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"3D" effect?
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Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:54 pm
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Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:54 pm
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I have a vivitar 3D lens Wink

I think best in 3D Distagon lenses..


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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:19 pm
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:19 pm
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My concept of "3D" in the two dimensional photographs is very different from what is commonly conceived.
I used to take stereo pairs of slides in the past (it really doesn't take any special equipment - just a tripod and, optionally, an air bubble leveller).
However what is obtained with that trick is not 3D for me, it's more like what I call the "binoculars effect", or it could also be called the stage curtains effect... simply said it's when you have a flat panel followed by another flat panel at a distance, and so on until the background panel.
What I mean as 3D in photographs instead is what I usually call "perception of roundness" which I think is a more appropriate definition.
Differently from the binoculars effect, the perception of roundness focuses more on the dimensional quality of the object itself, than the distance effect of the object from the background.
Distance from background also plays a role, but I think it's more important that the objects on their own are perceived as dimensional - as opposed to the typical binoculars effect.
For my concept of perception of roundness, several factors concur:

- lighiting (key role)
- microcontrast of the lens
- OOF transition of the lens
- composition of the image (this includes positions, colours etc)

-


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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:46 pm
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:46 pm
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Farside wrote:
PaulC wrote:
Nope. I just end up with three churches. It's like the 3D dots puzzles that enjoyed a brief moment of popularity 10 or 15 years ago - some people get it almost instantly, others just can't see it at all.

I get it, but end up with a headache, especially that last one - it's too dark. I also suspect there's no money in looking like Ben Turpin any more.

There are a couple of freeware programs which dotify an image to produce one of those 'grams.


Ben Turpin?

Man I thought I was old!!! Laughing Laughing


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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:20 pm
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:20 pm
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Here's my attempt. I wasn't really trying, it just resulted. I believe it was a direct result of camera angle to the subject and DOF.



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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:58 pm
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:58 pm
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You can view it larger here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shadarington/3286058013/


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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:34 pm
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:34 pm
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I tried both ways- front focal point & center. Between the 2, the center focused just looked better. Can't explain it but it just seemed to lift off the screen (at least to my eyes it did LOL)


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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:04 am
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:04 am
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Totally not MF lens, but I use my iPhone to do these




More on topic, I just purchased http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=320323445289 this on Ebay to use with my Helios 44M (doesn't have to be that lens, but apparently, that's what the kit was designed to be used on). I'll post some pics when I receive it Wink


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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 4:00 am
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 4:00 am
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Keith G wrote:

If you are into it as far as buying stuff to do it, the name 'Loreo' looms large:

http://www.loreo.com/




Ooh, those look cool, although slightly on the expensive side Wink Thanks for letting me know, I've bookmarked the website Very HappyD


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Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 3:03 pm
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Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 3:03 pm
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I was just scanning some ancient slides and this one reminded me of this thread. It is Nottingham Council House, England, on a stormy afternoon in April 1981. It is shot on Kodachrome slide film, using an ME Super with a 28-70 Sirius Zoom.



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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:25 pm
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:25 pm
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Still waiting for my stereo kit Wink

In the mean time, here's a shot I took the other day. Excuse me that it's not a manual lens, but I shot it in manual mode Very Happy


It has that "pop out" quality, I think primarily because of the relatively shallow DoF (shot at f2.5) and the fact that the subject is... well, very three-dimensional at this angle Wink


K20D + Pentax FA 31mm f1.8 Limited


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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:36 pm
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:36 pm
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I think that I made only one photo which shows kind of 3 dimensions




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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:52 am
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:52 am
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Got my SKF1 today. It's awesome, and works OK with on an APS-C sensor. I'm guessing that the FOV would be wider with a full frame cam. Perhaps I'll snap a few with my Spotmatic (as I have yet to own an FF DSLR Wink





Very simple design Wink





Theoretically it should work with any lens (with perhaps some limitations on focal length) as long as you have the right filter size, but the SKF1 was designed to be used with a Helios-44, so that's what I mounted Wink



And here are some pics taken with it. Best seen at this size, or maybe even smaller.





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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:21 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:21 pm
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Keith G wrote:
Heh heh! That's a killer! Very Happy

I think there must be a knack to getting the double prints about right - keep the gadget level for one thing and avoid pix with a defocussed object in the foreground. From what I can see of it (I'm no expert) I would guess it pays to 'keep it simple' and have only 2 or 3 main planes of focus in the whole frame.

What's the red turntable - Technics? Very Happy



Yeah, I'll try various things to see what works best Smile I did find out that it's obviously easier on the eyes if I trimmed out the dark band in the middle in Photoshop; also, shooting at wider apertures will give you less of that band, i.e., more actual picture. Unfortunately that will create a shallow DoF, which as you say might not be the optimal way to shoot.

And yes, the turntable is my trusty Technics SL-1200Mk-3; the red is a slip-on cover, and on the top is a Plastikman slipmat Very Happy


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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:49 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:49 pm
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I have a Vivitar 3D lens still untested,

http://www.stereoskopie.com/3D-Anaglyphen/Vivitar_Qdos_System/body_vivitar_qdos_system.html
http://flickr.com/photos/yoyo31/2954077537/


Best 3D effect what I seen from normal lenses was all Carl Zeiss lens, I remember for one what is especially good one that is CZ 35mm f1.4 showed to us by Orio and Poilu.


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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:59 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:59 pm
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Attila wrote:
I have a Vivitar 3D lens still untested,

http://www.stereoskopie.com/3D-Anaglyphen/Vivitar_Qdos_System/body_vivitar_qdos_system.html
http://flickr.com/photos/yoyo31/2954077537/


Best 3D effect what I seen from normal lenses was all Carl Zeiss lens, I remember for one what is especially good one that is CZ 35mm f1.4 showed to us by Orio and Poilu.



Very cool looking lens, you must try it!!


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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:01 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:01 pm
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I am planning Wink


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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:46 pm
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:46 pm
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Is this in the idea ?




Taken with Tair 11A (5.6)


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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:02 pm
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:02 pm
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What about this one?


Meyer Trioplan 1.9/58 @f/2.8 on an EOS 5D classic.


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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:21 pm
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:21 pm
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great, your little princess grow a lot, nice to see her


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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:27 pm
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:27 pm
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Wink


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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 3:05 pm
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 3:05 pm
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Super 3D, Carsten !!


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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:58 pm
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:58 pm
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Here few shots with 5D and f:1.2/85L II - AF shots - all wide open







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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:52 pm
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:52 pm
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Nice tread... my contribution... All Tokina 90mm f2.5







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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:01 pm
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:01 pm
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in the past i drew a lot. my experience there was, that plasticity was mainly a matter of

-lights/schadows
&
-perspective

and i would rate the lights/schadws above the perspective. in another thread i reminded myself of a graffiti artist i really liked. in his work, you can see, what i mean. he uses no more than light and perspective to "simulate" 3D.
http://www.daimgallery.com/

especially for photography i would go with orio and add micro contrast as a main point, which precises light-shadow transitions. even if they are extremely hard or soft.


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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:36 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:36 pm
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Another one:


Tamron 2.5/135 on EOS 5D.
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