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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:42 am Post subject: Take care when cleaning lens from fungus |
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Orio wrote:
I have learned from experience that mixing chemicals to clean from fungus can be a dangerous operation.
In particular, to mix bleaches and ammonia is very dangerous. I recommend not to do this, because it can cause death to you and the persons near you, and to use different chemicals, but if you really want to use that, do it at your own risk, and remember to take all the necessary precautions, like:
- do the cleaning in the open air
- in cool air temperature
- mix only the strictly needed amount to clean a lens and not more
- wear a humid cloth in front of your mouth, sealing eyeglasses, and thick glovers
- make sure that no children and no animals can have access to the place you are doing the cleaning operation.
Remember that mixing bleaches and ammonia produces a deadly gas, and that mixing large quantities can cause an explosion, especially when air temperature is high. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
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hk300
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
would the easier to get household mold cleaner also work?
It is Chloride based. |
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dnas
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
I use distilled white vinegar. Not dangerous, works very nicely. Clean afterward with distilled water, and lens tissue. |
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indianadinos
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:10 am Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...
Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink ) ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
indianadinos wrote: |
I was using a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde, which worked well for killing the fungus, but smelled bad and required "open window" operations ...
Now, i use Avene Cold Cream and Zippo fluid, which require a bit more time (about an hour) for cleaning, but works like a charm (and doesn't stink ) ... |
I think problem with "weak" material they are not kill fungus 100%. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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estudleon
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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estudleon
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Attila wrote: |
estudleon wrote: |
Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. |
Wow !!
Thanks Attila for sharing your experience. Very usefull.
No, no vinegar. Thanks again.
Regards, Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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visualopsins
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10934 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Sorry to say first dust spec is home to new fungus. After thorough cleaning only remedy is to prevent new growth with low-humidity storage.
Mold and fungus may be most abundant life form on Earth. Hope buddies never hear about these "murders" ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
siriusdogstar wrote: |
low-humidity storage. |
Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.
One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100% _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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dnas
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:13 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
Attila wrote: |
estudleon wrote: |
Why not white vinegar?
Does not good the job? |
Fungus is very strong creature it can survive almost everything and grow again if their is humid, dark environment. I saw fungus in Nuclear Power Plant at dark , humid places in intensive radioactive environment. I don't know vinegar does only current clean only or give a resistance for surface for long term. Strong chemical make it's protein to liquid stage no chance to survive. |
Attila wrote: |
siriusdogstar wrote: |
low-humidity storage. |
Most important thing from all that is right. I did made 3 yrs long test.
One lens was always on my desk collect dust, licking my bird and most of them times stay around 60 % humidity. There was plenty of light and never get any fungus even if was covered with some times food , seats (throw by bird onto). Some lenses was stored right on low humidity and get fungus so now universal receipt, but if you store right change is pretty high to prevent from fungus but not 100% |
So Attila, what you're saying is that whether you clean fungus with strong chemicals or white vinegar, if it is THEN stored in low humidity, they should work equaly well!!!! ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
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larsr
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 272 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:58 am Post subject: |
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larsr wrote:
Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? _________________ Lars
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D200
SLR: Nikon FA, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35TM
35mm: Voigtl�nder Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AIS, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Vivitar 28/2.5, Chinon 28/2.8, Cosina Auto Cosinon 50/1.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Mamiya 50/2, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Vivitar 135/2.8, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: Carl Zeiss (Ikon) Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Pentacon 50/1.8 MC Electric, Meyer G�rlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer G�rlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
Wantlist
Nikkor 105/1.8, Nikkor 135/2
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dnas
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:40 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
larsr wrote: |
Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? |
Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.
I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months. |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
dnas wrote: |
larsr wrote: |
Also, the dangers with using powerful chemicals and solvents is not only the "resurrection" of the fungus, but danger of wearing out possible coating in the glass. I'm not sure the coatings would respond any better to vinegar since, which, as far as I know, is alkaline in quality? |
Vinegar is slightly acidic, which is what kills the fungus. And it doesn't harm the coatings.
