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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:06 pm Post subject: Pulling Fuji Neopan 400 |
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Farside wrote:
Currently in a folder, I have a roll of Fuji Neopan 400. I exposed most of the roll at 100 so far and thought I'd try some caffenol developer, which benefits from pulling the film by two stops, but then I changed my mind about caffenol - I'll use that soon, and I'd rather process this one in conventional dev.
I have a supply of D-76, but cannot find any info or anyone who's developed Neopan 400 in D-76 pulled two stops.
Anyone got any ideas? _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009 Posts: 1631 Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
Try this site, very useful for developing times . I know you can push film, but underpush ... don't know about . anyway
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php _________________ Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:36 am Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
When pulling the films I usually follow the Thornton's guidelines as he explained in his book "Edge of Darkness". He suggests two cut in half box speed when you have "bright sky with clear soft edged shadows" and reduce accordingly development time by 20%. Further if "the light is contrasty with sharp edged shadows" his suggestion is expose another third of a stop more and cut the time by 33%. I'm still experimenting but this seems to work for me. Now my best guess in your case will be to cut the time between 45 and 50%. If you need to be extremely sure to get acceptable result you can also run a clip test processing a small section at the beginning of the roll and then eventually adjust your development time.
Hope this helps.
Marty.
PS I'm currently using Ilford Perceptol 1-3 with HP5+ and FP4+ |
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Xpres
Joined: 11 Dec 2007 Posts: 964 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-10-28
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 8:59 am Post subject: |
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Xpres wrote:
Oh go on! Use the caffenol...
D76 is not the best for an over exposed film - I'd have thought a fine grain one maybe better - but... less time and/or more dilute, but your still going to get very contrasty negs. I don't think many overexpose by two stops on purpose unless for an effect, such as Caffenol. _________________ Film... and sometimes SD14, 5D2 and some other suff! |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like I might be better to just go ahead and use the caffenol as planned. I suppose the caffenol is a low-activity dev, which would sort of equate to conventional dev very dilute and/or cut way down in time.
Caffenol negs I've seen are sometimes (and only sometimes) quite impressive, but it seems there's more go wrong than right, first go.
There are a couple of pics on this roll I'd thought to preserve. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
I've just done it in Caffenol-C, and it's drying now.
For future ref, here's the recipe I used for a 120 film.
To make 500ml
9 level teaspoons of Lidl instant coffee
4 level teaspoons of Sodium Carbonate
1.5 grams of Vitamin C (3 crushed Vit C tablets)
Development time: 35minutes, agitated for 1 minute every 5.
Fixed in Ilfofix powdered fixer made up to standard strength for 5 minutes
Washed with continuous agitation for three complete changes and the third change left for 10 minutes with occasional agitation.
That's it.
Results later... they look not bad, for a first go. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
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Last edited by Farside on Sun Jul 26, 2009 7:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 741 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
Farside wrote: |
Fixed in Ilfosol powdered fixer made up to standard strength for 5 minutes
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You mean Ilfofix? Ilfosol is a film developer. |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
Seele wrote: |
Farside wrote: |
Fixed in Ilfosol powdered fixer made up to standard strength for 5 minutes
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You mean Ilfofix? Ilfosol is a film developer. |
I bloody well hope so.
I've just checked, it's Ilfofix 11. I knew it wasn't Ilford dev powder I'd picked up by mistake, as I have none of that anyway, and the D76 is unopened.
See the results at http://forum.mflenses.com/voigtlander-bessa-1935-caffenol-c-t18885.html _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
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j.lukow
Joined: 03 Oct 2007 Posts: 856 Location: Lindsay Ontario, Canada
Expire: 2021-11-25
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:49 am Post subject: |
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j.lukow wrote:
I guess its just the interest in "darkroom work"+ timings (of in fo appearing, that's inspired this question . . .
What's the draw of caffenol?
- is it home brewing a developer?
or
-does it generate an effect?
or
-is it more suited to certain aps?
JIm _________________ EMPLOYMENT: That which funded photography and my new woodworking business.j.lukow
Jim's Kit:
Minolta Kit: Minolta X570 & Autowinder G, Minolta SRT200
LENSES:Minolta - 45mm & 50mm F1:2, PF 58mm F1:1.4, Tamron 28mm f1:2.5, Tamron SP 35-80mm f1:2.8/3.8 & CF TeleMacro zoom 80-210 f1:3.8, Vivitar f3.0~4.5 35-200mm macro focusing zoom, f 2.8 28mm CF Wide angle, 2x macro focus teleconverter,Sigma F4 25-250, f 2.8~4 35-70mm zoom master,Tokina SD f4-5.6 70-210 zoom, f4.5 80-200 "Ultra" Zoom,AutoImage 135mm F1:2.8, Spiratone 400mm f1:6.3, Magicon f3.5-4.8 35-70mm macro zoom,Quantary f8-500 Mirror/macro lens, Accura MD mount Macro bellows
M42 Kit:Praktica PLC2,Yashica TL Electro X
LENSES:Meyer Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f1:1.8 , Auto Yashinon DX 1:1.7 50mm,Steinheil Munchen Culminar 135mm f4.5, Adaptall-2 M42 adapter
Zeiss . . . Zeiss Contaflex 126 system, Zeiss Contaflex Super
Medium Format: Pentacon sixTL
Hasselblad 500c/m - CZ 2.8-80mm planar, CZ 4-150mm sonnarCF |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
j.lukow wrote: |
I guess its just the interest in "darkroom work"+ timings (of in fo appearing, that's inspired this question . . .
What's the draw of caffenol?
- is it home brewing a developer?
or
-does it generate an effect?
or
-is it more suited to certain aps?
|
1. Yes, just to see what it did. I was interested in what could be done without normal developers.
2. Very grainy and old-fashioned effect, but more tweaking would have reduced that. Some of the caffenol results are very good.
3. Depends what you want - some people like a lot of grain; I don't. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
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