blower _________________ Switching from M42 to Minolta MD & Contax/Yashica |
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Flor27
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 1195 Location: Paris, France
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Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Flor27 wrote:
patrickh wrote: |
For a really deep clean there is a product called "Opticlean" by a company named Caliope - see it here:
http://www.caliope.co.uk/
I have used it and it is remarkable, but labour intensive. Glass seems like new afterwards. Does not seem to affect the coatings, but I have mainly done nikkors and Vivs |
There is someone who does the same thing with non optical dedicated product called Discofilm (from Germany) - used to clean vinyl records :
http://www.sensor-film.com/cleaning.html
Look at this video where he cleans a 5D sensor !
I would like to try on dismantled lenses but no Discofilm here... _________________ Switching from M42 to Minolta MD & Contax/Yashica |
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baldeagle21b
Joined: 10 Nov 2007 Posts: 4
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:28 am Post subject: |
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baldeagle21b wrote:
patrickh wrote: |
For a really deep clean there is a product called "Opticlean" by a company named Caliope - see it here:
http://www.caliope.co.uk/
I have used it and it is remarkable, but labour intensive. Glass seems like new afterwards. Does not seem to affect the coatings, but I have mainly done nikkors and Vivs
patrickh |
Opticlean seems to work well, but it is pretty pricey stuff. Similar results are possible with collodion U.S.P., not the flexible medical variety. I have experimented with it. It would be useful for removing heavy soil from a lens, but it must be used outdoors since it contains some nasty volatile chemicals like ether. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:44 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Opticlean is obsolete for today's lenses, read what they say, "do not use on plastic lenses!"
http://www.caliope.co.uk/caution.htm
_________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
I suspect it would actually melt the lenses or at least rip them right out of their mounts.
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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Flor27
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 1195 Location: Paris, France
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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Flor27 wrote:
patrickh wrote: |
I suspect it would actually melt the lenses or at least rip them right out of their mounts. |
Or melt the mount also :
_________________ Switching from M42 to Minolta MD & Contax/Yashica |
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