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PITA Loading Film onto Spool
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:15 pm    Post subject: PITA Loading Film onto Spool Reply with quote

I spent almost an hour trying to load some Ilford FP4+ 125 film onto the spool for developing. I'd practiced many times with an old roll of Fuji colour fim and found it a breeze. The Ilford film is so flimsy and kept getting jammed or just not taking up.

Anyone else found this?

I'm going to try blacking out a window next time so I don't have to use a fiddly changing bag.


Last edited by martinsmith99 on Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:47 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also had some issues loading film, i manage to keep the tip of the film out while rewinding it, so i cut the edges in light conditions. Then it goes under the sheets/ bathroom. It might be the best solution.

The changing bag is a bad one for me, too few space. i sold mine


PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use aprons guys.

Here is a video (kitsche retro styled) on how to.

Get them on ebay or new from freestyle etc...

Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7_TDLaufDw


PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some reels are a pita to load yet others find the same make a breeze - ymmv.
Years ago and recently, I've never had trouble with Paterson reels, but I always make sure they're bone dry and clip the leading corners of the film. From what I see of the Jobo reels I have, the same procedure should work ok.

ps. Get the biggest changing bag you can find, it makes a helluva difference. Also, if working seated at a bench, you might find it helpful to put a cardboard box inside the bag to hold it wide open and up.


PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farside wrote:
Get the biggest changing bag you can find, it makes a helluva difference. Also, if working seated at a bench, you might find it helpful to put a cardboard box inside the bag to hold it wide open and up.


Or construct a changing box, like those used by labs for special jobs like the camera failed to rewind the film, etc. Same idea as changing bag but it is a light-tight box with a light-tight lid, with pair of sleeves like that on a changing bag. Scrap plywood or MDF boards would be more than sufficient, and if you are thinking of using it for more than a few minutes, such as loading multiple reels, it is also easy to incorporate a light-proof air vent as well.


PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Use aprons guys.

Here is a video (kitsche retro styled) on how to.

Get them on ebay or new from freestyle etc...

Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7_TDLaufDw

Not easy to find in the UK Sad


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GRRRRR

3 rolls have all gone the same way. And I'm still unable to find a 35mm apron.


Last edited by martinsmith99 on Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:35 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

I assumed you use Paterson? Perhaps you should give Jobo 1500 series a shot.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seele wrote:
Martin,

I assumed you use Paterson? Perhaps you should give Jobo 1500 series a shot.

Yes, Paterson. I have Universal & 35mm tanks. Fuji film is not a problem but Ilford just won't take up. I've tried with & without a taper. Everything bone dry.

I'll check the Jobo.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lately used only Foma 100. The film rolls up like a snake, but i manage to put it into the reel without major problems. The film goes fine but tends to block at the end, so i go slowly. Paterson reel Cool


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worst case scenario, I stop using Ilford films.

I intend to experiment a bit with different films. I must admit, the Ilford FP4 has more grain than I expected.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

martinsmith99 wrote:
Worst case scenario, I stop using Ilford films.

I intend to experiment a bit with different films. I must admit, the Ilford FP4 has more grain than I expected.


I think FP4 is fine grain enough as long as you process it sympathetically. For sharpness I like Rodinal, but for most people, Ilford's own LC29 works very well, and fine grain too.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last roll was Ilford Delta and I've found this pretty grainy. I think FP4 is actually better. In some shots the grain is good, but any landscape shot is not so clever.

Here's a recent crop from a shot with FP4 and Ilfosol 3 (I think I ran it through noise ninja too) :



Taken from:



PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin, there's an apron for sale on Ebay right now, finishes tomorrow, it looks like 135 size but I'm not sure. I think you could get one cheaper if you're patient.
Click here to see on Ebay

I got mine by buying a complete Kodacraft tank. Most of these are on sale in USA, like this one:
Click here to see on Ebay


PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's strange - I don't have any problems at all with Ilford films and the Paterson spool. I tried to explain in words how I do it, but it's much easier to show you a picture. I hope this helps.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

Although the digitizing process loses a lot of raw information, I think it might be a case of reticulation, even though it might be somewhat unlikely: make sure each subsequent solution is within 5˚C of the previous one.

Another thought: the eyes pick up the finest details, the parts of the building with lots of details do not seem grainy, but the sky area with a pretty much uniform tone will indeed show grain.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks - All the solutions are kept at 20'C. Sometimes the shots on the same roll are very low grain, sometimes not, so maybe it's scanner noise I'm seeing.


PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never used Ilford film so I can't offer suggestions about it. But I have found the easiest reels to load are the stainless steel one from Hewes. I think they're made in the UK. Expensive in the US, but worth it.

--Geoff


PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
Thanks - All the solutions are kept at 20'C. Sometimes the shots on the same roll are very low grain, sometimes not, so maybe it's scanner noise I'm seeing.


Is your software set to sharpen? If so, turn it off.


PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Epson software and everything turned off. The only adjustment I make when scanning is to adjust the levels. For some reason the scanner software clips the whites and blacks by default.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Peter - Getting the film started isn't too much of a problem. It either stops taking up almost straight away or jumps off the spiral at about mid-point.

I have another changing bag coming and I also have another tank whichj I bought a while ago so maybe this will cure the problem.

I missed out on that apron but I think the seller has more as another has cropped up which I'm hoping to snatch. I did contact Freestyle and they no longer stock the 35mm apron. I take it that the aprons fit into a Paterson tank?

I always leave the film out slightly when taking it from the camera and leave the cartridge on when I'm feeding it in. Is it better to remove the film from the cartidge completely before attempting to load it?


PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

martinsmith99 wrote:
... Getting the film started isn't too much of a problem. It either stops taking up almost straight away or jumps off the spiral at about mid-point.


With your more detailed description I can think of a few things:

Getting the film into the entry point is of course no problem, and if it stops taking up almost straight away, it means it hits the ball bearing ratchets, but the ratchets fails to allow the film to go past them. Examine the ratchet mechanism to ensure the ball bearings rattle freely in its ramped spaces.

If the film jumps out when a certain length has been fed through, it means the length of film in the spiral has developed a resistance against further ingress, which is greater than the grip of the ratchet mechanism. The corner, or both corners of the leading end of the film might have caught one of the spokes, where the remedy is to make sure that the corners are nicely trimmed to be a little rounded. Another possibility is that the spiral coils are either moist, or having a build-up of dried chemicals, making the surfaces less slippery. When that happens, I soak the spirals in a solution of TC-1 and that should take the residue off.

martinsmith99 wrote:


I have another changing bag coming and I also have another tank whichj I bought a while ago so maybe this will cure the problem.

I missed out on that apron but I think the seller has more as another has cropped up which I'm hoping to snatch. I did contact Freestyle and they no longer stock the 35mm apron. I take it that the aprons fit into a Paterson tank?

I always leave the film out slightly when taking it from the camera and leave the cartridge on when I'm feeding it in. Is it better to remove the film from the cartidge completely before attempting to load it?


For me I prefer to take the film completely out of the cassette before loading. Sometimes when the loading into a Paterson spiral gets tough, I load it in from the spool end, where it's factory cut to have nice rounded corners at the end.

There again I don't have any loading problem at all, as I only use Jobo.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never had problems with Ilford films especially the fp4, to be honest whatever the film i fought at times to load in into reel, now i've found the good method its over film is loaded in one go, slowly.

The tip of the film is kept outside, then a nice clean cut on the edges seems to be important in order of a proper ttip load which is more than half of the job. I also unroll entirely the film from the cassette, then the loading is very easy, if the film resists stop and pull it gently in place. Paterson reel.

As for the fp4 and grain its an agitation issue, i also had this trouble in the beginning of lab work, heres one pic from my debuts.

FP4 @ 125 Tetenal ultrafin & Olympus OM2, agitation method was "ilford". i've now switched to the "agfa" one and i have more regular results, i don't shake anymore i use the tool to mix the whole. Worx fine Cool



PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
... Getting the film started isn't too much of a problem. It either stops taking up almost straight away or jumps off the spiral at about mid-point.

I agree with Seele about the dried chemicals, the film wash process doesn't flush out the grooves properly on its own. It's very important to clean the spiral while it's still wet, otherwise the chemicals leave a sticky residue which clogs up the ball bearings and prevents the film sliding along the groove. I separate both sides of the spiral and give them both a good scrub with a nailbrush in hot water and a little detergent, rinse under running cold water and then leave them out to dry.

Seele, what is TC-1?


PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
Seele, what is TC-1?


It is "Tray Cleaner", a simple solution made out of two components; it can take out the silver stains in trays and spirals.