I think I might do a test. Clean PART of the lens with vinegar, then leave it in the bathroom for a few months. |
Good idea ! Thanks! Keep one in dark, keep one without caps and let we see. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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dnas
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:50 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
Or what I was thinking about, was getting a lens with reasonably uniform fungus, and clean one half of the lens element with vinegar and leave the other half with fungus!!! Take photos. Then leave it in the bathroom lens caps on.
Then do the same with another lens, same, but with lens caps off.
Repeat same for a dry, bright location!!!!
Leave for a few months.
This way we KNOW the lenses have fungus, but we can see if it returns to the vinegar cleaned surfaces or not. And also if the moisture and light make any difference. |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
dnas wrote: |
Or what I was thinking about, was getting a lens with reasonably uniform fungus, and clean one half of the lens element with vinegar and leave the other half with fungus!!! Take photos. Then leave it in the bathroom lens caps on.
Then do the same with another lens, same, but with lens caps off.
Repeat same for a dry, bright location!!!!
Leave for a few months.
This way we KNOW the lenses have fungus, but we can see if it returns to the vinegar cleaned surfaces or not. And also if the moisture and light make any difference. |
Sound very good , try it please! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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FD101
Joined: 21 Mar 2009 Posts: 5
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:17 am Post subject: Cleaning lenses of fungus |
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FD101 wrote:
In my limited experience of cleaning lenses, the fungus is very easy to wipe off using 'Windex' glass cleaner followed by lots of deionised water and a final wipe with lighter fluid. However, depending on the lens coating some marks will remain. Pentax and Canon coatings are hard and resist fungal attack but Konica coatings, and I suspect Minolta too, are softer and more susceptible to fungal damage.
The best way to prevent re-infestation is to also clean the retainer and spacer rings holding the lens in place. Generally the fungus gets into the lens from external moisture and dirt.
I'm very skeptical of the 'Ponds Cold Creme' treatment! It is possible that oils present in the creme have a refractive index similar to the lens coating and merely disguise the etching marks left by the fungal attack. _________________ Repair AND use |
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mikkokam
Joined: 11 Aug 2009 Posts: 29 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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mikkokam wrote:
Have a lens, where (on the outer edges of the front element), there appears to be something that might be fungus. Otherwise the lens is excellent; diaphragm working nicely, lenses scratch-free, mechanically mint. Optically a good sample, test shots came out sharp. Two questions for people with experience -
If I keep the lens in dry place and use it, could it be that the fungus does not grow?
What do you think - should I return the lens?
(edit; was very easy to clean - detach the front element carefully and clean the inside - like new)
Last edited by mikkokam on Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:13 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
KEEP IT! Fungus will never growing in if you keep it below 50% of humidity and lens get some light. Don't store with caps. If growing and impact picture quality perhaps 30 yrs later it will be easy to clean it. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Olivier
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5078 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Attila,
would you advice to always store lenses without caps to avoid fungus ? _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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dnas
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:17 pm Post subject: Re: Cleaning lenses of fungus |
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dnas wrote:
FD101 wrote: |
In my limited experience of cleaning lenses, the fungus is very easy to wipe off using 'Windex' glass cleaner followed by lots of deionised water and a final wipe with lighter fluid. However, depending on the lens coating some marks will remain. Pentax and Canon coatings are hard and resist fungal attack but Konica coatings, and I suspect Minolta too, are softer and more susceptible to fungal damage.
The best way to prevent re-infestation is to also clean the retainer and spacer rings holding the lens in place. Generally the fungus gets into the lens from external moisture and dirt.
I'm very skeptical of the 'Ponds Cold Creme' treatment! It is possible that oils present in the creme have a refractive index similar to the lens coating and merely disguise the etching marks left by the fungal attack. |
I've cleaned all sorts of different lenses, and I don't see much difference in "resistance to fungal attack". I do see differences in the distribution of the fungus though.
For example, Nikon & Olympus (and to a lesser extent Minolta MC/MD) lenses seem to be more likely to get some trendrils along with a large concentrated fungal point. In these cases, the concentrated fungal point will almost ALWAYS damage the Nikon coating and sometimes the glass. In the case of Olympus, it is often the case that concentrated fungal point can be removed without any coating damage. Minolta is in between.
