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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:22 am Post subject: Why not to buy cheap Chinese variable ND filters |
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Nesster wrote:
I figured I'd try one, I understood there would be color shift, but planned on converting to b&w anyway. The item in question is a FOTGA Variable ND Filter; it promises "Optical Glass from Japan" etc Click here to see on Ebay... I suppose I'll have to try their
'professional after sales support.'
Apart from the obvious, the filter screws up sharpness at infinity.
#1
#2
Ai'd Nikkor-P 24/2.8, D600 _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7568 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:29 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
From the auction link:
Quote: |
It may not be suitable for wide angle lens <24mm,35mm film format equivalent. |
The X vignetting is nearly unavoidable if you use a VND a high ND setting in a wide angle lens. _________________ https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:35 am Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Thanks for that... what causes that, just the geometry of the thing? _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2697 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:43 am Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
I have a cheap one too (approx £12-Amazon) and mine also softens images, though not much. The colour cast is minimal and easy to correct in Lightroom.
I don't know what causes the 'X' at wide angles but it's not too difficult to avoid after a few test shots.
I keep promising myself I'll buy a 'good' one but the best ones cost over £200. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
The cheapest way to a VND is to add a linear polariser to any CPL you already own. |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4744 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
GeorgeSalt wrote: |
The cheapest way to a VND is to add a linear polariser to any CPL you already own. |
linear polarisers are not easy to get these days. The best way to get one is to take apart a Variable ND filter and take out one of the elements. But then I guess that defeats the object a bit... _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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eddieitman
Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Posts: 1246 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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eddieitman wrote:
If you want a good nd filter i can recomend the haida 10 stop nd great and not to expensive hardly any colour cast _________________ My web site www.digital-darkroom.weebly.com
Life is like a camera. Focus on what's important, capture the good times, develop from the negatives and if things don't work out, just take another shot. |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
philslizzy wrote: |
GeorgeSalt wrote: |
The cheapest way to a VND is to add a linear polariser to any CPL you already own. |
linear polarisers are not easy to get these days. The best way to get one is to take apart a Variable ND filter and take out one of the elements. But then I guess that defeats the object a bit... |
Usually easy to find a linear on Ebay, that's where I picked one up for a pound or so. |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7568 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
eddieitman wrote: |
If you want a good nd filter i can recomend the haida 10 stop nd great and not to expensive hardly any colour cast |
I bought a 77mm Haida PRO II MC ND 3.0 SLIM but I never have time to try it. Some review said it will give a slightly blue tone but easy to correct. Do you find any blue tone/tint in your copy? _________________ https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Discussion moved to appropriate section ("Accessories") _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
What GeorgeSalt said about linear polarizers. Also, I'll often buy camera outfits that are for sale locally, typically through Craigslist. This has netted me a rather large stack of both linear P's and circular P's. Anyway, stacking two is an easy way to get an ND, and one of them does not have to be circular. Something I recall from a physics class I took over 30 years ago is that when two polarizers are stacked, setting them at 90 degrees to each other renders 100% opacity, or darkness, if you will. The ones we had to demonstrate this weren't circular, either. However, stacking two circular Ps doesn't give you this effect.
Since the lens used was a 24mm Nikkor, I'm assuming the example ND filter is a 52mm, right? SonicScot's comment that one would run over £200 seemed -- well, just implausible, let's say. So I did a bit of googling. And £200 is indeed a bit high. I can buy a B+W variable ND from B&H Photo for "only" $226.95. Whoa! Such a deal! Criminy! Tiffen makes excellent filters. Theirs carries a list price of "only" $129.95. Geez, I don't understand why they're so expensive. I've just assumed they were two polarizers stacked. How else would they work? _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2697 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
Here's one on Amazon for £279 + postage http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B005CTT974/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1381075784&sr=1-1
I am talking about a 77mm variety because that covers all but two of my lenses. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
If you're just looking for very long exposures with the cheapest filter, you can't beat a DIY using welding glass..
coquet island by SaltGeorge, on Flickr |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2697 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
Nothing wrong with that George. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Welding glass comes in different darkness grades ( for different types of welding ) and it's optically flat, if welders are looking through it all day then it has to be good because of all the health and safety issues.
I use MIG welding glass which fits Cokin P filter holders. I take the sharp edges and corners off with an oilstone or one of the cheap diamond dust sharpening stones.
A visit to your local engineering supplier will get you the glass quite cheaply, but a DIY / motoring store might be sell the glass singly. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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metalhund
Joined: 04 Sep 2012 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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metalhund wrote:
GeorgeSalt wrote: |
If you're just looking for very long exposures with the cheapest filter, you can't beat a DIY using welding glass..
coquet island by SaltGeorge, on Flickr |
Dear George
What kind of welding glass do you use?
I think there are some different products on e-bay.
Is it the green one, which seems to be the most common?
KR |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
I bought it several years ago after someone sent me a link to the welding glass filled thread on Talk Photography. It's just a cheap shade 8 (I think) from EBay, I think it is green tinged. I use a Lightroom preset for the colour correction.
You can't completely take away the colour cast, but with the right scene you can get extremely close. |
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metalhund
Joined: 04 Sep 2012 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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metalhund wrote:
Thx - the photo looks great by the way |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
This one was shot with a linear-circular polariser VND.
As long as you don't push the effect to hard, you can recover the colour quite well. It's odd to use though, you set the exposure you want and then Meyer to set the filter. |
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metalhund
Joined: 04 Sep 2012 Posts: 42
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:57 am Post subject: |
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metalhund wrote:
I found this page with all the information I needed. I insert it here, if there are others who have the same questions as I do.
http://www.alexwisephotography.net/blog/2013/07/07/create-yourself-a-neutral-density-filter-for-under-10/ |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
He misses out a vital piece of equipment, you must cover up the eyepiece when doing thus to prevent light coming in from the back. It does happen during long daylight exposures. |
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metalhund
Joined: 04 Sep 2012 Posts: 42
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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metalhund wrote:
it's nice to know. Thanks for the information.
I have ordered a piece of glass, and am excited to try it. |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
My filter set-up for welding glass..
welding glass filter, mk2 by SaltGeorge, on Flickr
You need to file the bump on the back down because once you epoxy the welding glass on you can't flex the holder to get the lens ring in. |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
Lovely shot, taken about 10 miles from here. _________________ Lots of 35mm Film Cameras
Lots of Lenses
New Vlog on Youtube called "The Olduns Shot"
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBHCOHaIrcYr7s3is1EcqxQ |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Standard MIG welding glass with the sharp edges smoothed off with diamond dust sharpening stone, unmodified Cokin P Series filter holder.
Works perfectly, no gluing or messing about. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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