I want to go for Film - Help needed.

[tobbsman]

Hi everybody ...

After exploring for two years the digital camera world, I feel ready to take a "real" camera

I would be greatful for your help !

what I would like to have:

(1) mostly I shoot landscapes
- which camera is suitabel for me?
- which (different) film (rolls ?) I have to buy?

(2) I want to be able to use my current lens collection (I don't want to go for medium format at the moment):

- manual PK and M42 lenses
- is there a suitabe PK camera which also supports the
PK-A lenses (half-automatics)

(3) I also want to dive into the B&W world, which film types are good for beginning.

(4) do I need a lightroom and chemicals and paper? which ?

Thanks in advance !

Cheers
Tobias

[Arkku]

[zewrak]

Im using Fomapan 100/400 and for 120 film I use Efke 50. Excellent films considering the price I think.

The Fomapan 100/400 cost me 17€ for 10 rolls. Compared to Kodak or Ilford films that cost me 40€. And they are plenty good for that price.

At the start Id rather spend 40€ for 20 films to practice development etc then 10. Simple as that.

There are alot of PK-A cameras. The MZ series for example from Pentax. That are deadcheap.

[Spotmatic]

There are plenty of options in the 35mm format, but if you want to explore medium format then the Pentax 6x7 is the ultimate landscape shooter's camera IMHO!

[marty]

Arkku made a good summary. I just wanted to add to equipment list a good pair of scissors and a bottle opener (the type for crown caps) or a film retriever to get the film out of its canister. I advice also a thermometer since you need to be consistent in processing in order to get consistent results. Regarding film brand and type just pick up one to begin with (100 asa is generally suitable for landscape) along with one type of developer and stick with them until you're completely accustomed with the process.
(Let's say FP4+ and ID-11/D76). At some point you may feel the necessity to experiment something different and that'll be the moment for eventually move to other combinations.
Regards, Marty.

[zewrak]

R09 or Rodinal is also economical and easy to handle.

[Seele]

Tobias,

Let me throw in my two cents' worth.

Like the other correspondents I think you should get a camera with K-mount to make the most out of your prior investments in lenses; certainly a camera with M42 mount can take some of your lenses, but it would not be able to take your K-mount lenses.

It makes me wonder why you would need a camera that takes advantage of the PK-A coupling; it would only allow the exposure automation set the aperture, such as Program mode, but if you are using the M42 lenses via an adapter, you will lose it anyway, and besides, the camera would be battery dependent.

If you want to go that route, the Pentax Super A would be a fair choice; take your time to buy selectively to get a good one at a sensible price.

But if you are doing landscape mostly, I think you can live with a fully mechanical, manual camera quite happily. The Pentax K1000 is of course the choice everyone would recommend, its reputation precedes itself to the point that the higher spec versions, the KX and KM, became under-valued. As usual, take your time and shop around for a nice example.

In that sense, other fully mechanical K-mount cameras might also be a valid choice too: the Ricoh XR-1, KR-5 (including the Ricoh-built originals and the Cosina-built "compact" versions) and lots of other Cosina-built models are quite inexpensive and relatively plentiful.

If you want to get into B/W, my thought is to start with a general purpose film which you can obtain easily at sensible price, and use a developer which is of the "one shot" type, such as Rodinal/R08 for consistancy. Stick to one film, one developer, one processing method, until you know the characteristics like the back of your hand, then you can start experimenting, changing one variable at a time.

It would definitely be helpful if you have a darkroom, or access to one, but if you are just going to process the films, a daylight tank and a changing bag would be quite sufficient, and most of the utensils can be improvised cheaply. Just make sure you invest in a decent quality thermometer, and look after it well; use it all the time to ensure consistancy.

Hope this is of some help.

[ryan s]

Tag Tobias,

For the camera, the Pentax Super-A/Program Plus feature A lens support, since they were the first cameras to offer it. With an M42 adapter, you will lose auto stopdown. It still seems that the older cameras do better with M42 stopdown than the new models.

Although, the K and M series are great manual cameras and their secret is the little lever just inside the lens mount that rotates when you move the aperture ring on the lens. There is something about it which makes the cameras meter great...nothing we have experienced on a Pentax digital body, unfortunately.

