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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:31 am Post subject: Unfungusing a Minolta MD 50mm 1.7 |
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Jesito wrote:
After watching the thread from Ian (http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?p=1214663#1214663) where he shows the sharpness of this lens, I was impelled to try mine.
Unfortunately the lens was stocked some 10 years and developed fungus.
This is the way I've been able of cleaning them.
There were marks on both sides of the lens.
The top element showed something that I'm not sure were fungus. It might well be some nesting from some small insect:
On the bottom side it was a little different, infestation in a couple of spots (difficult to see in the picture) with spiderweb like shape:
To access the top block, the first step is to unscrew the label plate with a rubber tool:
Then remove the three screws that hold the filter thread holder:
Then remove the filter thread holder, and remove the three screws that keep the lens block in place:
Once the block freed, cleaning is done with hands cream for half an hour, washing and drying and setting it in place again:
The bottom lens block is easy to remove: just unscrew these three screws and you are done:
Just remove the baffle on top and pick the block with a suction cup:
The cleaning process is the same: hand cream for 20-30', careful washing and drying and setup in the reverse sense.
Then you have a clean, useable lens:
Hope this will be useful for someone else.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:42 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Why the hand cream, Jes? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:49 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Many thanks Jes! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:03 am Post subject: |
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bob955i wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Why the hand cream, Jes? |
For some reason, it removes fungus far better than almost anything else without harming coatings plus it acts as a lubricant while cleaning the element thus helping to avoid scratches. It's also very easily available. Only thing it can't undo is if the fungus has etched the glass.
I've used it myself to clean elements that IPA etc wouldn't look at. I then wash it off with lukewarm water and carefully dry the element.
It really works. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Why the hand cream, Jes? |
It's wonderful to remove some tipe of fungus. You apply the cream, let it dry for some half an hour, wash carefully with a soft soap cream and the fungus disappear!.
I use this thechnique since long. It's very useful, although there are some fungus that are resistant, but in 90% of the cases have proven useful.
Do you remember my post on cleaning a Samyang 500mm mirror?:
http://forum.mflenses.com/fixing-a-samyang-500mm-f8-mirror-lens-with-plenty-of-fungus-t40526,highlight,%2Bsamyang+%2B500mm.html
This was one of the most successful cases with fungus and hands cream, it fully removed the fungus and they haven't appeared anymore since then.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:24 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
bob955i wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
Why the hand cream, Jes? |
For some reason, it removes fungus far better than almost anything else without harming coatings plus it acts as a lubricant while cleaning the element thus helping to avoid scratches. It's also very easily available. Only thing it can't undo is if the fungus has etched the glass.
I've used it myself to clean elements that IPA etc wouldn't look at. I then wash it off with lukewarm water and carefully dry the element.
It really works. |
+1 !!
_________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
Why the hand cream, Jes? |
It's wonderful to remove some tipe of fungus. You apply the cream, let it dry for some half an hour, wash carefully with a soft soap cream and the fungus disappear!.
I use this thechnique since long. It's very useful, although there are some fungus that are resistant, but in 90% of the cases have proven useful.
Do you remember my post on cleaning a Samyang 500mm mirror?:
http://forum.mflenses.com/fixing-a-samyang-500mm-f8-mirror-lens-with-plenty-of-fungus-t40526,highlight,%2Bsamyang+%2B500mm.html
This was one of the most successful cases with fungus and hands cream, it fully removed the fungus and they haven't appeared anymore since then.
Regards.
Jes. |
+1 ... Up to now, all the lenses with fungus issues i have cured, have been successfully cleaned with cold cream ...
No dangerous chemicals, like isopropyl alcohol or ammonia, and harmless if you spread it with your fingers instead of using a q-tip ...
Congrats for the successful cleaning ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:40 am Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
Totally agree,
I've cleaned quite a lot of lenses with fungi and amonia and isopropanol didn´t have any effect on them but cold cream after 10 minutes did the job and left the lens looking great.
Even once it helped to clean a rear element with haze from a vivitar zoom i fixed, not completely but it reduced the haze A LOT. |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:28 am Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
sorry
what is "hand cream"
something to wash the hands as a soap ?
or is it a cream to protect the hands when weather is cold ?
thank you _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:47 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Nelson wrote: |
sorry
what is "hand cream"
something to wash the hands as a soap ?
or is it a cream to protect the hands when weather is cold ?
thank you |
Is the oily cream women use to use, like Ponds, etc.
