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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:24 am Post subject: Printing a digital file in B&W |
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Orio wrote:
I need to make a print of this image:
http://forum.mflenses.com/girl-at-the-palio-t17489.html
for the photo contest.
Printing here with inkjet is out of question: too poor quality.
I want real photographic paper but the problem is: so far, whenever I ordered a B&W print from a B&W digital file, I always got a bad result with some colour tint (mostly greenish).
What do you suggest to print a digital file in real B&W?
I have been thinking of making a colour print and photographing it with a &W film. But this would raise the contrast too much.
Do you know if there is a service where they can take a digital file and create a B&W negative from it?
Any other ideas? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html
Last edited by Orio on Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:23 am; edited 2 times in total |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 3:20 am Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
There are some great Archival B+W digital print papers and inks.
If you use a lab. Insist that they use a acid free paper (likely cotton and not paper at all).
Also that they have and use Black only to make your print. The odd tints (green) you see are from color inks combined to produce black and gray tones and, PH too low in the paper reacting with the inks.
There are now 100% carbon archival inkjets inks from Epson and others.
The results are impressive to say the least. _________________ Moderator |
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GrahamNR17
Joined: 17 Jan 2009 Posts: 1855 Location: Norfolk, UK
Expire: 2012-09-06
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:58 am Post subject: |
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GrahamNR17 wrote:
What Andy said
Alternatively, you need to find a competent pro-lab that will print it for you. I use Lab 35 in the UK. I too have found colour casts on cheap prints from most bulk print companies. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 8:40 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Thanks guys! I will see what I can find here.
Contest time is too close so I don't think I can send the file abroad and wait for the print.
Ideally, for the future, I should find a way to make a film B&W negative from a digital file, so that I can print at home with my enlarger.
I need to investigate about it also. It sounds exciting, the flexibility of RAW plus a real B&W print on barite paper.... _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:14 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
What you could do is to print out (or order) a high-quality colour-print and then shoot this print with a film cam loaded with a decent b&w film. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:22 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
What you could do is to print out (or order) a high-quality colour-print and then shoot this print with a film cam loaded with a decent b&w film. |
Yes I mentioned that already but it would raise the contrast and I am already at the limit of the contrast in the original image. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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GrahamNR17
Joined: 17 Jan 2009 Posts: 1855 Location: Norfolk, UK
Expire: 2012-09-06
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:41 am Post subject: |
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GrahamNR17 wrote:
I didn't mean for you to use Lab 35, but you must have a company like that somewhere in your country.
The reason I like Lab 35: They will do superb digital prints, either with dye-sub printers, or better still they have machines that produce real photographic prints from digital. It must be worth doing a thorough google investigation, as you will probably need to use them quite a lot over the years.
I would avoid the inter-neg option, you will just lose a bit of quality, even though it is quite easy to control the contrast with appropriate film and developer combinations. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:01 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I have no idea if such advanced service exists in Italy... Alessandro? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote: |
LucisPictor wrote: |
What you could do is to print out (or order) a high-quality colour-print and then shoot this print with a film cam loaded with a decent b&w film. |
Yes I mentioned that already but it would raise the contrast and I am already at the limit of the contrast in the original image. |
Ah, OK. I have overlooked that.
No way around it? Perhaps an old low-contrast lens? _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
LucisPictor wrote: |
What you could do is to print out (or order) a high-quality colour-print and then shoot this print with a film cam loaded with a decent b&w film. |
Yes I mentioned that already but it would raise the contrast and I am already at the limit of the contrast in the original image. |
Ah, OK. I have overlooked that.
No way around it? Perhaps an old low-contrast lens? |
Reproduction needs a perfectly balanced lens, old lenses usually don't have this characteristic and are too weak in the corners.
I should use an enlarger lens like my Rodagon.
I think Graham pointed the best way, by using a combination of film/developer/develop time that lowers contrast... but my darkroom experience for now is zero so I can not go that way. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Reproduction needs a perfectly balanced lens, old lenses usually don't have this characteristic and are too weak in the corners.
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Just use the central part of it, leave out the corners.
On a low-ISO film you should be able to crop without big loss. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
Reproduction needs a perfectly balanced lens, old lenses usually don't have this characteristic and are too weak in the corners.
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Just use the central part of it, leave out the corners.
On a low-ISO film you should be able to crop without big loss. |
There is also the matter of planarity... _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
For years, newspapers have converted digital files into negatives using various specialised press machines (ours was called a Linotron). If you have a friendly newspaper that still uses that technology they should be able to convert your file to a negative (there is a move towards going straight from computer files to printing plates, cutting out the negative stage, but it is expensive so smaller papers probably won't have that yet).
Failing that, try a good commercial printer who produces glossy magazines and posters, the chances are that they will have the technology, as do leading advertising graphic design companies, who prepare negatives as artwork for newspapers.
Hope that helps.
Paul
PS: Make sure you specify the right number of dots per inch, or you might end up with newspaper quality negs, which can be as low as 80 dpi. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
B&W printing is mostly done with ink jet printers running RIP drivers and programs. Quadtone RIP is good and free for your home printing. Expensive ink jet printes have their own RIP, tested with inks and papers.
About paper... it depends which kind of inks your printer uses, dye inks or water inks. Hahnemuhle paper are marvellous but not all their papers are comaptible with all the inks. Then you can have carbon based dyes, etc... the limit is just the cost.
I used this company for large good quality B&W printing: http://www.fotolandia.com/gadget/index.php
Don't stop at the front page, which is suited for popular printing. Send them a mail explaining your needs and asking for prices. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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piticu
Joined: 04 Aug 2008 Posts: 591 Location: Romania
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 5:34 am Post subject: |
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piticu wrote:
I've tested on my Epson R2400 printer several inks and papers over the last couple of years. With this printer you only can use pigment inks. For b&w prints the best results i got with Piezography inks - 100% carbon suspension, seven dilutions that give an wonderful gamut and great dynamic range, superior to the original Epson K3 inks. Carbon does not fade over the years and has no bronzing.
If you aim archival quality look for a paper that has no acids and no optical brightening agents. I also recommend to stay away from buffered papers or so called watercolor papers. Also if you will mat or frame the print ask for archival quality too. The one that impressed me alot was Hahnemuhle Bamboo paper but there are plenty to chose from.
If you cannot find someone to meet all this demands, I'd recommend that you use one trusted commercial printer that's out there, Nash Editions is the one that poped immediately into my mind. If the time is not of the essence, by the end of next month i'll be able to help you out with a print.
Links:
Piezography
Hahnemuhle
Nash Editions _________________ www.atelierelealbe.eu |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:22 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Thanks eveybody !! Great information.
I think this thread deserves to become a sticky. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:23 am Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
Nowadays there are labs that use the Fuji Frontier "Silver edition" B&W minilabs. These deliver B&W prints on Ilford Express paper, and the quality is very good! _________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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