In the end, you don't "need" A lens control if you don't mind moving the aperture ring yourself. Your A lenses will still control the little ring inside K and M series cameras. Vintage cameras are just a light tight box...some with more features than others. I personally really enjoy the viewfinder and firm controls of the Pentax MX

Grüsse,
Ryan

PS: The good part about film is that you can use...anything! I would agree to start with Foma for B&W

[themoleman342]

For B&W I would truly recommend starting with a Kodak Tri-X or T-Max. They are probably the most forgiving and versatile films available and are still the standard for most photo classes. Are there finer grain films? Yes. Are there ones that capture shadow detail better? Yes. Are there ones that have a greater range of tone? Yes. But until you decide what is important to you, I believe Tri-X and T-max perform strongly in all these areas. Also, and this is the big one, there is TONS of information on them for a beginner. Unless your shooting an incredible amount of film, a dollar extra a roll isn't much.

[kuuan]

If you want a Pentax K mount camera to use A lenses on I'd recommend a ME Super, widely available for cheap, great viewfinder, A and M mode.

[Attila]

For landscapes essential to shoot on slides bigger format surely better than 35mm. Many old folders and TLRs provide superb image quality on large size on acceptable or low price. First step I think look around who will develop your slides at your area. Good local lab is essential, you will not shoot a lot on film so self development not economical.

For landscape photography don't need arsenal of lenses so a fixed lens medium camera like Yashica MAT 124G or Bessa RF 6x9 folder more than enough. They cost is not too high especially if compare easier to scan them and provide far better quality than most 35mm format.

For landscapes select Velvia 50 or Provia 100 if you wold save on film costs , try to get expired films from trusted sources and put them into freezer. A cold stored film after expiration date works well for years.

Buy a sturdy tripod if you don't have any yet. At low ISO like 50 ISO a good tripod is a must have equipment. Shoot always at least at F8 or slower aperture.

Buy any PK body + a PK-M42 adapter for your gears I am very happy with internal light meters they are perform well even with slides.

I have a Pentax MX body + M42 adapter very nice trustworthy camera , but I think any Chinon just same good.

[Seele]

themoleman342,

I agree with you that Tri-X can be forgiving, but I beg to differ regarding T-max.

I must admit being a bit of a dinosaur, but my recommendation would be more like a film of ISO 100˚ or 125˚, for the extra headroom. Say, under bright sunshine, with an ISO 400˚ film, you're pretty much stuck with big depth of field and fast shutter speed, without much leeway.

[themoleman342]

[Arkku]

[visualopsins]

[Attila]

[peterqd]

Tobias, I have to put in a word for the Pentax K2, the top of the line of the K-range cameras. It's fairly rare because it only had a short production run before the M-range was introduced, but it really is worth considering. Unlike any of the other K and M-range cameras (apart from the expensive LX) it has mirror lock-up and a DOF preview button, plus it has better metering and an electronic vertical-run metal shutter, as on later cameras. It takes two common SR44 batteries and the shutter will still fire at 1/1000, X (1/125) and B if they run down. Best of all, it's the most solid and clicky camera I've ever used. There is also the K2 DMD with data back and motor drive linkage but it's even rarer.

One word of warning about the K1000 if you're considering that - production of these continued right up to 1997, the later ones being assembled in China. These had a number of plastic body parts, including the top cover, which are prone to breakage.

[tobbsman]

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for this fast and detailed commenting!!!!

I will need to read and think through all this information which will need also some time, so I will be back for commenting in a while ...

Cheers
Tobbs

[spiralcity]

Any comment to your inquisition are based on pure preference.

You will find many different preferences.

Let me offer another.

Chinon CE-4s. This is a PK mount and built like a tank. You will find that this camera will hanndle almost all of your shooting needs.



I agree with Atilla on the 50 ISO Velvia for landscape shots. This film can't be beat...

Can we still find it?

[cooltouch]

Tobbsman,

If you're city has a decent selection of used book stores, if I were in your position, I would look through their photography sections. You should be able to find books that answer many questions with regards to darkroom technique, as well as general photo technique. And since these are older books, chances are that they will all be teaching the skills from a film perspective.

You've received very useful advice from the folks here, but it is always nice to have a reference library, I have found.

Regarding favorite Pentax cameras -- the K2 is not the only K-series Pentax with MLU. The KX has MLU, plus match needle metering to boot. It is my personal favorite K-series Pentax. Like the K2, the KX also came in a motor-drive version.

Best,
Michael