Extend over the lens and let it for some half an hour, then carefully wash with a soft liquid soap and warm water, dry and most times (depends of the fungus kind), lens come out clean.
http://forum.mflenses.com/fixing-a-samyang-500mm-f8-mirror-lens-with-plenty-of-fungus-t40526,highlight,%2Bsamyang.html
Good luck!
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Thanks for this info Jes, I have a couple of lenses that have fungus that ISO Alcohol wouldn't remove, I shall try the cream! _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Thanks for this info Jes, I have a couple of lenses that have fungus that ISO Alcohol wouldn't remove, I shall try the cream! |
it works well for many types of fungus, but some are not cleared (the etched ones).
jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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xe0ps
Joined: 20 Apr 2013 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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xe0ps wrote:
Is there a way to open lens block itself? I have fungus on bottom of 1st lens |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
xe0ps wrote: |
Is there a way to open lens block itself? I have fungus on bottom of 1st lens |
Welcome! Depend from lens and knowledge, old lens blocks are usually open able by quality repair man in a difficult process.
Several manufacturer did start to use glue for example Carl Zeiss in Contax SLR line and basically not open able. Manufacturer did come to nasty , better to them if people throw away lenses and buy a new one than if they clean them. I did read on Zeiss page they not accept lens with fungus to fix it , due infect other lenses what a bullshit... _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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xe0ps
Joined: 20 Apr 2013 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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xe0ps wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Welcome! Depend from lens and knowledge, old lens blocks are usually open able by quality repair man in a difficult process.
Several manufacturer did start to use glue for example Carl Zeiss in Contax SLR line and basically not open able. Manufacturer did come to nasty , better to them if people throw away lenses and buy a new one than if they clean them. I did read on Zeiss page they not accept lens with fungus to fix it , due infect other lenses what a bullshit... |
Well, the talk about Minolta MD 1.7 50, and it's top lens block:
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I think this is glued block you can't clean it at home for sure, to pay for clean not worth it, enjoy little fungus not impact picture quality. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7797 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I agree, clean what you can and don't worry too much about a tiny bit inside a sealed block. I've cleaned leses, with the excellent 'cold cream', and left the hard to get at elements alone. It's always improved the lens to get the large infestation out, but a little shouldn't be a disaster to the image. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
+1
I have a super takumar 3.5/35 that came with fungus - a lot of it.
I cleaned it all, except the face of one element that is part of a sealed group: the lens works like charm, and I can't imagine it being more sharp or contrasty than it is now.
So, my advice is: store the lens right (in a dry, exposed to uv and dust free ambient) to make fungal growth as slow and difficult as possible, and clean what you manage without risking any damage to the lens.
There are good chances that you'll end up with a perfectly usable lens, with no noticeable differences from a clean one. _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
My Flickr |
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sammo
Joined: 04 Jan 2012 Posts: 223 Location: CH and SI
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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sammo wrote:
I never tryed to use cold cream for cleaning fungus. It was almost always cleanable with 50% aqueous IPA. If it wasn't then 100% IPA or water and soap did the trick. ....or I was lucky until know and never encountered "hard to clean" fungus? |
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VTGCS
Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Posts: 2 Location: Bogota, Colombia
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:58 am Post subject: |
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VTGCS wrote:
Hi, I'm sorry for posting on this thread which has been dead for a year and a day exactly... i've been a regular of this forum for about 2 years but this is my first post. I just wanted to thank you because I could fix my minolta 50mm 1.7 with these pictures.
THANKS! |
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clie
Joined: 18 Sep 2014 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 2:16 am Post subject: Minolta MD 50 f1.7 - cleaning lens block |
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clie wrote:
I've managed to clean the lens block.
A lot of trouble but it worked. This lens is so cheap, its better to buy another one. However if anyone is game, here's how to disassemble the sealed lens block.
There are 3 elements.
You cannot access the elements from the front. Go via the back.
I melted the glue from the base of the block using paint stripper. Just soak the bottom element. The bottom element just dropped out after 2 days.
The 2nd element is held together by a ridge on the plastic rim. This was the most difficult as there is no retaining ring - its just snaps into place. It's too tight to suck it out with a suction device. To get this out, I made a small hole to the side of the block in between the 1st and 2nd element, push a tooth pick inside and pushed the lens out. Be careful not to scratch the elements doing this.
Putting them back was was easy - the 2nd element just snaps into place with a little finger pressure. The 3rd element had to be re-glued. I used silicon, then repainted it black (the paint stripper had removed all the black paint).
No more fungus |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I'm sure I read somewhere on this forum that an acid in hand cream/cold cream is what moves fungus. perhaps uric acid or boric acid that is harmless to minerals but works on organic materials. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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