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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Paul, after Bibble, ran it through PS, check levels, autocolor, if needed, also
shadows/highlights adjustment. I applied a small amount of NR to the sky.
It looks like whoever you're taking your film to have processed, isn't doing
your good work any favors. I'm seeing colors bleed from the buildings/flag
into the sky, artifacts from what might be dirty rollers and tired chems. Was
this done in Doha? Was there only briefly but a good sized town, beautiful,
like all the rest I've seen on the Gulf, and should be several places to get
this done. (?!)
This is from an expired roll of Portra 800 that Jussi sent me using the lowly
Yashica-A with the Yashicor triplet lens that Peter (peterqd) kicked sand on:
Unlike your pics, not particularly interesting, but liked how that green moss was lit up, and of course the camera is not in the same club as
your Pentacon, but an adequate job on the film processing. Scanned at 1200dpi, everything off. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Paul, I have the V700 and I've torn my hair out trying to optimise the settings in the scanner software. I now do a basic scan leaving all settings alone and do all the adjustments in PS. I curse about the blue lamp in the scanner lid. I believe the lamp in your scanner is an LED, so it might have a different temperature, but is it blue too? I used to think it was the film type having a bluish cast but slides project perfectly, so I'm now blaming the lamp. The way I deal with the blue cast is to use the middle colour dropper in Curves to select a neutral grey patch. The paving stones in your pics are ideal.
About the blue blotches in the dark areas, you mentioned you suspected the contrast settings. I agree with Marty, I'm sure you've pinpointed it there. Forget about adjusting the contrast (or anything else) in the scan preview. In Levels, I adjust the end sliders and then use the centre slider to adjust the gamma. The contrast adjustment is a little violent for me but a gentle tweak in Curves is usually all that's needed if contrast is still a little flat. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 6:18 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Thanks, guys. Thanks especially for that info Katastrofo. I've never had any involvement with professionally processed film so I don't know what to look for. It's a real bummer to hear that the lab is screwing up the basic work, though the fact that I have a complete set of fingerprints from the entire staff there was a bit of a hint in that direction. Unfortunately, there aren't any pro studios here that I know of shooting film, so the only processing facilities are high-street minilabs. I did ask Qatar Photographic Society, but apparently when they moved their premises a couple of years back they didn't bother installing a darkroom because serious photographers all use digital now (less than five years ago their annual competition banned digital captures - unfortunately, the traditionalist who led the society, Sheikh Mohammed, stole $200,000,000 from the Emir which caused him to fall out of favour and lose all his posts).
So, it's Peak Imaging or DIY, I guess. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10966 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 1:02 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Ah ha! Good to hear those spots are on the neg, that the V500 scanned what was there, rather than scanner noise. A look at the neg through a low power microscope would've revealed that. Edmund Optics has an excellent low-cost shirt-pocket microscope, available in 25x or 50x versions for $18 or $19 (US) respectively. Stock numbers R31-853 and R34-609. |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:05 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Actually, I think it is rather the reverse. That the excessive tonal range has caused scanner artifacts to appear. The development problem is apparent in the sky and elsewhere, though better development might have given a more usable neg (PS: I have checked the neg under magnification and I can't see any blotches in the shadow areas). _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 4:45 am Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
I copied and blew it up a bit and it looks like chroma noise to me.
Possible canning artifact.
You might consider having the neg scanned with different scanners, different software etc.
Jules |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10966 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
link to MF Imacon Flextight scan with similar 'noise' _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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John Poirier
Joined: 24 Aug 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Gabriola Island, British Columbia
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Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: scanning advice |
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John Poirier wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong with the Epson V500 to get these blotchy dark areas:
That's a 100% crop at 72dpi from a 2400lpi scan. The neg obviously has grain, not chromatic noise, so I'm not sure how it is getting in there or even if it is an inevitable product of the technology. If so, would a drum scanner also produce this sort of thing? Surely not. |
Some good suggestions from others so far. Here is one more:
You may have some grain aliasing happening. Try scanning at 4800ppi. (A fairly low probability, but can't hurt to try.)
John |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: scanning advice |
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mo wrote:
John Poirier wrote: |
PaulC wrote: |
Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong with the Epson V500 to get these blotchy dark areas:
That's a 100% crop at 72dpi from a 2400lpi scan. The neg obviously has grain, not chromatic noise, so I'm not sure how it is getting in there or even if it is an inevitable product of the technology. If so, would a drum scanner also produce this sort of thing? Surely not. |
Some good suggestions from others so far. Here is one more:
You may have some grain aliasing happening. Try scanning at 4800ppi. (A fairly low probability, but can't hurt to try.)
John |
Welcome John,your first post can not contain images/links It's an anti spam measure You will have no more problems now. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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John Poirier
Joined: 24 Aug 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Gabriola Island, British Columbia
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Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:50 pm Post subject: Re: scanning advice |
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John Poirier wrote:
mo wrote: |
Welcome John,your first post can not contain images/links It's an anti spam measure You will have no more problems now. |
Thanks, mo |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject: Re: scanning advice |
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Orio wrote:
John Poirier wrote: |
You may have some grain aliasing happening. |
It looks like that to me, also. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
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Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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