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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:04 pm Post subject: Anyone skilled in rheology? |
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twinquartz wrote:
Hi all,
I have taken my first quivering steps in the
art or re-lubing a lens. I managed to obtain
a set of 5 damping grease samples, ranging from
"very heavy" (5) to "very light" (1).
I began experimenting with an Industar 50-2.
The manufacturer recommended "very heavy" (5)
for focusing mechanisms. I started with (4).
Far too stiff. Cleaned the helix and re-lubed using (2).
Still too stiff.
A local technician recommended Vaseline.
Much too light /even if it had a very positive effect
on focusing/!
Another technician told me that he made his own compound
consisting of ball-bearing grease + graphite
(presumably to break down the long molecule chains
of the ball-bearing grease).
Another old camera shop suggested Ocular grease,
which in present day terms can be translated into
either "Dow Corning High vacuum grease" or
"111 Molykote compound".
To put it simple: I am sort of lost...
All suggestions and advice are welcome. Luckily, the
Industar 50-2 is easy to handle. |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Bicycle silicone grease.
Works for me, but I am not very sensitive to these things. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11054 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 2:15 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Too much grease also makes difficult to turn. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Too much grease also makes difficult to turn. |
Sigh. Too true. I guess there is no other way than using the
trial-and-error method. In Swedish we have a word lagom,
which can be translated into not too much, not too less.
The problem is to know when... |
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SXR_Mark
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 506 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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SXR_Mark wrote:
When I started fixing lenses I wanted to use a synthetic grease with low or zero volatile compound content because I didn't want any "nasty chemicals" drifting onto the sensor. I tried various vacuum greases but found they were all far too sticky. I then read someone recommend a synthetic PTFE based bicycle grease and bought some of that. Generally, I found that too thick as well (though useful in some circumstances). So, in the end, I gave up and now I just Castrol LM lithium based grease. It's a high temperature grease so shouldn't go runny if the lens gets hot. It is also about the right viscosity for my tastes. And its cheap and widely available.
Mark _________________ Olympus OM-D E-M1 for everything |
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elliott
Joined: 16 May 2011 Posts: 170
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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elliott wrote:
I also use lithium grease from the auto parts store. First one I did was a Suntar 135mm f2.8, something I wouldn't be upset if I ruined. Then I did a Mamiya Sekor 60mm f2.8 Macro, then a Jupiter-9.
If it doesn't go all runny when I push my old drum brakes to the point of fading, there is no way it is going anywhere in these lenses. |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Did you clean the helicoids carefully with solvents (naphta, petrol ether, benzine etc.) before regreasing? That's important!
I'm using a ball bearing lubricant ("Hanseline Kugellager Abschmierfett") which works imho pretty good (usable viscosity, not volatile, long durability, not temperature sensitive, very cheap). According to description from the producer it's made to work well from -30°C to +60°C, which is perfect for lenses. I have it from a local store but you could buy it also from Ebay etc.
But be careful, not every ball bearing lubricant will have the same viscosity (I guess there are much more viscous ones)
Before I found that lubricant I also tried "white vaseline" (from a hardware store for technical purposes) several times which is a bit more temperature sensitive (slightly stiff when it's cold, a little soft when it's warm), but overall it worked ok anyway. Viscosity from different vaseline-brands can differ from ultra-slippery to nearly wax-like. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:04 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
Interesting. I am grateful for all advice! Thank you.
One of the problems with an international forum is
that what is common in one country, is totally
unknown in another.
Castrol in Sweden has never heard of "Castrol LM".
Neither is "Hanseline Kugellager Abschmierfett" known
north of Kiel.
Sigh. I'll keep on experimenting... |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
ForenSeil wrote: |
Did you clean the helicoids carefully with solvents (naphta, petrol ether, benzine etc.) before regreasing? That's important! |
Yes. I did. |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
http://viewitem.eim.ebay.se/KUGELLAGERFETT--50-ml--von-Hanseline-Abschmierfett/280973265789/item
Maybe that's interesting for you
Hope the viscosity is working well for your lenses. It has consitency class 2, nearly 3. I only made good experience with it so far. But every Helicoid is different. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:51 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
Affengeil! Danke vielmals!
I just bought one. Tube = 2.80. Postage to Sweden = 3.75.
