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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: "There is some interior haze"? |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
"The glass is clean and clear with no scratches, fungus or haze. There is some interior haze."
Is this a problem? I haven't seen a haze before What is the effect of it? _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
I tend to translate ebay descriptions like that as "I cleaned the dirt off the outside with some toilet paper, but the inner surfaces are a mess".
Sevo |
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
Sevo wrote: |
I tend to translate ebay descriptions like that as "I cleaned the dirt off the outside with some toilet paper, but the inner surfaces are a mess".
Sevo |
_________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
You sometimes find lenses that have some internal elements which are neither scratched nor infected by fungus but still are not as transparent as a clean glass. There seems to be some kind of veil, some light fog on these elements. This "haze" can be caused by tiny drops of humidity due to internal condensation or by fumes of glue that has been used or by another reason.
Sometimes this haze does not have any considerable effect (like with my Nikkor-Q.C 3.5/135), sometimes it lowers contrast and impairs effective lens speed (like with my Spiratone).
In many cases this haze is not getting worse. I just had my (hazy) Nikkor-Q.C 3.5/135 checked by a pro and he told me not to worry and to do nothing but using this lens. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
if center part covered with haze fully result will be very contrast less. Some haze is not a problem. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Long time ago.... girlfriend (not anymore ) left new zoomlens for my rikoh kr super on the car dashboard for 5 hours in the sun
when i removed it from the dashboard i couldnt touch it from the temperature and had to use a cloth
The next day on the camera it was totally hazed up i could not even see anything but white haze
i think the grease in the alluminium outside parts of the lens housing boiled off in the heat and then condensed on the slightly cooler glas parts of the lens....evenyually got new one....no not zoom ...girlfriend |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Rusty wrote: |
Long time ago.... girlfriend (not anymore ) left new zoomlens for my rikoh kr super on the car dashboard for 5 hours in the sun
when i removed it from the dashboard i couldnt touch it from the temperature and had to use a cloth
The next day on the camera it was totally hazed up i could not even see anything but white haze
i think the grease in the alluminium outside parts of the lens housing boiled off in the heat and then condensed on the slightly cooler glas parts of the lens....evenyually got new one....no not zoom ...girlfriend |
Yes, possible reason to get haze. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
Hmm, it is a big risk for a min 200usd lens so I will look for a clean one. _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
yalcinaydin wrote: |
Hmm, it is a big risk for a min 200usd lens so I will look for a clean one. |
Yes, worst than scratch . I take lens with haze only if lens is rare. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:04 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
But perhaps haze is cleanable. Scratch is not repairable (unless you replace the glass). _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:34 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
yalcinaydin wrote: |
Hmm, it is a big risk for a min 200usd lens so I will look for a clean one. |
Yes, indeed. I would accept some haze in a cheap lens, but not in an expensive one. (Unless you can get a $2000,- lens for $200,- ) _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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SkedAddled
Joined: 19 Oct 2008 Posts: 1443 Location: Michigan, USA
Expire: 2021-08-12
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:16 am Post subject: |
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SkedAddled wrote:
This is an interesting topic, and one that begs to be asked by a newbie:
What is the haze from, usually?
Is it something on the outer surfaces of the glass, or is it typically
a heat or chemical reaction to the cement used to bond glass elements
together?
I ask this because I would like to open up lenses for cleaning,
if I should find really great bargains on lenses that need some attention. _________________ Craig
Of course I'm all right! Why? What have you heard!?
Canon Digital EOS 5D Mk IV, EOS 50D, Powershot S3 iS
Vivitar 28 f/2.8 OM - Zuiko 50 f/1.8 OM - Tamron SP 28-80 f/3.5 AD2[Favorite!] - Hanimar 135 f/3.5 M42 - Soligor 135 f/2.8 T4 - Tamron SP 60-300 f/3.8 AD2 - Soligor 75-260 f/4.5 M42 - Soligor 400 f/6.3 T4 - Soligor 500 f/8 T2 Cat + Matched 2X TC - Addiction Growing!
This is us -- We drive these -- We're named these |
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:40 am Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
"A fast one... so don't let it get away. WOW F2.8 straight through this zoom lens. The glass is clean and clear with no scratches, fungus or haze. There is some interior haze. Includes the hood and a Nikon AI-S adapter, but you can use any one you have for your body. In the case."
This rating system and description is really confusing. They say that they can send to APO address so it was a chance of avoiding customs Now, I will wait for another hooded Tamron SP 80-200/2.8.
Condition: E
Quote: |
Please Use the Following Scale & Guidelines:
* N) New (Brand new)
All original packaging and manuals included.
* D) Demo (Like New) 98-100% of original condition
Like New with little or no signs of use.
* E+) Excellent Plus 96-97% of original condition
May have slight wear but only visible under close up inspection.
* E) Excellent 90-95% of original condition
Lens Glass very clean - cosmetically may show slight wear and/or signs of use.
* E-) Excellent Minus 85-89% of original condition
Shows signs of moderate use - Lens Glass is perfect but may have some dust which will not affect picture quality.
* V) Very Good 75-84% of original condition
Appears well used and may include dings, brassing, scrapes and bruises but is in fully functional condition. Glass may have marks or haze that should not affect picture quality.
