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goombles
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 08 Apr 2010 Posts: 136 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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goombles wrote:
I also have those milky dots on one of my lenses, however I can only see them when the lens is pointed at a direct light source such as a desk lamp. I think it shouldn't have any dramatic effect on the performance of the lens unless you're facing a bright light source like the sun.
Unfortunately I don't know exactly what it is, but by looking at the diagram for the lens, and where the dots appear, I hope it isn't some kind of lens seperation taking place (it at all possible?) _________________
Cameras: Canon 7D, Olympus OM-2n, Spotmatic SPII
M42: Sonnar 135/3.5, Flektogon 35/2.4, SMC Takumar 50/1.4, SMC Takumar 55/1.8, SMC Takumar 35/3.5
Tamron: SP 90/2.5 Macro |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Oh yes, clean only if necessary , it is impact much on images other ways left as is. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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uhoh7
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:40 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Oh yes, clean only if necessary , it is impact much on images other ways left as is. |
I've found a good guy for reasonable price to CLA.
Attila--you think it is better not to clean? _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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Socrates
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 18
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Socrates wrote:
I found this huge lens in my dad's basement. Yikes. Doesn't look very good.
![](http://i55.tinypic.com/2luxkhw.jpg) |
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Väsen
Joined: 06 Sep 2011 Posts: 38
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Väsen wrote:
Hello!
I hope I'm resurrecting a worthwhile cause and not beating a dead horse.
This is a thread to post pictures of fungus cases, but as there have also been a few queries I thought I'd ask too.
Some time ago I got a Jupiter 37A that had lots of little specks covering a whole element, more towards the edges (no strands). After asking around it seemed chances were rather good it was just that, so I gave it to someone, who said he took it apart and "did not see anything with my eyes but noted some strands of fungus when I took it apart" or something to that effect.
I recently got a Volna 9, and it looks quite the same, but it's on a central element and is rather hard to see with your eyes and quite impossible to photograph. Moreover the ratio of specks between the center and the edges is more even than for the Jupiter. However, as it looks mostly like the Jupiter, I'll show a pic of it and ask for people's opinion:
K, uploading and inserting does not appear to work, and neither does just using the img tags. Oh well, link: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/5969516357_480098f0eb_o.jpg
Last edited by Väsen on Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:16 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Väsen wrote: |
Hello!
I hope I'm resurrecting a worthwhile cause and not beating a dead horse.
This is a thread to post pictures of fungus cases, but as there have also been a few queries I thought I'd ask too.
Some time ago I got a Jupiter 37A that had lots of little specks covering a whole element, more towards the edges (no strands). After asking around it seemed chances were rather good it was just that, so I gave it to someone, who said he took it apart and "did not see anything with my eyes but noted some strands of fungus when I took it apart" or something to that effect.
I recently got a Volna 9, and it looks quite the same, but it's on a central element and is rather hard to see with your eyes and quite impossible to photograph. Moreover the ratio of specks between the center and the edges is more even than for the Jupiter. However, as it looks mostly like the Jupiter, I'll show a pic of it and ask for people's opinion:
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20119/4661_5969516357_480098f0eb_o_1.jpg) |
_________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Welcome! I think this is trace path of drying, lens cleaning fluid went to inner elements and when it is dried left this small spots. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
uhoh7 wrote: |
Attila wrote: |
Oh yes, clean only if necessary , it is impact much on images other ways left as is. |
I've found a good guy for reasonable price to CLA.
Attila--you think it is better not to clean? |
If he is trustworthy experienced guy risk is little , better to clean than left as is. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Väsen
Joined: 06 Sep 2011 Posts: 38
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Väsen wrote:
Wow, thanks for the quick reply.
I see the img tags work in the preview, and when quoted, but not in the actual post, hmm.
Oh well, your answer gives me hope that the Volna isn't suffering from fungus, so time to take it for a spin while I wait for my desiccant packs to arrive : ) |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Väsen wrote: |
Wow, thanks for the quick reply.
I see the img tags work in the preview, and when quoted, but not in the actual post, hmm.