Canon(FD), Minolta (MC/MD & AF), Pentax (M42 & K), Tokina often have a wide spread of very thin tendrils. Canon FD seems to be quite resistant to coat damage, but these often have MANY tendrils, and are often difficult to dismantle. Pentax suffers a little coating damage, which often produces a slight reflective discoloration, as does Tokina. Minolta is similar in this respect, but the later series of Minolta MD lenses and most of the Minolta AF lenses have sealed lens groups which often get fungus between them. These are impossible to clean.
I cannot recall getting a Konica len with Fungus. However, it's very common for Konica zoom lenses to get thick haze in some of the rear elements, which is often impossible to remove. This is also a common problem with Sigma 70-300m zooms. |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Olivier wrote: |
Attila,
would you advice to always store lenses without caps to avoid fungus ? |
yes. light biggest enemy to fungus, cheap UV filter can protect front lens from dust. rare is harder part. I keep my lenses in big plastic boxes light can come throw on them it's protect them from dusts. Also I put humidity remover chemical to inside so I keep them always below 50% mostly around 40 % of humidity. I have a dedicated box for lenses with fungus, oldest one in box 3-4 yrs old none of them have stronger fungus now. even if some fungus farm also there. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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mikkokam
Joined: 11 Aug 2009 Posts: 29 Location: Finland
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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mikkokam wrote:
Attila: great idea about the transparent boxes!
Currently, I have all my lenses in an aluminium suitcase - maybe I should invest in a transparent box for them and leave them where the sun shines in? The wife won't probably like that idea - have to find a place that is not so visible in everyday life.
The humidity in our house now (heating is on) is below 25% according to a cheap meter...
Filters: I read somewhere that UV-light could help keep the fungus away - so maybe one should use a non-UV-filter in front of such a lens?
Caps: it would be great to have TRANSPARENT caps. This could be an innovation to manufacture in China and sell at ebay... ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ Latest pictures: http://www.flickr.com/mikkokam
Camera bodies: Leica M4-2 • Zenit-11 • Panasonic GF1
Lenses: Vivitar 17/3.5 • Pentax Cosmicar 25/1.4 • Vivitar Series 1 28/1.9 • Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35/2.4 • Voigtländer Nokton 40/1.4 • Yashinon DS-M 50/1.4 • Helios 44-3 MC 58/2 • Helios 44M-4 58/2 • Helios 40-2 85/1.5 • Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135/3.5 • Jupiter-37A 135/3.5 • DIY toy lenses 170/2.8 & 85/1.4 • DIY soft focus 50/1.8 • DIY tilt-shift lenses 75/3.5 & 75/4.5
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visualopsins
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10934 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I like the clear box idea and really really like the clear lens caps idea!
Careful box in sunlight does not overheat inside.
Careful clear lens caps does not allow focus sunlight through lens to light house or woods on fire.
With colder more humid days here now I am thinking how important to protect camera items from humidity before bringing indoors; thinking when moisture from air condense inside cold lens it is a lot and that condensed moisture has much more difficult evaporation path to navigate out, meanwhile once warm it activates fungi spores to grow some before it does eventually evaporate. I can easily imagine a lens continually brought inside from the cold without protection would fungus even though stored in drybox, because of trapped moisture.
I put camera & lens in plastic baggie outside, then bring inside and wait an hour until camera & lens are room temperature before opening. If I am sometime inside air conditioning cool I hope to remember to bag my stuff before go into hot outdoors.
"Bag & Seal Before Cold Into Warm!" may be most important fungus prevention advise, no? ![Surprised](images/smiles/icon_surprised.gif) _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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a20010494
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 15 Feb 2010 Posts: 396 Location: Perú.
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Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:11 am Post subject: |
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a20010494 wrote:
Quoted from pentaxforums:
If you can get the on your camera, they're great: any fungus they harbour is easily cleaned up with some clotrimazole cream.
True? _________________ www.estudiocaleidoscopio.com |
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