* G) Good 50-74% of original condition
Appears to have been used very heavily with multiple dings, scrapes, scratches and heavy brassing. Glass may have fungus, excessive dust and/or scratches that can affect picture quality.
* F) Fair Item works with certain malfunctions. Read comments for exact malfunction details.
* X) For parts only. |
_________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:05 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
SkedAddled wrote: |
This is an interesting topic, and one that begs to be asked by a newbie:
What is the haze from, usually?
Is it something on the outer surfaces of the glass, or is it typically
a heat or chemical reaction to the cement used to bond glass elements
together?
I ask this because I would like to open up lenses for cleaning,
if I should find really great bargains on lenses that need some attention. |
As mentioned previously, it seems to come mainly from evaporated grease within the lens.
Some haze is easy to clean if you can get inside to the right lens element.
However, I'd say a high proportion of haze is difficult to clean. This seems to be particularly true for low dispersion lens elements(LD, SD, etc). (You can usually tell which ones these are because the seem to look "white" on the SIDES of the element, while regular glass seesm to be darker)
I've found quite a few that I've been unable to clean with any solvent I've used. Includes Ronsonol, acetone, paint thinner, etc.
Common lenses are Sigma 70-300mm APO, Tokina 35-200mm AT-X SD.
I've also found one that has haze between cemented elements. (Tokina 80-200mm AT-X SD)
There was also a Konica Hexanon 135mm F3.5, with a thick coating of melted grease on some lens elements, that had haze I couldn't remove. |
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hk300
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:28 am Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
dnas wrote: |
I've also found one that has haze between cemented elements. (Tokina 80-200mm AT-X SD)
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one of our members repaired the hazing for a 80-200 (see the below thread)
http://forum.mflenses.com/repairing-cemented-lenses-t13595.html _________________ No longer member , please don't try to contact to him |
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:03 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
That's a very good repair, isn't it??!!!! |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Twenty years ago - or so - I had a tele tessar 4/135 for Rollei with haze internal between the first and the second elements.
I cleaned it in several times, but the haze became again and again.
I didn't know (nor now) why it ocurred.
The repairman told me that don't matter to me, "use the lens" - he said
I sold it WITH HAZE.
The haze isn't a good experience to me. Never will buy a lens with haze again
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
Twenty years ago - or so - I had a tele tessar 4/135 for Rollei with haze internal between the first and the second elements.
I cleaned it in several times, but the haze became again and again.
I didn't know (nor now) why it ocurred.
The repairman told me that don't matter to me, "use the lens" - he said
I sold it WITH HAZE.
The haze isn't a good experience to me. Never will buy a lens with haze again
Rino. |
It seems that some grease on the focusing threads can evaporate and settle on the internal elements. Just a case of the wrong type of grease used in that lens? _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
I don't know. But I will not repeat the experience.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
The quality and performance of a camera lens or any other type is proportionate to the quality of the lenses used in its construction. Lenses by definition are clear, their job is to transmit light (making an image) in the most efficient way that can be devised.
I have never seen a hazy lens that can produce good results, ANY type of haze on a lens will degrade the performance.
Whether the proportion of degradation is acceptable to you is a different question. The question of it being remedied is always a risk unless it is a very simple lens.
The bottom lime is unless the lens is dirt cheap or only wanted for show or to play with give it a wide berth.
Never buy a lens without shining a bright light through it (A small torch) if it isn’t clear don’t expect clear pictures. _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Haze is worst case in lens problems as Rob said it impact picture quality at covered parts. Some of them cleanable , because just dust some of them un-cleanable with simple methods. I buy lenses with haze if lens is rare and I can't take other one. I also buy lenses with haze if cover the edges only, because on my 2x crop DSLR not impact anything. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
This might be generally true, but as I said, I get great results from my Nikkor 3.5/135 that has some haze inside.
And a pro told me not to bother, because any attempt to repair could make it worse than having slight haze if not done professionally.
It will lower contrast a little, yes, but that's all. This is what he said and what I can confirm from my experiences. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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ryan s
Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 384 Location: Madison, WI
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:16 am Post subject: |
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ryan s wrote:
I received a Pentax M 50/1,7 on a trade today...it seems like it might have haze near the front
There are what look like very small speckles covering the whole element. I could not see this until I started looking for internal issues. Tomorrow, I'll try to get a pic OF the lens and WITH the lens... _________________ Pentax Bodies: K10D + D-BG2 | MX |
M: Zenitar 16/2.8 | 28/2.8 | 50/1.7 | M39: Mir-1 GP 37/2.8 M42: Vivitar 28/2.5 AD2: Tamron SP Macro 90/2.5 |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
This might be generally true, but as I said, I get great results from my Nikkor 3.5/135 that has some haze inside.
And a pro told me not to bother, because any attempt to repair could make it worse than having slight haze if not done professionally.
It will lower contrast a little, yes, but that's all. This is what he said and what I can confirm from my experiences. |
I read in an old shutterbug (c 1988 ) that a professional (in events eg. marriages, birthday if I'm not wrong) that used a hasselblad with one lens with fungus (yes, not haze, but "problematic lens" too).
He said that used a tele 150 mm with scratches front element too.
Did he sell used lenses?
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
If I need to sell my lenses I also keep with fungus and scratches, because most of them not impact anything and re-sell value is low. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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