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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 2:25 pm Post subject: How do you choose which focal length to use? |
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peterqd wrote:
I've realised I hardly ever use telephoto lenses. Maybe it's because I only had a 50 and a 28 for many years, which are fine for my work. To me, a tele is osed for taking shots of distant objects but maybe I should think of it the other way, as a tool that allows you to photograph from a distance or to get in close.
On my 400D a 135 seems such a restrictive angle of view, but in the Gallery I see some fantastic shots using 180 or even longer lenses for subjects I wouldn't automatically think of using longer then 50. How do you decide which length to use? Are there any "rules"? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Thankfully, I think there are no rules, Peter. Everyone is free to use their lenses as they like it.
There are of course physical properties that one must be aware of: the longer the focal lenght, the narrower the inherent depth of field measured at the same aperture in comparison with shorter focal lenghts.
This means that when you want to isolate a subject from its background, a long focal lenght will help you.
On the opposite, when you want to have as much as possible objects within focus area, a short focal lenght will help you.
These are the phisical properties but in no way they are forcing you into a corner: I have seen great portraits taken with wide angle lenses and great landscapes taken with telephoto lenses.
Apart from the difference of physical properties, any other choice depends entirely on the taste and preference of the individuals. _________________ Orio, Administrator
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
It depends which subjects you need to shot and the environment.
Just an example: street photography.
I've read in many places that for street photography a moderate wide lens is the best. It's the best if you have crowded scenes or you want to put a lot of the surroundings/ambient in focus.
But I found out that if you want to catch a single human figure in full frame a tele is a lot better, first because you don't have to stay at 80 cm from your subject (with wild animals this is a MUST unless you're Attila, the tigers' best friend), second because the DOF is much shorter helping you to make pop your subject putting everything else out of focus.
So all in all it's a stylistic choice mixed with very practical reasons. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
I prefer 100-150mm. Mostly because it makes it so much easier to isolate subjects. I also believe that composition is alot easier then with wideangle. I think its 500 times harder to compose a picture with 20mm then with 135.
That being said, I almost never take of the 55mm now . _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I mostly shoot between 24 and 85mm (real focal lenghts). First because my best lenses are in this range and second I guess I have the best "feeling" for these focal lenghts. I also love to shoot with extreme wide angles, but this is only possible for me with my (AF) Tokina 4/12-24.
Occasionally, I shoot with a 105 or a 135mm lens on my crop DSLR, but this is about it. Longer lenses I only use for very special reasons, I mean a 200mm lens on my DSLRS has the FoV of a 320mm lens on film. When do you need that? ... Right! Then I use it.
If I shoot with my rangefindes, almost exclusively street and city, I have never felt I needed more than I have (35 to 53mm). This is perfect for me and for the way I shoot with those cams.
With a film SLR I mostly shoot between 28 and 135mm - quite a coherent range to my DSLR usage. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
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Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
And again.... "Debug.... blah blah blah" -> double post _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Thanks, but I don't think I explained the question properly. If you have a subject you want to photograph and you have an open choice, do you prefer to walk closer and use a wide angle or do you prefer to stay at a distance and use a tele? What are the factors to consider? Why do portrait photographers use c. 100mm lenses for instance?
The depth of field is a good point, any more? (By "rules", I didn't mean laws and regulations, I meant like the rule of thirds). _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
Again, it depends...
With a tele you have a narrower view of background and a different perspective than with a wide.
Again, another practical example. My main studio work is shooting food. If I need to put the food in its contest over a laid table with other dishes, glasses, cutlery etc I use a wide because I can take a larger background view, if I want to isolate the food to put all the attention onto it I use a tele because I have a narrow background view and a shorter DOF. This with the relative dimension of the food being the same of course. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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naplam
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 Posts: 469 Location: Spain
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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naplam wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Thanks, but I don't think I explained the question properly. If you have a subject you want to photograph and you have an open choice, do you prefer to walk closer and use a wide angle or do you prefer to stay at a distance and use a tele? What are the factors to consider? Why do portrait photographers use c. 100mm lenses for instance?
