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Metering with mf / stop down lenses on Canon DSLR's
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Metering with mf / stop down lenses on Canon DSLR's Reply with quote

In an earlier topic on this forum, concerning the use of af confirm adapters, @Orio wrote:
Quote:
The wider the preset aperture, the more the camera overexposes by stopping down. Which makes sense if you think about it. If you feed the camera with the amount of light that comes from a f/8 aperture, while the camera believes that you are using a f/1 aperture, the camera thinks "damn, it's very dark outside if with a f/1 aperture I can only get a 30 lux value light" and what does it do? It sets a longer shutter time.

This gives me some food for thought - though lacking experience with other brands I'll focus on the use of mf lenses on Canon. I've been wondering why I always had to correct towards underexposure when stopping down my mf lenses on my 40d with a f2.0 40 mm af confirm chip. Accepting @Orio's explanation, some questions remain:

    How come stopping down results in overexposure? I follow the reasoning of the camera "thinking" that it's really dark outside and thus correcting for a low light situation, but every stop down halves the incident light on the metering area. Only a nonlinear relation between environmental lighting conditions and metering results would explain this nonlinear behavour of exposure values. Anybody know of a graphical representation of lighting conditions vs. metering results on a Canon xxd?

    If the above should be correct, non-af confirm adapters would not give rise to exposure errors of the type mentioned above. Any confirmation about that from Canon owners using mf lenses with non-af confirm adapters?

    I have found out that tricking my 40d into thinking it has an ef-s screen installed instead of an ef-a screen (C-FnIV-5) reduces the overexposure factor by almost 50%. Explanation?

    I have read some postings from Canon 5d owners stating that they are not experiencing serious metering problems on ff digicams. Any confirmation on this?

    There are several topics and posts discussing the value (or non) of black cropsize masks between adapter and body, or blackening adapters, to reduce internal reflections and increase metering accuracy. Any comments?


PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Metering with mf / stop down lenses on Canon DSLR's Reply with quote

bobcominitaly wrote:
I've been wondering why I always had to correct towards underexposure when stopping down my mf lenses on my 40d with a f2.0 40 mm af confirm chip.


I have the same with my 40D with AF-confirm adapter. How do we know the adapter's settings and how can we change them ?

bobcominitaly wrote:
I have found out that tricking my 40d into thinking it has an ef-s screen installed instead of an ef-a screen (C-FnIV-5) reduces the overexposure factor by almost 50%. Explanation?


Interesting. I didn't know this trick.

bobcominitaly wrote:

There are several topics and posts discussing the value (or non) of black cropsize masks between adapter and body, or blackening adapters, to reduce internal reflections and increase metering accuracy. Any comments?


I saw those posts and searched for them but didn't find them.
Would somebody be so kind to post the dimensions of a cropsize mask for the 40D ?

I'm waiting for a focusing screen. Is it true that a non AF-confirm adapter doesn't suffer these metering problems ?

Thanks to all for any suggestions, even if I manage to live with 0 to -2 compensations.


PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, you need to focus your mind Wink on how the EOS cameras work.
EOS cameras are built to be used with EF lenses.
EF lenses always stay wide open until you press the shutter, and EOS cameras always meter the light at wide open. They have full automation, so when you stop the lens down (using camera's wheels), you do not actually close the iris. The iris stays open. Follow me so far?
OK, so what happens is that when you tell your EOS camera that your lens is stopped down at f/8, your EOS camera meters the light at wide open (it reads the wide open value from the lens' chip), and then CALCULATES the actual light for a f/8 aperture NOT based on the ACTUAL light that would pass through an f/8 aperture, but based on a mathematical table that it has built inside, which has corresponding values for all the potential apertures. And it applies that value which is theoretical, not real.
Still with me?
Ok, so when you use your MF lens with an adapter, the adapter tells the EOS camera what is the wide open value for your lens. Which might or might not be true for your lens, because your lens' wide open, and the preset aperture of the chip, might or might not coincide. But that has not much importance for what comes after.
What comes after, is that you set your MF lens to,say, f/8.
This closes the PHYSICAL iris on your lens.
But what does the camera know about that? NOTHING!
Because your adapter's chip is not telling the camera that the iris is stopped down to f/8. THE CAMERA STILL THINKS THAT YOUR LENS IS WIDE OPEN (at the preset value of your adapter's chip).
And this is the reason why, the farther you move stopping down from that preset value, the more the lens over-exposes. BECAUSE THE CAMERA THINKS THAT THE LIGHT IT GETS FROM YOUR F/8 STOPPED DOWN LENS, IS THE LIGHT THAT THE LENS RECEIVES WIDE OPEN. Thus, logically, the camera makes a compensation, based on the built-in table. And this generates the error.
Which happens also in the opposite direction: if you have a chip that says f/2.8 as preset aperture, and your lens is actually f/1.4 wide open, when you shoot wide open, the camera will apply a compensation by under-exposing.

