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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:00 pm Post subject: Be careful with those filters ! |
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luisalegria wrote:
While testing my new Sears 200mm, I was getting dismayed by the apparently poor quality of its rendering; it seemed the thing was just not focusing properly, or it was hopelessly fuzzy wide-open.
But I thought to try it without hood or filter, and suddenly it became a decent lens. The problem was the old 67mm UV filter. It was either fooling the focus confirm on the K100D or it was just badly degrading the image. I've never noticed such a thing before.
With filter, 100% crop, f/3.5, infinity focus -
Without filter -
This filter was formerly on a Tokina 28-80 zoom that I had dismissed as a lousy lens after trying it out. Maybe that one isn't so bad either. |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Iteresting Your samples show a very dramatic effect. How did the scene look thru the viewfinder? I have not experienced such bad degradation of IQ from a filter before. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I use filters as lens cap only in storage.. Most of filter degrade image quality, Orio suggested to use B+W filters what are not degrade image quality. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
I was very surprised too.
The image looked good through the viewfinder, but frankly I can't really focus precisely just by viewing the image, as the K100D standard focusing screen is optimized for brightness and doesn't have a proper groundglass. So I have to depend on the focus confirm.
I am coming to the conclusion that I should replace the focusing screen with a groundglass/split-image one. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
with split focusing screen I need always calibrate light meter, not so convince. For example at f4 I have to add +1.0 at f5.6 +1.7 etc, At every aperture changes I have to change light meter set too. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Good point. I will have to research more.
For what camera did you change the focusing screen ? |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Olympus E-1 + Katz-Eye split screen (one of the most expensive and best ones) _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I have never seen such a strong influence of the filters I use.
But I try to use only very good ones (B&W, Hoya etc.). _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Is Hoya close to B&W ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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bob955i wrote:
B+W are easier to clean than Hoya due to the different coating.
As an aside, if you use Tokina lenses, the glass is supplied by Hoya, who happen to own Tokina.... |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6557 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
I'm surprised at that. First time I've seen such a bad effect from a filter - what make was it, so we know to avoid them? _________________ Dave - Moderator
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
This might be a silly question, but ...
if you take some lens cleaning solution (isopropyl alchohol) and a lint free cloth, and clean both sides of the filter, does that clear up any of this blurring distortion?
Is it a coated or uincoated filter?
If you hold the filter up to the light, is there a visible change in colour or any visible distortion or marks on the filter?
It seems like a really pronounced degradation. I have seen veiling flare from poor filters, but nothing this bad. (I only use B+W filters, now) _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Hey BTW: The unfiltered shot looks pretty good for a wide open crop from a Sears lens. |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
The filter is a plastic-rim Kalimar, from the 1980's I guess. It came with a batch of used equipment from that era and has been sitting in a box in our garage for a couple of decades.
I think it was pretty much the cheapest lens one could buy when it was new.
It is clean, more or less. No oil, no smears, a bit of coating loss and some little scratches, no more than most of my other (generally lousy) filters. The rim (plastic) is chipped, but not the glass.
It may be off-center, I can't easily tell, that may be the problem.
That POS is now safely in the trash.
The real problem may be that it was making the focus-confirm malfunction. |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
That Sears ain't bad - wide-open on that long shot it beats my Sigma AND Komura 200's, as well as the Meyer, Piesker and Soligor 180's. I need to take it out where there are real pictures. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Is Hoya close to B&W ? |
If you take the coated pro versions of Hoya, yes! _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Laurence wrote:
Unless I forget I generally take my filters off when I'm shooting. They are certainly useful as lens caps, and I think they would actually absorb a shattering blow by acting as a "sacrifice" for the lens. I have heard of shattering blows with a lens cap on where the lens cap does not break, but the lens does...of course that's only circumstantial, but it's so easy to use the glass filter for a lens cap anyway. _________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Attila wrote: |
Is Hoya close to B&W ? |
If you take the coated pro versions of Hoya, yes! |
This picture shows the difference in reflections caused by simple and multi coatings.
The low quality Soligor (right) filter shows much brighter reflections than the high quality filter Hoya HMC super - and this is not even the "pro" version. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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