The depth of field is a good point, any more? (By "rules", I didn't mean laws and regulations, I meant like the rule of thirds). |
With a tele DOF is more shallow and the perspective is more flat, whereas with wide angle there's more dof and the subject is "rounder". 135mm on full-frame is the focal length of choice for headshots, appropriate dof and perspective to fill the frame with a head. Also, teles are useful to isolate details from the surroundings. In a crowded place you probably can't just move anywhere you like (or move before the photo is gone), so a tele can be helpful to keep everything but your subject properly focused and filling a good part of the picture. |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
Putting aside physical limits such as getting close to shy animals or being restricted by the space available, the choice of FL very much depends on the image you want or put another way what you are trying to convey.
If we take photographing people as an example different FL can give very different impressions. A long FL will isolate the subject and even though the FOV may only be their head and shoulders the photo often conveys that impression of distance.
A wide angle lens brings you close to your subject and a well taken shot will also give the viewer the idea they are close.
You may have heard the favoured lenses of the Press Photographer are wide angle.
Moving closer requires more practice and care to handle the perspective but is nearly always worth it. It is however a technique many don’t like as they are frightened of encroaching on another’s ‘Personal space’, something you have to get over if you wish to do photography (Or stick to Landscapes).
I have only mentioned photographing people as most subjects require different treatments, that’s the fun of photography. But as a rule longer focal lengths will isolate and still retain a visual impression of distance. Short wide FL will (Or can) add impact and bring the viewer right into the image you have made.
Try to use lenses for what they contribute to your image rather than a means of getting different FOV.
PS the DOF of any FL is the same for the same relative subject size. A 100mm lens or a 30mm lens, with a head filling the frame have the same DOF. It is the distance between subject and camera that change. _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
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http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
True ... and the way a lens "draws" a subject is important to. Since portaits need to be realistic, it is no good idea to use an extreme wide angle. Any lens between 35 and 135mm offers a natural perspective and thus a face looks like it does in reality.
With the short teles 85, 105 or 135mm you can get both, narrow DoF and a correct perspective. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:06 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Well, I went swimming yesterday and took along the 400D with 85 and 135 lenses to get used to them on the crop camera. After the film cameras this viewfinder looks smaller than ever! I won't show any pictures I took, this is going to need some practice. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Puplet
Joined: 09 Aug 2007 Posts: 410
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Puplet wrote:
I think it depends how you see things without a camera. I regularly shoot 90-210mm (35mm equiv.) but I have a friend who rarely goes beyond 50mm. He sees big shapes in the world, I see tiny details. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Puplet wrote: |
I think it depends how you see things without a camera. I regularly shoot 90-210mm (35mm equiv.) but I have a friend who rarely goes beyond 50mm. He sees big shapes in the world, I see tiny details. |
That's very interesting, I think I'm probably more like your friend. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
To shoot everything with 50mm that is normal human eye view. In photography one of the greatest thing to show other perspective than human eye can discover easily. 50mm or less lenses more less tourists fotos for me I rare use them. I know a few exception like Simon's art (Speedkenedy3000). I highly recommend Peter to discover tiny details. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
It would be very clever to see things in many different perspectives and make your images in the best way you think suits your subject or conveys the impression you are trying to make. Or at least try.
I agree 100% that to stand at eye level or any other 'Usual' possition with a 50mm or near ‘Normal’ lens for ALL your shots isn’t right. In fact it shows a complete lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination. It is IMO no matter how good the quality of the image or the equipment that produced it just a snap shot. Good for record shots of places you visited or events you have seen but of no photographic interest or skill.
I wonder how many have had to suffer looking through loads of images taking from the same viewpoint, with the same lens of almost the same subject. It’s better than sleeping tablets! _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Rob Leslie wrote: |
I agree 100% that to stand at eye level or any other 'Usual' possition with a 50mm or near ‘Normal’ lens for ALL your shots isn’t right. In fact it shows a complete lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination. |
Thank God, nobody is proclaiming that here!
It seems that all of us know a great deal about photography and show some "artistic inclination". _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de
Last edited by LucisPictor on Sun Jul 06, 2008 3:23 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Rob Leslie wrote: |
I agree 100% that to stand at eye level or any other 'Usual' possition with a 50mm or near ‘Normal’ lens for ALL your shots isn’t right. In fact it shows a complete lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination. |
Thank God, nobody is proclaiming that here!