All the above, is the reason why an intermediate aperture, such as f/3.5, is the best possible compromise for a non-programmable adapter's chip.
Such intermediate value will minimize the shift in the exposure in both directions, since there is only 2,5 stops distance from a f/1.4 wide open aperture and 2,5 stops distance from a f/8 aperture, which is usually the most stopped down aperture that people uses in order to avoid the negative effect of diffraction. Sometimes you will need to use the lens fully stopped down, but usually those occasions are, like, 5% or less of the actual lens use.

Hope this can help!!


Last edited by Orio on Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:59 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok Orio.
I followed you very clearly.

I found my adapter is set on F2 and 50mm.
So, I have to underexpose each time I close my lenses, or use slower lenses than F2.
What I didn't catch was that when using a 3.5 lens, I have to underexpose 1/3 when wide open, instead of setting the meter to 0. Now, I will be more cautious.


PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Olivier wrote:
Ok Orio.
I followed you very clearly.

I found my adapter is set on F2 and 50mm.
So, I have to underexpose each time I close my lenses, or use slower lenses than F2.
What I didn't catch was that when using a 3.5 lens, I have to underexpose 1/3 when wide open, instead of setting the meter to 0. Now, I will be more cautious.


In my practical experience, I have found that the difference between the calculated light and the real light does not correspond to the full stop difference. An example: with a f/2 adapter chip preset, photographing at f/8 would in theory require a -4 stops underexposure, but in my experience, you can get along fine with a -1.5 underexposure. I have no idea why. Evidently the reciprocity calculation is influenced by some other factors, that I ignore.
In my practical experience, I have found that underexposing of 1/3 stop every 1 or so stop closed down, gives good enough results.

There is an alternative to all this: set the camera to manual mode, then meter light using a hand meter, and set both the aperture and time values yourself.
Quite an obstacle when shooting live events, but definitely doable (and actually recommended) when shooting still subjects.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with orio that usually -1/3 compensation per full stop works fine, and usually end up underexposing by 1 stop when going from 5.6 to 8 if my chipped adapter is f2. In some cases though, i have found better results by just using unchipped adapters. so the camera will do the metering with the actual amount of light while stopped down manually in the lens...


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree too with -1/3 compensation per full stop. It works also for me.
Generally, with my f2 chipped adapter, it gives :
f2.8=0 or -1/3
f4=-1/3 or -2/3
f5.6=-2/3 or -1
f8=-1 or -4/3
f11=-4/3 or -5/3
f16=-5/3 or -2
f22=-2

I think I'll try to mask the chip with scotch tape.
And I will also have a look to full manual shooting.

Thanks.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the chip theory is a bit flimsy, I have no chipped adapters and still have to compensate sometimes with small apertures. The chip might just make the problem worse.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Oliver, you probably saw the same post as I did, and I can't find it back either- It was a russian description with pictures of an adapter with a piece of black cardboard mounted on the inside. In the cardboard was a rectangular cutout to serve as a sensorsized mask. You can figure the dimensions: assuming the adapter just can contain a mask for a 24 x 36 mm sensor, you should project a cutout of 0,63 x the dimensions of this mask in the middle of your adapter.

