Lighting and macro photography...how to?

[mo]

Hi
Another question.I have the Macro Takumar 4/50 and I am sitting here playing around with it (being inspired by a certain macro spider) and a flash that I had picked up on eBay.This is the flash below.I have taken a few shots trying at different apertures mainly F16 but not really having a clue where to start.Since I use film I would like some helpful tips /tricks before I waste too much film.Even my photo book was not helpful.
Thanks
My models that I am trying to shoot are my Practika IVFB and Ricoh TLS both chrome...on a red sheet as a background.
The Flash has a setting of 4 angle settings 30,45,60,90...I had it set on 45 to start with.I know direct light would be to harsh am I on the right track.

#1

#2

[wilson.c]

A flash meter would probably be able to get you ballpark exposure and you can bracket from there.

[Orio]

Mofo, on-camera flash is never a good solution for closeup shot.
You may be able to attenuate by pointing upwards or adding a diffuser screen, but that would only get you an "ok" shot at best.

I let you the flash experts give you some more detailed solutions, I am not a flash user but if I had to, I would personally go for two synced flashes uisng remote cords to position them, and of course screened, and helped by reflecting panels if needed.

[Himself]

Apart that flash you need also a flash bracket.
Tilt the head as much as possible ( dunno if yours has that feature).

[visualopsins]

some homebrewed macro-flash setups:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/forums/?ID=153949944

and

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/forums/?ID=153944244

[marty]

Hello, Mo.
As already pointed out on camera flash is not a working solution for macro (apart the case of a dedicated ring unit = $$$). Mounting the flash on a bracket or on a stand a trigger it with a cable or a wireless device looks like the right solution. I'm experimenting myself with such setup. I found that finding the right exposure involves some math to do, as with older units no TTL metering is available for flash exposures. I've found out that the Calhoun formula
seems to work for me. I've made some promising experiments indoors with a simple subject and got some printable images. Even if I need to make some adjustment I think I got it. I'm using the flash in full manual mode mounted on a small tripod. I also have put together a spread sheet to do all the math for me. I understand that this might not be ideal to work on the field but I have to do with what I have . Using a flash meter might not be a solution as it might not work in such a close range (mine doesn't at least).

For taking the camera portraits I used recently a DIY light tent. In this case I've used the flash on camera, head slightly tilt upwards to make the light bounce on the ceiling of the tent. The lens was a regular 100mm. I overexposed 1 stop (I opened up the iris respect to the flash auto setting)
to get better detail. http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-family-t26620.html

Cheers, M.-

[mo]

Thanks to all who gave advice.A lot more involved than I thought but a start has been made.
By a bracket do you mean the hand held L shaped bracket that can screw on the bottom of the camera and would hold the flash to the side of the camera?

This looks like the starting point for me

[Orio]

A budget-wise alternative to flashes is to use portable continuous lights, you don't need powerful/expensive ones if the subject is small, cheap lamps can do, but if you are on film and can't adjust temperature, make sure you put a tungsten filter on the lens - although they tell me that small daylight colored lamps are also available.

[mo]

Thanks Orio useful tip

[peterqd]

The macro pics taken with an LED ring flash in this thread look well lit. I looked on Ebay, they are about £32.

[mo]

[marty]

[PaulC]

The "strobist blogspot" is the ultimate resource for information about using flash.

You probably want to get the flash close over the end of the lens with a diffuser on it (opaque plastic milkbottles can be quite good if they can be chopped up to go over the flash) and you want a reflector very close to your subject on the other side from the flash.

I've used a flash bracket turned sideways under the camera to bring the flash closer to the end of the lens. It worked reasonably well.

Ring flash gives flat lighting which a lot of people don't like. Twin flashes are an alternative that allow a variation in the intensity of light from different sides but the flash you already have would probably work well, too if you arrange it right.

[mo]

Thanks Paul...I have plenty of plastic milk bottles to play with.The flash above can swivel sideways.Anyway I will get the film developed and see how it turned out ...maybe post results Then I can work off the suggestions here in this thread.

[RenseH]

For macro shooting I use a very cheap home made diffuser that can be used in combination with the on board flash. Here's a photo:



It's a cardboard tube that has alu foil on the inside. At the end - a bit difficult to see - I used some wrapping foil - not the bubble one - people use for sending lenses on the mail. It works terrific. The one in the pic is a bit short, it was made for my Takumar 50/4, not for this Vivitar, but it still works. In the Digital MF board I have some pics right now, made with this combi.

If people would have a tutorial how to make it, I could save some time to make one. It's not hard however, probably half an hour work....

[Esox lucius]

Using only one flash? Put it on a cable, buy a 40 EUR/USD lightbox and diffuse/distribute the flash through the lightbox. Makes for evenly lit subjects without too shiny parts.

Another alternative is do it yourself

http://thadallender.com/wp-content/uploads/lightbox.jpg

[torbod]

Cool gizmo RenseH.
As you know, I've seen some insects you've shot and it is really awesome to get the results from such a simple device.

If you have the time, please make a quick how-to description.


/T

[Anu]

[RenseH]

[torbod]

Thats great.

I just made a quick and dirty test with a normal drinking glass wrapped in foil and a diffusive paper in one end, and it worked quite nice. Although I had to hold it with one hand. But the method seems like something I have been waiting for a long time.

I could do this with CZJ 35 2.4 after a few test shots to adjust the exposure, very simple indeed (Yes I know, I had to shoot boring domestic things)
Dotted landing strip:


Fuzzy green:

[Anu]

Very nice tomatoes - I've always failed in food photography (maybe I eat the food too fast, I don't know), so pictures like this make me envious.

[RenseH]

[Nelson]

I will soon try to do something like that
http://www.naturepixel.com/canon_100macro_mt24ex_580ex_diffuseur_stofen_omni-bounce.htm

[mo]

So much more to this than I first thought...so many approaches, thankfully the solutions cover all budgets

[RenseH]

On my blog, I've made a description of how I made a new flash diffuser. The link:http://renseblog.stellaria.nl/#post42. Hope it will help you!