It seems that all of us know a great deal about photography and show some "artistic inclination". |
I must (Quickly) agree with that. _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Rob Leslie wrote: |
I agree 100% that to stand at eye level or any other 'Usual' possition with a 50mm or near ‘Normal’ lens for ALL your shots isn’t right. In fact it shows a complete lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination. It is IMO no matter how good the quality of the image or the equipment that produced it just a snap shot. Good for record shots of places you visited or events you have seen but of no photographic interest or skill. |
Well, I think maybe sometimes I do take too many pictures using a 50mm lens (or 35 on the 400D), and probably a lot of my photographs are indeed snapshots, although they're not all from eye level.
But I wouldn't say I have "a lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination". From when I started 35mm photography in 1967 right up till 1993, I had only a 50mm and later a 28mm lens. In those days money was very tight for us and there were far more important things than lenses. In 1993 I was able to afford a cheap s/h 28-80 zoom to fit my ME Super, but even then I didn't use it very much as the exposures were often faulty. So I got into the habit of using foot zoom whenever possible.
In fact I never used anything longer than 80mm until late 2006 when I discovered how cheap lenses were on Ebay, and I bought my first 135 and then a 200 lens. And even now I'm finding I hardly ever use them. I find it difficult to know when to fish them out, and when I do it feels like I'm using a telescope. Hence the reason I started this thread and why I need some constructive help. Thanks. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
Hmmm... I don't think there's a focal length that is artistic and another one that is snapshotting. I remember plenty of great shots from the best names of photography taken with normal lenses.
It depends a lot on what's your vision, alas what result you want to achieve. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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naplam
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 Posts: 469 Location: Spain
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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naplam wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
I'm finding I hardly ever use them. I find it difficult to know when to fish them out, and when I do it feels like I'm using a telescope. Hence the reason I started this thread and why I need some constructive help. Thanks. |
This is my experience with af zooms (assuming a situation where you can use both teles and normal lenses): when I mount my 100-300 zoom I have usually taken shorter fl photos already and I decide to give up any photos i can't take with the tele for a while, so I can concentrate on taking photos with the tele. With fixed focals I guess it's much more practical to have a couple of camera bodies as well to avoid wasting much time switching lenses (or to stop having to think when to choose). |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
I think all lenses can be used to take 'artistic' photographs and I also believe all lenses can be used to take 'snapshots'. It all comes down to the individual photographer.
Like Peter, if you only have 1 lens, you learn how to use it in different situations. Some lenses may seem to be more usable in certain situations. Many consider 85mm to be an ideal portrait lens. Excellent portraits have been taken with 35mm lenses. What changes is the 'intimacy' you have with your subject, the 85mm allows a greater distance from the subject and therefore you may get a more natural pose (not worried about the camera right up in your face).
If you are going for general photos of a certain type (landscape, portrait, wildlife) take a lens that is suited for that situation. If you are walking around just looking for something interesting, experiment with different focal lengths. You may discover a hidden artistic talent.
I guess with all that rambling, all I am trying to say is shoot what you are comfortable with, but don't be afraid to step outside the box and try something different. _________________ Michael Hill |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Rob Leslie wrote: |
I agree 100% that to stand at eye level or any other 'Usual' possition with a 50mm or near ‘Normal’ lens for ALL your shots isn’t right. In fact it shows a complete lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination. It is IMO no matter how good the quality of the image or the equipment that produced it just a snap shot. Good for record shots of places you visited or events you have seen but of no photographic interest or skill. |
Well, I think maybe sometimes I do take too many pictures using a 50mm lens (or 35 on the 400D), and probably a lot of my photographs are indeed snapshots, although they're not all from eye level.
But I wouldn't say I have "a lack of understanding of good photography and no artistic inclination". From when I started 35mm photography in 1967 right up till 1993, I had only a 50mm and later a 28mm lens. In those days money was very tight for us and there were far more important things than lenses. In 1993 I was able to afford a cheap s/h 28-80 zoom to fit my ME Super, but even then I didn't use it very much as the exposures were often faulty. So I got into the habit of using foot zoom whenever possible.