Don't know if it will work, though: according to @Orio's reasoning, probably not. I still think that having both both af confirm and correct metering would be ideal, but I can live with one of the two. I also find that 1/3 of a stop per stop usually is adequate compensation, but most of the time I work in full manual mode, using the camera as a light meter: focus and metering wide open, remembering exposure time, and stopping down by counting clicks. For every click (or two clicks, depending on the lens) I just double the exposure time.

Maybe I'll give this adapter a try: it's not only programmable for aperture, but also for focus correction, and it allows focus trapping on a Caqnon - would turn my 40d into a Pentax.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's it, and I found it :
http://forum.mflenses.com/someone-could-explain-accessory-for-crop-bodies-t17827,highlight,metering+cropsize+mask.html

and here is the link to the russian site, translate in english by google :
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.penta-club.ru%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Fshowtopic%3D41859%26st%3D0&sl=ru&tl=en&history_state0=

I saw the chip you're talking about.
I think i'll keep on working with my -1/3 stops and see what i'll do when i'll receive my 40D metering glass.

Cheers


PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that the use of f5.6 with an adjustable aperture value adapter (the focal length value is for reference only as an exif value and doesn't mean anything to the camera) and shooting RAW that I have more than enough leeway to adjust the RAW settings. This with a Canon 300D and XTi


PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a german forum we discuss this a long period.

If you take an adapter 2.0 indicating and a lens which is for example with a f-stop <2.8, the results are often in AV mode this way:

!! Different ISO settings on both cams !!

Porst 1.2/55mm Integralmeasure on EOS 5D (AF Chip 2.0)

1.2= 1/500
2.0= 1/250
2.8= 1/180
4.0= 1/90
5.6= 1/45
8.0= 1/15
11= 1/8

same Porst 1.2 on a Canon 400D (AF chip 2.0)

1.2 = 1/1250
2.0 = 1/1250
2.8 = 1/800
4.0 = 1/400
5.6 = 1/125
8.0 = 1/20
11 = 1/8

Nikkor-S.C 1.2/55 an der EOS 40D, AF chip (f2.0), mittenbetont:

f1.2 - 1/800
f1.4 - 1/640
f2.0 - 1/500
f2.8 - 1/250
f4.0 - 1/80
f5.6 - 1/20
f8.0 - 1/8

there are two conclusions.

First of all, the smaller Crop sensor Cams like the 400D cannot handle apertures smaller than 2.8.

The images in a test row are going to be overexposured.

The second conclusion is, there are differences in using a crop cam or a semipro cam like the 5D.

A lot of speculations are running around like the building of the aperture and so on.

Its difficult to find a correct explanation for this phenomenon.

I solve the problem in that way:

Measurement with open Aperture, each aperture stop counting and stretch the time how its correct in physical terms.

1.4 = 1/1000
2.0 = 1/500
2.8 = 1/250

etc...

just the way you did it with an old exposure meter ring.

This works fine for me an the results are consistent.

Orio already did describe the correct electrical coupling with EF Lenses.
And he wrote the reason, why the cam cant give the correct results.
There is no coupling sensor and MF Lens who indicates or set the flag is given for a specified aperture stopp from the user. So the measurement unit always think, its a new open aperture value.. and goes wrong because there is no compensation.

The programming chip of some asiatic sellers only serve the Aperture Value you want to the exifs, but doesnt play any rule for the behavior of the Measurment.

cheers
Hinnerker


PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no such problems here (5D, C/Y 50/1.7 and Vario-Sonnar 28-85) with using spot metering and then chimping the histogram afterwards, gives an accurate representation of what was captured.

Re: the screen thing. Of course it will compensate meter-wise as Canon SLRs meter through the focus-screen. The -S screens are of higher-precision and can appear 'darker' hence this adjustment in the camera, so it can factor in the screen to its exposure metering algorithms

L