Oh well, your answer gives me hope that the Volna isn't suffering from fungus, so time to take it for a spin while I wait for my desiccant packs to arrive : ) |
No image, url in first post , help to keep away spammers. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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VisualDarkness
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 30 Oct 2011 Posts: 54 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:31 am Post subject: |
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VisualDarkness wrote:
Is this fungus? It's like a ring around the inside of the front element but with a "knot" as seen in the picture. It looks orange trough the glass and is only see-able in a angle like the photo with a lamp shining about 90 degrees from the other side of the where the camera was (wow, that was a bad explanation). It's a Sigma 28mm.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/201111/4869_fungus_1.jpg) |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:39 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
VisualDarkness wrote: |
Is this fungus? It looks orange trough the glass and is only see-able in a angle like the photo with a lamp shining about 90 degrees from the other side of the where the camera was (wow, that was a bad explanation). |
That's separation.
It happens when the optical cement that is supposed to keep together two pieces of glass, actually dries out and separate.
The remains of orange colour are the residuals of dried cement.
It is fixable, but only by people who know what they're doing and who have access to optical cement of quality.
I'm afraid that it will cost more than the value of the lens, so my suggestion is to use the lens as is until it's possible,
then, when the image quality degrades too much, to simply buy another lens. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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VisualDarkness
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 30 Oct 2011 Posts: 54 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:53 am Post subject: |
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VisualDarkness wrote:
Orio wrote: |
VisualDarkness wrote: |
Is this fungus? It looks orange trough the glass and is only see-able in a angle like the photo with a lamp shining about 90 degrees from the other side of the where the camera was (wow, that was a bad explanation). |
That's separation.
It happens when the optical cement that is supposed to keep together two pieces of glass, actually dries out and separate.
The remains of orange colour are the residuals of dried cement.
It is fixable, but only by people who know what they're doing and who have access to optical cement of quality.
I'm afraid that it will cost more than the value of the lens, so my suggestion is to use the lens as is until it's possible,
then, when the image quality degrades too much, to simply buy another lens. |
Actually I find it to be good news, at least better than fungus as I don't have to worry about it spreading to other equipment. The lens is a bit soft with a small bloom-effect (maybe the separation explains it) but I actually like it. It may not be sharp as other lenses but got its character.
I'm examining all the lenses I've bought so far to get rid of ones I don't like so I will probably post more pics of other cases. |
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Excalibur
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
****.....at least better than fungus as I don't have to worry about it spreading to other equipment****
You probably have more fungus/mould spores on your body than on your lens.....over 2000 species, so wear a full chemical suit when handling your lenses ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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VisualDarkness
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 30 Oct 2011 Posts: 54 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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VisualDarkness wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
****.....at least better than fungus as I don't have to worry about it spreading to other equipment****
You probably have more fungus/mould spores on your body than on your lens.....over 2000 species, so wear a full chemical suit when handling your lenses ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
I know that, but after reading everything about that you never should store moldy lenses with "clean" ones in the camera bag I got a bit anxious about it.
Maybe a chemical suit and only use lenses in a sterile environment isn't such a bad idea? ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
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Excalibur
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
VisualDarkness wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
****.....at least better than fungus as I don't have to worry about it spreading to other equipment****
You probably have more fungus/mould spores on your body than on your lens.....over 2000 species, so wear a full chemical suit when handling your lenses ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
I know that, but after reading everything about that you never should store moldy lenses with "clean" ones in the camera bag I got a bit anxious about it.
Maybe a chemical suit and only use lenses in a sterile environment isn't such a bad idea? ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
Even Nasa can't keep these nasties out e.g. :-
http://science.nasa.gov/science-news/science-at-nasa/2000/ast26nov_1/ _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
VisualDarkness wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
****.....at least better than fungus as I don't have to worry about it spreading to other equipment****
You probably have more fungus/mould spores on your body than on your lens.....over 2000 species, so wear a full chemical suit when handling your lenses ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
I know that, but after reading everything about that you never should store moldy lenses with "clean" ones in the camera bag I got a bit anxious about it.
Maybe a chemical suit and only use lenses in a sterile environment isn't such a bad idea? ![Wink](images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
Never store any lens in camera bag , this is right expression, store lenses in a safe place , where is humidity is low, without caps to get light throw and in dust free environment. My solution is a transparent plastic box, with huge amount of silica gel or other humidity remover. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Attila
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I saw this lens on local auction owner said it has glue problem around edges or perhaps fungus, mold
One of the most extensive fungus what I ever seen.