In fact I never used anything longer than 80mm until late 2006 when I discovered how cheap lenses were on Ebay, and I bought my first 135 and then a 200 lens. And even now I'm finding I hardly ever use them. I find it difficult to know when to fish them out, and when I do it feels like I'm using a telescope. Hence the reason I started this thread and why I need some constructive help. Thanks. |
Same story here. I used 28mm and 50mm on 35mm film for many years (28 is 17/18mm on crop) I bought a 105mm in 1976 but and a 70-210 zoom but I never liked telephoto shots and I'm still not keen on them for general run of the mill things. I started 35mm SLR about 1964 my first camera was a Practica FX3 with the f2.8 50mm Tessar. my first 'Real' camera was a Penatx SL about 1966 that had the f1.8 55m lens which I still use.
It was 1979 before I got a 24mm (Nikon) and I loved that but would still go for the 28mm most times. I would do most subjects (inc sport) with 28mm. The only reason I ever bought a telephoto lens was when I took an interest in wildlife. I had plenty of access to good telephoto lenses put never used them if I could help it.
Today I find I am going wider again. I love the Zenitar 16mm on crop DSLR and now after testing four copies I have finally got a good Sigma 10-20mm, which I expect to use a lot. 10-15mm is hard work but worth it.
I have never used a zoom to save moving.
PS. I thought ALL written in capitals clearly qualified my statement _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
... and probably a lot of my photographs are indeed snapshots... |
Peter, about 99% of my shots are snapshots. So what?
"Snapshot" does not mean "bad", does it? In my understanding it just means that a photo was not planned, arranged and set, it rather was a spontaneous reaction to what you have seen. That is what I almost always do.
Also my camera-and-coffee shots (which are the most "arranged" shots I do) are some kind of snapshots. I normally put the camera next to a cup in a way I like it and shoot, takes about 10 sec. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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j.lukow
Joined: 03 Oct 2007 Posts: 856 Location: Lindsay Ontario, Canada
Expire: 2021-11-25
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:37 am Post subject: |
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j.lukow wrote:
I was like you Peter in that when I learned photography in the 80's and got my camera all I could afford was a teleconverter to add to the 50mm F2.0 the XGM came with. It didn't detract from the photography. At the end of the nineties and I replaced my destroyed XGM with an SRT200 I got a 45mm lens and later Lana bought me a 135mm store brand prime.
Last fall before I came here I discovered eBay and lenses.
I find the most common lenses I use are my 2 Tamron zooms - I guess I like the flexibility they afford me as well as the ability to zero in on the shot - cropping in the field.
The best way to figure out your rules is to practice and explore.
Jim _________________ EMPLOYMENT: That which funded photography and my new woodworking business.j.lukow
Jim's Kit:
Minolta Kit: Minolta X570 & Autowinder G, Minolta SRT200
LENSES:Minolta - 45mm & 50mm F1:2, PF 58mm F1:1.4, Tamron 28mm f1:2.5, Tamron SP 35-80mm f1:2.8/3.8 & CF TeleMacro zoom 80-210 f1:3.8, Vivitar f3.0~4.5 35-200mm macro focusing zoom, f 2.8 28mm CF Wide angle, 2x macro focus teleconverter,Sigma F4 25-250, f 2.8~4 35-70mm zoom master,Tokina SD f4-5.6 70-210 zoom, f4.5 80-200 "Ultra" Zoom,AutoImage 135mm F1:2.8, Spiratone 400mm f1:6.3, Magicon f3.5-4.8 35-70mm macro zoom,Quantary f8-500 Mirror/macro lens, Accura MD mount Macro bellows
M42 Kit:Praktica PLC2,Yashica TL Electro X
LENSES:Meyer Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f1:1.8 , Auto Yashinon DX 1:1.7 50mm,Steinheil Munchen Culminar 135mm f4.5, Adaptall-2 M42 adapter
Zeiss . . . Zeiss Contaflex 126 system, Zeiss Contaflex Super
Medium Format: Pentacon sixTL
Hasselblad 500c/m - CZ 2.8-80mm planar, CZ 4-150mm sonnarCF |
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