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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:59 am Post subject: Question about film |
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adent wrote:
I have recently acquired a Spotmatic SP. I have so far run two rolls of film through it and have not been impressed. When I was a teenager I had a cheap plastic 110 camera and still have some of the pic I took with it in albums. They look better than what I am currently getting from my Spotmatic. The pics just look flat. I have tried several different lenses that perform great on my eos. I was just wondering if the fact that I have been using generic drug store brand film could be the culprit. Either that or I just don't know how to use film. Please be gentle with responses I have been out of film for years.
Here are a couple of samples these are some of the better ones.
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Mos6502
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 960 Location: Austin
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:21 am Post subject: |
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Mos6502 wrote:
In what sense do they look flat? They do seem a little grainy though. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:37 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
what do you mean by flat?
try to do that in digital, the bokeh in #1 will be busy and the curtain in #2 will be burnt
another point is that printed pics are different than screen, especially for grain
last week I had a busy bokeh on my screen that get beautiful on paper _________________ T* |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:56 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well as you know, depending on the lens the background can change also the lens aperture has an effect too.......Anyway the lens looks sharp and even a cheap film can give good results, the colours look strange so I would try another cheap film like Kodak colorplus 200asa (£1 a roll in the Uk) and a scan to CD from someone else probably Walmart is the cheapest...... they own Asda in the UK and I get dev and scan to CD with index all in a nice folder and CD cover for £3
Kodak colorplus 200asa (£1) dev and scanned at supermarket (£3) using a Nikon AF210 bought for 50p....the dark/strange bits on the RH side was my finger (not use to P&Ss )
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent.
Last edited by Excalibur on Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:02 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I don't know what you do expect from film, but to my eyes your two photos look of excellent quality
(the second one could use half stop more exposure, but that's a side note) _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:34 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Yep, I agree, I can't see what you mean by flat. The colours are a little cool and unsaturated maybe, but that's the film and nothing to do with the equipment or your skill/technique. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
OK I guess my expectations were too high. I think I will try some B&W next. And I am going to shop around for developing. $14 per 24 exp is killing me. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:36 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
adent wrote: |
$14 per 24 exp is killing me. |
That is the nasty bit of shooting on film, isn't it? _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
adent wrote: |
$14 per 24 exp is killing me. |
That is the nasty bit of shooting on film, isn't it? |
That's why every shot has to count. That's what makes film more fun to use, because you can't afford to waste shots.
It often takes me a year to finish a 36 roll of slide or colour neg.
Just think to yourself every time you wind that advance lever - that's another 58c _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
adent wrote: |
OK I guess my expectations were too high. I think I will try some B&W next. And I am going to shop around for developing. $14 per 24 exp is killing me. |
Buy expired film or bulk one and develop by your self.
B&W 35mm fresh bulk film cost around 1-2 usd , developer cost +1 usd = 2-3 usd not bad at all
C41 expired , but good film 35mm cost 1 usd , developer cost mater of developer package 1-or 5 L another 2 or 1 usd. = 2-3 usd
E-6 slide expired roll 2-3 usd + 2-3 usd for developer = 4-6 usd developed.
I never understand people who are spend a lot on car , digital gear and try to saving on film what shoot perhaps once a month /roll.
14 usd /roll quiet a lot right, do by yourself more fun and cost is lot less.
http://forum.mflenses.com/bandw-developing-essential-answers-t3238.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/e-6-diy-t36470.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/c41-diy-t36469.html _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila wrote: |
I never understand people who are spend a lot on car , digital gear and try to saving on film what shoot perhaps once a month /roll.
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+1
I spend 4 Eur for develop of one colour film
Enough to buy one idiot magazine or a Campari and you already spent the same sum for much less fun. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Adent
They do like fine. Definitely have the personality of the film you used. As well the open aperture will give a lower contrast.
Try some other other films and see the difference. Also try different labs. $14 for a 24 exp is way too high for a lab to charge.
I'm paying $5 for develop only of 36 (or 120) C41 or E6 (un-carded). I scan my own but, this lab charges only $2 extra for preview (2mpx) scans of 36 exposures if done at time of development. 120 scans are another story though (ouch!). |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
In my current living conditions developing them myself is out of the question. I have no space to do it. There is also the fact that I am clueless as to how to do it. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Of course, it's not only the costs.
My local labs are utter crap.
Yes, Attila, I could develop on my own. But I do not have the time to set things up and do it.
So I need to use the local lab.
Perhaps I have found another one and will test that. At the latest with the first roll of the Holga toy. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Keep in mind that the camera is just a light box; the IQ will come from the film and the lens. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
adent wrote: |
In my current living conditions developing them myself is out of the question. I have no space to do it. There is also the fact that I am clueless as to how to do it. |
A kitchen basin is fine for developing, process is fast 10-15 minutes faster than go to lab. Process is simple just follow instructions. Film can dry under night when nobody use kitchen or bathroom. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
adent wrote: |
In my current living conditions developing them myself is out of the question. I have no space to do it. There is also the fact that I am clueless as to how to do it. |
All you need is a sink or even just a basin.
Could I suggest you read my essential guide!
http://forum.mflenses.com/bandw-developing-essential-answers-t3238.html _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
I went to a local camera shop today. A very small limited shop (Cord Camera) and purchased a roll of B&W Ilford HP5 today. I hope that my results will be worthwhile. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
adent wrote: |
I went to a local camera shop today. A very small limited shop (Cord Camera) and purchased a roll of B&W Ilford HP5 today. I hope that my results will be worthwhile. |
erm It could work out expensive unless you develope and scan the neg yourself...all the cheap places are set up for colour, but you can get C41 B/W and supermarkets can develope that (in the UK it can be as low as 99p) _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
Confused; You just place the neg on a flatbed scanner and or am I missing something? |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
adent wrote: |
Confused; You just place the neg on a flatbed scanner and or am I missing something? |
It has to be one that can scan negs or alternately there are threads here showing how some members have used their digital cameras. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
I checked my scanner. It won't scan negs. Well it will, they just still look like Negs. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
adent wrote: |
I checked my scanner. It won't scan negs. Well it will, they just still look like Negs. |
Well you need a different lens system for scanning negs...about the cheapest s/h film scanner that I know would be the Epson 2480 photo...it's old but still good and can be a low as £8 to buy if you are lucky. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
adent wrote: |
Confused; You just place the neg on a flatbed scanner and or am I missing something? |
Yep, you need some way of shining the light through the negative. As a basic method, you can tape negatives to your window glass and shoot them with a digital camera and a close-focussing lens. Film scanners have a light in the lid and special holders for film and slides to keep them flat and off the platen glass (film in contact with glass sometimes causes a visible pattern on the scan called Newton's rings). _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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adent
Joined: 06 Oct 2011 Posts: 304 Location: United States
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Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 12:21 am Post subject: |
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adent wrote:
Right now I'm just considering a negative scanner. I kinda like my current printer.
Anyone have any experience with those? |
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