#1
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/201111/5_fungus_on_lens_1.jpg) _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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VisualDarkness
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 30 Oct 2011 Posts: 54 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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VisualDarkness wrote:
It's so pronounced that it almost looks artsy! ![Laughing](images/smiles/icon_lol.gif) |
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Keysersoze27
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 466 Location: Greece
Expire: 2012-12-24
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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Keysersoze27 wrote:
I have never seen this been reported but what about the common antiseptic Betadine 10% solution (povidone-iodine) to cure fungus infections?????
It kills everything from bacteria to fungus in 30 secs...
One plus is that it is not acidic and mild enough to be used in skin . _________________ Canon EOS 5D MkII , EOS 50E, Contax RTS, Olympus OM2n, Nikon Z6ii
28mm: Zeiss Distagon 2.8/28 MMJ
35mm: CZ Distagon 2/35 ZE , S-M-C Takumar 3.5/35
40mm: CZJ Tessar T 4.5/40 1Q
50mm: CZ Planar 1.4/50 MMJ,CZ Planar 1.7/50 AEJ+MMJ,Leica Summicron 2/50 v3,S-M-C Takumar 1.4/50,Pentax SMC 1.4/50 K,Pentax SMC 1.8/55 K,Nikkor 1.8/50 ,CZJ Tessar T 3.5/50 1Q , CZ Planar 1.8/50 (QBM),Zuiko 1.4/50, Zuiko 1.8/50, Icarex Tessar 2.8/50, Nikkor 2/50 Ai,Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 2.8/50 Preset, Pentacon Prakticar 2.4/50 MC v1, CZJ Pancolar 1.8/50 Zebra , Rikenon 1.4/50 P
55mm: Fujinon 1.8/55 EBC
58mm: Helios MC 44-3 2/58
85mm: Zeiss Sonnar 2.8/85 AEJ
90mm: Voigtl�nder APO-Lanthar 3.5/90 SLII , Leica Elmarit-R 2.8/90 v2
100~105mm:Zeiss Sonnar 3.5/100 MM, Nikkor 2.5/105 AiS, S-M-C Takumar 2.8/105
135mm: Leica Elmarit R 2.8/135 v2, S-M-C Takumar 3.5/135, CZJ 4/135 Sonnar Exakta leatherette (1963),CZJ 4/135 Triotar
Macro:Leica Macro-Elmarit R 2.8/60, Micro-Nikkor Auto 3.5/55 Compensating type (1964) |
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me
Joined: 02 May 2012 Posts: 10
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 4:36 pm Post subject: |
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me wrote:
Hi, I am brand new here. I just picked up a canon FD lens, and this is what I am seeing. it is an FD 100-300mm f 5.6 which is the same body as the L model, but minus the more high quality glass I guess since it lacks the L and the red line. I bought this with the intention of using it on a micro 4/3 body for video, but now seeing the stuff I couldn't see at the used shop I am wondering if I am stuck with a lemon. Is this fixable? will it affect the image? is it Mold, or???? Thanks.
By lazydaze at 2012-05-02
By lazydaze at 2012-05-02
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4849/lens1u.jpg
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/1254/lens2.jpg
not sure why the images are not showing, is there a minimum post number to post pics![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20125/5570_lens3_1.jpg) |
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visualopsins
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10934 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 1:48 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Welcome me! Yes, new members can't post images -- for spam prevention...
Try the lens! Looks like fungus. Contrast may be affected. Fungus may be seen in bokeh highlights. The lens can be cleaned. Best case will be like new lens! Worst case, fungus has etched glass and/or coatings. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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me
Joined: 02 May 2012 Posts: 10
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 3:12 am Post subject: |
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me wrote:
Thanks for the reply, being that it is a newer FD lens is this something I can tackle on my own with basical tools, or is it better to take to a shop for repair? How much would the tools be vs the shop cost. I am always on a tight budget, but if need be I can save the money to get it done right. Plenty of camera shops around here (tokyo). |
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me
Joined: 02 May 2012 Posts: 10
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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me wrote:
I will answer my own question based on what a pro told me yesterday. The old FD lenses are very easy to open up and repair, and the newer ones are very difficult. That being said, I am a glutan for punishment, so can someone please point me to a guide for repairing both the older and newer lenses? I am good with tools, and small parts. Just need to know what tools etc I need, and what I am doing. |
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visualopsins
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10934 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
In the Equipment Care and Repairs forum: http://forum.mflenses.com/basic-techniques-to-repair-lenses-and-cameras-t32862.html _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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