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neozhou
Joined: 13 Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Location: UK
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 Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject: Odd haze on the rear element, help |
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neozhou wrote:
Hi there,
Can anyone help me to identify what is the haze on the rear elements?? And can this thing be cleaned?
many thanks
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 6549
Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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| Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:49 pm Post subject: Re: Odd haze on the rear element, help |
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Farside wrote:
| neozhou wrote: |
Hi there,
Can anyone help me to identify what is the haze on the rear elements?? And can this thing be cleaned?
many thanks
|
It looks like blue mould, which is certainly different from the usual lens fungus. If it is, it can be cleaned, but if it's been there for a while the coatings and the glass could be damaged.
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 1310
Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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| Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
I succeeded in removing fungus molds using some Cold Cream ...
Just get the one available in your country (here in France, the most common one is from Avene), and use it to clean the element ...
If you need more informations, you can take a look here.
Hope this helps
Cheers
_________________
Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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neozhou
Joined: 13 Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:39 am Post subject: Re: Odd haze on the rear element, help |
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neozhou wrote:
| Farside wrote: |
It looks like blue mould, which is certainly different from the usual lens fungus. If it is, it can be cleaned, but if it's been there for a while the coatings and the glass could be damaged. |
Thanks Dave.
Initially, I thought this bule haze may be oil haze, but now i beleive it is fungus. I just received it yesterday, so that I'm not sure how long has it been there.
| indianadinos wrote: |
Hi,
I succeeded in removing fungus molds using some Cold Cream ...
Just get the one available in your country (here in France, the most common one is from Avene), and use it to clean the element ...
If you need more informations, you can take a look
Hope this helps
Cheers |
I plan to search it on ebay
thanks, french friend  |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 1310
Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:13 am Post subject: Re: Odd haze on the rear element, help |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
| neozhou wrote: |
I plan to search it on ebay
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Be careful, it may be not worth the ... price: the Cold Cream is the oldest cosmetic cream known (source Wikipedia), and it is really cheap (i think i paid mine about 3 euros) ... If you plan to look for it on eBay, maybe you will find it cheaper, but don't forget the shipping fees ...
BTW, i see you are in UK, i think Pond's Cold Cream is the easiest to find in your country ...
Cheers
_________________
Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008
Posts: 1189
Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
The original posters' lens looks rather as if it had suffered cement damage, maybe due to fungus or other microbes, maybe through heat. Repairing that can't be done at home and even is beyond an average camera workshops means. There are very few specialists that have the tools and expertise to split, clean, align and re-cement lenses, but be prepared for a repair bill exceeding the value of almost all 35mm manual focus lenses...
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Sevo |
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 488
Location: Japan
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
For fungus, what's even easier is distilled white vinegar. |
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neozhou
Joined: 13 Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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neozhou wrote:
Thanks for all reply.
I'm thinking about whether should I return it to the seller or tried to repair it by myself  |
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