But it is well worth it if you consider it good for
the intended use. Thank you.
With "consistency class 2", do you mean NLGI 2? |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
twinquartz wrote: |
Affengeil! Danke vielmals!
I just bought one. Tube = 2.80. Postage to Sweden = 3.75.
But it is well worth it if you consider it good for
the intended use. Thank you.
With "consistency class 2", do you mean NLGI 2? |
No problem And yes exactly, I mean NLGI! In German it's generally called "Konsistenzklasse" and it was a straight tanslation
Please report if viscosity is working for you lenses!
If it's not stiff enough, you might try to mix it with graphite, a little molten artificial wax from cheap white candles, or similar.
Bye the way for anyone else NLGI/consistency class "stiffness" can be easily explained with eatables:
000 cooking oil
00 apple sauce
0 brown mustard
1 tomato paste
2 peanut butter
3 white vegetable shortening
4 frozen yogurt
5 pate
6 cheddar cheese
I wonder if already anyone tried to grease his lens with peanut butter _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
ForenSeil wrote: |
I wonder if already anyone tried to grease his lens with peanut butter |
or cheddar cheese
Interesting to see candlewax isn't on this list |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16663 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 12:18 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Why would it be on the list of "eatables"?
Dou you eat candlewax on a regular basis _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 12:13 am Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Why would it be on the list of "eatables"?
Dou you eat candlewax on a regular basis |
Not regular, about once a year. My birthday cake is so full of them I always miss one or two
I was so engrossed in the other answers I forgot it was eatables. oops!
I've used candlewax as an aperture ring lubricant on modified lenses where the ring comes up against the mount. I works quite well and the first one I did about a year ago is still turning smoothly. |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6557 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 1:09 am Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Why would it be on the list of "eatables"?
Dou you eat candlewax on a regular basis |
Tallow candles are edible, but only if you're stuck at the North Pole, I would think.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tallow#Candles
I occasionally use a wax candle for rubbing along desk drawer runners or curtain rails, to leave a film of dry lubricant on them. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop Norway
http://www.fomafoto.com/
Webshop Czech
https://fomaobchod.cz/inshop/scripts/shop.aspx?action=DoChangeLanguage&LangID=4 |
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AlunH
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 23 Location: London
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Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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AlunH wrote:
I too have got the pack of 5 Nyogel damping greases and all are far too think for manual foucus Helicoids.
I've tried the P.T.F.E bicycle grease and the white lithium suggested here on a CZJ Triotar and Flektogon. Both have quite long helicoids (large surface areas) and worked better with the lithium grease. But I recently relubed the Flektogon with some Aeroshell 7 grease (very stable) I acquired from a helicopter engineer. I also got some Aeroshell 21 from him too and will try that on the Triotar as it is still way too stiff (with the lithium grease) for my liking.
The result of using Aeroshell 7 on the flektogon was very good. MUCH better than any other grease i have tried. Aeroshell 7 uses clay as a thickener. I am concerened whether this may wear the aluminium. I do not know where they come on the hardness scale? The feel of the Flektogon is now much lighter but slightly rough. Not silky /oily smooth like my Pancolar or takumar lenses.
I do have some Makita grease for use on the chuck of a 24v SDS hammer drill. It is much less viscous than the ptfe or lithium grease and closely resembles the original grease i've found in lenses in both feel and colour! The trouble is, i have not yet been able to find any of specifications for it so I'm unsure of it's temperature stability. If i do, I will post results. _________________
DSLR: - Canon EOS500D/ 1DS /6D/Canon
SLR: - Canon FTb QL /Pentax Spotmatic ...
Lenses (AF): - EF 20-35mm f2.8L, EF 28-135mm IS USM, EF 50mm f1.8, EF 70-200 f2.8L USM, EF 2x Extender Mk1...
Lenses (MF): - Canon FL 55 /1.2, Carl Zeiss Jenna MC 135mm 3.5, Jupiter 9 85mm f2, Helios 44-2 58mm f2, Helios 44-m 58mm f2, Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 135mm f4, CZJ 35mm f2.4 Flektogon (x2), CZJ Pancolar 1.8/80mm, MTO 1000mm f10, MTO 500mm f8, Pentax SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4, RMC Tokina 17mm f3.5, Tamron SP17 /3.5, Pentacon 135mm f2.8
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